Floor Sanding Case Studies

Project Overview This Buckhurst Hill property needed new flooring installed across the main living areas. The client had opted for engineered wood as their preferred choice, primarily because the house had some areas with potential for moisture variation, including a room over an unventilated crawl space. Engineered wood's layered construction makes it considerably more stable in these conditions ...

Project Overview

This Buckhurst Hill property needed new flooring installed across the main living areas. The client had opted for engineered wood as their preferred choice, primarily because the house had some areas with potential for moisture variation, including a room over an unventilated crawl space. Engineered wood's layered construction makes it considerably more stable in these conditions than solid hardwood, which was the right call for this particular property. The installation covered the living room, dining area, and hallway.

The Challenge

The room over the crawl space had shown slightly higher moisture readings in the past, and the subfloor in that area needed careful assessment before any flooring went down. Fitting engineered boards over a subfloor with unresolved moisture issues can lead to cupping, where the boards bow upward at their edges as they absorb moisture, or to the adhesive failing if the boards are glued down. The hallway subfloor also had an old adhesive residue from a previous floor covering that needed removing before a clean installation base was available.

Our Approach

Subfloor Assessment and Preparation

We carried out moisture testing across all subfloor areas. The room over the crawl space had a slightly elevated reading, which we addressed with a moisture barrier membrane before installation began. The adhesive residue in the hallway was mechanically removed and the surface levelled and cleaned.

Acclimatisation

The engineered boards were delivered to the property and left to acclimatise for the manufacturer's recommended period before fitting. This allowed the boards to reach equilibrium with the temperature and humidity of the space, reducing the risk of movement after installation.

Installation

The boards were fitted using a combination of floating and glued methods, chosen according to the subfloor type in each area. The floating method was used in the main rooms for ease of future access, and a direct glue-down method was used in the hallway where there was less room for expansion and a firmer fix was preferable. All expansion gaps at perimeters were correctly maintained throughout.

Accessories and Finishing

Matching beading, threshold strips, and reducer bars were fitted at all walls and transitions. The product specifications were matched to the board profile to give a neat, factory-finished appearance at all edges.

The Result

The finished floor runs consistently throughout the property, with clean transitions between areas and all accessories properly fitted. The engineered boards have held their position well since installation with no movement or cupping, which confirms the subfloor preparation work was effective. Engineered floor fitting in Essex and the surrounding areas typically costs from £35 to £60 per square metre for supply and fit, depending on the board specification and subfloor preparation required.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why is engineered wood better than solid wood in a property with moisture concerns?
Engineered wood is constructed from multiple layers of timber bonded together at different grain directions, which gives it much greater dimensional stability than a solid plank. Where solid wood can expand, contract, cup, or bow significantly in response to moisture changes, engineered boards move far less and are far less likely to develop problems in areas where moisture control is not perfect.

What is the best installation method for engineered wood - floating or glue-down?
Both methods work well, and the best choice depends on the subfloor type and the property layout. Floating is quicker to install and easier to replace in sections if needed. Glue-down gives a more solid underfoot feel and is better in narrower spaces or areas with limited room for expansion. Many installations use both methods in different areas of the same property.

How thick should an engineered board be for a standard domestic installation?
Most domestic engineered floor installations use boards between 12mm and 20mm total thickness. The total thickness affects the underfoot feel and the height change at doorway transitions. The veneer thickness is also important as it determines how many times the floor can be sanded in the future. A 3mm or 4mm veneer is generally recommended for a floor you want to be able to refinish.

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Project Overview This Tadworth project combined engineered wood floor installation with sanding and finishing of the laid boards. The client was fitting a new unfinished engineered oak floor and wanted the sanding and finishing done on site after installation to achieve a consistent factory-flat result and their preferred finish specification. Installing unfinished engineered boards and sanding on...

Project Overview

This Tadworth project combined engineered wood floor installation with sanding and finishing of the laid boards. The client was fitting a new unfinished engineered oak floor and wanted the sanding and finishing done on site after installation to achieve a consistent factory-flat result and their preferred finish specification. Installing unfinished engineered boards and sanding on site gives a higher quality finish than pre-finished boards, particularly at the board joints, and allows full control over the final colour and sheen level.

The Challenge

Installing unfinished engineered boards and then sanding on site requires careful sequencing. The boards must be fully fixed and the adhesive fully cured before any sanding machine is brought across the floor. Sanding too early can loosen boards or create movement at the joints. The other challenge is achieving a truly flat sanded result on a newly installed floor, where the boards may have slight height variation between individual planks. The sanding programme needs to address this levelling as well as producing the fine surface needed for finishing.

