Floor Sanding & Fitting Project Gallery

Project Overview

This engineered wood floor fitting project took place at a detached house in North Finchley, North London. The client was upgrading from a worn fitted carpet in their living room and dining room and wanted a real wood floor that would be durable, easy to maintain, and suitable for a home with young children and a dog. Engineered wood was the right choice on all counts. It has a genuine hardwood surface layer, is more stable than solid wood, and can handle the humidity and temperature variation that comes with a busy family home. For a professional supply and fit, engineered wood floor installation in London generally runs between £35 and £60 per square metre.

The Challenge

The two rooms shared a doorway, and getting the boards to run continuously through both spaces without a threshold strip at the door was something the client specifically wanted. This required careful planning of the board layout from the start, as the run direction had to work visually in both rooms simultaneously. The subfloor was a combination of chipboard sheets over joists, and one section near the bay window had developed some bounce that needed to be addressed before fitting. A bouncy subfloor puts stress on click joints and can cause boards to pop apart over time if not sorted at the outset.

Our Approach

1. Carpet removal: We lifted and removed the existing carpets, gripper rods, and underlay from both rooms, disposing of all waste off-site.
2. Subfloor inspection and repair: The chipboard was checked for movement, squeaks, and high spots. Two boards near the bay window were screwed back down firmly to eliminate the bounce, and a couple of raised edges were planed flat.
3. Acclimatisation: The engineered boards were left flat in the rooms for 48 hours before fitting to allow them to adjust to the temperature and humidity of the space. Skipping this step is a common cause of gapping or cupping after installation.
4. Underlay: A high-quality foam underlay with a built-in damp-proof membrane was laid in both rooms, overlapping at seams and taped securely.
5. Fitting: The boards were installed using a floating click system, laid in a staggered pattern for structural strength. The run direction was planned to pass through the doorway without interruption, giving the open-plan feel the client was after.
6. Finishing: Expansion gaps were covered with matching skirting boards, and any door frames that needed undercutting for clearance were dealt with cleanly so the boards tucked underneath rather than butting up against them.

The Result

The finished floor looked excellent. The boards ran cleanly through both rooms without any interruption at the doorway, which made the space feel larger and more connected. The engineered oak chosen had a brushed natural finish that worked well with the existing furniture and decor. The client was pleased with how practical it already felt, noting that marks from the dog could be wiped off instantly, which was not the case with the old carpet. Engineered wood installed over a well-prepared subfloor and maintained correctly should last 25 to 30 years before any remedial work is needed.

Frequently Asked Questions

Does engineered wood flooring need to acclimatise before fitting?

Yes. Engineered boards should be left flat in the room where they will be fitted for at least 48 hours before installation. This allows the wood to adjust to the ambient temperature and humidity and reduces the risk of post-installation gapping or warping caused by boards that go in at a different moisture content from the room environment.

Can engineered wood be fitted over underfloor heating?

Most engineered wood products are compatible with underfloor heating, making them a much better choice than solid wood in these situations. The key is to ensure the surface temperature does not exceed 27 degrees Celsius and that the system is ramped up and down gradually rather than switched on at full power in a cold room. Always check the specific product's guidelines before installation.

What is the difference between floating and glued engineered wood fitting?

Floating fitting means the boards click together and rest on the underlay without being fixed to the subfloor. It is quick, allows some movement, and can be taken up if needed. Gluing the boards down is more permanent and reduces any residual movement or sound, but is harder to reverse. For most domestic projects over a chipboard or concrete subfloor, floating fitting is perfectly adequate.

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Project Overview

This project in West Ealing involved the supply, fitting, sanding, and lacquering of modern mosaic oak parquet flooring in a ground-floor reception room. The client wanted the classic look of a traditional herringbone parquet floor but had a budget that made individual block laying impractical. Mosaic oak finger panels offered the perfect answer. These panels come with a pre-arranged parquet pattern already assembled on a backing, which cuts the installation time significantly compared to laying individual blocks. The result is visually indistinguishable from a traditionally laid parquet floor once sanded and finished. Mosaic parquet installation with finishing typically falls in the £70 to £100 per square metre range.

