Floor Sanding Case Studies

Project Overview This Walthamstow property needed a new floor fitted across the ground floor, with the client choosing engineered wood as the preferred option. The installation included all floor accessories, beading and threshold strips to complete the finish throughout. The client had chosen their board specification in advance and wanted a clean, straightforward installation with minimal disrup...

Project Overview

This Walthamstow property needed a new floor fitted across the ground floor, with the client choosing engineered wood as the preferred option. The installation included all floor accessories, beading and threshold strips to complete the finish throughout. The client had chosen their board specification in advance and wanted a clean, straightforward installation with minimal disruption.

The Challenge

The subfloor in this property had a slight variation in level across the room, which is common in older London terraces. Before any boards go down, the subfloor must be within the manufacturer's tolerance for levelness, otherwise boards will flex, joints will open, and the floor will develop a hollow sound underfoot. There was also a question about the best installation method given the layout of the space and the direction of natural light, which affects how the grain of the boards reads in a finished room.

Our Approach

Subfloor Preparation

We started with a full inspection and measurement of the subfloor. Where the level was outside tolerance, we used a self-levelling compound to bring the surface into an acceptable range before any boarding work began. This step takes time but is what separates a floor that stays flat and tight over years from one that starts showing problems within months.

Acclimatisation

The engineered boards were left in the property for the recommended period before fitting. Engineered wood is more stable than solid hardwood, but it still responds to the temperature and humidity of the space it will be installed in. Skipping this step is a common cause of gaps appearing after fitting.

Board Installation

The boards were fitted using a floating method, which is well suited to this type of subfloor and allows the floor to move slightly with seasonal changes in the home environment. We worked from the most visible wall, keeping the layout symmetrical and the board direction aligned to the length of the room. Expansion gaps were maintained at all perimeters.

Finishing and Accessories

Once all boards were down, we fitted skirting beading to cover the expansion gaps and installed threshold strips at all doorways and transitions. These finishing details are what make the installation look complete and professional rather than rushed.

The Result

The finished floor runs cleanly through the ground floor of the property, with all accessories neatly fitted and consistent throughout. The client was happy with the layout decision and the way the boards read in the natural light of the space. Engineered floor fitting in London is typically priced between £35 and £60 per square metre for supply and fit, depending on the board specification and the condition of the existing subfloor.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does engineered floor fitting take for a ground floor?
For a typical two to three room ground floor in a London terrace, fitting usually takes one to two days, depending on the complexity of the layout and the amount of subfloor preparation needed. Larger areas or more complicated layouts will take longer.

Can engineered flooring be sanded and refinished?
Yes, most engineered boards have a wear layer thick enough to be lightly sanded and refinished at least once during their lifetime. The number of times depends on the thickness of the veneer layer, which varies between products. We can advise on this when specifying the boards.

Is engineered wood suitable for properties with underfloor heating?
Engineered wood is one of the best options for use over underfloor heating. Its layered construction gives it much greater dimensional stability than solid wood when exposed to the heat cycles of a UFH system. We check the specific product compatibility and maximum temperature tolerances for each installation.

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Project Overview This Highgate property had original hardwood floors throughout the main living areas. The floor had been in place for many years and had developed gaps between the boards along with a surface finish that was scratched, dull, and uneven in places. The owners wanted a full sand, professional gap filling, and a fresh lacquer finish that would be durable enough for a busy household. ...

Project Overview

This Highgate property had original hardwood floors throughout the main living areas. The floor had been in place for many years and had developed gaps between the boards along with a surface finish that was scratched, dull, and uneven in places. The owners wanted a full sand, professional gap filling, and a fresh lacquer finish that would be durable enough for a busy household.

The Challenge

The gaps in this floor were significant enough that simply sanding over them would not have produced a satisfactory result. Gaps allow cold draughts, collect debris, and weaken the structural stability of the floor over time. They also look poor once a fresh finish is applied, as the new lacquer highlights any inconsistencies in the surface. The existing finish was also quite thick in areas, suggesting multiple coats had been applied over the years without a full strip back between them. This kind of layering can cause adhesion problems if you simply sand lightly and recoat without removing the build-up properly.