Our Approach

Subfloor Preparation and Board Installation

The subfloor was checked and prepared to the level of flatness required for a glued installation. The unfinished engineered boards were bonded down using a flexible wood floor adhesive and the full installation was completed before the floor was left to cure. No sanding or foot traffic was allowed on the new floor until the adhesive had fully set.

Levelling Sand

Once cured, we carried out an initial levelling sand to remove any height differences between adjacent boards and to open the grain of the wood consistently across the full floor. This pass uses a coarser grit than subsequent passes and focuses on getting the surface as flat as possible before moving to the finishing stages.

Finishing Sanding Passes

After the levelling pass, we worked through progressively finer grits to bring the surface to a smooth, consistent condition across the whole floor. Edge sanding was carried out alongside the main floor work to keep the full area progressing at the same pace.

Finish Application

The client had chosen a natural hardwax oil finish, which was applied in two coats with buffing between each. Hardwax oil gives a natural, open appearance to the wood and is a popular choice for newly installed floors where the client wants the wood to look and feel as close to its natural state as possible.

The Result

The finished floor was smooth and consistent throughout, with the hardwax oil finish giving the oak a warm, natural appearance. The joints between boards were flush and clean, which is the key benefit of sanding on site after installation. The client was very pleased with the result. For supply, fit, sand, and finish of an engineered floor in Surrey and the surrounding area, expect to budget from around £45 to £70 per square metre depending on the board specification and finish chosen.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the advantage of installing unfinished engineered boards and sanding on site?
The main advantage is the finish quality at the board joints. Pre-finished boards have a small bevel at each edge, which creates a visible groove at every joint in the finished floor. On a site-sanded floor, the joints sand flat and the finish goes across them uniformly, giving a much cleaner overall appearance. It also allows full control over the colour, sheen level, and finish product used.

What is hardwax oil and how does it differ from lacquer?
Hardwax oil is a penetrating finish made from natural oils and waxes that soaks into the wood rather than forming a film on the surface. It gives the floor a more natural, matte appearance and a tactile feel that many clients prefer. It is easier to touch up in small areas if damage occurs. Lacquer sits on top of the wood as a protective film, giving a harder surface and a slightly more reflective finish. Both are durable and widely used.

Can an engineered floor installed with adhesive ever be lifted and reused?
This is difficult in practice. Glued-down boards are bonded firmly to the subfloor and removal typically damages both the boards and the subfloor surface. If future flexibility is important, a floating installation is a better choice. Glue-down is generally recommended when the best underfoot performance and stability are the priority.

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Project Overview This Northwood property had a new hardwood floor installed and sanded as a complete project. The client had chosen unfinished solid oak boards for the main reception room, wanting a traditional solid wood floor that could be sanded and finished on site to their exact specification. The installation, on-site sanding, and oil finish were all handled as a single project, from subfloo...

Project Overview

This Northwood property had a new hardwood floor installed and sanded as a complete project. The client had chosen unfinished solid oak boards for the main reception room, wanting a traditional solid wood floor that could be sanded and finished on site to their exact specification. The installation, on-site sanding, and oil finish were all handled as a single project, from subfloor preparation through to final coat.

The Challenge

Installing solid hardwood floors requires more subfloor preparation and care than engineered boards. Solid wood is more sensitive to moisture and will move significantly if the subfloor is not completely dry, the room is not at a stable temperature and humidity, or the boards are not given sufficient time to acclimatise before fitting. Getting the subfloor condition right is not optional with solid wood. Skipping or rushing these steps is the most common cause of problems after installation. The room in this property also had a bay window area that required careful planning to keep the floor pattern consistent around the projection without leaving awkward cut pieces in the most visible part of the room.

Our Approach

Subfloor Preparation

The subfloor was thoroughly checked for levelness, moisture content, and structural soundness. A plywood overlay was installed to provide a stable, flat base for the hardwood boards. This is standard practice when laying solid wood over an older concrete or suspended timber subfloor, as it provides a consistent nailing or stapling surface and helps buffer any residual moisture variation in the subfloor below.

Acclimatisation

The solid oak boards were delivered to the property and left in the room where they would be fitted for the full manufacturer-recommended acclimatisation period. This is a step we take seriously, as the amount of movement in a solid wood floor post-installation is directly related to how well the boards were acclimatised before fitting.

Board Installation

The boards were installed using a secret-nail method, working from the straightest wall and using a board straightener to keep each run tight and aligned. The bay window area was planned from the outset to keep the board layout symmetrical and avoid cuts at the focal points of the room.