The Challenge

The main challenge with mosaic parquet panels is that the backing material needs to be completely removed before sanding can begin. The panels arrive glued to a hessian or paper backing for ease of installation, but this backing must be fully stripped and the adhesive residue removed to get a true, consistent sand across the surface. Any residue left on the surface will clog sanding belts and prevent the finish from bonding properly. In addition, the panels had to be laid so that the finger pattern aligned correctly across the full width of the room. Getting this layout right at the start is critical because any misalignment is very obvious once the floor is finished.

Our Approach

1. Subfloor preparation: We removed the existing floor covering and prepared the subfloor, ensuring it was clean, flat, and dry. Any high spots were sanded back and low areas were filled with a levelling compound.
2. Layout planning: We dry-laid the first few rows across the room to establish the correct alignment and confirm the panel orientation before any adhesive was applied.
3. Panel fitting: The panels were glued down using a flexible floor adhesive, working from the centre of the room out to the walls. The backing was pressed firmly into the adhesive and any air pockets worked out before the adhesive set.
4. Backing removal: Once the adhesive had cured, we dampened the backing with water and carefully peeled it away. Any remaining adhesive residue was scraped and sanded off before the main sanding run began.
5. Sanding: The surface was sanded diagonally in two directions, as with traditional herringbone parquet, progressing through coarse, medium, and fine grits to achieve a flat, smooth result. Edge work was completed with a detail sander and hand tools in tight corners.
6. Lacquering: Three coats of a hard gloss lacquer were applied, with light sanding between coats. A stain was applied before the final coat to give the oak a richer, warmer tone that the client preferred over the natural pale colour of the raw wood.

The Result

The finished floor looked exactly like a traditional parquet installation. The pattern was sharp, the surface smooth, and the stained lacquer gave the oak a warm, amber depth that complemented the period feel of the room. The client was genuinely surprised at how authentic it looked compared to the raw panels they had seen before fitting. This is a floor that will hold up well in a family home and, being solid oak at the surface, can be re-sanded and refinished in the future should it ever need attention.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is mosaic oak parquet and how does it differ from traditional parquet?

Mosaic parquet uses small oak finger blocks pre-assembled on a backing panel. Traditional parquet involves each block being laid individually. The visual result is essentially the same. Mosaic panels install faster and at lower labour cost, making the classic parquet look accessible at a more reasonable price point.

Can mosaic oak parquet be sanded and refinished like a standard parquet floor?

Yes. Once the backing has been removed and the floor is sanded and finished, it behaves exactly like any other solid wood parquet floor. It can be re-sanded and refinished multiple times over its lifespan.

What finish works best on mosaic oak parquet?

Lacquer is the most popular choice because it is hard-wearing and easy to clean. If you prefer a more natural look, a hardwax oil is a good alternative, though it requires more frequent maintenance. Staining before the final coat allows the colour of the floor to be adjusted to suit your interior.

Have a similar project? Call us on 020 88309782 or Book a Free Site Visit

Project Overview

This project involved the professional sanding and restoration of an existing wood floor at a property in Paddington, W2. The floor had seen years of daily wear and was in need of attention to bring it back to a quality finish. Our team carried out a full assessment before starting work, checking for any boards that needed attention alongside the main sanding and finishing work.

Before the Work

Before work began, the floor showed typical signs of wear. Surface scratches, dull patches, and general finish deterioration were present. A thorough survey was carried out to plan the correct sanding depth, assess board condition, and choose the most appropriate finish for the space.

Survey photos showing the floor condition before work:

Our Approach

The following services were carried out as part of this project:

• Floorboards - Replacement (incl. materials)
• Floorboards - Sand, Buff & Lacquer
• Furniture Moving
• Gap Filling
• Gap Filling - Pine Slivers
• Staining

The Result

Once the sanding and finishing process was complete, the floor was transformed. The wood grain was opened up and brought back to life, the surface was smooth and even, and the new finish provided lasting protection. The client was left with a floor that looked, and performed, as good as new.

