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Project Overview

A client in Peckham wanted parquet flooring fitted in their living space. The project covered subfloor preparation, door frame trimming, laying the parquet blocks in pattern, fitting beading around the perimeter, and installing thresholds at room transitions. It was a complete installation from an empty room with an uneven substrate through to a finished floor ready for use.

The Challenge

The room initially presented a variety of challenges that needed addressing before achieving the desired parquet floor. The subfloor was in less-than-ideal condition, uneven and in need of thorough preparation. The doors and their frames were not properly aligned with the intended flooring height, which would have created an unsightly and impractical result.

Parquet blocks are typically 15 to 22mm thick and are glued directly to the subfloor. Any unevenness in the subfloor transmits directly to the surface of the finished floor, creating peaks and hollows that are visible and will cause wear patterns to develop quickly at high points. Getting the subfloor flat before laying is not optional — it determines the quality of everything that follows.

Our Approach

Subfloor preparation was the first phase of work. We checked the floor with a long straight-edge, marking high and low spots. Ridges and bumps were ground back and low areas were filled with a floor levelling compound, which was mixed and poured in sections, feathering at the edges for a gradual transition. We allowed this to cure overnight before proceeding.

Door frames were undercut using an oscillating multi-tool with a flush-cut attachment, with a block offcut used as a guide to set the correct height. This step is important: it allows the parquet blocks to slide neatly under the architrave rather than leaving a visible gap at the doorway. The doors themselves were also trimmed to clear the new floor height.

With the subfloor ready and doorways prepared, block laying began. The room was set out first by finding the centre point and establishing the main laying lines. The adhesive was spread with a notched trowel in manageable sections, and blocks were pressed firmly into place, maintaining consistent joint widths. The herringbone or straight-lay pattern was checked regularly with a square as the work progressed.

Once the adhesive had cured, the floor was sanded lightly to even the surface and remove any height variation between individual blocks. Beading was then fitted around the perimeter, and thresholds were installed at each doorway to complete the job.

The Result

The parquet floor fitting was executed with precision, each block carefully placed to create a visually strong and uniform pattern. The results improved the room significantly, adding a quality and character that is hard to match with any other floor type. The subfloor preparation paid off: the surface is flat and even throughout, with no creaking or movement underfoot. Beading and thresholds finished the edges cleanly, and the doors now open and close freely over the new surface.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does parquet block installation take in a typical room?
A standard living room of 20 to 30 square metres typically takes two days: one for subfloor preparation and allowing levelling compound to cure, and one for laying, adhesive curing, and fitting the trim. Larger rooms or more complex patterns take longer.

Can parquet be laid over an existing floor?
Sometimes. The existing floor needs to be stable, firmly fixed, and at the right height to allow for the extra thickness of the parquet. Floating floors, carpet, or floors with movement or dampness issues need to be removed first. We always check the subfloor conditions before advising on whether removal is necessary.

What does parquet floor fitting cost in Peckham?
Parquet fitting in Peckham and South East London generally runs from £40 to £60 per square metre for labour, including subfloor preparation, laying, and trim fitting. The blocks themselves are a separate cost. Prices vary depending on the pattern, block size, and subfloor condition.

Project Overview

This Walthamstow project was one of the more involved jobs on our books for the period. It covered floorboard replacement in multiple rooms, gap filling and sanding throughout the property, stair sanding and sealing, and the installation of Rockwool underfloor insulation in the living room. The piano also needed moving, which required careful planning to avoid damaging the newly prepared subfloor. The full scope from start to finish took several days.

The Challenge

The floorboards in this space were showing clear signs of wear and tear, with some boards beyond repair and in need of replacement. The stairs had also lost their lustre and required sanding and sealing to revitalise them. Additionally, the living room floorboards needed lifting for insulation installation, adding another layer of complexity to the project.