On-Site Sanding and Finishing

Once installed and allowed to settle, the floor was sanded through a multi-stage programme starting with a levelling grit and finishing with a fine grit ready for the oil application. A natural hardwax oil was applied in two coats, buffed between each, giving the oak a warm, open-grained finish that suits the character of the room well.

The Result

The finished floor is a significant improvement to the reception room. The solid oak has a warmth and depth that suits the property, the grain reads well across the space, and the oil finish gives good protection without adding any artificial sheen. The client was particularly pleased with the bay window layout, which came out cleanly and consistently. Solid hardwood floor installation and sanding in the Northwood area typically costs from around £50 to £80 per square metre for supply, fit, sand, and finish, depending on the timber species and the finish specification.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does solid wood need to acclimatise before fitting?
The standard recommendation is a minimum of three to five days in the room where the floor will be fitted, with the boards stacked so air can circulate around them. In older properties with older heating systems or in winter months when heating cycles are more pronounced, a longer acclimatisation period is advisable. We always recommend erring on the longer side rather than rushing this step.

Can a solid wood floor be installed in a kitchen or bathroom?
We generally advise against solid wood in kitchens and bathrooms due to the exposure to moisture. Engineered wood is a far better choice in these rooms and can be specified to look identical to solid wood from above. Solid wood is best used in rooms where moisture and temperature are well controlled, such as living rooms and bedrooms.

How many times can a solid hardwood floor be sanded in its lifetime?
This depends on the thickness of the boards and the amount removed with each sand. A 20mm solid oak board, for example, can typically be sanded four to six times over its lifetime before the tongue is approached. This makes solid hardwood one of the most long-lasting flooring options available, with a potential lifespan of many decades when maintained correctly.

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Project Overview This parquet floor sanding and renovation project took place in a period property in Esher, Surrey. The floor had not been touched for well over a decade and was showing the wear that comes with years of daily use: a dull, scratched surface, gaps between blocks, and a finish that had broken down in heavy-traffic areas. The client wanted the floor restored to its original chara...

Project Overview

This parquet floor sanding and renovation project took place in a period property in Esher, Surrey. The floor had not been touched for well over a decade and was showing the wear that comes with years of daily use: a dull, scratched surface, gaps between blocks, and a finish that had broken down in heavy-traffic areas. The client wanted the floor restored to its original character without replacement. Parquet sanding typically costs between £70 and £100 per square metre when combined with gap filling and a full lacquer finish, and this project fell comfortably within that range.

The Challenge

Parquet floors cannot be sanded the same way as a standard plank floor. Each block runs at a different angle to its neighbour, depending on the pattern, so sanding straight along one axis risks tearing grain and leaving cross-grain scratches that are very difficult to remove. This floor had a traditional herringbone layout, which demands diagonal sanding passes and careful edging to avoid creating flat spots or rounding the block corners. On top of that, several blocks were loose and a handful had lifted slightly, which had to be sorted before any machine could go near the surface. The gaps between blocks were also uneven, making a uniform fill harder to achieve.

Our Approach

1. Inspection and repair: We walked the entire floor, pressing each block to check adhesion, re-gluing loose ones and replacing two that had cracked beyond use with matching stock. All nails were punched below the surface.
2. Gap filling: We mixed fine wood dust from the initial sanding passes with a two-part resin filler and pressed it into every gap. This approach produces a fill that is colour-matched to the actual wood rather than a generic filler tone.
3. Coarse sanding: Using a drum sander with a medium-grit belt, we worked across the herringbone at 45 degrees in two opposing diagonal directions to flatten the surface evenly and remove the old finish without attacking any single block grain.
4. Intermediate and fine sanding: We followed up with finer grits, progressively smoothing the surface, then used an edge sander in the corners and a detail tool around the door architraves.
5. Buffing: A rotary buffer with a fine pad brought the surface to a consistent, smooth finish ready for coating.
6. Lacquering: Three coats of a hard-wearing water-based lacquer were applied, with a light buff between coats. The gloss finish brought out the warm tones of the oak blocks and gave the pattern strong visual definition.

The Result

The transformation was dramatic. The old, dull surface gave way to a floor with real depth and warmth, the herringbone pattern standing out clearly under the fresh lacquer. The gaps are gone, the surface is smooth and even, and the repaired blocks are indistinguishable from the originals. The client now has a floor that will comfortably last another 20 to 30 years before it needs professional attention again, provided it receives the occasional re-coat when the finish starts to show wear.

Frequently Asked Questions

How often does a parquet floor need to be professionally sanded?

