All Projects Renovations Installations

Project Overview

This engineered wooden flooring buffing and re-oiling project was carried out at a residential property in Whitechapel, East London. The project covered the main living area floor and also extended to the staircase, which had developed similar surface wear. The engineered floor had been down for several years and was looking tired: the oil finish had broken down in the main traffic areas, large cracks had opened up in some of the board joints, and the colour had faded unevenly. Rather than a full sand, which would have removed more of the engineered veneer than was necessary, a surface buff and re-oil approach was used to refresh the finish while preserving the maximum wood thickness for future treatments. Buffing and re-oiling an engineered floor typically falls in the lower end of the sanding price range, around £25 to £35 per square metre.

The Challenge

The main complications on this job were the gap filling and the staircase. The cracks in the floor were not the small hairline gaps that come from seasonal wood movement. Several were wide enough to have collected years of dirt and debris, and one section near the window had boards that had moved enough to create a visible step between the edges. The gap filling needed to be done thoroughly, working the filler into the full depth of the crack rather than just skimming the surface, otherwise the filler would shrink back and the gaps would reappear quickly. The staircase presented its own challenge in that each tread had to be assessed individually, as the buffing machine cannot be used on the staircase, and all the work there was done by hand.

Our Approach

1. Gap assessment and filling: We cleaned all the cracks thoroughly to remove trapped dirt and debris before any filling work began. A flexible two-part resin filler tinted to match the floor colour was packed into each gap under pressure and levelled flush with the surrounding surface. The filler was left to cure fully overnight.
2. Surface buffing: Using a buffing machine with a medium-grit abrasive pad, we worked across the floor systematically to strip the old oil finish and lightly abrade the surface without removing significant wood depth. This technique is ideal for engineered floors with a thinner veneer.
3. Fine buffing: A finer pad pass completed the preparation, leaving the surface clean, smooth, and receptive to the new oil.
4. Staircase hand sanding: Each staircase tread was hand-sanded with a progression of grits, working with the grain. The nosings were smoothed carefully to maintain their profile. The risers were cleaned and any old paint or finish was removed where it had started to peel.
5. First oil coat: A hardwax oil was applied to the floor and staircase in a single session to ensure colour consistency across both areas. The oil was worked into the grain generously and any excess removed before it dried.
6. Second oil coat: After a 24-hour cure, a second thinner coat was applied and buffed to an even finish. This second coat builds the level of protection and gives a consistent sheen across the whole area.

The Result

The floor looked noticeably brighter and more consistent after treatment. The gaps were filled and no longer visible, the patchy worn areas were gone, and the re-oiled surface had a fresh, even colour that matched well across the floor and staircase. The client noted that the staircase in particular had gone from looking very tired to being a genuinely attractive feature of the entrance to the flat. The oil finish on both surfaces is now fully refreshed and will provide good protection for the next three to five years before any further maintenance is needed.

Frequently Asked Questions

When should you buff and re-oil rather than do a full sand?

Buffing and re-oiling is the right choice when the floor's surface finish has worn but the wood itself is still in good structural condition, without deep scratches, heavy staining, or significant cupping. It is also the preferred approach for engineered floors with thinner veneers where preserving wood thickness for future treatments is important.

How do you fill large gaps in an engineered floor?

Large gaps need cleaning out thoroughly before filling, as a surface-only fill will shrink back once the debris below it compresses. A flexible resin filler is pressed into the full depth of the crack, allowed to cure, and then sanded flush. In cases where the boards have moved significantly, it may be necessary to close the gap mechanically first by re-securing the boards before filling.

Can the staircase and floor be finished at the same time to ensure a colour match?

Yes, and this is the recommended approach. Applying the same oil product in the same session to both surfaces is the best way to ensure a consistent colour and sheen level. Finishing them at different times or with different batches of product can result in a slight but visible difference in tone between the floor and the stairs.

