All Projects Renovations Installations

Project Overview

This project in Buckhurst Hill involved the installation of engineered wood flooring with a quality underlay, using correct preparation and installation procedures throughout. Engineered flooring is one of the most popular choices for residential properties — it offers the look and feel of solid wood with better stability across humidity changes. Fitting typically costs between £35 and £60 per square metre, depending on the floor size and the complexity of the job.

The Challenge

Engineered flooring installation is a process that should be carried out by a professional to achieve the best long-term results. Quality materials and correct installation procedures are both essential. One product used on this project was the Duralay Timbermate Excel Silver Wood Floor and Laminate Underlay, which has good acoustic and thermal properties and is suited to both residential and commercial settings. Selecting the right underlay is part of specifying the job correctly, not an afterthought.

Our Approach

• Subfloor preparation: We started by preparing the subfloor thoroughly — cleaning the surface, checking for level, and removing any debris or old fixings. The subfloor was checked for moisture content before any underlay or flooring was brought in. A dry, clean, level base is the foundation that everything else relies on.
• Underlay installation: The Duralay Timbermate Excel Silver underlay was fitted across the prepared subfloor. This product provides a barrier against moisture rising from below and adds thermal and acoustic benefits. It also takes out minor surface imperfections in the subfloor that could otherwise transmit through to the finished floor.
• Engineered flooring installation: Boards were laid following the manufacturer's instructions, with the correct expansion gaps maintained at walls and fixed obstacles. The installation sequence and starting point were planned before work began to ensure the layout balanced well within the room.
• Acclimation period: The flooring was allowed to acclimate to the room for 24 hours before installation commenced. This allows the boards to adjust to the ambient temperature and humidity, reducing movement after fitting.
• Trims and finishing: Beading, thresholds, and door trims were fitted to complete the job.

The Result

When installing engineered flooring, preparation of the subfloor is the single most important factor. Once the subfloor was clean, level, and within the correct moisture range, the underlay was installed to provide protection and cushioning. Following the manufacturer's instructions at each stage and allowing the floor to settle properly before furniture was moved in meant the Buckhurst Hill client ended up with a floor that will perform well for many years. Engineered wood is a sound long-term choice for most residential properties, and this installation was carried out to the standard that makes it last.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: What is the difference between engineered wood and solid wood flooring?
A: Solid wood is cut from a single piece of timber throughout its full thickness. Engineered wood has a real wood wear layer on the surface bonded to multiple layers of ply or HDF below. This construction makes engineered wood more stable across changes in temperature and humidity, which is why it is often the preferred choice for properties with underfloor heating or concrete subfloors.

Q: Can engineered wood be fitted over underfloor heating?
A: Yes, most engineered wood products are compatible with underfloor heating. The key requirements are that the surface temperature does not exceed 27 degrees Celsius and that the heating system is run at low temperatures for a period before installation to condition the subfloor. We check compatibility with each specific product before fitting.

Q: How long should engineered wood acclimatise before fitting?
A: Manufacturers typically recommend 24 to 48 hours in the room where the floor will be installed. The boards should be left in their packaging or stacked loosely to allow air circulation. Installing without acclimatisation can lead to boards moving or gapping after fitting, particularly if the room temperature or humidity differs significantly from the storage conditions.

Project Overview

This job in Highbury involved a full wood floor renovation covering floorboard replacement, dust-free sanding and lacquer refinishing. The floor had suffered years of hard use — boards were cracked or split beyond repair, the existing finish had worn away in heavy traffic areas, and the surface was dull and scratched throughout. The client wanted a floor that looked consistent again and would hold up for years without constant attention. Our sanding and renovation team carried out a thorough assessment before a single machine was switched on.

The Challenge

Several boards were too far gone to save by sanding alone. When boards are deeply split, cupped or structurally weakened, sanding just thins them down further without removing the underlying issue. The challenge was sourcing replacement boards that matched the existing floor closely enough in width, thickness and species to sit flush and look right once refinished. Colour variation between old and new timber is normal — sanding and staining brings everything together — but getting the physical fit right from the start matters for both stability and appearance. The existing gaps between boards also needed treating before any finishing could begin.