A solid parquet floor can typically be sanded four to six times over its lifetime. In a family home with moderate traffic, full sanding is usually needed every 15 to 25 years. Re-coating the finish every five to ten years extends the time between full sanding jobs considerably.

Can you sand a parquet floor that has loose blocks?

Loose blocks must be fixed before sanding begins. Running a drum sander over a loose block can flip it, damage adjacent blocks, or damage the machine. Re-gluing is a straightforward job and adds very little to the overall project cost.

What finish is best for a herringbone parquet floor?

Lacquer is the most popular choice because it sits on top of the wood and provides a hard, protective layer that is easy to clean. Oil finishes are an alternative for those who prefer a more natural look, though they require more regular maintenance. For a high-use reception room or hallway, lacquer is usually the more practical option.

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Project Overview This project in Winchmore Hill, North London, combined parquet floor repair, gap filling, sanding, and lacquering to bring an ageing floor back to a high standard. The property was a traditional semi-detached house with a herringbone parquet floor covering the hallway and reception room. Over the years, moisture fluctuations had caused a number of blocks to lift and some to de...

Project Overview

This project in Winchmore Hill, North London, combined parquet floor repair, gap filling, sanding, and lacquering to bring an ageing floor back to a high standard. The property was a traditional semi-detached house with a herringbone parquet floor covering the hallway and reception room. Over the years, moisture fluctuations had caused a number of blocks to lift and some to develop splits, while gaps between blocks had grown wide enough to trap dirt. Rather than replacing the floor entirely, the client chose a full restoration, which is considerably more cost-effective and preserves the original character of the floor.

The Challenge

The main complication here was the extent of the block damage. Several blocks were not just loose but had split along the grain, meaning they needed to be removed and replaced rather than simply re-glued. Finding matching replacement stock that would blend with the original aged oak was important, as poorly matched replacements can make a repaired floor look patchy. The floor also had a wide variation in gap size, with some sections being tight and others having gaps of two or three millimetres, requiring careful filler work to achieve a consistent result across the whole surface.

Our Approach

1. Damage assessment: We mapped the floor systematically, marking every loose, cracked, or damaged block for attention before any sanding equipment was brought in.
2. Block replacement: Damaged blocks were carefully removed to avoid disturbing the surrounding ones. Replacement blocks in matching oak were glued and clamped in position, allowed to cure fully overnight.
3. Re-gluing loose blocks: Undamaged blocks that had lifted were cleaned of old adhesive residue, re-glued with a flexible wood adhesive, and weighted down until set.
4. Gap filling: We mixed a two-part resin with sanding dust to produce a filler matching the floor's natural colour, packed this into every gap, and allowed it to fully harden before sanding commenced.
5. Sanding: The surface was sanded in the correct diagonal sequence for herringbone parquet, moving through coarse, medium, and fine grits to achieve a flat, smooth result. Edge sanding was completed by hand in tight corners.
6. Lacquering: Two base coats followed by a top coat of hard-wearing gloss lacquer finished the job. Each coat was lightly abraded between applications for good adhesion.

The Result

The finished floor looked consistent and clean, with no visible trace of the repaired sections. The gaps were gone, the surface was smooth, and the lacquer brought a warm sheen to the oak that the client had not seen since the floor was first installed. At around £70 to £100 per square metre for a full parquet restoration of this scope, the cost is significantly below that of a replacement floor, and the result is arguably better because the original wood carries character that new boards simply cannot replicate.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do you match replacement parquet blocks to the existing floor?

We source replacement blocks in the same species and, where possible, the same cut as the original. Once sanded and finished together, the natural wood tones blend well. In very old floors with heavily aged wood, a slight variation in tone can remain, but this is generally barely noticeable once the finish is applied across the whole surface.

Is gap filling in parquet floors a permanent fix?

A resin and dust filler in well-maintained conditions will last many years. Wood does expand and contract with seasonal humidity changes, so some hairline movement at the filler edges is normal. Keeping indoor humidity reasonably stable, ideally between 45 and 65 per cent, reduces this movement and extends the life of the fill.

Can all parquet floors be repaired rather than replaced?

Most can, provided the subfloor is sound and the boards have enough thickness remaining for sanding. Very thin parquet tiles or floors that have been sanded down close to their limit may not be suitable for further sanding. We assess this during a free pre-visit inspection before quoting.

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Project Overview This engineered wood floor sanding and oiling project was completed at a residential property in Homerton, East London. The floor, installed around seven years before we were called in, was looking tired. The original oil finish had worn through in the main traffic lanes, leaving dry, unprotected wood exposed while the rest of the surface retained a patchy sheen. The client wa...