Victorian terraces in Walthamstow regularly have suspended timber ground floors with little or no insulation beneath. Heat escapes through the floor, and draughts come up through gaps in the boards. The client was aware of this and wanted to address it properly at the same time as the cosmetic restoration, which meant lifting and relaying the living room boards in addition to all the sanding and finishing work.

Our Approach

We started in the living room, lifting the floorboards carefully so they could be relaid afterwards. Boards were numbered as they came up to make relaying in the correct position straightforward. Rockwool insulation slabs were cut to fit between the joists and pressed into place, then covered with a breathable membrane before the boards were refitted. The boards went back down in sequence, and any that were damaged beyond reuse were replaced with matching timber.

Damaged boards in other rooms were identified and replaced before sanding began. The replacement boards were fitted flush, and any nail heads were punched below the surface to avoid damaging sanding belts. The entire floor area, including all rooms, was then sanded in sequence using a drum sander along the grain.

Gap filling came after the first sanding pass. We used a mixed-dust filler to match the floor tone and applied it across the whole surface, working it into the gaps with a float. Once dry, a second fine sanding pass was run to remove any filler that had dried on the surface and leave a clean result.

The stairs were sanded separately using a detail sander on the treads and a belt sander where access allowed. Nosings were treated with particular care — they take the most foot traffic and the most wear, so the finish needed to be consistent and durable. All surfaces were lacquered with two to three coats.

The Result

The floorboards across the property were completely transformed. The replacement of damaged boards restored structural integrity, and gap filling produced a smooth, even surface throughout. The stairs now have a clean, renewed finish, with the lacquer bringing out the natural grain of the wood. In the living room, the Rockwool insulation has made a noticeable difference to the warmth of the room. The boards were refitted and finished to match the rest of the property, so the work is not visible but the improvement in comfort is immediate. The piano was managed without incident.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is it worth adding underfloor insulation when restoring floorboards?
For suspended timber ground floors, yes, it usually is. Lifting and relaying the boards adds cost, but if the floor is already being restored, the additional disruption is relatively minor. Rockwool or rigid insulation between the joists can reduce heat loss significantly in older properties, and it helps with draughts too.

How do you sand stairs professionally?
Stairs are sanded using a combination of tools: a belt or orbital sander on the treads, a detail sander for the corners, and hand-sanding for the spindle bases and any tight spots. It is slow, methodical work compared to open floor sanding, and it takes longer per square metre. Nosings and edges need particular attention because they wear faster and need a solid finish coat.

What does floorboard restoration cost in Walthamstow?
For a typical Victorian terrace in Walthamstow, floor sanding and lacquering runs around £25 to £40 per square metre. Stair sanding is usually priced per staircase or per tread. Insulation installation is an additional cost based on the area and access involved. We quote each project individually once we have seen the conditions.

Project Overview

This project in Twickenham involved a full parquet floor restoration in a period property. The scope was substantial: subfloor repairs, replacement of damaged parquet blocks using reclaimed matching timber, gap filling across the whole floor, sanding, and lacquering. The floor had not been touched in many years and needed work at every level before it could be refinished properly.

The Challenge

The initial state of this parquet floor presented a series of challenges. The subfloor and parquet floor had noticeable damage and required repair and fitting in certain areas. The absence of a protective finish left the wood vulnerable to further deterioration, lacking the lustre that defines a well-maintained parquet floor.

The project initiated with meticulous repairs to the subfloor and the fitting of new parquet blocks where needed. To maintain the authenticity and character of the floor, reclaimed parquet blocks were carefully sourced and integrated.

Finding matching reclaimed blocks is one of the more time-consuming parts of parquet restoration. Modern parquet tends to be thinner and cut to slightly different dimensions than Victorian-era original blocks, so off-the-shelf new stock rarely matches well. Sourcing the right reclaimed material took some effort, but it was the only way to achieve a consistent result once sanding was complete.

Our Approach

Subfloor repairs came first. Where boards were soft, damaged, or had movement, we fixed them or replaced the affected sections before anything else. Attempting to lay parquet over a weak subfloor means the blocks will eventually lift or shift, which undoes all the work done above.