Our Approach

Board replacement: We lifted the damaged boards carefully, numbered them and removed any old adhesive or fixings from the subfloor underneath. New boards sourced from our regular suppliers were cut to length and fitted tight, nailed and glued where required to match the construction of the original floor.

Gap filling: With replacement boards in place, we addressed the gaps elsewhere across the floor. Fine gaps were packed with a mix of natural resin and sawdust collected from the first sanding pass. This mixture dries hard, takes the finish evenly and is barely visible once sanded flush.

Multi-pass sanding: We used a drum sander for the main field, following the grain at all times, with edging machines working the perimeter. Each pass moved to a finer grit, working down from coarse through medium to fine. The result after sanding was a uniformly smooth, open-grained surface ready for finishing.

Lacquer application: Two coats of commercial-grade water-based lacquer were applied with a light abrasion between coats. Lacquer forms a hard film on top of the wood that resists scuffing and moisture, and it enhances the natural colour of the boards without going too orange or yellow. The client chose a satin sheen which suits the character of the room.

The Result

The finished floor looks consistent from end to end. The replaced boards are indistinguishable from the original once the lacquer was down. All gaps are filled, the surface is smooth and the colour is even throughout. Sanding and refinishing typically costs £25 to £45 per square metre depending on the condition of the floor and the number of repairs needed, making it far more economical than replacing the floor altogether. This Highbury project is a good example of what professional renovation can achieve on a floor that most people would write off.

FAQ

How long does a floor like this take from start to finish?
A job of this size — board replacement, gap filling, full sanding and two coats of lacquer — typically takes two to three days. The floor needs to be clear of furniture throughout and we ask that it is left for at least 24 hours after the final coat before heavy use resumes.

Can you always find matching replacement boards?
We stock a range of species and profiles and work with suppliers who carry reclaimed timber. In most cases we get close enough that the difference disappears once the finish is applied. Where an exact match is not possible, selective staining can help bring boards together in colour.

How many times can a hardwood floor be sanded?
Solid hardwood boards can typically be sanded four to eight times over their lifetime, depending on board thickness. Each sanding removes around 1 to 2 mm of timber. Engineered boards have a thinner wear layer, usually 3 to 6 mm, which limits them to two or three sandings. We check board thickness before quoting to confirm whether sanding is viable.

Project Overview

This project involved the full repair and restoration of an original parquet floor inside a listed Old Town House in Woolwich. Carried out as part of an English Heritage project, the brief required us to retain as much of the original material as possible and use seasoned reclaimed timber to replace only what could not be saved. The floor had been in place for many decades and while sections were in reasonable order, other areas had suffered lifting, cracking and loss of individual blocks. The entire floor was also heavily worn and dull, with old wax and grime built up in the joints.

The Challenge

Heritage projects present specific constraints. We could not simply pull up damaged areas and replace with new timber — the character and age of the reclaimed blocks had to be matched. Modern parquet is machine-cut to consistent dimensions, but original parquet from older buildings tends to vary slightly in thickness and size. Finding seasoned reclaimed blocks that matched both the dimensions and the species of the existing floor took time and care. Beyond the sourcing challenge, parquet sanding always requires skill because the blocks run in multiple directions. Sanding against the grain on any run of blocks will leave scratches that are very difficult to remove.

Our Approach

Block repair and reinstatement: We started by going over the entire floor block by block, testing for movement, hollowness and structural failure. Loose blocks were carefully lifted, the adhesive bed cleaned down to bare subfloor, and the blocks reset with an appropriate adhesive. Where blocks were too damaged or missing entirely, seasoned reclaimed timber was cut to fit and bedded in to match the surrounding pattern as closely as possible.

Gap filling and joint cleaning: Original parquet often accumulates old wax, polish residue and grime in the joints over time. We cleaned the joints out before filling where needed with a resin and sawdust mix compatible with the period finish we planned to apply.