Project Overview

This engineered wood floor sanding and oiling project was completed at a residential property in Homerton, East London. The floor, installed around seven years before we were called in, was looking tired. The original oil finish had worn through in the main traffic lanes, leaving dry, unprotected wood exposed while the rest of the surface retained a patchy sheen. The client wanted a consistent, refreshed finish without a heavy lacquer look, so we agreed that a light surface sand followed by a quality oil re-coat was the right approach. Engineered floor sanding typically runs between £25 and £45 per square metre, depending on the level of work required.

The Challenge

The main thing to understand with engineered wood is that the real wood veneer on top is thinner than in solid boards, typically between three and six millimetres. This means there is a limited number of times the floor can be sanded before the veneer is too thin to work with safely. In this case, the floor had not been professionally sanded before, so we had good material to work with, but we still needed to be conservative with the depth of cut. A standard drum sander set too aggressively could remove more wood than necessary or, worse, break through the veneer into the plywood core below. The other challenge was the existing oil finish, which needed to be fully stripped to allow the new oil to penetrate the wood properly.

Our Approach

1. Surface assessment: We measured the veneer thickness in a discreet corner to confirm adequate depth for sanding, then identified the worst-worn areas and checked for any cupped or warped boards.
2. Light surface sanding: Using a buffing machine rather than a drum sander, we worked across the floor with a medium-grit abrasive pad to strip the old oil finish and smooth the surface. This technique removes far less material than a full drum sand while still achieving a clean base for re-oiling.
3. Edge work: The perimeter was carefully sanded by hand with a detail sander to match the centre of the room without marking the skirting boards.
4. Fine buffing: A finer abrasive pad completed the prep work, leaving the surface clean, open-grained, and ready for oil penetration.
5. First oil coat: We applied a generous first coat of a high-quality hardwax oil, working it into the grain with a cloth applicator and allowing it to penetrate before removing any excess. This coat nourishes the wood and begins building protection.
6. Second oil coat: After the first coat had cured overnight, we applied a second, thinner coat and buffed it to an even sheen. The finish is now consistent across the entire floor, with no more patchy worn areas.

The Result

The floor looked completely different after treatment. The patchy, worn surface was replaced by a consistent, natural-looking finish that brought out the grain of the wood without making it look plastic or overly shiny. The oil soaks into the wood rather than sitting on top, which means it feels more natural underfoot and is far easier to spot-repair in future if a section gets damaged. The client was pleased with how much the floor had improved without the cost or disruption of replacement.

Frequently Asked Questions

How many times can an engineered wood floor be sanded?

This depends on the thickness of the real wood veneer. A three-millimetre veneer can typically be lightly sanded once or twice. A six-millimetre veneer allows two or three full sands over the floor's lifetime. We always check the veneer depth before quoting to confirm sanding is viable.

What is the difference between an oil finish and a lacquer on engineered wood?

Oil penetrates the wood fibres and provides a natural look and feel. It is relatively easy to maintain, as you can re-oil specific areas without sanding the entire floor. Lacquer sits on the surface as a hard film, offering stronger protection in very high-traffic areas but requiring a full sand and re-coat when it wears through.

How long after oiling before the floor can be used?

With a hardwax oil, light foot traffic is usually fine after 24 hours. Full hardness and maximum protection develop over seven to ten days. We advise clients to avoid dragging heavy furniture across the floor for at least a week after treatment.

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Project Overview This laminate floor fitting project was completed at a flat in Fulham, West London. The client was renovating their living room and kitchen area and wanted a floor that would look great, stand up to daily use, and not cost a fortune. Laminate flooring was the natural choice. Modern laminate has come an enormous distance from the flimsy products sold in the 1990s. Today's board...

Project Overview

This laminate floor fitting project was completed at a flat in Fulham, West London. The client was renovating their living room and kitchen area and wanted a floor that would look great, stand up to daily use, and not cost a fortune. Laminate flooring was the natural choice. Modern laminate has come an enormous distance from the flimsy products sold in the 1990s. Today's boards are thick, stable, and convincingly replicate the look and texture of real wood, including brushed finishes, hand-scraped effects, and natural grain variation. For a professional supply and fit, clients in London should expect to pay in the region of £35 to £60 per square metre, depending on the grade of laminate selected.

The Challenge

The room had an old carpet and underlay over a concrete subfloor that needed to be lifted before any fitting could begin. Concrete subfloors are unforgiving: any high spots or hollow areas will cause laminate boards to flex, click, and potentially crack at the joints over time. The concrete in this property had a few raised areas near a previous plumbing repair and some uneven dips near the wall. Getting this flat enough for floating laminate installation required careful grinding and levelling before the boards went down. Door frame clearances also needed to be checked, as the new floor raised the finished height by about twelve millimetres.