Damaged parquet blocks were lifted carefully and the old adhesive cleaned away. The reclaimed replacement blocks were checked for size consistency and trimmed where needed before being glued into place. We used a suitable parquet adhesive and allowed full cure time before any sanding began, which is essential: sanding over fresh adhesive causes the blocks to shift and the surface becomes uneven.

Once all repairs were complete and cured, gap filling was carried out across the whole floor. We used a flexible filler mixed with sanding dust to create a close colour match. This was forced into the joints with a float and allowed to harden.

The main sanding sequence followed: coarse grit to remove old finish and flatten the surface, medium to refine, fine to prepare for finishing. Parquet requires diagonal sanding passes to avoid tearing the cross-grain blocks, with detail sanding at the perimeter and corners. After final vacuuming and tacking, three coats of water-based lacquer were applied with sanding between coats.

The Result

The parquet floor has undergone a substantial transformation. Extensive subfloor and parquet repairs restored stability and structure, giving a solid base for the finishing work. Reclaimed parquet blocks were carefully chosen and fitted, blending with the existing floor to preserve its original character. Gap filling addressed the unevenness and produced a smooth, even surface with no visible gaps. The floor was then sanded to remove all surface damage, and the lacquer brought out the natural warmth and grain of the wood. The finish is durable and provides real protection against daily use.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why is reclaimed parquet used for repairs rather than new blocks?
Old parquet blocks are typically thicker and cut from denser, slower-grown timber than modern equivalents. They match existing floors better in terms of dimensions and grain character. Using new blocks alongside old ones usually produces a visible colour and thickness mismatch once sanded, which most clients want to avoid.

How is gap filling done on parquet floors?
For parquet, we typically use a two-part epoxy filler or a flexible product mixed with sanding dust. The filler is worked into the joints with a wide float, allowed to cure, and then removed from the surface in the sanding process. The result is gaps filled at depth but no filler residue left on the block faces.

What does parquet floor restoration cost in Twickenham?
Parquet sanding and lacquering in Twickenham typically costs between £30 and £50 per square metre, depending on the floor's condition, whether block replacement is needed, and the finish chosen. Projects with significant repair work, reclaimed block sourcing, and full subfloor remediation will sit at the higher end of that range.

Project Overview

This project in Cricklewood involved replacing old, worn hardwood flooring with a new engineered wood floor. The work included lifting and disposing of the existing floor, trimming door frames to accommodate the new height, fitting the engineered boards, adding beading along the walls, and installing thresholds at room transitions. The client wanted a clean, modern feel that would work with the rest of the property.

The Challenge

The initial state of this space featured worn and outdated hardwood flooring, contributing to a dull atmosphere. The old flooring had lost its character, showing signs of wear and tear throughout. The project began by carefully lifting and disposing of the old hardwood flooring, creating a clean starting point for the new installation. The doors' frames were then trimmed to ensure a clean integration with the new flooring height.

Lifting old hardwood can reveal surprises. In this case, the subfloor beneath had some areas of minor unevenness that needed attention before the new engineered boards could go down. Engineered flooring is more tolerant of minor subfloor variation than solid wood, but it still needs a reasonably flat surface to avoid any bounce or flex underfoot.

There was also a question of matching the new floor height to the existing floor level in adjacent rooms that were not being done at the same time. Selecting the right board thickness and underlay combination ensured the transition worked out at a manageable step height.

Our Approach

After stripping the old floor, the subfloor was checked with a straight-edge and uneven sections were addressed with levelling compound where needed. Once dry and solid, a foam underlay was laid across the area before boarding began.

Door frames were undercut with a multi-tool and flush-cut blade to the correct height, using a spare board and underlay as a gauge. This ensures a tidy result at doorways without any visible gap between the board end and the frame base.

