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Project Overview

This parquet floor in Walthamstow had an oil finish that had not been maintained for several years and was showing the typical signs of a depleted oil coat: the surface had become dry and dull, the wood had lost its natural warmth, and minor gaps had opened between some of the blocks. Rather than a full sand, which would not have been necessary given the condition of the underlying wood, the right treatment was a targeted gap fill followed by a re-oil. This approach preserved the existing surface, required no heavy machinery, and was completed with far less disruption than a full sanding job. Re-oiling costs considerably less per visit than a full sanding cycle, making it a cost-effective part of any regular parquet maintenance programme.

The Challenge

The gaps in this parquet floor were relatively minor but distributed across a large area of the floor. Filling them required care because the gap fill had to sit flush with the surface of the blocks rather than proud of them, and the colour had to be a reasonable match for the existing wood. On an oiled floor where the surface is not being sanded down to bare wood, the filler cannot be matched by mixing it with fresh sanding dust, so the colour match relies entirely on selecting the right resin product. The re-oiling also needed to be done in stages rather than all at once, to allow each coat to be absorbed properly by the wood rather than pooling on the surface.

Our Approach

Initial inspection. We inspected the full floor to confirm that no blocks were loose and that the wood itself was in good condition beneath the depleted oil finish. No blocks required re-gluing, and no deeper sanding was needed.

Gap filling. The gaps between parquet blocks were filled with a natural resin compound selected for compatibility with an oiled finish. The filler was pressed into the gaps, allowed to cure, then lightly sanded flush with a fine abrasive pad to ensure a level surface before the oil was applied.

Surface preparation. The whole floor was lightly buffed with a fine pad to remove any surface contamination and open the wood's pores slightly, which helps the oil absorb evenly.

Oil application. Two coats of Osmo Polyx Hardwax Oil were applied, working in the direction of the block grain where possible. This product was selected for its combination of oil and wax, which gives a natural, lustrous finish and provides both penetrating protection from within the wood and a light surface hardness from the wax component.

The Result

The floor came back to life after the re-oiling. The natural warmth and colour of the parquet wood returned fully once the Osmo oil was applied, the gaps were closed and invisible, and the surface had a consistent, healthy sheen throughout. The owners now have a parquet floor that is properly protected and will remain in good condition with a re-oil every year or two. On a well-maintained oiled parquet floor, the need for a full sand can be pushed back considerably by keeping up with regular re-oiling, making this a practical long-term maintenance strategy.

Frequently Asked Questions

How often does an oiled parquet floor need re-oiling?
In a busy household, re-oiling every one to two years is usually appropriate. Lightly used rooms may go three years between treatments. The floor itself gives clear signals when re-oiling is due: the surface looks dry, the colour becomes flat, and water no longer beads on the surface as it should on a well-oiled floor.

Does re-oiling require sanding the parquet first?
Not for a routine maintenance re-oil. A light buff with a fine pad to remove surface contamination and open the pores is usually all that is needed. Sanding is only necessary if the floor has scratches that have gone through the oil finish into the bare wood, or if the surface needs significant correction.

What is Osmo Polyx Hardwax Oil and why is it used on parquet floors?
Osmo Polyx is a combination of natural oils and hard waxes that penetrates the grain of the wood while leaving a light protective layer on the surface. It is popular for parquet floors because it gives a natural appearance that enhances the character of the wood pattern, it is hard-wearing for a penetrating oil, and it can be re-applied without stripping the old finish.

Project Overview

St Johns the Evangelist Church in Bromley approached us for a large-scale parquet floor restoration covering 5,000 square feet of original wood block flooring. The church had been planning the project for some time, wanting experienced contractors who could handle the scale without disrupting services. We were commissioned to sand, gap fill, and refinish the entire floor to commercial-grade standard.

The Challenge

A project of this size in a public building brings its own set of difficulties. The floor had years of accumulated wear from daily foot traffic, regular events, and general use. Gaps had opened up between the blocks, the finish was dull and flaking in patches, and the surface had lost the consistency you want to see across a floor of this quality. Because parquet blocks are laid in a herringbone pattern at 45 degrees, sanding against the grain would have caused damage rather than resolved it. Planning the correct sanding sequence across 5,000 square feet, while keeping disruption to the church to a minimum, required careful scheduling and a clear method from the start.