Our Approach

1. Strip-out: We lifted and disposed of the existing carpet, gripper rods, and underlay, clearing the subfloor completely before starting any prep work.
2. Subfloor preparation: The concrete was swept, vacuumed, and inspected for high spots. Raised areas were ground back with a belt sander and a self-levelling compound was poured over the low areas and feathered out to create a flat, smooth base.
3. Damp-proof membrane: A polyethylene damp-proof membrane was laid over the concrete to prevent any residual moisture from migrating into the laminate boards and causing swelling or joint lift.
4. Underlay installation: A quality foam underlay with a built-in moisture barrier was rolled out over the membrane. A good underlay is critical for reducing the hollow sound laminate can produce underfoot and for improving thermal insulation at floor level.
5. Laminate fitting: The boards were fitted in a staggered brick-bond pattern, leaving the manufacturer-recommended expansion gap around the perimeter. Door frames were undercut to allow the boards to slide beneath, giving a clean finish without the need for ugly architrave trims.
6. Finishing details: Scotia beading was fitted around the perimeter and colour-matched threshold strips were installed at every doorway to complete the job neatly.

The Result

The finished room looked clean, modern, and well-put-together. The laminate chosen had a natural oak tone with a lightly textured surface that worked well with the existing decor. The client commented that it looked far more like real wood than they had expected. The floor is now warm underfoot, quiet to walk on, and straightforward to keep clean. With normal care, a good quality laminate floor installed over a properly prepared subfloor will last fifteen to twenty-five years before replacement becomes necessary.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need underlay under laminate flooring?

Yes, always. Underlay cushions the boards, reduces the hollow sound laminate can make underfoot, and helps with thermal insulation. Over a concrete subfloor, an underlay with an integrated damp-proof membrane is particularly important. Some laminate boards come with underlay pre-attached, but a separate, higher-quality underlay generally gives better results.

Can laminate be fitted over underfloor heating?

Many modern laminate products are compatible with underfloor heating, but the system temperature must not exceed 27 degrees Celsius at the surface and the floor should be allowed to acclimatise to the room for at least 48 hours before fitting. Always check the manufacturer's specifications for the laminate you are using.

How do I deal with gaps between laminate and skirting boards?

The expansion gap between the laminate and the wall is deliberate and necessary. It is covered by the skirting board or by a separate Scotia bead fitted over it. Never fill this gap with sealant or fix anything into it, as this prevents the floor from expanding and can cause buckling.

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Project Overview This parquet floor sanding and refinishing project was carried out at a family home in West Ealing, West London. The property had a beautiful original herringbone parquet in the hallway, front reception room, and on the staircase. The floors had not been professionally treated in many years and were in need of a full sand and refinish. The client was also keen to have the stai...

Project Overview

This parquet floor sanding and refinishing project was carried out at a family home in West Ealing, West London. The property had a beautiful original herringbone parquet in the hallway, front reception room, and on the staircase. The floors had not been professionally treated in many years and were in need of a full sand and refinish. The client was also keen to have the staircase brought up to the same standard as the floors to create a consistent look throughout the ground floor. Parquet sanding with a lacquer finish typically falls in the £70 to £100 per square metre range, which is well justified given the result.

The Challenge

The biggest technical challenge with this project was the volume and variety of surfaces involved. Sanding a herringbone parquet floor demands a very different technique from sanding a straight-run timber floor. The blocks are laid at 45-degree angles to each other, so you cannot sand straight along the room. Any drum sanding has to be done on the diagonal to avoid cross-grain scratching. On the staircase, working with an industrial sander is not possible, so each tread had to be sanded by hand or with a detail sander, requiring considerably more time and care. The treads also had nosing edges that needed to be rounded and smoothed without creating flat spots.

Our Approach

1. Floor inspection: We checked every block across the main rooms for security, re-gluing and nailing down any that had come loose before sanding began.
2. Coarse diagonal sanding: The drum sander was run at 45 degrees to the herringbone grain in two opposing directions to strip the old finish and level the surface evenly without risking cross-grain damage.
3. Intermediate sanding: A second pass with a medium-grit belt smoothed the marks left by the coarse cut and began preparing the surface for finishing.
4. Fine sanding and edging: Fine-grit passes completed the main surface work. The edge sander was used along the walls and in doorway alcoves where the drum cannot reach.
5. Staircase work: Each tread was sanded by hand using a combination of orbital and detail sanders, working with the grain to avoid scratching the surface. The nosings were carefully shaped to remove any sharp edges while maintaining their profile.
6. Lacquering: Three coats of gloss lacquer were applied to both the floor and the staircase treads, with a fine buff between each coat. The consistent finish across both surfaces ties the whole area together visually.

