All Projects Renovations Installations

Project Overview

This project at St Luke Church in Hampstead, NW3, involved the full restoration of a parquet floor that had been heavily damaged by poor previous work — the floor had been sanded by cowboy operators who had left scratches running against the grain throughout. In addition to the surface damage, the finish had been applied poorly and was peeling in places. The brief was to remove all surface damage, apply a fresh stain in the colour the client required, and finish with a commercial-grade lacquer capable of withstanding the heavy foot traffic typical of a church. Parquet sanding and staining of this complexity typically sits at £30 to £50 per square metre.

The Challenge

Correcting damage caused by sanding against the grain on a parquet floor is one of the more demanding tasks in floor renovation. When a belt sander runs across the face of parquet blocks in the wrong direction it tears the grain fibres rather than cutting them cleanly, leaving visible scratches that must be removed with careful sanding across multiple grit levels. The challenge is doing this without damaging the blocks further or removing too much material. Commercial lacquer over a stained floor also needs careful preparation — if the stain is not fully dry and evenly applied before the first lacquer coat, the finish will look patchy and uneven. Timing and patience matter on a job like this.

Our Approach

Assessment: Before any machines were started we went over the floor by hand, assessing the depth of the grain damage from the previous sanding. The worst-affected areas were marked so we could give them additional attention in the early passes.

Multi-direction sanding: We used a combination of disc sanders and belt sanders sized for parquet work, adjusted carefully for the pattern direction in each section of the floor. Multiple passes starting at a coarse grit were needed to remove the previous damage, working progressively finer until the surface was consistent. Gap filling was carried out between sanding passes — resin and sawdust for the narrower gaps across the floor.

Staining: Once the surface was clean, smooth and uniformly prepared, the stain was applied by hand in sections, keeping a wet edge and working consistently in the direction of the grain in each block run. The client's chosen colour was applied evenly and left to dry fully before any lacquer was applied.

Commercial-grade lacquering: Three coats of commercial lacquer were applied with sanding between each coat. Commercial lacquer is specified in high-traffic environments such as churches because it is significantly harder and more resistant to scuffing than standard domestic lacquer. The result is a finish that will hold up under regular heavy use.

The Result

The finished floor looks entirely different from how it arrived with us. All grain damage from the previous poor work has been removed, the stain colour is even throughout and the commercial lacquer gives the surface a clean, uniform sheen. The church has a floor that will perform well in daily use for years without needing further professional attention beyond routine cleaning.

FAQ

Can damage caused by sanding against the grain always be fixed?
In most cases, yes — provided the damage does not go too deep into the block. Grain-direction scratches left by incorrect sanding need to be cut back to below the scratch level, which takes material. If the blocks are thick enough this is achievable. We assess this before quoting to confirm that remediation is viable rather than raising false expectations.

Is commercial lacquer noticeably different in appearance to domestic lacquer?
Commercial lacquer is harder and more resistant to abrasion, but visually it is very similar to a standard hard-wearing domestic lacquer. Both are available in matt, satin and gloss sheens. The main difference is durability under very heavy traffic — commercial formulas are specified precisely because they hold up better in venues like churches, schools and offices.

How should a stained and lacquered floor be cleaned without damaging the finish?
A soft broom or vacuum for dry debris, followed by occasional damp mopping with a mild wood-safe cleaner, is all that is needed. Avoid solvent-based cleaners, bleach or excessive water. For institutional settings, we can recommend suitable commercial cleaning products compatible with the lacquer we have applied.

Project Overview

This Barnet project brought together several different trades under one visit: floorboard replacement for the most damaged sections of a hardwood floor, gap filling throughout, full sanding and staining of the floor, plus re-sanding and staining of the wooden staircase to match. When a client wants a complete renovation of both floor and stairs in one go, careful sequencing and clear communication between the team working on each area are important. The goal here was a consistent stain colour across both surfaces and a finished result that looked purposeful rather than patched. Sanding and staining projects of this scale in North London typically run from £30 to £45 per square metre.