Our Approach

Floor Inspection

Before any machinery was brought in, we carried out a thorough inspection of the full floor. Every section was assessed for loose blocks, significant gaps, and areas of more serious surface damage. This stage determined exactly what preparation work was needed before sanding could begin.

Gap Filling

All gaps between the parquet blocks were filled using a mixture of natural resin and wood dust. This method is the preferred approach for gap filling on wood floors because the resin remains slightly flexible when cured, meaning it will not crack or shrink back over time. The filled surface was left to fully harden before we moved on.

Multi-Stage Sanding

We worked through a multi-stage sanding programme, starting with coarser grits to remove the old finish and surface damage, then working progressively finer to achieve a smooth, even surface across the full 5,000 square feet. For parquet, the direction of each sanding pass is critical, so we carefully followed the grain of each section rather than working in a single direction across the floor.

Refinishing with Commercial-Grade Lacquer

Once sanding was complete, the floor was coated with Pallmann Pal-X Trend, a two-component lacquer designed specifically for heavy-traffic environments. It provides hard-wearing protection that is appropriate for a building used by the public on a daily basis. Multiple coats were applied, with light buffing between each one, to achieve a consistent and durable finish.

The Result

The finished floor looks completely different from how it appeared when we started. All surface imperfections were removed, the gaps are no longer visible, and the parquet pattern reads clearly across the whole space. The church now has a floor that is protected for years of continued heavy use. For commercial sanding projects of this kind in the Bromley area, pricing typically runs from around £25 to £45 per square metre depending on the condition of the floor and the finish specified.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does a commercial floor sanding project of this scale take?
A 5,000 square foot project requires several days of continuous work. We plan the schedule to minimise the number of sessions needed and to allow each coat of finish to cure properly before the next one is applied. The total duration depends on the condition of the floor and the number of coats required.

Can parquet floors be sanded as many times as solid wood floors?
Parquet blocks are generally shallower than solid timber planks, so the number of times they can be fully sanded is more limited. However, a professional assessment will confirm how much material remains and what sanding approach is appropriate. Many parquet floors can be fully restored without reaching that limit.

What finish is best for a church or public building floor?
A two-component oil-based or water-based commercial lacquer is the standard choice for public premises. Products like Pallmann Pal-X Trend are designed for exactly this kind of environment and provide the durability needed to withstand daily foot traffic without requiring frequent maintenance.

Project Overview

This Notting Hill property had a classic herringbone parquet floor that had been in the home for decades. The owners had been putting off a full sanding and re-oiling for a while, but the floor had reached the point where the old oil finish was worn through in the main walkways and the wood had lost its warmth and depth. They wanted the floor brought back to a natural, open-grained oil finish rather than a lacquered look, which suited the character of the property well.

The Challenge

Parquet floors require a different approach to sanding compared to standard strip boards. The blocks are laid at opposing angles in a herringbone pattern, which means that following a simple straight sanding line across the floor would mean working against the grain on half the blocks at any given point. Do that with a heavy drum sander and you risk tearing the fibres and leaving scratch marks that are very difficult to remove. The other challenge was the floor's existing oil finish, which had built up unevenly over the years and needed to be stripped back completely before a new application could be done correctly.

Our Approach

Initial Assessment

We started by walking the full floor to check for any loose or raised blocks, and to assess the depth of remaining timber above the tongue. This confirmed there was enough material to sand back without any risk to the structural integrity of the blocks.

Diagonal Sanding Passes

To sand a herringbone parquet correctly, you work at 45 degrees to the main pattern, which puts the machine at roughly the same angle to the grain of each alternating block. We worked through multiple grit stages, starting coarser to remove the old finish and level the surface, then finishing finer to prepare the wood for oiling. A belt edger and hand scrapers were used close to the skirting boards and in corners.

Dust Removal and Preparation

Before oiling, the floor was thoroughly vacuumed and tack-cloth wiped to remove all residual dust. Even small amounts of dust trapped under an oil finish will affect the final appearance and durability.

Oil Application

We applied a hardwearing natural wood oil in two coats, buffing the first coat into the wood and allowing it to cure before the second application. Oil finishes suit parquet particularly well because they penetrate the wood rather than sitting on top, giving the floor a more natural feel underfoot and making localised touch-ups easier in the future.

The Result

The finished floor looks genuinely transformed. The herringbone pattern shows clearly, the wood grain is visible, and the oil finish gives the blocks a warm, natural tone that suits the property. The owners were particularly pleased with how consistent the result was across the whole room. Floor sanding projects in London typically cost between £25 and £45 per square metre, with parquet at the upper end of that range due to the additional care required during sanding.