Engineered boards were laid floating, starting from the straightest wall and working across the room. Each row was staggered by at least 300mm from the previous one to prevent any lined-up joints that weaken the floor's appearance and structure. Expansion gaps were left at all walls and fixed objects. As the job progressed, boards were cut to fit around any obstacles and trimmed at the final row to leave a consistent expansion gap all around.

Beading was pinned in place along the perimeter to cover the expansion gaps, and thresholds were fitted at doorways to bridge the connection between the new floor and adjacent areas neatly.

The Result

The installation of the engineered wood flooring brought an immediate improvement to the room. Each plank was laid with care, producing a uniform and clean surface throughout. The new flooring introduced warmth and a sense of quality that the old, tired hardwood could no longer provide.

Thresholds were fitted to give smooth connections at doorways, and the beading around the perimeter produced a neat edge on all sides. The result is a well-integrated floor that functions well and looks considerably better than what was there before.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is engineered wood a good replacement for old solid hardwood?
In most cases, yes. Engineered wood offers similar appearance to solid hardwood at the surface level, but is more stable in conditions where humidity varies, such as older London properties that are not well insulated. It is also typically less expensive to supply and fit than solid hardwood of equivalent quality.

What underlay is best for engineered wood floors?
For a floating installation, a foam underlay with a built-in vapour barrier is standard in most situations. Where there is a concern about sound transmission between floors, a denser underlay with better acoustic properties is worth considering. We advise on underlay type based on the specific property and subfloor conditions.

What does engineered floor fitting cost in Cricklewood?
In Cricklewood and North West London, fitting rates for engineered flooring typically run between £35 and £55 per square metre for labour. Old floor removal is usually charged separately, as is any significant subfloor levelling. Materials are quoted separately based on the product selected.

Project Overview

This Croydon project involved a full floor restoration combining sanding, staining, gap filling, and lacquer sealing. The client wanted to change the colour of the floorboards as well as restore their condition, so the project required careful planning around the staining process. The result was a floor that looked considerably different in colour from the original while still retaining the character and natural grain of the timber.

The Challenge

Before the floor restoration work began, a thorough inspection was carried out. The goal was to understand the extent of the damage and the best approach to address it. The floor sanding process began to remove years of wear and reveal the natural timber beneath. This process also helped eliminate the scratches and imperfections that had built up across the floor's surface.

Staining adds a layer of complexity to a floor restoration project. The stain must be applied to a perfectly sanded, clean surface with no residue from previous finishes. Any contamination in the surface, even minor traces of old wax or oil, will cause the stain to take unevenly and produce a patchy result. This means the sanding process has to be more thorough and the surface preparation more careful than for a straightforward re-lacquer job.

The boards also had a number of gaps that needed addressing before staining. Gap filling after staining is not practical because the filler colour would not match the stained floor. Everything had to be done in the right sequence.

Our Approach

The first phase was sanding. We used a drum sander with a coarse-to-medium sequence to strip the old finish fully and remove surface damage. Once the floor was clean timber throughout, we ran a fine grit pass to prepare the surface for staining. Thorough vacuuming and tacking followed, as any dust left on the surface will be sealed in by the stain and become visible.

Gap filling came next, before any stain was applied. We used a filler matched to the intended post-stain colour rather than the raw timber colour. This requires some experience: the filler needs to be slightly lighter than the final stained colour because the stain will darken it slightly when applied. We tested the stain on an offcut first to check the colour match before committing to the whole floor.

The stain was applied in sections using a wide brush and lint-free cloth, working with the grain and maintaining a wet edge to avoid lap marks. The stain was allowed to penetrate the timber, and the excess was wiped back before it dried. On a pale stain this can be done quickly, but on a darker tone careful timing is needed to prevent blotching.

Once the stain had dried fully, a high-quality lacquer was applied in three coats. Each coat was sanded lightly before the next to maintain adhesion and remove any dust nibs. The final coat was left to cure before the floor was returned to use.