The Challenge

The main challenge was achieving a consistent stain result across surfaces in different conditions. Some sections of the floor had very worn boards, some had new replacement boards, and the staircase had a different finish depth and grain profile to the floor. New boards absorb stain at a different rate to aged timber. Stair nosings and treads also take stain differently to flat boards. Getting a uniform colour result across all these different surfaces requires preparation work at each stage — pre-conditioning in some areas, test patches before committing — rather than simply applying stain and hoping for the best.

Our Approach

Board replacement: Boards too far gone for sanding to help were lifted and replaced with matching timber. We sourced boards close in species, width and thickness to the existing floor to minimise visible joins. Where small gaps remained at the joints with surrounding boards after fitting, these were addressed in the gap-filling stage.

Gap filling: All gaps across the floor — between original boards and around the replacements — were filled with a resin and sawdust mix appropriate to the gap width. Wider gaps received pine slivers first. The stairs were also checked for loose treads and any flexing was fixed before sanding began.

Sanding floor and stairs: The floor was sanded in three passes from coarse through to fine, following the grain throughout. The stairs were sanded on treads, risers and nosings, with hand tools used where machine access was limited around spindles and the stringer. A consistent fine-grit finish across both surfaces was achieved before any stain was applied.

Staining and finishing: A mid-tone stain was applied to floor and stairs in careful sequence, allowing the stain to cure fully between coats. Two coats of lacquer were applied over the stained surfaces to protect the colour and give a durable finish in line with what a busy household needs.

The Result

The floor and stairs came out with a consistent colour and finish throughout. The new replacement boards are not distinguishable from the originals under the stain and lacquer. The client now has a cohesive look from the hallway floor up the staircase, achieved within a single project visit rather than spreading work across multiple contractor visits. This Barnet renovation shows what is achievable when floor and stair work is planned and executed as a single coordinated job.

FAQ

Is it better to do the floor and stairs in one visit or separately?
Doing both together is almost always better. You get a consistent finish across both surfaces because they are sanded and stained in the same session with the same materials. It also reduces the disruption to the household — one period of upheaval rather than two. The sequencing needs care (stairs typically after the floor for access reasons) but a well-organised team handles this without difficulty.

Can the stain colour be changed entirely from the original floor colour?
Yes. Sanding takes the floor back to bare wood, at which point any stain colour can be applied. Going significantly lighter than the original colour is more straightforward than going darker, but in both cases we do test patches to confirm the result before committing to the full floor.

How long will the stain and lacquer last on a busy staircase?
Staircases are high-traffic areas and lacquer on treads and nosings will wear faster than on a flat floor. In a busy household, expect the stair finish to need a refresh every five to seven years. The floor in normal domestic use will typically last ten to twelve years before needing re-sanding. We advise on a maintenance schedule when completing the job.

Project Overview

This Mayfair project covered two distinct lines of work: the installation of a new parquet floor in one area and the full renovation and refinishing of an existing parquet floor in another. Both workstreams ran under the same contract for the same client, allowing us to coordinate materials, timing and finish standards across the whole job. Mayfair properties have high expectations — the quality of both the installation and the renovation needed to be to the same standard. Parquet fitting in central London including lacquering typically runs from £70 to £100 per square metre, with renovation of existing parquet starting at around £30 to £50 per square metre depending on condition.

The Challenge

Parquet in a Mayfair setting carries extra pressure on quality. The installation needed to produce a pattern that was geometrically precise from wall to wall, with cut blocks at the perimeter that were even and looked deliberate rather than makeshift. The renovation side of the project brought its own demands: the existing floor had gaps between blocks that needed filling carefully, the old lacquer had a pronounced orange tint that the client wanted to move away from with a fresh, clearer finish, and some areas had been damaged by water at some point, leaving slight cupping on individual blocks. Managing all of this while maintaining a tidy site in a central London residential property required planning and experience.

Our Approach

Subfloor preparation and plywood underlayment: For the new installation area, the subfloor was prepared to the required flatness and moisture tolerance. A plywood underlayment was laid over the prepared subfloor before the parquet blocks, providing a firm, level, insulated base and adding a degree of cushioning underfoot.