Our Approach

Floor Inspection and Board Stabilisation

We began by checking all the boards for movement and fixing any that had become loose. Boards that flex or creak need to be secured before sanding, otherwise the sanding process can make the issue worse and the finish will crack at the movement points.

Gap Filling

All gaps between the floorboards were filled with a mixture of resin and sawdust, collected during the first pass of sanding so that the colour of the fill closely matches the timber. This method produces a far more natural result than off-the-shelf fillers, which often dry to a noticeably different shade. The resin remains slightly flexible after curing, which means it moves with the wood during seasonal changes rather than cracking out.

Multi-Stage Sanding

With the gaps filled and cured, we worked through a full sanding programme across the whole floor, starting with a grit appropriate for the depth of finish removal needed and finishing with a fine grit to leave a smooth, consistent surface ready for the new finish.

Lacquer Application

Three coats of a hard-wearing water-based lacquer were applied, with light buffing between coats. A water-based product was chosen to give a clear, natural-looking finish that would not yellow over time, which suits the light interior of this property well.

The Result

The floor looks significantly better than when we started. The gaps have gone, the surface is even and smooth, and the lacquer gives solid protection for everyday use. The client noted the difference in the draughtiness of the room, which the gap filling had clearly helped with. Hardwood floor sanding in London is typically priced from around £25 to £45 per square metre, varying with floor condition, area size, and finish type.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does sanded floor lacquer take to dry before furniture can go back?
A water-based lacquer is typically touch-dry within a few hours of each coat, but the floor should be left for at least 24 hours after the final coat before furniture is replaced. Full hardness is usually reached within five to seven days, during which time heavy use should be avoided.

Does gap filling last permanently?
A resin and sawdust fill is long-lasting and much more durable than standard filler, but no gap fill is entirely permanent on a wood floor. Wood moves with the seasons, and over time some gaps may reopen slightly. Most clients find the results last many years before any touch-up is needed.

Can all hardwood floors be sanded, regardless of their age?
Most hardwood floors can be sanded regardless of age, as long as there is enough material remaining above the tongue. We check the board thickness during our initial inspection and will advise if there are any limitations. Very old floors are often in better condition for sanding than people expect.

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Project Overview This Fulham SW6 property had engineered wood flooring that had been in place for several years and was showing significant surface wear. The boards had developed scratches, the original finish was dull and uneven, and some areas close to the kitchen had started to look noticeably worse than the rest. The client wanted the floor sanded back and refinished to restore its appearance ...

Project Overview

This Fulham SW6 property had engineered wood flooring that had been in place for several years and was showing significant surface wear. The boards had developed scratches, the original finish was dull and uneven, and some areas close to the kitchen had started to look noticeably worse than the rest. The client wanted the floor sanded back and refinished to restore its appearance without the cost of replacement.

The Challenge

Sanding engineered wood floors requires more care than sanding solid timber. The wear layer on an engineered board is thinner than on solid wood, so there is less margin for error. Taking off too much material can expose the core layers beneath the veneer, which cannot be finished to a satisfactory standard. We needed to determine the exact thickness of the veneer on this particular product before agreeing to sand it. The floor had a 4mm hardwood veneer, which was sufficient to allow a careful light sand and refinish. Any thinner and we would have advised a different approach.

Our Approach

Veneer Depth Assessment

Before any sanding began, we checked the veneer thickness carefully at the edge of the floor where a board had been partially lifted for inspection. Confirming there was enough material to work with is the most important first step when sanding engineered floors.

Light Sanding Programme

We used a light sanding programme designed specifically for engineered boards, working with finer starting grits than we would typically use on solid wood. This removes the damaged surface layer without cutting deeply into the veneer. Multiple passes with increasing fineness brought the surface to a smooth, consistent condition ready for finishing.

Edge and Detail Work

The edges of the floor close to the skirting and around the doorways were worked by hand using orbital sanders and scrapers to ensure a consistent result across the whole room. These areas are easy to miss or rush, and inconsistency here is immediately obvious on a finished floor.

Finish Application

A hard-wearing lacquer was applied in three coats to provide good protection for daily use. The product was chosen to complement the natural tone of the oak veneer without adding a heavy or artificial sheen to the surface.