Photos of the completed work:

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does floor sanding take?
Most residential sanding jobs are completed in one to two days, depending on floor size and condition. Lacquering or oiling adds further drying and curing time, which we factor into the job schedule.

Do I need to vacate the property during sanding?
Modern dustless sanding equipment keeps dust to a minimum, but we recommend keeping pets and young children clear of the area during the work. Most clients remain in their property throughout.

How much does floor sanding cost in London?
Prices typically range from £25 to £45 per square metre depending on floor condition, finish type, and any repair work required. Gap filling and board replacement are priced separately if needed.

Have a similar project? Call us on 020 88309782 or Book a Free Site Visit

Project Overview

This project involved the professional sanding and restoration of an existing wood floor at a property in Stanwell, TW19. The floor had seen years of daily wear and was in need of attention to bring it back to a quality finish. Our team carried out a full assessment before starting work, checking for any boards that needed attention alongside the main sanding and finishing work.

Before the Work

Before work began, the floor showed typical signs of wear. Surface scratches, dull patches, and general finish deterioration were present. A thorough survey was carried out to plan the correct sanding depth, assess board condition, and choose the most appropriate finish for the space.

Survey photos showing the floor condition before work:

Our Approach

The following services were carried out as part of this project:

• Engineered - Sand, Buff & Lacquer

The Result

Once the sanding and finishing process was complete, the floor was transformed. The wood grain was opened up and brought back to life, the surface was smooth and even, and the new finish provided lasting protection. The client was left with a floor that looked, and performed, as good as new.

Photos of the completed work:

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does floor sanding take?
Most residential sanding jobs are completed in one to two days, depending on floor size and condition. Lacquering or oiling adds further drying and curing time, which we factor into the job schedule.

Do I need to vacate the property during sanding?
Modern dustless sanding equipment keeps dust to a minimum, but we recommend keeping pets and young children clear of the area during the work. Most clients remain in their property throughout.

How much does floor sanding cost in London?
Prices typically range from £25 to £45 per square metre depending on floor condition, finish type, and any repair work required. Gap filling and board replacement are priced separately if needed.

Have a similar project? Call us on 020 88309782 or Book a Free Site Visit

Project Overview

This project involved the professional sanding and restoration of an existing wood floor at a property in Hackney, N1. The floor had seen years of daily wear and was in need of attention to bring it back to a quality finish. Our team carried out a full assessment before starting work, checking for any boards that needed attention alongside the main sanding and finishing work.

Before the Work

Before work began, the floor showed typical signs of wear. Surface scratches, dull patches, and general finish deterioration were present. A thorough survey was carried out to plan the correct sanding depth, assess board condition, and choose the most appropriate finish for the space.

Survey photos showing the floor condition before work:

Our Approach

The following services were carried out as part of this project:

• Gap Filling
• Hardwood - Sand, Buff & Lacquer
• Staining

The Result

Once the sanding and finishing process was complete, the floor was transformed. The wood grain was opened up and brought back to life, the surface was smooth and even, and the new finish provided lasting protection. The client was left with a floor that looked, and performed, as good as new.

Photos of the completed work:

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does floor sanding take?
Most residential sanding jobs are completed in one to two days, depending on floor size and condition. Lacquering or oiling adds further drying and curing time, which we factor into the job schedule.

Do I need to vacate the property during sanding?
Modern dustless sanding equipment keeps dust to a minimum, but we recommend keeping pets and young children clear of the area during the work. Most clients remain in their property throughout.

How much does floor sanding cost in London?
Prices typically range from £25 to £45 per square metre depending on floor condition, finish type, and any repair work required. Gap filling and board replacement are priced separately if needed.