New parquet installation: Blocks were laid working out from the centre line in the agreed herringbone pattern. Alignment was checked constantly throughout and the cut blocks at the perimeter were measured and cut individually for accuracy. Flooring accessories — threshold bars and perimeter beading — were fitted to complete the installation.

Renovation of existing parquet: Gap filling came first: a resin and sawdust mix for the finer joints, pine slivers where gaps had opened wider. The slightly cupped blocks were inspected — none were so severely affected that replacement was necessary, and careful sanding brought them level. The full floor was sanded through coarse, medium and fine grits. A water-based lacquer was selected for the finishing coat to avoid the yellow tint associated with older oil-based lacquers. Two coats were applied with a light abrasion between coats.

The Result

Both areas of the project finished to a high standard. The new parquet installation sits level and tight, with a clean pattern and consistent lacquer finish. The renovated section has had its gaps filled, its cupped blocks flattened and its finish renewed to a clear, fresh satin. The two areas are consistent in colour and sheen level, which was important given that both are visible from the same room. This Mayfair project is a good example of what coordinated parquet installation and renovation work looks like when executed properly.

FAQ

Why is parquet installation more expensive per square metre than other wood flooring?
The individual blocks need to be laid one at a time, aligned precisely to build the pattern, and the setting-out stage at the start requires experience to get right. Compare this to laying long boards, where the process is significantly faster. The material costs can also be higher depending on the species and block quality. You are paying for craftsmanship that shows in the finished result.

Can slightly cupped parquet blocks be sanded flat without replacing them?
In most cases, yes. Light cupping — where the edges of a block have lifted slightly — can be taken back down with careful sanding. Severe cupping, or blocks that are structurally compromised, are better replaced. We assess this on inspection and advise honestly on the most cost-effective approach.

How do you avoid the yellow tint that old lacquer leaves on parquet?
Modern water-based lacquers are formulated to be clear with minimal colour cast. They are also harder and more resistant to UV yellowing over time than traditional oil-based products. If you have an existing oil-based lacquer that has yellowed and want a clearer finish, a full sand to bare wood followed by water-based lacquer will make a significant difference to the final colour.

Project Overview

This Norbury job covered the repair, gap filling, full sanding and oil finishing of a hardwood floor and wooden staircase. The floor had a number of boards that were too worn and distressed to save through sanding alone, wide gaps throughout, and a finish that had worn through to bare wood in the heaviest traffic areas. The stairs were in a similar state — scuffed treads, peeling finish and a general air of tiredness. Rather than replace either, the client chose professional renovation, which was the right call: solid hardwood floors and staircases of this quality are worth saving. Sanding and oil finishing of this scope typically runs at £28 to £40 per square metre.

The Challenge

When boards are too far gone for sanding to help, selecting appropriate replacements requires care. Width and thickness need to match exactly — a board that is even slightly thicker than its neighbours will create a trip hazard and will be immediately noticeable. Getting the species and colour close enough that the replacement boards disappear under the finish is also important, though this is easier to manage with stain or oil than with lacquer, which tends to be more transparent. The wide gaps in this floor needed pine slivers rather than resin alone, and the stairs had areas around the spindles and nosings where hand tools were the only practical option.

Our Approach

Board replacement: Boards identified during inspection as beyond repair were lifted and replaced with closely matched hardwood cut to the correct length, width and thickness. All replacements were fitted and fixed down securely before any sanding began.

Gap filling: Wide gaps were filled with pine slivers tapped in and trimmed flush, then covered with a resin and sawdust mix for a tight, even joint. Narrower gaps received the resin mix alone. Once the filler had cured, it was sanded flush in the first sanding pass.

Sanding floor and stairs: The floor was sanded through three grit levels, following the grain throughout. The staircase was tackled separately: drum sander on the larger treads, detail machines and hand tools for nosings, risers and the areas around spindles. Getting the stairs consistent with the floor surface quality takes time but is necessary for a uniform finish result.