The Result

The floor looked noticeably better once the old finish had been removed and the new lacquer applied. The scratches were gone, the colour was even, and the boards looked consistent across the whole room. The client was pleased to have saved the cost of replacement and noted that the floor looked better than it had for several years. Engineered floor sanding in London typically runs from £25 to £40 per square metre, depending on the condition and the veneer depth available.

Frequently Asked Questions

How many times can an engineered floor be sanded?
This depends entirely on the thickness of the veneer. A 2mm wear layer generally allows one careful sand. A 4mm or 6mm layer can be sanded two or possibly three times over the lifetime of the floor. We assess each floor individually before committing to a programme.

What are the signs that an engineered floor needs refinishing rather than replacing?
If the finish is dull, scratched, or worn through but the boards themselves are structurally sound and the veneer is undamaged, refinishing is almost always the better option. It costs significantly less than replacement and produces excellent results when done correctly.

Does sanding void the manufacturer warranty on engineered flooring?
This varies between manufacturers. Some specifically include sanding and refinishing within the product's expected lifecycle, while others have conditions attached. We advise checking the specific warranty terms before proceeding. In most cases, after the initial warranty period, the floor can be refinished without restriction.

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Project Overview This Wimbledon SW20 property had original pine floorboards that had been covered for years and recently exposed by the current owners. The boards were in reasonable structural condition but were heavily discoloured, had an old finish that had worn unevenly, and needed a stain applied to achieve the darker tone the client wanted before varnishing. The project covered the main livin...

Project Overview

This Wimbledon SW20 property had original pine floorboards that had been covered for years and recently exposed by the current owners. The boards were in reasonable structural condition but were heavily discoloured, had an old finish that had worn unevenly, and needed a stain applied to achieve the darker tone the client wanted before varnishing. The project covered the main living room and hallway.

The Challenge

Staining a floor after sanding sounds straightforward but getting a consistent result across a whole room requires careful preparation. Pine is a particularly absorbent and variable timber. It has hard grain lines and soft grain patches that take stain at very different rates. Without proper preparation, these differences become exaggerated and the floor ends up with a patchy, uneven colour rather than the consistent tone the client wants. The floor also had a previous stain in places, which meant the boards needed to be sanded back uniformly before any new colour work could be done.

Our Approach

Full Strip Back

We started with a thorough multi-stage sand, working from coarser grits to completely remove all remnants of the old finish and any existing stain. The goal at this stage is to get back to bare, consistent wood across the entire floor, which is the only way to guarantee a uniform result with staining.

Board Repairs and Gap Filling

Before staining, we addressed any gaps between boards and secured a couple of boards that had become slightly loose. Filling gaps at this stage is important because unfilled gaps will absorb stain differently and look dark and inconsistent in the finished floor.

Stain Application

The stain was applied evenly across the whole floor in the direction of the grain, working in manageable sections to keep a wet edge and avoid lap marks. The client had chosen a mid-dark oak tone that complemented the rest of the room's interior. A second coat was applied to deepen the colour to the agreed shade.

Varnish Coats

Once the stain was fully dry, three coats of a hard-wearing polyurethane varnish were applied. This protects the stain from wear and provides the durable, easy-to-clean surface finish the client needed for a busy family home.

The Result

The finished floor bears no resemblance to the tired, discoloured boards we started with. The stain colour is even and consistent throughout, and the varnish gives a clean, durable surface. The client was particularly pleased with how the darker tone had pulled the room together visually. Floor sanding and finishing in the Wimbledon area typically costs between £25 and £45 per square metre, with staining adding a small amount to the overall price.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can the colour be changed after staining and varnishing?
Yes, but it requires a full sand back to bare wood before a different stain can be applied. Going darker is straightforward. Going lighter requires removing the existing stain entirely through sanding, which takes more time. We always advise testing stain colours on an inconspicuous area before committing to the full floor.

How long does a stained and varnished floor last before it needs redoing?
A well-applied varnish in a domestic setting typically lasts five to ten years in high-traffic areas and considerably longer in rooms with less use. Regular sweeping and occasional damp mopping with a suitable wood floor product will extend the life of the finish significantly.