Project Overview

This project involved sanding, buffing and lacquering an engineered wood floor across several rooms of a residential property in Richmond. The owners wanted a full surface refresh ahead of spring, bringing back the original warmth of the wood without replacement. The floor had lost its sheen through years of normal use and heavy foot traffic. Our team handled the furniture removal, the full sanding sequence, buffing, and two coats of lacquer, then reinstated the furniture on completion.

The Challenge

Engineered wood requires careful attention during sanding. Sand too aggressively and you risk cutting through the wear layer, which on engineered boards is typically between 3mm and 6mm thick. The floor in this Richmond home had a few stubborn scratches and a patchy area near the window where the old lacquer had worn away completely, leaving bare wood that had started to dry out and discolour. Matching the finish across the whole floor required precise preparation and consistent buffing before any lacquer was applied.

Our Approach

We followed a structured sequence to protect the wear layer and deliver an even finish.

• Furniture removal: We cleared the rooms before starting so there was no risk of damage and no areas we had to work around.
• Initial sanding: We used a drum sander with a medium-grit paper to strip the old lacquer and level any surface irregularities, working along the grain throughout.
• Edge sanding: A dedicated edge sander addressed the perimeter of each room and any corners the drum machine could not reach.
• Buffing: Once the surface was fully stripped, we buffed with a fine-grit disc to open up the grain evenly and prepare a smooth base for the lacquer.
• Lacquering: Two coats of water-based lacquer were applied, with a light key-sand between coats. This builds a hard-wearing, clear finish that reflects light well and protects the wood for years of daily use.
• Reinstatement: Furniture was moved back in and the rooms were left clean and ready to use.

The Result

The finished floor looked like a new installation. The discoloured patch near the window had been fully corrected and the lacquer brought up a consistent, glossy surface across the whole area. The clients were pleased with both the quality of the work and the tidiness of our team throughout. For a floor in this condition, sanding and relacquering is a far better option than replacement -- the cost typically runs between £25 and £45 per square metre depending on floor condition and the number of coats required, which is a fraction of what new engineered boards would cost.

Frequently Asked Questions

How many times can an engineered wood floor be sanded?
It depends on the thickness of the wear layer. Most engineered boards with a 3mm layer can be lightly sanded once or twice. Boards with a 6mm wear layer can usually take three or four full sanding cycles over their lifetime.

How long does the lacquer take to dry before we can walk on the floor?
Water-based lacquer is touch-dry within a couple of hours. We recommend light foot traffic after four hours and returning furniture after 24 hours. Full cure takes around seven days, during which it is best to avoid placing rugs over the surface.

Do you carry out work in Richmond regularly?
Yes. Richmond is one of our regular working areas. We cover the whole of south-west London and can usually schedule a survey within a few days of your enquiry.

Project Overview

This was one of our more comprehensive fitting jobs in Hendon, covering the full removal of old floorboards, the installation of new hardwood flooring, new skirting boards and beading throughout. The property had worn, tired boards that had become uneven in places, and the skirting had seen better days. The clients wanted a complete upgrade rather than a repair, and chose a quality solid hardwood board to complement the character of the house.

The Challenge

The main difficulty with this project was the state of the existing subfloor once the old boards were lifted. Several areas required levelling before the new hardwood could go down, and some of the fixing points for the skirting needed making good. Getting the subfloor right before fitting is essential -- if the base is not level, even the best hardwood boards will creak and flex over time. We also had to carefully measure and cut the skirting and beading around several doorframes and chimney breast alcoves, which required precise mitring on site.

Our Approach

• Strip out: Old floorboards were carefully removed and the subfloor was cleaned back and inspected.
• Subfloor preparation: Any high spots were planed down and low areas filled with a self-levelling compound, which was allowed to cure fully before fitting began.
• Hardwood installation: New hardwood boards were laid and secret-nailed along the length of each room, working from a straight baseline. Boards were staggered for strength and visual consistency.
• Skirting and beading: New skirting boards were fitted to all walls, cut and mitred at corners. Beading was run along the floor-to-skirting junction to give a clean finish and allow for natural board movement.
• Final finishing: The floor was given a light sand and a coat of protective oil to bring out the grain and protect the surface from day one.