Oil finishing: A hard-wearing penetrating oil was applied to both floor and stairs. Oil finishes give a natural close-to-the-wood look that suits solid hardwood well, and they allow individual sections to be re-oiled if they become worn without needing to sand the whole surface. This is particularly useful for stairs where one or two treads may wear faster than the rest.

The Result

The floor and stairs both came out looking consistent in colour and texture, with all gaps filled, all surface damage removed and a fresh oil finish throughout. The replacement boards are barely distinguishable from the originals. This Norbury project is a clear example of what professional maintenance can achieve on a hardwood floor and staircase that had been left without professional care for too long.

FAQ

When is it not worth repairing boards and better to replace the floor entirely?
If more than around 30 to 40 per cent of the boards are damaged or the subfloor beneath has suffered serious structural issues, replacement may work out more cost-effective than repair. For most floors we see, however, repair and renovation is perfectly viable and far cheaper than replacement. We give an honest assessment at the quoting stage.

How are pine slivers used in gap filling and do they show?
Pine slivers are thin wedges of timber tapped into wide gaps to fill them structurally. They are then sanded flush and covered with the resin and sawdust mix used for finer gaps. Once sanded and finished, they are generally invisible to the eye. The result is a tight, stable floor without draught gaps.

How often should a hardwood floor and staircase be professionally maintained?
In normal domestic use, a full sand and refinish every eight to twelve years is a reasonable guide. Stairs can need more frequent attention because treads are essentially point-loaded with every step. Oil finishes allow spot maintenance more easily than lacquer, which extends the time between full sandings. We advise on the right maintenance schedule for your specific floor and level of use when completing a job.

Project Overview

This Fulham project covered the repair, gap filling, sanding and refinishing of a hardwood floor and a wooden staircase in a residential property. The floor had developed gaps and some boards had suffered damage that needed addressing before any finishing work could begin. The staircase was due for a full refresh — treads were scuffed, the finish had peeled away on the nosings and the handrail area was worn. The client wanted the floor finished with a high-quality lacquer and the staircase treated to the same standard with a durable sealant suited to heavy daily traffic. Work of this scope in Fulham and the surrounding areas typically costs between £28 and £42 per square metre.

The Challenge

Combining floor and stair renovation in one project is logical and cost-effective but it requires careful planning. The staircase is the access route for the team, so the floor and stairs cannot simply be sanded and finished at the same time — the sequence must be managed so that the team can still move around the property without walking on wet finish. Boards with damage beyond repair also needed sourcing and replacing before sanding, and the range of finish conditions across the floor — some areas very worn, others in better shape — meant the coarse sanding pass needed care to avoid taking too much material from the better-preserved sections while still removing the damage in the worst areas.

Our Approach

Board repair and replacement: Boards that were structurally damaged or too worn for sanding to cure were replaced with closely matched hardwood. Loose boards elsewhere were refixed. All repair work was completed and inspected before sanding began.

Gap filling: Gaps across the floor were filled in two stages: pine slivers where gaps were wide, resin and sawdust mix for the finer ones. Once the filler had fully cured, it was taken back flush with the surrounding boards in the first sanding pass.

Sanding: The floor was sanded through three grits — coarse, medium, fine. Care was taken to follow the grain throughout and to blend the transitions between repaired and original sections. The staircase was sanded after the floor, with the team using a combination of portable machines and hand tools to cover treads, risers and nosings thoroughly.

Finishing: The floor received two coats of a hard-wearing water-based lacquer with a light abrasion between coats. The staircase was finished with a purpose-formulated sealant appropriate for high-traffic stair use. Both finishes were applied in a consistent satin sheen for a cohesive look from floor to staircase.

The Result

Both the floor and the staircase came out looking clean, repaired and well-protected. All gaps are filled, the surface is smooth and even, and the lacquer gives a durable finish that will hold up for years under normal household traffic. The stair sealant is appropriately hard-wearing for what is genuinely one of the most demanding surfaces in a domestic property. This Fulham job illustrates the value of tackling floor and stair renovation as a single coordinated project.