Multi-directional sanding: We used a combination of belt sanders and rotary machines suited to parquet work, adjusting direction carefully across each section of the pattern. The floor was taken through several grits from coarse to fine until the surface was consistent and smooth throughout.

Finishing: Given the heritage context, the finish was selected to suit the original character of the floor — a hard wax oil that gives a natural low-sheen appearance without the plastic look of lacquer. This approach also makes future maintenance easier: small areas can be re-oiled without the need to sand back the whole floor.

The Result

The restored floor now reads as a complete and consistent piece of work. The repaired sections blend with the original, the surface is clean and even, and the oil finish gives the blocks a warm, natural tone in keeping with the character of the building. Parquet restoration of this type typically falls in the £70 to £100 per square metre bracket depending on the extent of block repair required. This project stands as a good example of the level of care and patience the work demands.

FAQ

Can any parquet floor be restored, or are there cases where replacement is better?
Most parquet floors can be restored provided the subfloor is structurally sound and a reasonable proportion of the original blocks are intact. Where more than 30 to 40 per cent of blocks are damaged, replacement sometimes makes better sense economically. We always carry out an honest assessment before recommending either route.

Do reclaimed replacement blocks ever stand out after sanding?
With well-matched reclaimed timber, the difference is minimal once sanding and finishing is complete. The age and slight tonal variation in reclaimed blocks can actually help them blend with an original floor better than new timber would.

Is hard wax oil suitable for a high-traffic area in a public building?
Modern hard wax oils are very durable and well suited to heavy use. They penetrate into the wood rather than sitting on top as a film, which means they resist scuffing differently to lacquer. Spot repairs and re-oiling can be done locally if a section becomes worn, without disrupting the whole floor.

Project Overview

This Tottenham project covered floorboard replacement, gap filling, sanding and staining on a hardwood floor that had been heavily worn and badly maintained over many years. Some boards were damaged beyond what sanding could fix, gaps had opened up significantly between boards, and the client wanted a colour change as part of the renovation rather than simply returning the floor to its original tone. The scope required a disciplined sequence of work: get the repairs right before any finishing begins, so the stain goes down evenly across old and new timber alike.

The Challenge

Combining board replacement, gap filling and staining on the same floor introduces a number of variables that need managing carefully. New boards absorb stain differently to aged timber. If the sanding is not consistent across old and new boards, the stain will go on patchy. The gaps in this floor had also grown wide enough that simple resin filling would not hold over time — we needed to use pine slivers for the larger ones, which also need to be sanded flush before staining. Getting all these elements aligned required planning and a steady hand throughout.

Our Approach

Board replacement: Badly damaged boards were lifted and replaced with matching new timber, cut to size and fixed down securely. We selected boards as close in species and profile to the existing floor as our suppliers could provide.

Gap filling: Wide gaps received pine slivers tapped in tight and trimmed flush. Narrower gaps were filled with a resin-sawdust mix. Once the filler cured, the whole floor went through a first sanding pass to level everything out.

Sanding: We worked through three grit levels — coarse, medium and fine. The coarse pass took care of height differences between old and new boards and levelled the dried filler. Medium and fine passes refined the surface to a smooth, consistent finish ready for staining.

Staining and lacquering: The stain was applied by hand in the direction of the grain, working in sections to keep a wet edge. Once the stain had fully dried, two coats of lacquer were applied to lock in the colour and protect the surface. The client opted for a mid-tone walnut stain with a satin finish, which gave the room a noticeably warmer look.

The Result

The floor came out consistent in colour and surface quality across the full area, old and new boards alike. The stain covered the tonal variation between original and replacement timber, and the lacquer added a clean, durable finish. Work of this scope — board replacement, gap filling, sanding and staining — typically sits in the £30 to £45 per square metre range, making it a cost-effective way to give a tired floor a completely new look.

FAQ

Will new boards always show through a stain finish?
With a consistent sanding job and the right stain preparation, new boards blend in well. Fresh timber is more absorbent, so we sometimes apply a pre-conditioner before staining to regulate absorption and get an even result across old and new wood.