The Result

Addressing the gaps between the floorboards produced a smooth and consistent surface. The staining added depth and richness to the wood while transforming the colour of the room considerably. The lacquer sealant provided a durable top coat that protects the floor from daily wear and is straightforward to keep clean. The client was pleased with the colour change and commented that the room felt much more updated once the floor was done. The floor now provides reliable protection against wear and requires only standard routine maintenance.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can any floorboard be stained, or does the species matter?
Most timber species accept stain, but they take it differently. Pine, which is common in older Croydon properties, is an uneven absorber: knots and grain variations take stain at different rates, which can produce a blotchy finish if preparation is not thorough. Hardwoods tend to take stain more consistently. Proper sanding and an even wood conditioner treatment before staining makes a significant difference on pine and softwood floors.

Do gaps need filling before or after staining?
Always before. If you stain first and fill after, the filler will sit on a stained surface and will not absorb the stain itself, so it will look noticeably lighter than the surrounding wood. Filling before staining means the filler gets coloured along with the timber, and the match is much closer. We colour-test the filler against the intended stain tone before committing to the whole floor.

What does floor sanding and staining cost in Croydon?
In Croydon and South London, floor sanding with staining and lacquer typically costs between £30 and £45 per square metre. Staining adds some cost over a straightforward reseal because it requires additional preparation time and more careful technique. Gap filling is usually included in the overall price rather than charged as a separate item.

Project Overview

This project in Chiswick involved stripping out an existing hardwood floor and replacing it with Evolve American Engineered Oak in a natural wheat finish. The 125x18xRL planks were fitted throughout the property, with underlay, beading, thresholds, and door trimming all completed as part of the job. Fitting costs for engineered wood typically run between £35 and £60 per square metre depending on floor size and access.

The Challenge

Before our team began work, we carefully lifted and disposed of the existing hardwood flooring. This essential preparatory step cleared the way for a fresh installation. Following the strip-out, meticulous attention was given to the subfloor — checking levels, filling any low spots, and priming the surface so the new engineered oak would sit flat and stable across the entire area.

Our Approach

With the subfloor ready, we moved through the installation in a logical sequence:

• Underlay installation: We fitted Duralay Timbermate Excel Silver Wood Floor and Laminate Underlay. This provides a cushioning layer underfoot and acts as a moisture barrier, which is particularly important for engineered wood in older properties.
• Plank laying: Each 125x18xRL Evolve American Engineered Oak plank was laid with precision, working from a straight datum line to keep the pattern consistent across the room. The natural wheat tone of the oak creates an even, warm appearance that ties well with both period and contemporary interiors.
• Beading and trims: Beading was fitted along the perimeter to cover the expansion gap and give the floor a clean edge against the skirting. This detail makes a real difference to the finished appearance.
• Thresholds: Threshold strips were installed at doorways to provide a tidy transition between the new floor and adjoining rooms or surfaces.
• Door trimming: Doors and frames were undercut to accommodate the new floor height, so every door swings freely without catching.

The Result

The Duralay Timbermate Excel Silver underlay was expertly fitted before the engineered oak planks were laid. Each plank was positioned with care, creating a consistent, attractive appearance across the space. The natural grain of the American oak brought warmth into the home. Beading, thresholds, and trimmed doors gave the entire project a finished, professional look. The client in Chiswick now has a durable, attractive floor that will perform well for many years.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: How long does engineered wood floor fitting take in a typical home?
A: A single room of average size generally takes one to two days, including subfloor preparation and fitting all trims and thresholds. Larger properties or multiple rooms will extend this. We always give a specific timeframe when quoting.

Q: What is the advantage of Duralay Timbermate Excel Silver underlay?
A: It combines good acoustic dampening with a built-in vapour check layer. This means the floor feels solid underfoot and is protected from moisture rising from the subfloor — a key consideration in many London properties with suspended timber or concrete subfloors.

Q: Can engineered oak be sanded and refinished in the future?
A: Yes, most quality engineered oak boards with a wear layer of 3mm or more can be lightly sanded and refinished once or twice during their lifetime. The 18mm boards used here have a substantial wear layer, so future restoration is an option if needed.