Have a similar project? Call us on 020 88309782 or Book a Free Site Visit

Project Overview

This project involved the professional sanding and restoration of an existing wood floor at a property in Ealing, W5. The floor had seen years of daily wear and was in need of attention to bring it back to a quality finish. Our team carried out a full assessment before starting work, checking for any boards that needed attention alongside the main sanding and finishing work.

Before the Work

Before work began, the floor showed typical signs of wear. Surface scratches, dull patches, and general finish deterioration were present. A thorough survey was carried out to plan the correct sanding depth, assess board condition, and choose the most appropriate finish for the space.

Our Approach

The following services were carried out as part of this project:

• Floorboard Repairs

The Result

Once the sanding and finishing process was complete, the floor was transformed. The wood grain was opened up and brought back to life, the surface was smooth and even, and the new finish provided lasting protection. The client was left with a floor that looked, and performed, as good as new.

Photos of the completed work:

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does floor sanding take?
Most residential sanding jobs are completed in one to two days, depending on floor size and condition. Lacquering or oiling adds further drying and curing time, which we factor into the job schedule.

Do I need to vacate the property during sanding?
Modern dustless sanding equipment keeps dust to a minimum, but we recommend keeping pets and young children clear of the area during the work. Most clients remain in their property throughout.

How much does floor sanding cost in London?
Prices typically range from £25 to £45 per square metre depending on floor condition, finish type, and any repair work required. Gap filling and board replacement are priced separately if needed.

Have a similar project? Call us on 020 88309782 or Book a Free Site Visit

Project Overview

This hardwood floor sanding, repair, and re-oiling project was completed at a terraced property in Leytonstone, East London. The client had lived in the house for several years and the floor, a solid oak strip floor, had accumulated damage in several areas: a few boards had split along the grain, one had a deep gouge from furniture removal, and the oil finish throughout had become dry and patchy. Rather than replacing the entire floor, we carried out targeted board replacement in the worst-affected areas and then sanded and re-oiled the whole floor to bring everything back to a consistent, good condition. Spot repair plus sanding on a hardwood floor of this type typically costs in the range of £25 to £45 per square metre for the sanding element, with board replacement priced per board.

The Challenge

The key challenge in any spot repair project is making the new boards blend with the old ones. Fresh oak boards will always be paler and brighter than boards that have aged over years in a finished room. The fit-and-forget approach of simply swapping damaged boards and sanding straight over them often leaves the repair area looking obvious for some time. Getting a good colour match requires careful selection of replacement stock, appropriate staining or tinting of the oil finish, and thorough sanding across the whole floor rather than just the repaired patches. The client also wanted the floor to look as natural as possible after the work was done, which meant avoiding a heavy lacquer finish in favour of an oil that would blend the old and new wood tones naturally.

Our Approach

1. Board assessment: We walked the floor and identified each board that needed replacing. In total, five boards were beyond economical repair and were marked for removal.
2. Board removal: The damaged boards were carefully cut out using a circular saw set to the exact board thickness, then removed without disturbing the neighbouring boards.
3. New board fitting: Replacement oak boards selected to match the existing profile were glued and secret-nailed into place, then left to cure before sanding began.
4. Full floor sanding: The entire floor was sanded in sequence: coarse pass to strip the old finish and flatten the surface, medium pass to remove the scratch marks, fine pass to prepare for the oil finish. Sanding all the old and new boards together at this stage is what allows the final finish to read as one uniform surface.
5. Oil application: We applied a hardwax oil tinted slightly amber to help the new boards blend with the aged tone of the original floor. Two coats were applied with a buffing pass between them.
6. Final buff: A final light buff brought the oil to an even sheen across the whole floor.

The Result

The repaired sections blended well with the rest of the floor. The slight tint in the oil helped to even out the colour difference between old and new boards, and within a few months of normal use the whole floor looked consistent. The client was pleased not just with the visual result but also with the cost saving compared to a full replacement, which would have been three to four times the price. The oil finish gives the floor a natural, matt look that suits the character of the house and is easy to maintain with occasional re-oiling of any areas that start to look dry.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do you match replacement floorboards to the existing ones?