The Result

The transformation across both the rooms and the staircase was significant. The flat, worn surface of the parquet was replaced by a bright, glossy finish that gives full definition to the herringbone pattern. The staircase now matches the floors exactly, which makes the whole entrance area feel considered and well-finished. The client described it as looking better than when the house was originally fitted out. With proper care and an occasional re-coat when the finish shows wear, this floor should last another 20 years before needing professional attention again.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can a parquet floor and staircase be sanded to match?

Yes, provided both are made from a compatible wood species and the finish used is the same. Getting the exact colour and sheen level to match across both surfaces requires care and consistency in the finishing process, but it is absolutely achievable and makes a real difference to the overall look of the space.

How long does it take to sand and refinish a parquet floor?

A typical room takes one to two days for sanding and preparation, plus the time needed for each lacquer coat to dry between applications. A standard three-coat lacquer process generally takes three to four days in total, including curing time between coats. Larger areas or those combined with staircase work take longer.

Is gloss lacquer the best finish for parquet?

Gloss lacquer is very popular for parquet because it emphasises the pattern clearly and is practical and easy to clean. Satin or matt lacquer is an option for those who prefer a softer appearance. Oil finishes work well too, though they require more regular re-treatment than lacquer. The choice depends on your lifestyle and personal preference.

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Project Overview This hardwood floor sanding, gap filling, and lacquering project was completed at a Victorian terraced property in Islington, North London. The original pine floorboards were in poor condition: the lacquer had worn through in the main traffic routes, the surface was scratched and stained, and the gaps between boards had grown wide enough to cause draughts and let dust collect....

Project Overview

This hardwood floor sanding, gap filling, and lacquering project was completed at a Victorian terraced property in Islington, North London. The original pine floorboards were in poor condition: the lacquer had worn through in the main traffic routes, the surface was scratched and stained, and the gaps between boards had grown wide enough to cause draughts and let dust collect. The client wanted the floor restored to a smart, practical condition that would work well for a busy family home. Hardwood floor sanding in London typically runs between £25 and £45 per square metre, inclusive of gap filling and a standard lacquer finish.

The Challenge

Older Victorian pine boards can be tricky to work with. The boards in this property were around 19 millimetres thick and had clearly been sanded at least once before, leaving less material to work with than a virgin floor. Some boards also had significant gaps, not just the standard seasonal movement gaps but wider ones caused by boards shrinking as the central heating dried the timber out over decades. The gap filling needed to be done properly, with a flexible material that would move slightly with the wood rather than cracking out within a couple of years. The surface also had a few deep scratches and dark staining around one area that would need extra passes to remove fully.

Our Approach

1. Preparation: We punched all nail heads below the surface to protect the sanding belts, then swept and vacuumed the floor thoroughly before starting.
2. Coarse sanding: An initial pass with a coarse belt on the drum sander removed the bulk of the old finish and surface imperfections, including most of the staining.
3. Gap filling: Once the first sanding pass was complete and sawdust was available, we mixed dust with a flexible resin binder and worked the filler into every gap. This ensures the fill is colour-matched to the actual floor and provides some flexibility to accommodate seasonal wood movement.
4. Medium and fine sanding: After the filler had cured, we completed medium and fine sanding passes across the whole floor, including a careful edge-sanding run along the skirting boards.
5. Buffing: A buffing machine with a fine pad completed the surface preparation, leaving the wood clean, smooth, and open-pored for the lacquer.
6. Three-coat lacquering: We applied three coats of a hard-wearing water-based lacquer in a satin finish, lightly abrading between coats to ensure good adhesion and a consistent sheen level throughout.

The Result

The floor went from looking tired and patchy to genuinely smart. The gaps were filled, the staining was gone, and the satin lacquer gave the old pine a warm, natural appearance that suited the period character of the house. The client was particularly pleased with the gap filling, which had stopped the draught that had been coming through the floor in winter. A well-maintained lacquer finish on pine can last eight to fifteen years before it needs refreshing, and the floor will be far easier to clean and keep looking good in the meantime.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is gap filling always necessary when sanding a hardwood floor?

It depends on the size and number of the gaps. Small seasonal movement gaps of one to two millimetres are normal and do not necessarily need filling. Larger gaps that collect dirt, cause draughts, or create a spongy feel underfoot benefit significantly from being filled. We assess this during the initial inspection and advise accordingly.