FAQ

What is the best finish for a wooden staircase?
A purpose-mixed floor lacquer or sealant with a high solids content is the best choice for stairs. The finish needs to be hard enough to withstand concentrated point loads from foot traffic without chipping or peeling. We advise against standard wall or furniture varnishes on stairs as they are not formulated for this level of use and tend to peel away at the nosings within months.

Can a staircase be sanded if it has spindles and a newel post in the way?
Yes. Machine access is limited around spindles, but this is standard on all staircase sanding jobs. Detail machines and hand tools are used in the areas where a larger machine cannot reach. The result is the same quality of surface — it simply takes longer per tread than a flat floor area does.

How long does the whole floor and staircase project take?
A project covering a mid-sized floor plus a full staircase, including board replacement, gap filling, sanding and two coats of finish, typically takes three to four days. The property needs to be accessible throughout and we ask that the floor and stairs are left clear for at least 24 hours after the final finish coat before normal use resumes.

Project Overview

This Streatham project involved gap filling, full sanding and lacquering of a parquet floor that had become worn and dull after years of use. The floor itself was structurally sound — no loose or damaged blocks — but the finish had gone, the gaps between blocks had widened and the surface was visibly tired. The brief was to restore the floor to a good condition with a hard-wearing lacquer finish that would protect it for years without requiring ongoing specialist attention. Parquet sanding and lacquering in South London typically runs from £28 to £45 per square metre depending on the extent of gap filling required and the number of coats needed.

The Challenge

Sanding parquet correctly is more involved than sanding a straight-run plank floor. In a standard herringbone or basket-weave layout the blocks run in at least two directions, sometimes more. Running a belt sander along just one axis will sand cleanly with the grain on some blocks while cutting against the grain on others. Against-grain sanding leaves visible scratches that are extremely difficult to remove without taking the floor back down to bare wood again. The technique for parquet sanding requires using disc or planetary orbital machines that can work across multiple grain directions simultaneously, combined with careful passes along specific block runs for the final fine-grit stage. Getting this right demands experience and the right equipment.

Our Approach

Gap filling: We started by going over the full floor, checking block adhesion and assessing gaps. All blocks were solid and well-bonded, so no repair work was needed before filling. Fine gaps between blocks were filled with a resin and sawdust mix compatible with the species of timber. This mixture was pressed in firmly, levelled off flush and allowed to cure fully before any sanding began.

Sanding: We used a planetary orbital sander for the first passes to cut through the old finish and level the dried filler without risking against-grain damage. Once the bulk of the old finish was removed, careful belt sander passes along specific block run directions were used for the medium-grit stage. The floor was finished with a fine-grit pass using a random orbital for a smooth, clean surface throughout. Edge work and corners were done with detail equipment to match the quality of the main field.

Lacquering: Two coats of hard-wearing water-based lacquer were applied with a light sanding between coats. The client chose a satin sheen, which gives the parquet pattern good visual clarity without the high-gloss look that can make older parquet feel overly formal. The lacquer we used is formulated for residential floors with a high hardness rating, so it holds up well under normal daily traffic.

The Result

The finished floor looks clean, consistent and considerably more alive than when we started. The gaps are filled, the surface is smooth, the pattern reads clearly under the satin lacquer and the whole floor now has proper protection against daily wear. This Streatham parquet project shows what a difference professional sanding and lacquering can make to a floor that has simply been left too long without attention.

FAQ

How do I know whether my parquet floor needs sanding or just a topcoat of lacquer?
If the existing lacquer is still generally intact and the floor just looks dull, a thorough clean and a maintenance topcoat may be sufficient. If the lacquer has worn through to bare wood in traffic areas, or the surface is scratched below the finish layer, a full sand is needed before any new lacquer will bond and perform correctly. We can advise after a brief inspection.

Is it possible to change the sheen level when refinishing parquet?
Yes. When the floor is sanded back to bare wood, the existing sheen level is removed entirely. You can then choose any sheen from matt through to full gloss for the new finish. We carry a full range and can show you samples before we begin.