Is pine a good floor to sand and stain?
Pine is one of the most common floor timbers in London properties and sands and stains well when prepared correctly. It is softer than hardwoods such as oak, so it will show more wear over time, but a good varnish provides adequate protection for most domestic uses. Many clients prefer pine precisely because of its character and grain.

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Project Overview The client at this Streatham Hill SW16 property had selected QuickStep Impressive Ultra Classic Oak Natural laminate flooring and needed it fitted throughout the ground floor. QuickStep Impressive Ultra is one of the better-performing laminate products on the market, with a realistic wood texture and a scratch-resistant surface layer. The installation covered the living room, hall...

Project Overview

The client at this Streatham Hill SW16 property had selected QuickStep Impressive Ultra Classic Oak Natural laminate flooring and needed it fitted throughout the ground floor. QuickStep Impressive Ultra is one of the better-performing laminate products on the market, with a realistic wood texture and a scratch-resistant surface layer. The installation covered the living room, hallway, and a connecting dining area.

The Challenge

The main challenge on this project was the subfloor condition. The property had an older concrete screed base in the hallway and a timber subfloor in the living and dining areas, which meant we were dealing with two different subfloor types in a continuous installation. These different surfaces behave slightly differently, and getting the joint between them right, with consistent levelness on both sides, required careful preparation work before any boards went down. There was also a slight damp reading in one section of the concrete subfloor, which needed addressing before fitting to avoid any issues with the boards over time.

Our Approach

Subfloor Preparation

The concrete areas were checked with a damp meter and treated with a damp-proof membrane where the readings were above the acceptable threshold. Both the concrete and the timber subfloor sections were levelled to within the tolerance required by the QuickStep installation guidelines. Getting this right before the boards go down prevents movement, hollow spots, and joint separation later.

Underlayment

A foam underlayment with built-in vapour barrier was laid across the full floor area. This provides additional sound insulation, a slight cushion underfoot, and a secondary barrier against any residual moisture from the subfloor below.

Board Installation

The boards were fitted using a floating click system, which is the standard installation method for QuickStep Impressive Ultra. We planned the layout to avoid having very narrow cuts at either side of the room and aligned the boards with the main light source to make the most of the grain texture. Expansion gaps were maintained at all walls and fixed elements throughout.

Finishing

All expansion gaps were covered with matching QuickStep beading and threshold strips. The finish details at doorways were given particular attention, as these transitions are where a laminate installation most often looks unfinished if not done carefully.

The Result

The finished floor runs cleanly throughout the ground floor, with a consistent look across both subfloor types. The QuickStep boards have a natural, realistic texture that suits the property well. The client was happy with the result and the level of disruption, which was kept to a single working day for the fitting itself. Laminate floor fitting typically costs between £35 and £55 per square metre for supply and fit of a mid-range product.

Frequently Asked Questions

How does QuickStep Impressive Ultra compare to cheaper laminate products?
The main differences are in the surface texture, wear layer thickness, and the quality of the click joint. Impressive Ultra has a more realistic embossed texture that closely matches the feel of real wood, a thicker wear layer for greater scratch resistance, and a tighter joint that is less prone to movement or separation over time. It is worth the higher cost in a high-traffic area.

Can laminate flooring be repaired if individual boards are damaged?
On a floating installation, individual boards can be replaced without lifting the whole floor, as long as you have spare boards of the same product. This is one of the advantages of a click-fit floating floor. We always recommend keeping a small number of spare boards from the original batch for this reason.

Is laminate suitable for a hallway with a front door?
Laminate can work well in a hallway, but the area directly inside a front door is exposed to more moisture and grit than the rest of the floor. A good underlayment, a moisture-resistant laminate product like Impressive Ultra, and sensible use of a door mat will all extend the life of the floor significantly in this area.

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Project Overview This Mortlake SW14 property had original hardwood floorboards throughout the first floor. The boards had been in place for many years and were showing signs of significant surface wear, with the existing finish scratched through in the heavily trafficked areas and the colour looking faded and inconsistent. The client wanted the floor sanded, stained to a richer colour, and finishe...

Project Overview

This Mortlake SW14 property had original hardwood floorboards throughout the first floor. The boards had been in place for many years and were showing signs of significant surface wear, with the existing finish scratched through in the heavily trafficked areas and the colour looking faded and inconsistent. The client wanted the floor sanded, stained to a richer colour, and finished with a durable lacquer.