What causes the gaps between floorboards to get wider over time?

The most common cause is low humidity, usually from central heating drying out the air during winter. Wood is hygroscopic and will shrink when it loses moisture. Improving indoor humidity levels, ideally keeping relative humidity between 45 and 65 per cent, helps reduce this effect.

How long will a lacquered pine floor last before it needs re-sanding?

A pine floor with a good lacquer finish and normal domestic traffic can go ten to twenty years between full sanding jobs. In high-traffic areas such as hallways, the finish will wear first, and a maintenance coat applied before it wears through completely can extend the time between full sanding jobs considerably.

Have a similar project? Call us on 020 88309782 or Book a Free Site Visit

Project Overview This engineered wood floor fitting project took place at a detached house in North Finchley, North London. The client was upgrading from a worn fitted carpet in their living room and dining room and wanted a real wood floor that would be durable, easy to maintain, and suitable for a home with young children and a dog. Engineered wood was the right choice on all counts. It has ...

Project Overview

This engineered wood floor fitting project took place at a detached house in North Finchley, North London. The client was upgrading from a worn fitted carpet in their living room and dining room and wanted a real wood floor that would be durable, easy to maintain, and suitable for a home with young children and a dog. Engineered wood was the right choice on all counts. It has a genuine hardwood surface layer, is more stable than solid wood, and can handle the humidity and temperature variation that comes with a busy family home. For a professional supply and fit, engineered wood floor installation in London generally runs between £35 and £60 per square metre.

The Challenge

The two rooms shared a doorway, and getting the boards to run continuously through both spaces without a threshold strip at the door was something the client specifically wanted. This required careful planning of the board layout from the start, as the run direction had to work visually in both rooms simultaneously. The subfloor was a combination of chipboard sheets over joists, and one section near the bay window had developed some bounce that needed to be addressed before fitting. A bouncy subfloor puts stress on click joints and can cause boards to pop apart over time if not sorted at the outset.

Our Approach

1. Carpet removal: We lifted and removed the existing carpets, gripper rods, and underlay from both rooms, disposing of all waste off-site.
2. Subfloor inspection and repair: The chipboard was checked for movement, squeaks, and high spots. Two boards near the bay window were screwed back down firmly to eliminate the bounce, and a couple of raised edges were planed flat.
3. Acclimatisation: The engineered boards were left flat in the rooms for 48 hours before fitting to allow them to adjust to the temperature and humidity of the space. Skipping this step is a common cause of gapping or cupping after installation.
4. Underlay: A high-quality foam underlay with a built-in damp-proof membrane was laid in both rooms, overlapping at seams and taped securely.
5. Fitting: The boards were installed using a floating click system, laid in a staggered pattern for structural strength. The run direction was planned to pass through the doorway without interruption, giving the open-plan feel the client was after.
6. Finishing: Expansion gaps were covered with matching skirting boards, and any door frames that needed undercutting for clearance were dealt with cleanly so the boards tucked underneath rather than butting up against them.

The Result

The finished floor looked excellent. The boards ran cleanly through both rooms without any interruption at the doorway, which made the space feel larger and more connected. The engineered oak chosen had a brushed natural finish that worked well with the existing furniture and decor. The client was pleased with how practical it already felt, noting that marks from the dog could be wiped off instantly, which was not the case with the old carpet. Engineered wood installed over a well-prepared subfloor and maintained correctly should last 25 to 30 years before any remedial work is needed.

Frequently Asked Questions

Does engineered wood flooring need to acclimatise before fitting?

Yes. Engineered boards should be left flat in the room where they will be fitted for at least 48 hours before installation. This allows the wood to adjust to the ambient temperature and humidity and reduces the risk of post-installation gapping or warping caused by boards that go in at a different moisture content from the room environment.

Can engineered wood be fitted over underfloor heating?

Most engineered wood products are compatible with underfloor heating, making them a much better choice than solid wood in these situations. The key is to ensure the surface temperature does not exceed 27 degrees Celsius and that the system is ramped up and down gradually rather than switched on at full power in a cold room. Always check the specific product's guidelines before installation.

What is the difference between floating and glued engineered wood fitting?

Floating fitting means the boards click together and rest on the underlay without being fixed to the subfloor. It is quick, allows some movement, and can be taken up if needed. Gluing the boards down is more permanent and reduces any residual movement or sound, but is harder to reverse. For most domestic projects over a chipboard or concrete subfloor, floating fitting is perfectly adequate.

Have a similar project? Call us on 020 88309782 or Book a Free Site Visit