Can I choose any stain colour?
We carry a wide range of wood stain tones from light natural shades through to dark ebony. We can also do test patches on a small area of your floor before committing so you can see how the colour looks in your light before the full application begins.

How long should I wait before walking on the floor after staining and lacquering?
We recommend leaving the floor for 24 hours after the final lacquer coat before light foot traffic. For normal furniture and rugs, 48 to 72 hours is better. The lacquer continues to harden for several days after application, so heavy loads should be kept off for at least a week.

Project Overview

This Ealing project centred on a real hardwood floor that had developed several maintenance issues over the years. Floorboards had become loose, gaps had opened up between boards, and the surface finish had worn through in a number of places leaving bare wood exposed to everyday traffic. The client wanted the floor repaired, stabilised and refinished with a hard-wearing lacquer to see it through many more years of use. The job covered board refitting, gap filling, full sanding and two coats of lacquer finish.

The Challenge

Loose boards are a warning sign. Left unfixed, they flex underfoot, which stresses the fixings on neighbouring boards and gradually works them loose too. The main risk with this floor was that the movement had been going on long enough that some boards had started to develop hairline splits at the nail points. We needed to refix the loose boards properly — not just tap them back and hope — while checking the subfloor underneath for any softness or damp that might have contributed to the problem. Gaps between boards that form as a result of board movement also tend to be irregular in width, which makes gap filling a more involved job than on a floor where gaps have opened up through simple seasonal shrinkage.

Our Approach

Board refitting: Loose boards were carefully lifted where necessary, the subfloor checked and cleaned, and the boards refixed using appropriate fixings and adhesive. Where the subfloor showed any softness it was treated and allowed to dry before refitting.

Gap filling: Fine gaps were packed with a resin and sawdust mix. Wider gaps got pine slivers tapped in and trimmed, then the whole lot was sanded flush in the first sanding pass. This step significantly improves the thermal insulation and structural integrity of the floor.

Sanding in stages: We started with a medium-coarse grit to level off the filler and remove the old worn finish, then moved to medium and fine grits for the finishing passes. Edging machines worked around the perimeter while the drum sander handled the main field. The result was a smooth, uniform surface with an open, clean grain.

Lacquer finish: Two coats of hard-wearing water-based lacquer were applied with a light abrasion between coats. Lacquer is the right choice for high-traffic domestic floors — it holds up well against scuffing, is easy to clean and keeps the floor looking good between full renovation cycles.

The Result

All boards are solid and stable, the gaps are filled, and the surface is clean and evenly finished throughout. Lacquer refinishing after sanding and repairs typically costs £28 to £42 per square metre for a domestic floor of this type. This is a good investment given that a well-maintained real wood floor can last a century or more with periodic sanding and refinishing every eight to twelve years.

FAQ

What causes floorboards to become loose over time?
The most common causes are seasonal movement — wood expanding and contracting with changes in humidity — combined with the original fixings working loose over time. Damp from below can also cause boards to cup or lift. We always check the subfloor when refitting boards to rule out underlying moisture issues.

Is it worth filling gaps or should I just sand and lacquer over them?
Filling gaps before sanding is always worth doing. Unfilled gaps let cold draughts through from below, reduce insulation and collect dirt. They can also make the floor feel unstable underfoot. The gap-filling step is not expensive and makes a real difference to how the floor performs.

How often does a lacquered hardwood floor need resanding?
In a normal domestic setting, most hardwood floors benefit from a full sand and refinish every eight to twelve years. Light maintenance — cleaning the lacquer surface and applying a topcoat if it starts to look worn — can extend this considerably. We can advise on the right maintenance routine for your specific floor and finish.

Project Overview

This Hampstead job was a large-scale project running two workstreams in parallel: the installation of a new parquet floor in one section of the property, and the full renovation and refinishing of an existing parquet floor in another. Jobs of this size require careful coordination — both teams need clear ownership of their area, the right materials on site and a shared schedule so that neither workstream holds the other up. The new installation covered subfloor preparation and parquet fitting, while the renovation side included gap filling, sanding and oil finishing. Parquet fitting in Hampstead typically sits at £70 to £100 per square metre all-in.