The Challenge

This project involved both staining and refinishing, which requires the preparation to be particularly thorough. Any variation in how the boards absorb the stain will be visible in the finished floor, so the sand needs to be consistent right across the room. The floorboards also had some gaps that needed addressing before work started, as unfilled gaps absorb stain at a different rate and create obvious dark lines in the finished colour. There were also a few boards in the hallway area that had developed some surface checking, which required careful treatment before staining to prevent the cracks from showing through the finish.

Our Approach

Inspection and Repairs

We started with a full assessment of the floor condition. Loose boards were fixed down, gaps between boards were filled with a resin and sawdust mix, and the surface checking on the affected boards was treated before sanding began. Carrying out repairs before sanding rather than after gives a much better result as the repaired areas blend into the sanded surface cleanly.

Full Sand Back

The floor was sanded back to bare wood in stages, working from coarser to finer grits across the whole area. The goal was a completely uniform, bare surface with no remnants of the old finish. Only from this base can a stain be applied evenly.

Staining

The chosen stain was a warm mid-brown tone that the client had selected to complement the property's interior. We applied it in the direction of the grain, maintaining a wet edge throughout to avoid any lines or patches in the colour. A second coat was applied in the hallway area, where the boards had a slightly more open grain and needed the extra depth of colour.

Lacquer Finish

Three coats of a hard-wearing lacquer were applied over the dried stain, with light buffing between each coat. The result is a surface that protects the stain and provides good resistance to everyday wear and spills.

The Result

The transformation was striking. The floor came from a worn, faded surface to a richly coloured, even finish that suited the property well. Gaps and surface damage had been addressed, and the lacquer gave a clean, protective finish throughout. The client was very pleased with the result. Wood floor sanding and refinishing in SW14 and the surrounding area typically costs between £25 and £45 per square metre, with staining adding a modest increment to the overall price.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does a stained and lacquered floor need before it can be walked on?
The floor can usually be walked on carefully after 24 hours from the final coat. However, for normal furniture use, we recommend waiting at least 48 to 72 hours. Full cure is typically reached after five to seven days, during which time rugs and heavy furniture should be kept off.

Will staining the floor make it harder to maintain?
Stained and lacquered floors are maintained in exactly the same way as any lacquered floor. Regular sweeping and occasional damp mopping with a wood-safe cleaner are all that is needed. The lacquer protects the stain, so the colour does not fade with normal cleaning.

Can I change the stain colour in future if my tastes change?
Yes. The floor can be sanded back and restained to a different colour at any time, as long as there is sufficient board thickness remaining. Going to a darker shade is straightforward. Going lighter requires a more thorough sand to fully remove the existing colour from the wood fibres.

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Project Overview This Clapton E5 project combined a new oak parquet floor installation with full sanding and refinishing of the laid floor. The client was having a new herringbone parquet floor put down in the main ground floor reception room, and wanted the installation, sanding, and finishing all handled as a single project. Oak parquet blocks were specified, laid in the traditional herringbone ...

Project Overview

This Clapton E5 project combined a new oak parquet floor installation with full sanding and refinishing of the laid floor. The client was having a new herringbone parquet floor put down in the main ground floor reception room, and wanted the installation, sanding, and finishing all handled as a single project. Oak parquet blocks were specified, laid in the traditional herringbone pattern, then sanded and finished to a natural lacquer once the adhesive had fully cured.

The Challenge

Installing and then sanding a new parquet floor involves careful sequencing. The blocks must be fully bonded to the subfloor before any sanding takes place, otherwise the sanding process can lift blocks or cause them to move and leave gaps. The adhesive cure time needs to be respected rather than rushed, which means the project takes longer than either installation or sanding alone. The subfloor in this property also needed plywood overlay work to bring it up to the flatness required for a glued parquet installation. Parquet is far less forgiving of subfloor irregularities than a floating engineered board, so this preparation stage could not be skipped.

Our Approach

Subfloor Preparation

We installed a plywood subfloor overlay across the full room, secured and flat, to provide the base needed for a glued parquet installation. The surface was checked with a long straight edge at multiple points to confirm it was within the tolerance required.