How often should parquet be professionally sanded?
In a normal domestic property with regular cleaning, most parquet floors benefit from a full sand and refinish every ten to fifteen years. High-traffic areas such as hallways may need attention sooner. Keeping the lacquer maintained — cleaning regularly with a suitable product and applying a maintenance topcoat if it starts to look worn in spots — extends the time between full sandings considerably.

Project Overview

This project in Wandsworth covered the routine maintenance of an engineered wood floor and a matching wooden staircase. Both surfaces were in good overall condition but had started to lose their original sheen and protection after a few years of everyday use. The owner wanted to preserve the floor rather than undertake a full sand, which was the right call given the floor's solid condition. Re-oiling with a preparatory buff is one of the most cost-effective ways to keep an engineered wood floor in top shape, typically costing far less than a full sanding job.

The Challenge

Engineered wood floors have a top lamella of real hardwood, but that layer is thinner than a solid board. Over-sanding is the most common mistake made by inexperienced operators, and it can remove too much of the wear layer and leave the floor structurally compromised. For this Wandsworth floor, the finish had become dull and slightly worn in the heavy-traffic areas near doorways and the foot of the stairs, but the bare wood underneath was untouched. A full sand would have been unnecessary and wasteful. The challenge was determining the lightest effective treatment that would restore the protective barrier without cutting into the wood.

Our Approach

Inspection and assessment. We started by inspecting both the floor and the staircase under strong lighting to check for any deep scratches, loose boards or structural concerns that would require sanding before re-oiling. None were found.

Buffing the surface. Using a rotary buffing machine with a fine abrasive pad, we lightly abraded the surface of the floor and stair treads to remove the old, depleted oil layer and open the wood's pores. This creates the key the new oil needs to bond properly. Buffing also removes minor surface scuffs without taking any real wood off.

Applying the oil finish. Two coats of a high-quality oil finish were applied, allowing adequate drying time between coats. Oil finishes soak into the grain rather than sitting on top, so they nourish the wood from within and are far better at bringing out the natural colour and character of the boards than a lacquer coat over a dull surface.

Final inspection. Once dry, we went over both surfaces under good lighting to confirm even coverage, paying particular attention to the nosings on each stair tread as these receive the most wear.

The Result

The floor and stairs came up looking fresh and well-protected without requiring a full strip-back. The natural grain and warm tone of the wood were restored, and the new oil coat provides a good level of protection against spills and daily wear. The owner now has a straightforward maintenance schedule: a light re-oil every year or two will keep the surfaces in this condition indefinitely without ever needing a full sand. Re-oiling a floor costs considerably less per visit than a full sanding job, making it a practical long-term plan for anyone with an oiled finish.

Frequently Asked Questions

Does re-oiling an engineered floor require sanding first?
Not always. If the oil finish is simply worn rather than deeply scratched, a buff with a fine abrasive pad is enough to prepare the surface. Sanding is only needed when the floor has deeper damage that has penetrated through the finish into the wood.

How often does an engineered wood floor need re-oiling?
This depends on the level of traffic. In a family home with moderate use, re-oiling every one to two years is usually sufficient. High-traffic areas like hallways may need attention annually.

Can wooden stairs be re-oiled at the same time as the floor?
Yes, and it is advisable to do both at once so the finish matches. Stair treads are treated using smaller buffing equipment that can work around spindles and get into tight corners on each step.

Project Overview

This Romford property had a traditional pine parquet floor that had seen many decades of use. The overall pattern was intact and the wood itself was in reasonable condition, but closer inspection showed loose blocks, gaps between sections and a tired, heavily worn finish. Rather than ripping it out, the owners sensibly opted for a full restoration: re-gluing the loose blocks, filling the gaps and sanding and refinishing the surface. Parquet restoration typically falls in the higher end of the sanding price range at around £70-100 per square metre, but it is almost always better value than replacement given the character of original parquet floors.