Frequently Asked Questions

How often does an oiled parquet floor need re-oiling?
In a domestic setting with normal use, a fully sanded and re-oiled parquet floor typically needs a maintenance coat every one to two years. This is a much quicker process than a full sand and does not require furniture removal or extended drying times.

Is oil or lacquer better for a herringbone parquet floor?
Both are suitable, and the choice comes down to the look and feel you want. Lacquer gives a more protective hard surface and is easier to keep clean in busy households. Oil gives a more natural, matte appearance and can be touched up in small areas without resanding. Parquet in older properties often suits oil better aesthetically.

Can a parquet floor be repaired if some blocks are damaged or missing?
Yes, individual blocks can be replaced. We source matching timber where possible, and after sanding the full floor the repaired sections blend in well. If the original wood species is unusual, sourcing a close match takes longer, but it is rarely impossible.

Project Overview

This Walthamstow property needed a new floor fitted across the ground floor, with the client choosing engineered wood as the preferred option. The installation included all floor accessories, beading and threshold strips to complete the finish throughout. The client had chosen their board specification in advance and wanted a clean, straightforward installation with minimal disruption.

The Challenge

The subfloor in this property had a slight variation in level across the room, which is common in older London terraces. Before any boards go down, the subfloor must be within the manufacturer's tolerance for levelness, otherwise boards will flex, joints will open, and the floor will develop a hollow sound underfoot. There was also a question about the best installation method given the layout of the space and the direction of natural light, which affects how the grain of the boards reads in a finished room.

Our Approach

Subfloor Preparation

We started with a full inspection and measurement of the subfloor. Where the level was outside tolerance, we used a self-levelling compound to bring the surface into an acceptable range before any boarding work began. This step takes time but is what separates a floor that stays flat and tight over years from one that starts showing problems within months.

Acclimatisation

The engineered boards were left in the property for the recommended period before fitting. Engineered wood is more stable than solid hardwood, but it still responds to the temperature and humidity of the space it will be installed in. Skipping this step is a common cause of gaps appearing after fitting.

Board Installation

The boards were fitted using a floating method, which is well suited to this type of subfloor and allows the floor to move slightly with seasonal changes in the home environment. We worked from the most visible wall, keeping the layout symmetrical and the board direction aligned to the length of the room. Expansion gaps were maintained at all perimeters.

Finishing and Accessories

Once all boards were down, we fitted skirting beading to cover the expansion gaps and installed threshold strips at all doorways and transitions. These finishing details are what make the installation look complete and professional rather than rushed.

The Result

The finished floor runs cleanly through the ground floor of the property, with all accessories neatly fitted and consistent throughout. The client was happy with the layout decision and the way the boards read in the natural light of the space. Engineered floor fitting in London is typically priced between £35 and £60 per square metre for supply and fit, depending on the board specification and the condition of the existing subfloor.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does engineered floor fitting take for a ground floor?
For a typical two to three room ground floor in a London terrace, fitting usually takes one to two days, depending on the complexity of the layout and the amount of subfloor preparation needed. Larger areas or more complicated layouts will take longer.

Can engineered flooring be sanded and refinished?
Yes, most engineered boards have a wear layer thick enough to be lightly sanded and refinished at least once during their lifetime. The number of times depends on the thickness of the veneer layer, which varies between products. We can advise on this when specifying the boards.

Is engineered wood suitable for properties with underfloor heating?
Engineered wood is one of the best options for use over underfloor heating. Its layered construction gives it much greater dimensional stability than solid wood when exposed to the heat cycles of a UFH system. We check the specific product compatibility and maximum temperature tolerances for each installation.

Project Overview

This Highgate property had original hardwood floors throughout the main living areas. The floor had been in place for many years and had developed gaps between the boards along with a surface finish that was scratched, dull, and uneven in places. The owners wanted a full sand, professional gap filling, and a fresh lacquer finish that would be durable enough for a busy household.

The Challenge

The gaps in this floor were significant enough that simply sanding over them would not have produced a satisfactory result. Gaps allow cold draughts, collect debris, and weaken the structural stability of the floor over time. They also look poor once a fresh finish is applied, as the new lacquer highlights any inconsistencies in the surface. The existing finish was also quite thick in areas, suggesting multiple coats had been applied over the years without a full strip back between them. This kind of layering can cause adhesion problems if you simply sand lightly and recoat without removing the build-up properly.