Parquet Block Installation

The herringbone pattern was set out from the centre of the room to ensure the pattern sits symmetrically. Oak parquet blocks were bonded to the prepared subfloor using a flexible wood floor adhesive, which provides the bond needed while allowing a small degree of movement as the timber responds to changes in room conditions. The full room was completed before the floor was left to cure.

Sanding the New Floor

Once the adhesive had fully cured, we sanded the floor following the correct diagonal approach for herringbone parquet. New parquet blocks often have slight height variations between individual pieces, so the initial sanding pass works to level the surface before the finishing passes refine it. The result is a flat, consistent surface across the whole room.

Finishing

A natural-tone hardwearing lacquer was applied in three coats to protect the new oak floor. The finish was chosen to let the natural colour and grain of the oak read clearly without adding any artificial tint.

The Result

The finished herringbone floor is a significant upgrade to the room. The pattern reads well in the space, the oak colour is warm and consistent, and the finish provides good protection for daily use. The client was pleased with the quality of the work and the way the installation was managed as a single cohesive project. Parquet installation and sanding in London typically costs from £70 to £100 per square metre for supply, fit, sand, and finish, reflecting the additional skill and time required compared to a straightforward strip board installation.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does new parquet adhesive need to cure before sanding?
This depends on the specific adhesive product used, the ambient temperature, and the subfloor conditions. Most wood floor adhesives require a minimum of 24 to 48 hours before sanding can begin, and some two-component adhesives need longer. We always follow the manufacturer's guidance and will not rush this stage.

Is new parquet more expensive than engineered boards?
Parquet installation is generally at the higher end of wood floor pricing because of the additional skill required in laying the pattern, the adhesive bonding process, and the specialist sanding approach. For a herringbone oak parquet installed, sanded, and finished, you can expect to pay from around £70 to £100 per square metre as a guide.

How should a new oak parquet floor be maintained long term?
Regular sweeping and occasional damp mopping with a wood-compatible cleaner is sufficient for day-to-day maintenance. Avoid excess water on the surface. Felt pads under furniture legs prevent scratches. The floor should be refinished when the lacquer shows signs of wear, typically every five to ten years depending on use.

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Project Overview This Fortis Green property had original hardwood floorboards that had sustained a fair amount of damage over the years, including several boards that were beyond simple restoration and needed replacing, along with significant gaps throughout, surface wear, and loss of finish. The project involved a combination of board replacement, gap filling, full sanding, and refinishing to bri...

Project Overview

This Fortis Green property had original hardwood floorboards that had sustained a fair amount of damage over the years, including several boards that were beyond simple restoration and needed replacing, along with significant gaps throughout, surface wear, and loss of finish. The project involved a combination of board replacement, gap filling, full sanding, and refinishing to bring the floor back to a consistent, well-finished standard.

The Challenge

Renovation and repair work on older floors is always more complex than a straightforward sand and finish because you are dealing with the floor's history rather than starting from a blank canvas. Matching replacement boards to the existing timber is one of the more difficult parts, as the original floorboards in older properties are often a specific width, species, or grade that does not correspond directly to anything currently available off the shelf. Getting a close enough match that the repaired sections are not immediately obvious after sanding is a key part of the craftwork on projects like this.

Our Approach

Assessment and Board Replacement

We started with a full inspection of every board to determine which ones could be restored through sanding and gap filling, and which were too damaged or structurally compromised to keep. The boards requiring replacement were carefully removed and new boards were sourced to match as closely as possible in species, width, and thickness. These were fitted and secured in place before any sanding began.

Gap Filling

Once all board replacements were complete, the gaps throughout the floor were filled with a resin and sawdust mixture. This was collected during the first sanding pass to ensure the colour of the fill matched the existing timber. All gaps were properly filled and left to cure before progressing to the finishing sanding stages.

Multi-Stage Sanding

The full floor was sanded in stages, working from coarser grits to progressively finer ones. The replacement boards were blended into the existing floor surface during this process, and by the time the final fine-grit pass was complete, the new and old boards read as a consistent, unified floor surface.