The Result

The transformation was striking. What had been a tired and uneven floor became a well-fitted, fresh hardwood installation with clean skirting lines throughout. The clients said the rooms felt completely different -- brighter and much more in keeping with the age of the property. Hardwood floor fitting in London typically costs between £35 and £60 per square metre for supply and fit, depending on board species and room complexity. This project came in well within that range and delivered a finish the clients were very happy with.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do you remove the old flooring as part of the fitting service?
Yes. Strip-out of the existing floor is included in most of our fitting quotes. We also deal with responsible disposal of the old materials.

Does hardwood flooring work with underfloor heating?
Many hardwood species are compatible with underfloor heating systems, provided the boards are properly acclimatised and the floor temperature does not exceed the recommended maximum. We can advise on suitable species at the survey stage.

Do you fit skirting boards as a standalone service?
Yes, we can fit and finish skirting boards independently of a flooring project. Get in touch and we will arrange a visit to measure up and provide a quote.

Project Overview

Our Stockwell clients requested a full restoration package for their engineered wood floor, covering sanding, buffing, lacquering and gap filling. They also asked us to move furniture before we started and return it once we had finished. The floor had seen heavy use over a number of years and had several visible gaps between boards, areas of worn lacquer, and a general dullness that no amount of cleaning could fix. The aim was to bring it back to a condition close to new without replacing the boards.

The Challenge

Combining gap filling with sanding and lacquering requires careful sequencing. Fill too early and the sanding process can pull filler out. Fill after sanding but before lacquering is the correct approach, but the filler must be fully dry before the lacquer goes on or the finish will bubble. Getting the colour match right on the gap filler is also important -- the wrong colour draws the eye and looks worse than no filler at all. The gaps on this floor were mostly in the middle of the room where movement had been greatest, and they varied in width, which required blending filler to get a close colour match to the board.

Our Approach

• Furniture clearance: We moved all furniture to one side of each room in stages to allow continuous working.
• Initial sanding: Drum sanding along the grain removed the old lacquer and flattened the surface, including slight ridges at a few board edges.
• Edge and detail work: Edge sanders and hand tools addressed the perimeter and any tight spots.
• Gap filling: We prepared a sawdust-and-resin filler matched to the board colour and worked it into the gaps, then allowed it to cure before continuing.
• Buffing: A fine-grit buff over the entire surface brought the wood to an even finish ready for lacquering.
• Lacquering: Two coats of water-based lacquer were applied with a light sand between coats to ensure good adhesion and a hard-wearing surface.
• Furniture return: Everything was put back in position and the rooms were handed back clean.

The Result

The floor came up exceptionally well. The gaps had disappeared and the lacquer gave the whole surface a clean, consistent sheen. The clients commented that the floor looked better than it had when they first moved in. For sanding, gap filling and relacquering a floor in this condition, costs generally sit between £25 and £45 per square metre, making it a very cost-effective alternative to replacement.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can gaps in engineered wood flooring be prevented?
Some seasonal movement and minor gapping is normal in wood floors as boards expand and contract with humidity changes. Keeping indoor humidity between 45% and 65% year-round reduces movement significantly. Wide or persistent gaps usually indicate a fitting or subfloor issue and are worth addressing properly.

What type of lacquer do you use?
We primarily use water-based lacquers, which have lower odour than solvent-based products, dry faster between coats and produce a hard-wearing finish. For clients who prefer an oil finish, we can offer Danish oil or hardwax oil alternatives.

Do you cover Stockwell and the surrounding area?
Yes. We work across south London including Stockwell, Brixton, Clapham and the wider SW postcode area. Contact us to arrange a free survey.