Our Approach

Floor Inspection and Board Stabilisation

We began by checking all the boards for movement and fixing any that had become loose. Boards that flex or creak need to be secured before sanding, otherwise the sanding process can make the issue worse and the finish will crack at the movement points.

Gap Filling

All gaps between the floorboards were filled with a mixture of resin and sawdust, collected during the first pass of sanding so that the colour of the fill closely matches the timber. This method produces a far more natural result than off-the-shelf fillers, which often dry to a noticeably different shade. The resin remains slightly flexible after curing, which means it moves with the wood during seasonal changes rather than cracking out.

Multi-Stage Sanding

With the gaps filled and cured, we worked through a full sanding programme across the whole floor, starting with a grit appropriate for the depth of finish removal needed and finishing with a fine grit to leave a smooth, consistent surface ready for the new finish.

Lacquer Application

Three coats of a hard-wearing water-based lacquer were applied, with light buffing between coats. A water-based product was chosen to give a clear, natural-looking finish that would not yellow over time, which suits the light interior of this property well.

The Result

The floor looks significantly better than when we started. The gaps have gone, the surface is even and smooth, and the lacquer gives solid protection for everyday use. The client noted the difference in the draughtiness of the room, which the gap filling had clearly helped with. Hardwood floor sanding in London is typically priced from around £25 to £45 per square metre, varying with floor condition, area size, and finish type.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does sanded floor lacquer take to dry before furniture can go back?
A water-based lacquer is typically touch-dry within a few hours of each coat, but the floor should be left for at least 24 hours after the final coat before furniture is replaced. Full hardness is usually reached within five to seven days, during which time heavy use should be avoided.

Does gap filling last permanently?
A resin and sawdust fill is long-lasting and much more durable than standard filler, but no gap fill is entirely permanent on a wood floor. Wood moves with the seasons, and over time some gaps may reopen slightly. Most clients find the results last many years before any touch-up is needed.

Can all hardwood floors be sanded, regardless of their age?
Most hardwood floors can be sanded regardless of age, as long as there is enough material remaining above the tongue. We check the board thickness during our initial inspection and will advise if there are any limitations. Very old floors are often in better condition for sanding than people expect.

Project Overview

This Fulham SW6 property had engineered wood flooring that had been in place for several years and was showing significant surface wear. The boards had developed scratches, the original finish was dull and uneven, and some areas close to the kitchen had started to look noticeably worse than the rest. The client wanted the floor sanded back and refinished to restore its appearance without the cost of replacement.

The Challenge

Sanding engineered wood floors requires more care than sanding solid timber. The wear layer on an engineered board is thinner than on solid wood, so there is less margin for error. Taking off too much material can expose the core layers beneath the veneer, which cannot be finished to a satisfactory standard. We needed to determine the exact thickness of the veneer on this particular product before agreeing to sand it. The floor had a 4mm hardwood veneer, which was sufficient to allow a careful light sand and refinish. Any thinner and we would have advised a different approach.

Our Approach

Veneer Depth Assessment

Before any sanding began, we checked the veneer thickness carefully at the edge of the floor where a board had been partially lifted for inspection. Confirming there was enough material to work with is the most important first step when sanding engineered floors.

Light Sanding Programme

We used a light sanding programme designed specifically for engineered boards, working with finer starting grits than we would typically use on solid wood. This removes the damaged surface layer without cutting deeply into the veneer. Multiple passes with increasing fineness brought the surface to a smooth, consistent condition ready for finishing.

Edge and Detail Work

The edges of the floor close to the skirting and around the doorways were worked by hand using orbital sanders and scrapers to ensure a consistent result across the whole room. These areas are easy to miss or rush, and inconsistency here is immediately obvious on a finished floor.

Finish Application

A hard-wearing lacquer was applied in three coats to provide good protection for daily use. The product was chosen to complement the natural tone of the oak veneer without adding a heavy or artificial sheen to the surface.

The Result

The floor looked noticeably better once the old finish had been removed and the new lacquer applied. The scratches were gone, the colour was even, and the boards looked consistent across the whole room. The client was pleased to have saved the cost of replacement and noted that the floor looked better than it had for several years. Engineered floor sanding in London typically runs from £25 to £40 per square metre, depending on the condition and the veneer depth available.