The Challenge

For the new installation, the subfloor moisture reading came back higher than acceptable for direct parquet fitting. Excess moisture trapped beneath wooden blocks causes them to expand, leading to lifting, creaking and eventual structural failure. This had to be addressed properly before any blocks were laid. On the renovation side, the existing parquet had significant gaps, a worn finish and some areas of localised damage that needed repair before sanding could begin. Working on both simultaneously under one roof meant dust management and scheduling required thought — sanding produces dust that settles on freshly laid floors if the two operations are not properly sequenced.

Our Approach

Subfloor preparation (new installation): A damp-proof membrane was installed across the full area to be covered with new parquet. This acts as a barrier between the subfloor and the timber, preventing moisture migration. Once the membrane was in place and moisture readings confirmed acceptable, we laid a plywood substrate over the top to provide a firm, level, clean base.

Parquet fitting: Blocks were laid in the agreed herringbone pattern, working out from the centre line of each room. Each block was checked for level as it went down and tapped in tight before fixing. Parquet installation is methodical, time-consuming work — the precision of the layout at the start determines the quality of the finished pattern. Flooring accessories were fitted once the main field was complete.

Renovation of existing parquet: The second team tackled gap filling first — wide gaps received pine slivers, fine gaps a resin mix — followed by a full sanding programme using equipment suited to multi-directional parquet work. The floor was then oil finished, giving a natural, low-sheen result that suits older parquet well and is straightforward to maintain.

The Result

Both areas of the project were completed on schedule. The new parquet floor has a clean, precise pattern and a durable lacquer finish. The renovated parquet looks and feels in excellent condition, with the oil finish bringing out the natural warmth of the original timber. Running two workstreams on a job of this size requires experience and clear team organisation — it is not the kind of project to hand to a single operator working alone.

FAQ

Why does parquet installation cost more than laying standard strip flooring?
Parquet requires significantly more time per square metre because each block is individually placed and aligned to create the pattern. There is very little room for error — a block out of square affects the whole run. The material costs are also higher. As a rough guide, parquet fitting in London typically starts at £70 per square metre and can reach £100 or more for complex patterns or difficult subfloor conditions.

How long does a parquet floor take to install?
A room of around 30 to 40 square metres with straightforward subfloor conditions will take a skilled team two to three days to prepare, lay and finish. Larger or more complex projects take longer. We give realistic timelines when quoting and stick to them.

Can oil and lacquer finishes both be used on parquet?
Yes. Lacquer forms a hard surface film and is very durable, making it a good choice for areas with heavy foot traffic. Oil penetrates into the wood and gives a more natural look. Both are suitable for parquet. The trade-off is that lacquer is harder to spot-repair if it gets scuffed, while oil can usually be touched up locally without needing to re-sand the full floor.

Project Overview

This Harrow project involved the full installation of a new parquet floor, including subfloor preparation, parquet block fitting, sanding of the newly laid surface and application of a lacquer finish, along with the installation of matching flooring accessories. The client had chosen parquet for the elegance of the pattern and wanted a finish that would last for years without constant upkeep. Jobs like this sit at the higher end of wood flooring work in terms of skill required, and the results reflect that when the installation is done properly. Parquet fitting including sanding and lacquering typically runs from £70 to £100 per square metre in London.

The Challenge

Parquet blocks are small, which makes getting the pattern right from the outset critical. Any error in the initial layout — a starting line that is slightly off square, blocks that are not fully seated — compounds as the pattern extends across the room. The subfloor also needed attention before fitting could begin. Moisture content was checked and confirmed satisfactory, but the surface needed levelling and cleaning before we were prepared to lay on top of it. Installing parquet onto a subfloor that is not properly prepared shortens the life of the floor and causes problems with movement and gaps.

Our Approach

Subfloor assessment and preparation: We measured moisture levels in the subfloor and checked for level across the whole area. Minor high spots were ground down and low spots filled before we considered the base ready. Cleanliness matters too — any grit or debris left under the blocks will affect their adhesion over time.