The Challenge

Parquet floors present several challenges that solid plank floors do not. First, the blocks are laid in directional patterns, which means you cannot sand straight down the room in one direction. Sanding across the grain damages the surface, so parquet requires multiple diagonal and cross-grain passes with careful feathering at each stage. Second, loose blocks have to be identified and re-glued before any sanding takes place, because a block that lifts mid-sand can cause serious damage to the machine and uneven results. Third, the gaps in this floor were at different stages, some small and tight, others wide enough to trap debris. A uniform fill was needed that would blend with the rest of the surface after sanding.

Our Approach

Block inspection and re-gluing. We worked across the entire floor systematically, pressing each block to identify loose ones. Loose blocks were carefully lifted where necessary, the old adhesive was cleaned from the subfloor, and fresh flooring adhesive was used to refix them. Any blocks that were split or beyond saving were replaced with matching pine stock.

Gap filling. Once all blocks were secure and the adhesive had cured, we mixed a filler of natural resin and wood dust. This mixture remains slightly flexible when dry, which means it contracts and expands with the wood rather than cracking away from the edges. Using the sanding dust from the floor itself ensures the colour match is as close as possible.

Multi-pass sanding. The floor was sanded in several stages, starting with a coarser grit to remove the old finish and surface imperfections, then progressing to medium and fine grits to achieve a smooth, uniform surface. We worked diagonally across the herringbone pattern and used edging machines and corners scrapers to reach the areas the drum sander cannot access.

Refinishing. Two coats of a durable finish were applied to seal the floor and protect it from further wear.

The Result

The finished floor looked completely different to the one we started with. Every trace of the old worn finish was gone, the blocks sat level and tight with no movement, and the gaps had been filled to an almost invisible finish. The natural warmth and pattern of the pine parquet came back fully once the new finish was applied. This floor will now last many more decades with normal maintenance.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does parquet floor restoration take?
A typical residential parquet floor of around 20-40 square metres takes two to three days, allowing for drying time between the gap fill and the final finish coats.

What is used to fill the gaps in parquet floors?
We mix a paste of natural wood resin and sawdust collected during sanding. This gives a colour-matched, flexible filler that does not shrink or crack when the floor moves seasonally.

Is it worth restoring old parquet rather than replacing it?
Almost always yes. Original parquet, particularly in older London homes, is often made from better-quality wood than modern equivalents and has a character that is hard to replicate. Restoration costs a fraction of replacement and the results can be remarkable.

Project Overview

This solid wood floor in Lewisham had been in place for many years and showed the typical signs of age and heavy use. Several boards were beyond repair, gaps had opened between others, and the finish across the whole floor was severely worn. The job required a combination of board replacement, gap filling and a full sand and refinish to bring the floor back to a usable, attractive condition. Projects like this, which combine structural repair with cosmetic restoration, are good examples of why early professional assessment saves money in the long run. Sanding costs in London typically run from £25 to £45 per square metre depending on the condition of the floor and what prep work is needed.

The Challenge

The most time-consuming part of this project was sourcing replacement boards that would blend with the original floor. Real wood floors in older properties are often made from timber that is no longer readily available in standard dimensions, so finding a match requires working with specialist suppliers and sometimes accepting a slight variation in width or colour that will even out after sanding. The structural condition of the subfloor also needed checking before any new boards went down. Once replacement was done, the transitions between old and new boards had to be sanded smooth so no ridge was left visible. Additionally, the gaps were varied in size from hairline to several millimetres, each requiring a different approach to filling.

Our Approach

Board assessment and replacement. We walked the floor carefully to identify every damaged or unsound board. Boards that had split, cracked severely or could not be re-secured were lifted, and new boards of a matching species and thickness were cut and fitted. Nail holes from the old boards were filled.

Gap filling. The gaps were filled using a resin and sawdust compound mixed to match the existing floor colour. Larger gaps were built up in stages to avoid shrinkage. Once dry and cured, the filler was level with the surrounding boards.

Progressive sanding. The floor was sanded in multiple passes, starting with a medium grit to remove the old finish and flatten any transitions between old and new boards, then moving to fine grits to produce a smooth, consistent surface across the whole floor.

Finishing. Two coats of a hard-wearing lacquer were applied to seal and protect the surface. The lacquer brings out the colour of the wood and provides a durable barrier against everyday wear.