Frequently Asked Questions

How many times can an engineered floor be sanded?
This depends entirely on the thickness of the veneer. A 2mm wear layer generally allows one careful sand. A 4mm or 6mm layer can be sanded two or possibly three times over the lifetime of the floor. We assess each floor individually before committing to a programme.

What are the signs that an engineered floor needs refinishing rather than replacing?
If the finish is dull, scratched, or worn through but the boards themselves are structurally sound and the veneer is undamaged, refinishing is almost always the better option. It costs significantly less than replacement and produces excellent results when done correctly.

Does sanding void the manufacturer warranty on engineered flooring?
This varies between manufacturers. Some specifically include sanding and refinishing within the product's expected lifecycle, while others have conditions attached. We advise checking the specific warranty terms before proceeding. In most cases, after the initial warranty period, the floor can be refinished without restriction.

Project Overview

This Wimbledon SW20 property had original pine floorboards that had been covered for years and recently exposed by the current owners. The boards were in reasonable structural condition but were heavily discoloured, had an old finish that had worn unevenly, and needed a stain applied to achieve the darker tone the client wanted before varnishing. The project covered the main living room and hallway.

The Challenge

Staining a floor after sanding sounds straightforward but getting a consistent result across a whole room requires careful preparation. Pine is a particularly absorbent and variable timber. It has hard grain lines and soft grain patches that take stain at very different rates. Without proper preparation, these differences become exaggerated and the floor ends up with a patchy, uneven colour rather than the consistent tone the client wants. The floor also had a previous stain in places, which meant the boards needed to be sanded back uniformly before any new colour work could be done.

Our Approach

Full Strip Back

We started with a thorough multi-stage sand, working from coarser grits to completely remove all remnants of the old finish and any existing stain. The goal at this stage is to get back to bare, consistent wood across the entire floor, which is the only way to guarantee a uniform result with staining.

Board Repairs and Gap Filling

Before staining, we addressed any gaps between boards and secured a couple of boards that had become slightly loose. Filling gaps at this stage is important because unfilled gaps will absorb stain differently and look dark and inconsistent in the finished floor.

Stain Application

The stain was applied evenly across the whole floor in the direction of the grain, working in manageable sections to keep a wet edge and avoid lap marks. The client had chosen a mid-dark oak tone that complemented the rest of the room's interior. A second coat was applied to deepen the colour to the agreed shade.

Varnish Coats

Once the stain was fully dry, three coats of a hard-wearing polyurethane varnish were applied. This protects the stain from wear and provides the durable, easy-to-clean surface finish the client needed for a busy family home.

The Result

The finished floor bears no resemblance to the tired, discoloured boards we started with. The stain colour is even and consistent throughout, and the varnish gives a clean, durable surface. The client was particularly pleased with how the darker tone had pulled the room together visually. Floor sanding and finishing in the Wimbledon area typically costs between £25 and £45 per square metre, with staining adding a small amount to the overall price.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can the colour be changed after staining and varnishing?
Yes, but it requires a full sand back to bare wood before a different stain can be applied. Going darker is straightforward. Going lighter requires removing the existing stain entirely through sanding, which takes more time. We always advise testing stain colours on an inconspicuous area before committing to the full floor.

How long does a stained and varnished floor last before it needs redoing?
A well-applied varnish in a domestic setting typically lasts five to ten years in high-traffic areas and considerably longer in rooms with less use. Regular sweeping and occasional damp mopping with a suitable wood floor product will extend the life of the finish significantly.

Is pine a good floor to sand and stain?
Pine is one of the most common floor timbers in London properties and sands and stains well when prepared correctly. It is softer than hardwoods such as oak, so it will show more wear over time, but a good varnish provides adequate protection for most domestic uses. Many clients prefer pine precisely because of its character and grain.

Project Overview

The client at this Streatham Hill SW16 property had selected QuickStep Impressive Ultra Classic Oak Natural laminate flooring and needed it fitted throughout the ground floor. QuickStep Impressive Ultra is one of the better-performing laminate products on the market, with a realistic wood texture and a scratch-resistant surface layer. The installation covered the living room, hallway, and a connecting dining area.

The Challenge

The main challenge on this project was the subfloor condition. The property had an older concrete screed base in the hallway and a timber subfloor in the living and dining areas, which meant we were dealing with two different subfloor types in a continuous installation. These different surfaces behave slightly differently, and getting the joint between them right, with consistent levelness on both sides, required careful preparation work before any boards went down. There was also a slight damp reading in one section of the concrete subfloor, which needed addressing before fitting to avoid any issues with the boards over time.