Laying the parquet: Working from a centre line set out accurately across the room, we began fitting blocks in the herringbone pattern, checking alignment constantly as the pattern built outward. Each block was bedded down with the correct adhesive and tapped firmly into place. Cut blocks at the edges were measured and cut individually for a neat fit against the skirting.

Sanding the new floor: Newly laid parquet always benefits from a light sanding before finishing. This removes any minor height variation between adjacent blocks and opens the grain for the lacquer to bond to. We used a combination of belt and random orbital sanders suited to the herringbone pattern, finishing with a fine grit for a clean, smooth surface.

Lacquering and accessories: Two coats of hard-wearing lacquer were applied, with light abrading between coats. Matching threshold strips and beading were fitted to complete the installation.

The Result

The finished floor is level, tight-jointed and well-finished, with a clean herringbone pattern throughout and a durable lacquer coat that should require no major attention for several years. The accessories give a clean border at the edges and the threshold strip between rooms completes the job properly. This Harrow installation is typical of the standard we aim for on every parquet project.

FAQ

What type of subfloor is needed for parquet?
Parquet can be laid over concrete or timber subfloors provided they meet the required standards for flatness, moisture content and cleanliness. Concrete subfloors must have an effective damp-proof membrane. Timber subfloors need to be firm and level, with no bounce or flex. We assess subfloor condition as part of every pre-installation visit.

How do I maintain a lacquered parquet floor?
Regular sweeping and occasional damp mopping with a wood-safe cleaner is enough for day-to-day maintenance. Avoid excess water and harsh detergents. If the lacquer becomes dull in high-traffic areas, a light buff and topcoat can restore it without the need for a full sand. Most lacquered parquet floors need a full sand and refinish every ten to fifteen years in normal use.

Can parquet be fitted in kitchens or bathrooms?
Parquet and solid wood generally are not recommended for rooms with high or variable moisture levels such as bathrooms. Kitchens can work provided ventilation is good and the floor is not subject to standing water. Engineered parquet is more tolerant of humidity than solid wood. We advise on the best choice for your specific room conditions when quoting.

Project Overview

This Wandsworth job involved fitting a new parquet floor from scratch, including full subfloor preparation and the installation of finishing accessories. The client had selected a traditional herringbone parquet pattern in solid hardwood and wanted a result that would add genuine character to the room without looking like it had been rushed in. Parquet is one of the most time-intensive floor coverings to install correctly, and this project gave us the opportunity to demonstrate what a well-planned and carefully executed installation looks like. Parquet fitting in south-west London typically runs between £70 and £100 per square metre depending on pattern complexity and subfloor condition.

The Challenge

Achieving a truly symmetrical parquet pattern in a room that is not perfectly square requires careful planning before the first block is laid. The eye picks up asymmetry quickly — cut blocks at one end noticeably larger or smaller than those at the other end, or a pattern that runs visibly off-plumb. Setting out takes time but it is time well spent. The subfloor also required preparation. Parquet blocks need a solid, dry, flat base. Any movement or flexing in the subfloor will eventually work blocks loose or cause them to click when walked on.

Our Approach

Subfloor preparation: Moisture readings were taken across the subfloor and confirmed as satisfactory. The surface was swept clean and checked for level. Minor variations were addressed before any blocks were laid.

Setting out: We established a centre line across the room and dry-laid a run of blocks to check the cut sizes at each end before any adhesive was used. Adjustments were made to the starting position until the layout was balanced. This step is often skipped by inexperienced fitters and is one of the key differences between a professional installation and one that looks off.

Block fitting: Blocks were laid in the herringbone pattern working out from the centre line. Each block was pressed firmly into the adhesive, tapped tight with a rubber mallet and checked for level. We worked in sections to maintain a manageable open time for the adhesive.

Accessories and finishing: Once the main field was complete and the adhesive had cured, threshold strips and matching beading were fitted around the perimeter to complete the installation. These details finish the job properly and protect the expansion gap at the edges.