Project Overview

This project in Wandsworth involved sanding, buffing, lacquering and gap filling a solid hardwood floor across multiple areas of a property. The building was a converted space with original hardwood laid many years ago, and the floor had accumulated a lot of surface damage over that time. It had not been professionally sanded in some years, and visible gaps had opened up between boards. Our team was brought in to carry out a full restoration, returning the floor to a strong, flat and well-finished surface.

The Challenge

The floor presented a few complications. There were areas of deeper scratching and some boards had cupped slightly due to past moisture exposure. Cupped boards need to be sanded down carefully so the high edges are brought level without over-sanding the centre of each board. The gaps were also quite pronounced in some sections, which required a substantial amount of gap filling and careful colour matching. Getting all of this right before lacquering was essential to a good end result.

Our Approach

• Inspection and prep: We walked the floor before starting, checking for raised nails, loose boards and any boards that had cupped or warped. Raised nails were punched down to prevent sander damage.
• Coarse sanding pass: A 40-grit pass with the drum sander levelled the cupped areas and removed the bulk of the old finish and surface damage.
• Medium and fine passes: Progressive grits brought the surface down to a consistent, smooth finish ready for gap filling.
• Gap filling: Filler was mixed to match the board colour and pressed into all significant gaps. Once cured, a final fine-grit pass over the filled areas created a flush surface.
• Buffing: A full buff of the floor prepared the grain for lacquer application.
• Lacquering: Two coats of protective lacquer were applied and allowed to cure between applications.

The Result

The finished floor was flat, clean and consistent throughout. The cupped boards were no longer visible and the gaps had been closed to a neat, matching finish. The lacquer brought out the natural grain of the hardwood and left the surface well protected for years ahead. Professional sanding and gap filling in London typically costs between £25 and £45 per square metre depending on floor condition, making this an excellent investment compared with full floor replacement.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can cupped floorboards be fixed without replacement?
In most cases, yes. If the cupping has been caused by a moisture event that has since resolved, the boards will often flatten naturally over time and sanding can correct any residual unevenness. If the moisture source is ongoing, that needs to be addressed first or the boards will cup again.

How long does a sanding job of this type take?
For a medium-sized residential floor, sanding, gap filling and lacquering typically takes two to three days. The floor needs to be clear of furniture and the property should be well ventilated throughout.

Do you work in commercial properties as well as residential?
Yes, we work in both. Commercial projects such as offices, shops and community halls are a regular part of our workload. We can arrange out-of-hours work where needed.

Project Overview

This Golders Green project centred on a traditional herringbone parquet floor in need of full restoration. The parquet had been laid years earlier and had become heavily scratched, stained in places and stripped of its protective finish in high-traffic areas. The clients wanted the floor stained to a richer tone than the original and refinished to a hard gloss. Our team approached this as a precision job from start to finish, given the complexity of the herringbone pattern and the need to sand across multiple angles without leaving visible sanding marks.

The Challenge

Parquet floors present a specific challenge for sanding because the blocks run in multiple directions. Sanding along the grain of one set of blocks puts you across the grain of the adjacent set. This means working at a diagonal to the pattern is often necessary, followed by careful fine-grit passes and buffing to remove any cross-grain marks. Any sanding marks left on a parquet floor become very visible once stain is applied, so the preparation has to be thorough. The staining also required even application across the whole floor to avoid blotching, particularly where some blocks were more porous than others.

Our Approach

• Assessment: We checked every block for stability before sanding began. Any loose blocks were re-adhered and allowed to bond fully before the machine sanding started.
• Diagonal sanding: The first machine pass ran diagonally across the herringbone pattern to cut through the old finish and surface damage without tearing along one grain direction only.
• Along-pattern passes: Progressive finer grits were then used in the direction of the pattern to remove any diagonal marks from the first pass.
• Hand sanding: Border blocks and corners were sanded by hand to ensure consistency with the main field.
• Staining: A dark wood stain was applied evenly and worked into the grain with a cloth before being allowed to penetrate fully. A second coat was applied to areas that required greater depth of colour.
• Lacquering: Three coats of lacquer were applied to build a hard, high-gloss finish appropriate for a parquet of this quality.