We try to source replacement boards in the same wood species, width, and thickness as the originals. Exact matches are not always possible, particularly for older or non-standard boards, but working with the same species and then finishing old and new together minimises the visible difference. Tinted oils or stains can further close the gap in colour.

Is an oil finish as hardwearing as lacquer?

Oil finishes are less resistant to surface scratching than lacquer, but they are much easier to maintain. Scratches in an oiled floor tend to blend in naturally, whereas lacquer scratches show clearly as white marks. Worn areas in an oiled floor can be re-oiled without sanding the whole floor, which makes maintenance straightforward and low-cost.

How often does an oiled hardwood floor need maintenance?

In a normal domestic setting, a full re-oiling is typically needed every three to five years. Between re-oiling, using a suitable wood floor cleaner and a maintenance oil product on heavy-wear areas every few months will extend the time between full treatments considerably.

Have a similar project? Call us on 020 88309782 or Book a Free Site Visit

Project Overview

This engineered wood flooring installation was completed at a flat in Greenwich, South East London. The client had recently purchased the property and wanted to replace the existing old carpet throughout the open-plan living and kitchen area with a real wood floor. Engineered wood was chosen for several practical reasons: the flat was on the ground floor with a concrete subfloor, some areas were below the damp-proof course level, and the client had underfloor heating in the kitchen zone. Engineered wood handles all of these conditions better than solid wood. For a professional supply and fit, clients typically pay between £35 and £60 per square metre.

The Challenge

The concrete subfloor had two complications. First, moisture readings taken with a damp meter showed levels that were slightly above the threshold for direct fitting, so additional damp-proof measures were required before any boards could go down. Second, the floor was not level. There was a gradual slope of about eight millimetres across the room that would have been noticeable once the boards were laid and could have caused joint stress over time. Levelling a concrete floor to the tolerances required for a floating engineered floor is not a quick job, but it is essential for a lasting result.

Our Approach

1. Carpet removal: The existing carpet and underlay were lifted and removed, along with any gripper rods and tack strips.
2. Moisture control: A two-part epoxy damp-proof membrane was applied directly to the concrete and allowed to cure fully. This creates a reliable moisture barrier that will protect the engineered boards for the life of the floor.
3. Levelling: A self-levelling compound was poured across the concrete and spread to bring the floor within two millimetres of level over the two-metre span specified in the engineered floor manufacturer's fitting guidelines. The compound was allowed to cure for 24 hours before any further work proceeded.
4. Acclimatisation: The engineered boards were laid flat in the room for 48 hours to adjust to the room's humidity and temperature before fitting.
5. Underlay: A suitable underlay compatible with the underfloor heating was laid across the concrete. The thermal resistance rating was kept within the limits specified for the heating system.
6. Board installation: The boards were installed using a floating click system in a staggered pattern. Expansion gaps were maintained around the perimeter and at any fixed objects such as pipe runs and island units.
7. Finishing: Matching skirting was fitted to cover the expansion gaps, and colour-matched threshold strips were installed at the kitchen entrance and doorways.

The Result

The finished floor completely transformed the flat. The open-plan space now had a consistent, warm floor surface running from the entrance hallway through the living area and into the kitchen. The boards were clean and level, the joints tight, and the colour, a natural brushed oak, worked well with the client's furniture. The floor also performed well with the underfloor heating, warming up evenly without any creaking or movement at the joints. This is a floor that, properly maintained, should give 25 to 30 years of good service.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why is levelling the subfloor so important before fitting engineered wood?

Engineered boards are rigid, and if they span an uneven subfloor, the joints take the strain. Over time, this can cause the click joints to crack or the boards to develop a slight rocking motion underfoot. Most manufacturers specify a maximum of two millimetres deviation over two metres for their floating floor products.