The Result

The floor came out looking uniform and fresh. The new boards blended well once sanded and finished, and the gap-filled areas were barely detectable. The owners now have a solid, stable floor with a proper protective finish that will stand up well to daily life. The whole restoration was significantly cheaper than replacing the floor with new timber.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do you match replacement boards to an old floor?
We work with a network of specialist timber suppliers who stock reclaimed and reproduction boards in period dimensions. Sanding the whole floor after fitting new boards helps blend old and new by giving everything a uniform colour and finish.

Can all gaps in floorboards be filled?
Most gaps can be filled effectively with a resin and wood dust mixture. Very wide gaps, usually those over about 8mm, may need a pine sliver rather than filler paste to give a stable, long-lasting result.

How long does a sanding and repair job take on an average room?
A single room of 15-25 square metres with board replacements and gap filling usually takes two days: one day for the structural work and the fill to cure, and a second day for sanding and finishing.

Project Overview

A beautiful parquet floor in Hampstead had developed a number of problems that needed addressing. The finish was heavily worn, gaps had appeared across the block pattern, and the overall surface looked dull and tired. The owners had owned the property for several years and wanted to restore the floor to its original standard before redecorating. Parquet floors in Hampstead properties are often original to the house and made from quality hardwood, so restoration is nearly always the right choice. Professional parquet sanding in London typically costs in the region of £70 to £100 per square metre due to the additional skill and time required compared to a standard plank floor.

The Challenge

Parquet floors are sanded differently to straight-plank floors because the blocks run in multiple directions to form the pattern. Sanding always has to follow the grain; otherwise the cross-grain scratching left by the machine becomes visible under the finish. On a herringbone or basket-weave pattern, achieving a consistent, scratch-free surface requires diagonal sanding passes at specific angles, careful edging around the perimeter, and detailed hand scraping in tight spots. The gap filling on this floor also required more attention than usual because the gaps were not uniform, varying in width depending on where the floor had contracted most. Each section had to be filled to the right level without overfilling.

Our Approach

Full floor inspection. Before any sanding, we checked every block for looseness and the subfloor for any soft spots or movement. All loose blocks were re-glued and left to cure before we moved on.

Gap filling with resin mixture. We mixed natural resin with the fine dust generated during the first sanding pass to produce a filler that closely matched the floor colour. The filler was pressed firmly into each gap, allowed to cure fully, then lightly sanded flush with the surface.

Multi-stage sanding. The floor was sanded in three stages using progressively finer grits. The initial passes worked diagonally across the pattern to remove the old finish and any deeper surface imperfections. Subsequent passes followed closer to the grain direction to eliminate any cross-scratch marks. Edge sanding and hand scraping completed the perimeter.

Lacquer finish application. At the client's request, two coats of a high-quality lacquer were applied. Lacquer was chosen for its durability and the clean, clear finish it gives to a classic parquet pattern.

The Result

The restored floor was a significant improvement on what we arrived to. The old, dull finish was completely removed, the gaps were invisible, and the lacquer brought out the full depth of colour in the hardwood blocks. The pattern looked crisp and precise once the surface was flat and uniformly finished. The owners were very pleased with the result, and the floor now sits at the heart of a freshly redecorated room looking exactly as it should.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why does parquet sanding cost more than sanding a straight-plank floor?
Parquet requires multiple sanding angles rather than one straight pass, takes longer per square metre, and demands more experience to avoid visible cross-grain scratching. The additional time and skill involved accounts for the higher rate.

How many times can a parquet floor be sanded in its lifetime?
This depends on the thickness of the blocks. Solid parquet blocks are typically 22mm thick, and each full sand removes around 0.5 to 1mm of wood, so a well-maintained parquet floor can be sanded many times before the blocks become too thin.

Is lacquer or oil a better finish for parquet?
Both work well. Lacquer gives a harder, more durable surface film that is good for high-traffic rooms. Oil gives a more natural look and feel and is easier to spot-repair, but needs re-applying more regularly. The choice comes down to preference and how much maintenance the owner wants to carry out.