The Result

The restored parquet looked exceptional. The rich stain brought out the geometry of the herringbone pattern and the three-coat lacquer produced a deep, reflective finish. The clients were delighted with how dramatically the room had changed without any structural work at all. Parquet sanding and refinishing in London typically runs between £70 and £100 per square metre given the additional labour involved in working with the pattern. It is, however, significantly cheaper than relaying a new parquet floor and produces outstanding results on a well-laid original.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can you change the colour of a parquet floor with staining?
Yes. Staining allows you to go darker than the natural wood tone. Going lighter requires bleaching, which is a more involved process. We can provide stain samples on a small test area before committing to the full floor.

How many coats of lacquer does a parquet floor need?
For a high-traffic residential area, we recommend at least three coats. The first seals the wood and stain, the second builds the protective layer, and the third gives the final surface hardness and sheen.

Is my parquet floor worth restoring if some blocks are loose?
Usually yes, provided the majority of the floor is sound. Loose blocks can be re-glued as part of the preparation stage. We only recommend replacement where a significant proportion of blocks are damaged beyond saving.

Project Overview

This Putney project covered the full process of hardwood floor installation followed by sanding and staining to the client's chosen finish. The clients had decided on unfinished hardwood boards rather than pre-finished, which gave them the freedom to choose an exact stain colour and finish level on site after fitting. We handled the complete job from subfloor preparation through to final lacquering, working across several interconnected rooms in the property.

The Challenge

Installing unfinished hardwood and finishing it on site requires two separate site visits with a dry period in between to allow the boards to acclimatise fully after fitting before any sanding begins. If you sand too soon after fitting, the boards may still be adjusting to the room's humidity and temperature, which can lead to an uneven surface after the finish goes on. The staining added another consideration -- the clients wanted a mid-tone warm colour that still showed the grain clearly rather than masking it with a very dark pigment. Getting this balance right took some testing on offcuts before committing to the full floor.

Our Approach

• Acclimatisation: Boards were delivered and stacked in the property several days before fitting, allowing the wood to adjust to the internal conditions.
• Subfloor check: The existing subfloor was checked for level and any high points addressed before boards went down.
• Installation: Hardwood boards were secret-nailed to the subfloor, working from a straight baseline and staggering joins between rows by at least 300mm.
• Post-fit wait: We allowed the floor to settle for several days before returning to sand.
• Sanding: A progressive sequence from coarse to fine grit produced a smooth, even surface across all rooms.
• Staining: The agreed warm mid-tone stain was applied evenly and allowed to penetrate fully before the first lacquer coat.
• Lacquering: Two coats of matt lacquer were applied to protect the stain and leave a natural-looking finish.

The Result

The finished floor was exactly what the clients had in mind. The stain gave a rich, warm tone that complemented the existing decor and the matt lacquer kept the look natural rather than overly shiny. Fitting unfinished hardwood and finishing it on site costs more in time and labour than a pre-finished board but gives a result that is genuinely tailored to the space. Fitting costs run between £35 and £60 per square metre, with sanding and finishing adding to that depending on the specification chosen.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why choose unfinished hardwood over pre-finished boards?
Unfinished boards let you choose the exact colour and sheen level to suit your room after fitting. There are also no factory finish edges between boards, which means the finished surface sits completely flat. The trade-off is a longer overall project timeline.

How long does the full process take from installation to final finish?
Installation typically takes one to two days for a medium room. After a settling period of several days, sanding and finishing takes another one to two days. Allow at least a week from fitting to fully finished floor.