Our Approach

Subfloor Preparation

The concrete areas were checked with a damp meter and treated with a damp-proof membrane where the readings were above the acceptable threshold. Both the concrete and the timber subfloor sections were levelled to within the tolerance required by the QuickStep installation guidelines. Getting this right before the boards go down prevents movement, hollow spots, and joint separation later.

Underlayment

A foam underlayment with built-in vapour barrier was laid across the full floor area. This provides additional sound insulation, a slight cushion underfoot, and a secondary barrier against any residual moisture from the subfloor below.

Board Installation

The boards were fitted using a floating click system, which is the standard installation method for QuickStep Impressive Ultra. We planned the layout to avoid having very narrow cuts at either side of the room and aligned the boards with the main light source to make the most of the grain texture. Expansion gaps were maintained at all walls and fixed elements throughout.

Finishing

All expansion gaps were covered with matching QuickStep beading and threshold strips. The finish details at doorways were given particular attention, as these transitions are where a laminate installation most often looks unfinished if not done carefully.

The Result

The finished floor runs cleanly throughout the ground floor, with a consistent look across both subfloor types. The QuickStep boards have a natural, realistic texture that suits the property well. The client was happy with the result and the level of disruption, which was kept to a single working day for the fitting itself. Laminate floor fitting typically costs between £35 and £55 per square metre for supply and fit of a mid-range product.

Frequently Asked Questions

How does QuickStep Impressive Ultra compare to cheaper laminate products?
The main differences are in the surface texture, wear layer thickness, and the quality of the click joint. Impressive Ultra has a more realistic embossed texture that closely matches the feel of real wood, a thicker wear layer for greater scratch resistance, and a tighter joint that is less prone to movement or separation over time. It is worth the higher cost in a high-traffic area.

Can laminate flooring be repaired if individual boards are damaged?
On a floating installation, individual boards can be replaced without lifting the whole floor, as long as you have spare boards of the same product. This is one of the advantages of a click-fit floating floor. We always recommend keeping a small number of spare boards from the original batch for this reason.

Is laminate suitable for a hallway with a front door?
Laminate can work well in a hallway, but the area directly inside a front door is exposed to more moisture and grit than the rest of the floor. A good underlayment, a moisture-resistant laminate product like Impressive Ultra, and sensible use of a door mat will all extend the life of the floor significantly in this area.

Project Overview

This Mortlake SW14 property had original hardwood floorboards throughout the first floor. The boards had been in place for many years and were showing signs of significant surface wear, with the existing finish scratched through in the heavily trafficked areas and the colour looking faded and inconsistent. The client wanted the floor sanded, stained to a richer colour, and finished with a durable lacquer.

The Challenge

This project involved both staining and refinishing, which requires the preparation to be particularly thorough. Any variation in how the boards absorb the stain will be visible in the finished floor, so the sand needs to be consistent right across the room. The floorboards also had some gaps that needed addressing before work started, as unfilled gaps absorb stain at a different rate and create obvious dark lines in the finished colour. There were also a few boards in the hallway area that had developed some surface checking, which required careful treatment before staining to prevent the cracks from showing through the finish.

Our Approach

Inspection and Repairs

We started with a full assessment of the floor condition. Loose boards were fixed down, gaps between boards were filled with a resin and sawdust mix, and the surface checking on the affected boards was treated before sanding began. Carrying out repairs before sanding rather than after gives a much better result as the repaired areas blend into the sanded surface cleanly.

Full Sand Back

The floor was sanded back to bare wood in stages, working from coarser to finer grits across the whole area. The goal was a completely uniform, bare surface with no remnants of the old finish. Only from this base can a stain be applied evenly.

Staining

The chosen stain was a warm mid-brown tone that the client had selected to complement the property's interior. We applied it in the direction of the grain, maintaining a wet edge throughout to avoid any lines or patches in the colour. A second coat was applied in the hallway area, where the boards had a slightly more open grain and needed the extra depth of colour.

Lacquer Finish

Three coats of a hard-wearing lacquer were applied over the dried stain, with light buffing between each coat. The result is a surface that protects the stain and provides good resistance to everyday wear and spills.