Is a damp-proof membrane always needed under engineered wood on concrete?

It depends on the moisture readings in the concrete. If readings are within acceptable limits, a standard underlay with an integrated moisture barrier is often sufficient. If moisture levels are elevated, a dedicated epoxy or sheet membrane is necessary. We always test moisture levels before recommending a course of action.

How do you handle expansion gaps around kitchen islands and fixed objects?

The standard approach is to maintain the required expansion gap around all fixed objects and cover it with a suitable trim or threshold strip. In some kitchen installations, the island units are sited on top of the finished floor rather than fixed to the subfloor, which removes the need for a gap around them entirely.

Have a similar project? Call us on 020 88309782 or Book a Free Site Visit

Project Overview

This project involved the professional installation of engineered wood flooring at a property in Greenwich, SE7. The client required a quality floor that would stand up to daily use and complement their interior. Our fitting team assessed the subfloor condition, carried out any necessary preparation work, and fitted the new floor to a high standard.

Before the Work

Prior to installation, the existing floor covering was inspected and the subfloor was prepared to ensure it was flat, dry, and suitable for the new engineered wood. Any existing floor covering was lifted and disposed of cleanly before the fitting work began.

Our Approach

The following services were carried out as part of this project:

• Door Frame Trimming
• Engineered Flooring Installation

The Result

The completed engineered wood installation looked clean and finished throughout. Joins are tight, edges are neat, and the floor sits flat and stable. Beading and threshold strips were fitted where required to complete the job properly. The client was pleased with both the quality of the work and the appearance of the new floor.

Photos of the completed work:

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does engineered wood installation take?
Most fitting jobs are completed within one to two days. Larger areas or more detailed layouts such as herringbone patterns take longer due to the additional cutting and positioning involved.

Do I need underlay?
Yes, underlay is required for most floor types and helps with insulation, sound deadening, and levelling minor subfloor imperfections. We can supply and fit appropriate underlay as part of the installation.

How much does floor fitting cost in London?
Fitting costs typically range from £35 to £60 per square metre depending on floor type and complexity. We provide a full written quote before starting any work.

Have a similar project? Call us on 020 88309782 or Book a Free Site Visit

Project Overview

This project involved the professional sanding and restoration of an existing wood floor at a property in Leytonstone, E11. The floor had seen years of daily wear and was in need of attention to bring it back to a quality finish. Our team carried out a full assessment before starting work, checking for any boards that needed attention alongside the main sanding and finishing work.

Before the Work

Before work began, the floor showed typical signs of wear. Surface scratches, dull patches, and general finish deterioration were present. A thorough survey was carried out to plan the correct sanding depth, assess board condition, and choose the most appropriate finish for the space.

Survey photos showing the floor condition before work:

Our Approach

The following services were carried out as part of this project:

• Floorboards - Fireplace Heart Removal
• Floorboards - Replacement (incl. materials)
• Floorboards - Sand, Buff & Lacquer
• Gap Filling
• Lift & Dispose Hardwood Flooring
• Stairs - Sand & Seal
• Floorboards Installation ( Incl. materials)

The Result

Once the sanding and finishing process was complete, the floor was transformed. The wood grain was opened up and brought back to life, the surface was smooth and even, and the new finish provided lasting protection. The client was left with a floor that looked, and performed, as good as new.

Photos of the completed work:

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does floor sanding take?
Most residential sanding jobs are completed in one to two days, depending on floor size and condition. Lacquering or oiling adds further drying and curing time, which we factor into the job schedule.

Do I need to vacate the property during sanding?
Modern dustless sanding equipment keeps dust to a minimum, but we recommend keeping pets and young children clear of the area during the work. Most clients remain in their property throughout.

How much does floor sanding cost in London?
Prices typically range from £25 to £45 per square metre depending on floor condition, finish type, and any repair work required. Gap filling and board replacement are priced separately if needed.

Have a similar project? Call us on 020 88309782 or Book a Free Site Visit