Refinishing

Two coats of a hard-wearing lacquer were applied to protect the floor and provide a consistent finish across the whole area. The finish was chosen to complement the natural colour of the timber and give a clean, durable surface for everyday use.

The Result

The renovation was successful in bringing a worn and damaged floor back into good condition. The replaced boards blend well with the original ones, the gaps are gone, and the finished surface looks consistent and well-protected. The client was pleased with both the end result and the way potential problems had been identified and dealt with at the start. Renovation and repair work in London is typically priced alongside standard sanding rates of £25 to £45 per square metre, with additional costs depending on the extent of board replacement required.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do you match replacement boards to an older floor?
We source materials from specialist timber suppliers who stock reclaimed and period-matched flooring. The match is rarely perfect until the floor has been sanded, at which point the age difference in the timber becomes much less noticeable. The grain and colour tend to blend well under a consistent finish.

Is it worth repairing an old floor rather than replacing it entirely?
In most cases, yes, particularly with older properties where the original boards have character that modern replacements cannot replicate. Repair and renovation is also significantly cheaper than full replacement. We always provide an honest assessment of whether renovation will achieve the result the client wants before any work begins.

How long does a floor renovation like this take?
A project combining board replacement, gap filling, and full sanding and finishing typically takes two to three days for a standard room, depending on the extent of repairs needed. We always give a realistic timeline after the initial assessment.

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Project Overview This Willesden property needed new flooring fitted in the kitchen and hallway. The client had chosen luxury vinyl plank flooring, which offers the appearance of real wood with much greater resistance to moisture and heavy use. The existing floor covering was removed as part of the project, the subfloor was prepared, and the new vinyl planks were installed throughout both areas. T...

Project Overview

This Willesden property needed new flooring fitted in the kitchen and hallway. The client had chosen luxury vinyl plank flooring, which offers the appearance of real wood with much greater resistance to moisture and heavy use. The existing floor covering was removed as part of the project, the subfloor was prepared, and the new vinyl planks were installed throughout both areas.

The Challenge

The kitchen and hallway in this property presented a couple of practical challenges. First, the existing floor covering had left behind adhesive residue in places, which needed to be removed before a new floor could be laid on top. Second, the transition between the kitchen and hallway had a slight level difference, which needed to be addressed to avoid an obvious bump or lip in the finished floor. Modern luxury vinyl planks are thinner than most other floor types, which means subfloor imperfections can telegraph through to the surface more readily if the base is not properly prepared.

Our Approach

Removal of Existing Covering and Subfloor Preparation

The old flooring was removed and the subfloor was cleaned down to remove all adhesive residue and debris. The level difference between the two rooms was addressed using a self-levelling compound to create a continuous, flat base. Once the levelling compound had set and been checked, the subfloor was in the condition needed to proceed.

Moisture Assessment

Before installation, we tested for moisture levels in the concrete subfloor. Vinyl planks are highly moisture resistant on their surface, but excess moisture rising through a concrete subfloor can cause adhesion problems or allow mould to develop under the floor if not managed correctly. Readings were within the acceptable range and no additional treatment was required.

Vinyl Plank Installation

The vinyl planks were installed using a floating click system, which allows the floor to be fitted quickly without adhesive and makes future replacement of individual damaged planks straightforward. The layout was planned to avoid narrow cut pieces at the visible entry points and to run the boards in the direction of the main light source.

Finishing

Matching threshold strips and end trims were fitted at all transitions and doorways to give the installation a clean, finished appearance. Trim details make a significant visual difference to the finished result.

The Result

The finished floor looks clean and consistent across the kitchen and hallway, with a good visual transition between the two spaces. The luxury vinyl plank product chosen gives a convincing wood-look result at a fraction of the cost of real wood, and its performance in a kitchen environment will outlast most alternative options. Vinyl floor fitting is typically one of the more cost-effective flooring options available, generally falling between £35 and £55 per square metre for supply and fit of a mid-grade luxury vinyl product.

Frequently Asked Questions

How does luxury vinyl plank compare to laminate in a kitchen?
The main advantage of vinyl over laminate in a kitchen or any wet area is its full waterproofing. Laminate products, even moisture-resistant ones, can swell or delaminate if they are regularly exposed to water. Luxury vinyl planks are completely waterproof and will handle spills, splashes, and cleaning without any risk of damage.