Project Overview

This job in Honor Oak Park involved a comprehensive restoration of original floorboards in a period property. The work covered repairing and refitting damaged boards, filling gaps with pine slivers, sanding the entire surface, and applying a satin sealant. Floor sanding in London typically costs between £25 and £45 per square metre, with gap filling adding to the price depending on the extent of the work.

The Challenge

The floor in this old and charming house showed visible signs of wear and tear, with creaky floorboards, gaps between them, and a lacklustre appearance. The homeowners decided it was time for a comprehensive floor renovation to bring back the original beauty of the space. The main issues included loose and damaged floorboards, significant gaps between the boards, and an uneven surface that needed attention. Some boards were beyond repair and required replacement to give the floor a stable, even foundation before any finishing work could begin.

Our Approach

We worked through the project in a clear sequence:

• Floor inspection: Our team carried out a full inspection, identifying damaged boards, areas requiring refitting, and the boards that needed outright replacement.
• Board repairs and replacements: Loose boards were secured and those beyond saving were replaced with matched timber to maintain a consistent appearance.
• Gap filling with pine slivers: We used high-quality pine slivers cut to match the floor's existing colour. Fitting these into the gaps between boards eliminates the unsightly openings and stops dirt and debris collecting over time.
• Sanding: Professional-grade belt and edge sanders were used to remove scratches, stains, and the old worn finish across the full floor area, leaving a clean, open surface ready for sealing.
• Sealant application: The homeowners chose a durable satin sealant. We applied it with care to ensure even coverage and a consistent finish.

The Result

The transformation of the floor was significant. The sealant gave the boards a satin finish that brought out the natural tones of the wood without looking too shiny. It also provides a protective layer against daily wear, keeping the floor in good condition for years to come. The combination of repairs, gap filling, sanding, and sealing produced a floor that looks as though it has been properly maintained from the beginning. The homeowners in Honor Oak Park were very pleased with how the space came together.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: What type of sealant is best for period floorboards?
A: For most period properties, a water-based satin lacquer or hardwax oil works well. Satin sheen looks natural and does not highlight imperfections the way a high-gloss finish can. We discuss options with clients before starting, as personal preference and how the room is used both affect the right choice.

Q: How long do pine sliver gap fills last?
A: Done correctly, pine sliver gap filling is a long-term solution. Unlike flexible fillers that can crack or shrink, pine slivers move with the floor. They are particularly suitable for older properties where boards have dried out and the gaps are consistent in width.

Q: How often does a sanded floor need to be refinished?
A: This depends on how the floor is used. In a busy family home, a re-coat every five to eight years is typical. A maintenance buff and re-oil or re-lacquer can often extend the life of the finish without needing a full sand.

Project Overview

This project in Brixton SW9 involved a full restoration of worn hardwood floorboards. The scope included sanding, buffing, staining, and a final lacquer coat. Floor sanding and restoration in London generally runs between £25 and £45 per square metre, with staining and additional coats priced on top depending on the specification.

The Challenge

We started by carefully assessing the condition of the existing floor in our clients' home in Brixton. The flooring had lost its lustre, exhibiting signs of wear and tear, including scratches, dullness, and uneven surfaces. Our team saw clear potential to bring the floor back and set about sanding the surface to remove these imperfections. State-of-the-art equipment was used throughout the sanding process to achieve a smooth, even result without taking off more material than necessary.

Our Approach

The restoration moved through several distinct stages:

• Initial sanding: Belt and edge sanders removed the old finish, scratches, and surface staining. This opened the grain of the wood and gave us a clean surface to work with.
• Buffing: After sanding, we used specialised buffing machinery to bring the surface to a high level of smoothness. Buffing removes the fine marks left by sanding and draws out the natural character of the wood.
• Staining: The clients in Brixton SW9 chose a stain colour that suited their interior. We applied it evenly across the full floor, allowing the wood to absorb the colour uniformly before moving to the finish coat.
• Lacquer application: Professional-grade lacquer was applied using the correct equipment and technique. Multiple coats were used to build up a durable layer of protection that will withstand daily foot traffic.