The Result

The transformation was striking. The floor came from a worn, faded surface to a richly coloured, even finish that suited the property well. Gaps and surface damage had been addressed, and the lacquer gave a clean, protective finish throughout. The client was very pleased with the result. Wood floor sanding and refinishing in SW14 and the surrounding area typically costs between £25 and £45 per square metre, with staining adding a modest increment to the overall price.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does a stained and lacquered floor need before it can be walked on?
The floor can usually be walked on carefully after 24 hours from the final coat. However, for normal furniture use, we recommend waiting at least 48 to 72 hours. Full cure is typically reached after five to seven days, during which time rugs and heavy furniture should be kept off.

Will staining the floor make it harder to maintain?
Stained and lacquered floors are maintained in exactly the same way as any lacquered floor. Regular sweeping and occasional damp mopping with a wood-safe cleaner are all that is needed. The lacquer protects the stain, so the colour does not fade with normal cleaning.

Can I change the stain colour in future if my tastes change?
Yes. The floor can be sanded back and restained to a different colour at any time, as long as there is sufficient board thickness remaining. Going to a darker shade is straightforward. Going lighter requires a more thorough sand to fully remove the existing colour from the wood fibres.

Project Overview

This Clapton E5 project combined a new oak parquet floor installation with full sanding and refinishing of the laid floor. The client was having a new herringbone parquet floor put down in the main ground floor reception room, and wanted the installation, sanding, and finishing all handled as a single project. Oak parquet blocks were specified, laid in the traditional herringbone pattern, then sanded and finished to a natural lacquer once the adhesive had fully cured.

The Challenge

Installing and then sanding a new parquet floor involves careful sequencing. The blocks must be fully bonded to the subfloor before any sanding takes place, otherwise the sanding process can lift blocks or cause them to move and leave gaps. The adhesive cure time needs to be respected rather than rushed, which means the project takes longer than either installation or sanding alone. The subfloor in this property also needed plywood overlay work to bring it up to the flatness required for a glued parquet installation. Parquet is far less forgiving of subfloor irregularities than a floating engineered board, so this preparation stage could not be skipped.

Our Approach

Subfloor Preparation

We installed a plywood subfloor overlay across the full room, secured and flat, to provide the base needed for a glued parquet installation. The surface was checked with a long straight edge at multiple points to confirm it was within the tolerance required.

Parquet Block Installation

The herringbone pattern was set out from the centre of the room to ensure the pattern sits symmetrically. Oak parquet blocks were bonded to the prepared subfloor using a flexible wood floor adhesive, which provides the bond needed while allowing a small degree of movement as the timber responds to changes in room conditions. The full room was completed before the floor was left to cure.

Sanding the New Floor

Once the adhesive had fully cured, we sanded the floor following the correct diagonal approach for herringbone parquet. New parquet blocks often have slight height variations between individual pieces, so the initial sanding pass works to level the surface before the finishing passes refine it. The result is a flat, consistent surface across the whole room.

Finishing

A natural-tone hardwearing lacquer was applied in three coats to protect the new oak floor. The finish was chosen to let the natural colour and grain of the oak read clearly without adding any artificial tint.

The Result

The finished herringbone floor is a significant upgrade to the room. The pattern reads well in the space, the oak colour is warm and consistent, and the finish provides good protection for daily use. The client was pleased with the quality of the work and the way the installation was managed as a single cohesive project. Parquet installation and sanding in London typically costs from £70 to £100 per square metre for supply, fit, sand, and finish, reflecting the additional skill and time required compared to a straightforward strip board installation.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does new parquet adhesive need to cure before sanding?
This depends on the specific adhesive product used, the ambient temperature, and the subfloor conditions. Most wood floor adhesives require a minimum of 24 to 48 hours before sanding can begin, and some two-component adhesives need longer. We always follow the manufacturer's guidance and will not rush this stage.

Is new parquet more expensive than engineered boards?
Parquet installation is generally at the higher end of wood floor pricing because of the additional skill required in laying the pattern, the adhesive bonding process, and the specialist sanding approach. For a herringbone oak parquet installed, sanded, and finished, you can expect to pay from around £70 to £100 per square metre as a guide.

How should a new oak parquet floor be maintained long term?
Regular sweeping and occasional damp mopping with a wood-compatible cleaner is sufficient for day-to-day maintenance. Avoid excess water on the surface. Felt pads under furniture legs prevent scratches. The floor should be refinished when the lacquer shows signs of wear, typically every five to ten years depending on use.