Can you match a stain to floors in an adjacent room?
Yes, in most cases. We can test stain combinations on offcuts or a concealed area to get as close as possible to an existing floor tone. Exact matching is not always achievable depending on species and age of the existing floor, but a close match is usually possible.

Project Overview

This project in Brixton tackled a solid wood floor that had been through significant wear and some localised physical damage. Several boards had cracked or split and a few sections had areas of surface staining from water ingress. The clients had been told by another contractor that the floor needed replacing, but we assessed it and confirmed that repair, sanding and refinishing would bring it back to a high standard. We replaced the boards that were beyond saving, sanded the whole floor back to bare wood, filled gaps and refinished with a protective oil.

The Challenge

When repairing a floor with replacement boards, the new timber needs to be matched as closely as possible to the existing species and profile. If the match is poor, the repaired sections will stand out permanently. This floor used a standard oak profile that was still available, which made sourcing straightforward. The greater challenge was the water staining on several boards -- sanding removed the surface discolouration in most cases but two boards had deeper penetration and needed full replacement. Getting the sanded surface level across old and new boards also required care.

Our Approach

• Inspection: A full walk of the floor to mark boards for replacement versus those that could be saved with sanding.
• Board replacement: Damaged boards were carefully lifted without disturbing adjacent boards, and matching replacement boards were cut and fitted.
• Gap filling: Gaps throughout the floor were filled with a matched compound and left to cure.
• Sanding: The full floor was sanded progressively to flatten any height differences between old and new boards and achieve a consistent surface.
• Finishing: A hardwax oil was applied in two coats, which penetrates the wood rather than sitting on top of it, giving a natural feel underfoot and good resistance to everyday wear.

The Result

The floor was saved entirely. The repaired areas were almost invisible once sanded and oiled, and the overall condition of the floor was transformed. The clients were relieved to avoid the cost and disruption of full replacement. Repair, sanding and refinishing a floor in this state costs between £25 and £45 per square metre for the sanding element, plus materials for any board replacements required. In most cases this is dramatically cheaper than new flooring and the structural integrity of an old solid wood floor is often superior to what is available as new.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do you know whether a floor can be repaired or needs replacing?
We assess the extent of structural damage, the number of boards beyond saving and the overall thickness remaining on the boards. If more than a third of the floor needs replacing, the economics of repair versus replacement start to shift. We give an honest assessment at the survey stage.

What is hardwax oil and how does it compare to lacquer?
Hardwax oil penetrates the wood fibre rather than forming a film on top. It gives a more natural, matte feel and is easy to spot-repair if the surface gets scratched. Lacquer is harder and shinier but requires full resanding if heavily damaged. Both are good options depending on the look and usage required.

Do you cover the Brixton area?
Yes. We work across Brixton and the wider south London area on a regular basis. Call us or fill in the enquiry form to arrange a free survey.

Project Overview

This laminate floor installation in Fulham covered the main living and hallway areas of a modern flat. The clients had decided on laminate for a combination of reasons: budget, ease of maintenance, and a wide choice of styles that matched the contemporary interior design they were going for. The existing floor was a mix of old carpet and vinyl that both needed to come out before the laminate could go down. We handled the full job from strip-out to finished floor.

The Challenge

Laminate installation in a flat requires particular attention to the acoustic underlay specification. Most leasehold flats in London have requirements in the lease around impact sound reduction, and fitting without an adequate underlay can cause problems with neighbours and the building management. We checked the lease requirements and specified an acoustic underlay that met the relevant standard. The existing subfloor was also uneven in the hallway area, which needed addressing before the laminate boards could lie flat without any movement or hollow spots.