Can vinyl flooring be fitted over existing tiles?
In most cases, yes. As long as the existing tiles are firmly bonded and the surface is reasonably level, vinyl planks can be fitted directly over the top. This can save the cost and disruption of tile removal. The existing tile surface does need to be checked carefully for any proud grout lines or uneven areas that could show through.

How long does luxury vinyl plank flooring last?
A good quality luxury vinyl plank with a proper wear layer should last fifteen to twenty years or more under normal domestic use. The wear layer thickness is the key specification to check when selecting a product. A 0.3mm wear layer is adequate for light use; 0.5mm or above is recommended for kitchens, hallways, and other high-traffic areas.

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Project Overview This Slough property had hardwood floorboards throughout the ground floor that had been previously finished with an oil product. The oil had worn down significantly in the main traffic routes, leaving the floor looking dry and patchy, with the wood lacking the protection and appearance it had when newly finished. The client wanted a full sand, buff, and fresh oil application to re...

Project Overview

This Slough property had hardwood floorboards throughout the ground floor that had been previously finished with an oil product. The oil had worn down significantly in the main traffic routes, leaving the floor looking dry and patchy, with the wood lacking the protection and appearance it had when newly finished. The client wanted a full sand, buff, and fresh oil application to restore the floor.

The Challenge

Re-oiling an oil-finished floor that has worn unevenly is more complex than it sounds. Simply applying fresh oil over a partially worn surface would result in patchy absorption, with the areas where the old oil has fully worn off absorbing far more product than the areas where some residual oil remains. This produces an uneven finish rather than the consistent result the client wants. The correct approach is to sand back to bare wood evenly first, then apply the new oil from a uniform starting point. For buffing, the floor also needs to be properly prepared so the buff can work the oil into the surface evenly without disturbing the finish before it has set.

Our Approach

Sanding

We began with a full sanding programme to strip the old oil finish back to bare wood consistently across the whole floor. This involved working through multiple grit stages, starting with a grit appropriate to the depth of the existing finish and finishing with a fine grit that left the surface clean, smooth, and ready for oiling.

Dust Removal

Before any oil was applied, the floor was vacuumed thoroughly and wiped down with a tack cloth to remove all residual sanding dust. Even small amounts of dust trapped in an oil finish will create a gritty texture in the cured surface and should not be cut short.

Oil Application and Buffing

The first coat of oil was applied across the full floor and left to absorb into the wood for the recommended time before the excess was buffed off using a buffing machine fitted with a white pad. The buffing process drives the oil deeper into the wood fibres and removes any standing excess that would otherwise dry tacky on the surface. A second coat was applied and buffed in the same way to achieve the depth of protection and sheen the client wanted.

The Result

The finished floor had a warm, natural appearance with an even, consistent oil finish throughout. The wood grain was clearly visible, the surface felt smooth underfoot, and the oil provided good protection without the plastic appearance of a lacquer finish. The client was very satisfied with the result and appreciated the natural feel of the oil compared to the alternative finishes available. Sanding and oiling in the Slough area typically costs between £25 and £40 per square metre depending on floor condition and area size.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do you maintain an oiled floor after it has been professionally re-oiled?
Day-to-day cleaning with a slightly damp mop and a wood-safe cleaning product is all that is needed. Periodically, typically every one to two years, a maintenance oil coat can be applied without a full sand. This is a quick process the homeowner can often do themselves with the right product.

Is an oil finish or a lacquer finish better for hardwood floorboards?
Both are widely used and both have their strengths. Lacquer gives a harder, more protective surface that is easier to clean in high-traffic areas. Oil gives a more natural look and feel, is easier to touch up in a localised area, and tends to suit the character of older properties better. The best choice depends on the level of traffic, the look the client wants, and how much ongoing maintenance they are willing to do.

Can you oil over an existing lacquered floor?
No. Oil and lacquer are not compatible. If a floor has been lacquered, the lacquer must be fully removed by sanding before an oil finish can be applied. Applying oil over a lacquer finish will not penetrate the wood and will not produce a satisfactory result.

Have a similar project? Call us on 020 88309782 or Book a Free Site Visit