The Result

The finished parquet floor in this Wandsworth home has a clean, balanced pattern that sits evenly from wall to wall. The blocks are tight, the adhesion is solid and the accessories are fitted neatly. A well-installed parquet floor is a long-term asset — maintained properly it will outlast most other floor coverings by decades. This project illustrates why experience and setting out care matter so much with parquet work.

FAQ

What is the difference between engineered and solid parquet?
Solid parquet blocks are made from a single piece of hardwood and can be sanded multiple times over their lifetime. Engineered parquet has a real hardwood top layer bonded to a plywood core, making it more stable in rooms with variable humidity. Both are available in a wide range of species and patterns. We advise on the most suitable option based on your subfloor type and room conditions.

How long after fitting can we walk on the parquet?
We recommend staying off the newly laid floor for at least 24 hours to allow the adhesive to cure fully. Light foot traffic is fine after that, but we suggest keeping furniture off for 48 to 72 hours. Where the floor is also being sanded and lacquered after fitting, normal use can resume 24 hours after the final coat.

Is parquet suitable for underfloor heating?
Yes, engineered parquet works well with underfloor heating. Solid parquet can also be compatible but requires more careful acclimatisation and system management to keep the temperature variation within limits. We can advise on suitable timber species and adhesive types for heated subfloors when quoting.

Project Overview

This project at a residential property in Elephant and Castle covered the sanding and refinishing of an engineered wood floor and a wooden staircase. Both had been in daily use for several years and were showing the expected signs of wear — the lacquer had dulled and worn through in high-traffic areas, the stairs were scuffed on the treads and nosings, and the overall colour had faded and greyed. The client wanted both surfaces looking consistent and fresh again without the disruption and expense of replacing either. Sanding and refinishing an engineered floor and stairs in London typically costs between £25 and £40 per square metre equivalent, making it a practical option at this stage of wear.

The Challenge

Engineered wood has a real hardwood wear layer on top, but that layer is thinner than on solid boards — typically 3 to 6 mm depending on the product. This limits how aggressively you can sand. Too coarse a grit or too many passes in any one area risks cutting through the wear layer into the plywood beneath, at which point the board needs replacing rather than refinishing. The stairs presented a different challenge: treads, risers and nosings all need different sanding approaches, and the detailing around spindles and stringer boards requires hand tools and care. Getting a consistent finish across both surfaces — flat floor and stair profile — demands good equipment and technique.

Our Approach

Inspection and assessment: Before starting, we checked the wear layer thickness on the engineered boards and confirmed there was enough material to sand. The stairs were checked for any loose treads or fixings, which were tightened before sanding began.

Engineered floor sanding: We used a random orbital sander rather than a heavy drum sander on the engineered floor to avoid removing too much material in a single pass. Working from medium to fine grit, the old finish and surface marks were removed evenly across the whole area. Edging tools worked the perimeter and corners.

Stair sanding: Treads were sanded along the grain with a detail sander, paying particular attention to the nosings where wear was heaviest. Risers and the areas around spindles were done by hand with appropriate grit papers for a clean result into every corner.

Lacquering both surfaces: Two coats of hard-wearing water-based lacquer were applied to the floor with light abrading between coats. The same lacquer was used on the stairs for a consistent colour and sheen level across both surfaces. The result is a fresh, durable finish with no visible join between floor and staircase.

The Result

Both the engineered floor and the wooden stairs came out looking clean, consistent and well-protected. The colour is even throughout and the satin lacquer gives a smart but not overly shiny appearance. Regular sanding and refinishing at intervals of around eight to ten years keeps engineered floors and stairs in good condition and extends their useful life considerably. This Elephant and Castle project shows what a professional treatment can achieve without any replacement work.

FAQ

How many times can an engineered wood floor be sanded?
This depends on the thickness of the wear layer. A 4 mm wear layer can typically be sanded twice, while a 6 mm layer may allow three or four sandings. We always check this before starting — if the wear layer is too thin, we will tell you rather than proceed and risk damaging the floor.