The Result

Buffing the floorboards created a high level of smoothness and brought out the natural beauty of the wood before staining. The staining process allowed our clients in Brixton SW9 to personalise their floors, choosing from a range of tones to suit their space. Finally, high-quality lacquer was carefully applied to create a durable, attractive finish. The floor now looks sharp and is well-protected against future wear, giving the room a completely different feel compared to the tired surface we started with.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Can you stain hardwood floors any colour?
A: Most hardwood species take stain well, and we carry a wide range of tones from pale natural shades through to dark walnut. Results can vary slightly depending on the species — oak, pine, and ash all absorb stain differently. We always do a test patch before committing to the full floor.

Q: How long after lacquering can the floor be walked on?
A: Light foot traffic is usually possible within 24 hours of the final coat. However, we recommend keeping the floor clear of furniture and rugs for at least five to seven days to allow the lacquer to fully harden.

Q: Is lacquer or oil better for a Brixton-style Victorian floor?
A: Both are suitable, but lacquer gives a harder, more protective surface and is easier to clean day-to-day. Hardwax oil gives a more natural, matt look and can be spot-repaired without re-sanding. The right choice depends on how the room is used and what finish the client prefers.

Project Overview

This project in Rickmansworth brought an ageing parquet floor back into good condition through sanding, buffing, gap filling, lacquering, threshold fitting, and installation of replacement oak parquet blocks. Parquet sanding typically costs between £30 and £45 per square metre, with the final price reflecting the amount of repair work and the number of finish coats specified.

The Challenge

The project involved various tasks including sanding, buffing, lacquering, fitting thresholds, and material installations. The main focus was to bring the parquet flooring back to life and restore its natural character. Our team used the latest sanding equipment and techniques to remove blemishes, roughness, and scratches from the surface. Once the floor was smooth, it was buffed with care to ensure uniformity and to bring up its natural sheen before any finish was applied.

Our Approach

The job was broken down into clearly defined stages:

• Assessment and preparation: We inspected the full floor area to identify loose, damaged, or missing parquet blocks. Loose blocks were re-glued and any that could not be saved were replaced with matching oak parquet to maintain a consistent pattern.
• Sanding: Using professional drum and edge sanders, we worked through the floor in multiple passes — starting with a coarser grade to level the surface and remove the old finish, then progressing to finer grades for a clean, smooth result.
• Buffing: After sanding, buffing machines were used to finish the surface and prepare it for lacquering.
• Gap filling: Any gaps between parquet blocks were filled to produce a consistent surface before the lacquer was applied.
• Lacquering: Multiple coats of lacquer were applied with adequate drying time between coats to build a durable, protective finish.
• Thresholds: New threshold strips were fitted to complete the edges and transitions across the floor.

The Result

Our team fitted new thresholds and installed quality oak parquet flooring blocks to replace any sections that could not be restored. The sanding, buffing, and lacquering process transformed what was a worn and tired parquet floor into something that looks properly looked after. The Rickmansworth client now has an elegant, classic floor that will continue to perform well with straightforward maintenance.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: How many times can a parquet floor be sanded?
A: Traditional solid parquet blocks are typically 10mm to 16mm thick. Depending on how much material is removed each time, a solid parquet floor can usually be sanded four to six times over its lifetime. This makes it an excellent long-term investment compared to thinner engineered options.

Q: What happens when parquet blocks are missing or damaged?
A: We source matching replacement blocks as closely as possible in terms of species, size, and grain. Once sanded across the whole floor, the colour difference between old and new blocks tends to even out considerably, particularly after staining or lacquering.

Q: How long does a parquet sanding job take?
A: A typical room of around 20 to 30 square metres generally takes two to three days, including sanding, filling, and applying lacquer coats with drying time in between. Larger areas or heavier repairs will add to this.