Our Approach

• Strip-out: Existing carpet, gripper rods and vinyl were removed and disposed of, leaving clean subfloor throughout.
• Subfloor preparation: The hallway subfloor was levelled using a self-levelling compound to remove dips and provide a stable, flat base.
• Underlay: An acoustic underlay meeting the building's specification was laid across the entire area to be floored.
• Laminate installation: Boards were laid using a floating click-lock method, starting from the most visible wall and working across the room. Joints were staggered throughout and expansion gaps were maintained at all walls.
• Trims and transitions: Scotia beading was fitted at all skirting junctions and transition strips installed at doorways and between different floor areas.

The Result

The finished floor looked sharp and fitted the flat's aesthetic perfectly. The clients were particularly pleased with how much brighter and larger the hallway appeared. Laminate flooring installation in London typically costs between £35 and £60 per square metre for supply and fit, making it one of the most accessible flooring options available. It is durable, easy to clean and available in hundreds of designs to suit any interior.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can laminate flooring be fitted over existing tiles or vinyl?
In many cases yes, provided the existing surface is level, secure and not too high. We assess this at the survey stage and advise whether overlay is suitable or whether strip-out is the better option.

Is laminate flooring suitable for kitchens and bathrooms?
Standard laminate is not waterproof but many modern boards have moisture-resistant cores that can tolerate occasional splashes. For wet rooms, we would generally recommend luxury vinyl tile (LVT) instead, which is fully waterproof.

How long does laminate installation take for a typical flat?
A two to three bedroom flat is usually completeable in one day for fitting alone. If strip-out and subfloor work are needed, allow two days.

Project Overview

This wood floor project in Stockwell involved repairing a significantly worn and damaged solid wood floor before refinishing and staining it to a new colour. The floor had not been professionally maintained for many years and showed cracked boards, a broken finish, deep scratches and some surface staining. The owners had considered replacing the floor entirely but asked us to assess it first. Our view was that the structural quality of the underlying boards was still good and that a full repair and refinish would deliver an excellent result.

The Challenge

Floors in this condition present multiple challenges at once. The cracked and split boards needed replacing before any sanding could start. Some of the deeper scratches went through the full thickness of the original finish and into the wood, which meant the sanding had to go deep enough to fully remove them. The staining added another variable -- the clients wanted a darker tone than the original wood but the replacement boards needed to take the stain at the same rate as the older, more weathered boards. This required some careful preparation of the new boards to open the grain and ensure even uptake.

Our Approach

• Board assessment and replacement: Each damaged board was marked during inspection. Boards beyond saving were lifted and replaced with matching profile timber.
• Coarse sanding: An aggressive first pass removed the old finish, corrected surface height differences and removed the deep scratch damage.
• Progressive sanding: Medium and fine passes brought the surface to a smooth, even condition across all areas including the repaired sections.
• New board preparation: The replacement boards were lightly sanded by hand before staining to open the grain and help them absorb the stain evenly.
• Staining: A darker wood stain was applied to the whole floor in even strokes and worked into the grain. A second coat was applied to areas that needed more depth.
• Lacquering: Two coats of satin lacquer were applied to protect the stain and give a finish that held up to daily use.

The Result

The floor came back looking far better than the clients had anticipated. The repaired boards blended in well under the stain and the darker colour gave the room a warmer, more contemporary feel. The whole job cost a fraction of what a replacement floor would have been and delivered a more characterful result. Professional sanding, staining and refinishing in London runs between £25 and £45 per square metre, with board replacement costed separately depending on the number of boards required.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can you match replacement boards to an old floor?
We do our best to source a matching species and profile. Staining makes this significantly easier as the colour correction helps blend old and new boards. For floors where no stain is being applied, the match will be close but the replacement boards will be visibly newer until they age naturally.

Does staining a floor make it harder to maintain?
No. A stained and lacquered floor maintains exactly the same way as any lacquered floor. Sweep regularly, clean with a slightly damp mop and avoid harsh chemicals. The stain is sealed under the lacquer and is not affected by normal cleaning.

Is Stockwell covered by your service area?
Yes. We regularly work in Stockwell, Clapham, Brixton, Vauxhall and the surrounding areas of south London.