Can stairs be sanded and lacquered to the same standard as a flat floor?
Yes, with the right tools and enough time. Stairs take longer per square metre than flat floor because of the profiled edges and the detailing around spindles. The result is worth the effort — a well-finished staircase makes a significant difference to the look of a hallway.

Does lacquering stairs make them slippery?
A satin or matt lacquer finish provides reasonable grip underfoot. If slip resistance is a concern — particularly on stairs used by older family members or young children — we can add a small amount of anti-slip additive to the final coat, which is barely visible but reduces the risk of slipping.

Project Overview

This job in Weston Green covered a hardwood floor in need of repair, gap filling, sanding and refinishing. The floor had been in the property for many years and while the bones of it were good — solid hardwood boards in a sound structural state — it had picked up the typical catalogue of issues that come with age and heavy use. The finish had worn through, gaps had opened up between boards, and a small number of boards had localised damage. The client wanted the floor brought back to a good functional condition and re-finished to protect it for years ahead. Sanding and refinishing of this type typically costs £25 to £42 per square metre depending on the repairs needed.

The Challenge

Hardwood floors that have been in place for many years often have a mix of issues that need addressing in the correct order. You cannot sand first and repair afterwards — filler applied to a sanded surface will not bond as well, and any board replacement done after sanding may leave the new board slightly higher than its neighbours, causing a visible ridge. The discipline of the job is in sequencing the work correctly: repairs first, then gap fill, then sand, then finish. Rushing any of these steps or doing them out of order affects the final result. The gaps in this floor also varied in width, which meant selecting the right filling method for each section rather than using one approach throughout.

Our Approach

Initial inspection and repairs: We went over the floor systematically, testing for loose boards, soft spots and structural damage. Boards with localised damage that was too deep for sanding to cure were replaced with matching timber. Any soft spots or movement in the subfloor were addressed before the replacement boards went in.

Gap filling: Narrow gaps between boards were packed with a natural resin and sawdust mix that dries hard and takes the final finish evenly. Wider gaps received pine slivers tapped in tight before the resin mix was applied over the top. Once the filler had cured fully it was sanded flush with the surrounding boards.

Sanding programme: The full floor was sanded in three passes — coarse to remove the old finish and level the repaired areas, medium to refine the surface, fine for the finishing pass. We worked with the grain throughout. The edges and corners were done with detail equipment to match the flatness of the main field.

Finishing: The client opted for a hard-wearing oil finish rather than lacquer, giving the floor a natural, close-to-the-wood appearance. Oil finishes nourish the timber and are easier to maintain locally if small areas become worn — a spot re-oil can be done without sanding back the whole floor.

The Result

The floor came out clean, stable and evenly finished from wall to wall. The oil gave the hardwood a warm, natural tone and the surface is now properly protected against everyday traffic and spills. This Weston Green project is a good example of what professional maintenance can do for a hardwood floor that has been left without professional attention for too long — the same floor could have needed full replacement in another few years without intervention.

FAQ

What is the difference between an oil finish and a lacquer finish?
Lacquer forms a hard protective film on top of the wood. It is very durable but when it gets scratched or worn it shows clearly and typically needs a full sand to repair. Oil penetrates into the wood fibres and does not sit as a surface film. It gives a more natural look and small worn or scratched areas can often be spot-treated with additional oil without any sanding required. Both options are suitable for hardwood floors — choice depends on the level of traffic and how you want the floor to look and feel.

How long does oil take to dry before we can use the room?
Most hard wax oils are touch-dry within four to six hours and ready for light foot traffic after 24 hours. The floor continues to cure for several days. We recommend keeping rugs and furniture off for at least 48 to 72 hours and avoiding heavy loads for a week.

How do I maintain an oiled hardwood floor?
Regular sweeping and occasional mopping with a wood-safe, pH-neutral cleaner is sufficient for day-to-day care. Every year or two, a maintenance oil can be applied to refresh the protection — this is a simple process that does not require any sanding and can be done yourself with the right product. We advise on suitable maintenance products when we complete the job.