Floor Sanding Case Studies

Project Overview Our Stockwell clients requested a full restoration package for their engineered wood floor, covering sanding, buffing, lacquering and gap filling. They also asked us to move furniture before we started and return it once we had finished. The floor had seen heavy use over a number of years and had several visible gaps between boards, areas of worn lacquer, and a general dullness th...

Project Overview

Our Stockwell clients requested a full restoration package for their engineered wood floor, covering sanding, buffing, lacquering and gap filling. They also asked us to move furniture before we started and return it once we had finished. The floor had seen heavy use over a number of years and had several visible gaps between boards, areas of worn lacquer, and a general dullness that no amount of cleaning could fix. The aim was to bring it back to a condition close to new without replacing the boards.

The Challenge

Combining gap filling with sanding and lacquering requires careful sequencing. Fill too early and the sanding process can pull filler out. Fill after sanding but before lacquering is the correct approach, but the filler must be fully dry before the lacquer goes on or the finish will bubble. Getting the colour match right on the gap filler is also important -- the wrong colour draws the eye and looks worse than no filler at all. The gaps on this floor were mostly in the middle of the room where movement had been greatest, and they varied in width, which required blending filler to get a close colour match to the board.

Our Approach

• Furniture clearance: We moved all furniture to one side of each room in stages to allow continuous working.
• Initial sanding: Drum sanding along the grain removed the old lacquer and flattened the surface, including slight ridges at a few board edges.
• Edge and detail work: Edge sanders and hand tools addressed the perimeter and any tight spots.
• Gap filling: We prepared a sawdust-and-resin filler matched to the board colour and worked it into the gaps, then allowed it to cure before continuing.
• Buffing: A fine-grit buff over the entire surface brought the wood to an even finish ready for lacquering.
• Lacquering: Two coats of water-based lacquer were applied with a light sand between coats to ensure good adhesion and a hard-wearing surface.
• Furniture return: Everything was put back in position and the rooms were handed back clean.

The Result

The floor came up exceptionally well. The gaps had disappeared and the lacquer gave the whole surface a clean, consistent sheen. The clients commented that the floor looked better than it had when they first moved in. For sanding, gap filling and relacquering a floor in this condition, costs generally sit between £25 and £45 per square metre, making it a very cost-effective alternative to replacement.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can gaps in engineered wood flooring be prevented?
Some seasonal movement and minor gapping is normal in wood floors as boards expand and contract with humidity changes. Keeping indoor humidity between 45% and 65% year-round reduces movement significantly. Wide or persistent gaps usually indicate a fitting or subfloor issue and are worth addressing properly.

What type of lacquer do you use?
We primarily use water-based lacquers, which have lower odour than solvent-based products, dry faster between coats and produce a hard-wearing finish. For clients who prefer an oil finish, we can offer Danish oil or hardwax oil alternatives.

Do you cover Stockwell and the surrounding area?
Yes. We work across south London including Stockwell, Brixton, Clapham and the wider SW postcode area. Contact us to arrange a free survey.

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Project Overview This project in Wandsworth involved sanding, buffing, lacquering and gap filling a solid hardwood floor across multiple areas of a property. The building was a converted space with original hardwood laid many years ago, and the floor had accumulated a lot of surface damage over that time. It had not been professionally sanded in some years, and visible gaps had opened up between b...

Project Overview

This project in Wandsworth involved sanding, buffing, lacquering and gap filling a solid hardwood floor across multiple areas of a property. The building was a converted space with original hardwood laid many years ago, and the floor had accumulated a lot of surface damage over that time. It had not been professionally sanded in some years, and visible gaps had opened up between boards. Our team was brought in to carry out a full restoration, returning the floor to a strong, flat and well-finished surface.

The Challenge

The floor presented a few complications. There were areas of deeper scratching and some boards had cupped slightly due to past moisture exposure. Cupped boards need to be sanded down carefully so the high edges are brought level without over-sanding the centre of each board. The gaps were also quite pronounced in some sections, which required a substantial amount of gap filling and careful colour matching. Getting all of this right before lacquering was essential to a good end result.

Our Approach

• Inspection and prep: We walked the floor before starting, checking for raised nails, loose boards and any boards that had cupped or warped. Raised nails were punched down to prevent sander damage.
• Coarse sanding pass: A 40-grit pass with the drum sander levelled the cupped areas and removed the bulk of the old finish and surface damage.
• Medium and fine passes: Progressive grits brought the surface down to a consistent, smooth finish ready for gap filling.
• Gap filling: Filler was mixed to match the board colour and pressed into all significant gaps. Once cured, a final fine-grit pass over the filled areas created a flush surface.
• Buffing: A full buff of the floor prepared the grain for lacquer application.
• Lacquering: Two coats of protective lacquer were applied and allowed to cure between applications.

The Result

The finished floor was flat, clean and consistent throughout. The cupped boards were no longer visible and the gaps had been closed to a neat, matching finish. The lacquer brought out the natural grain of the hardwood and left the surface well protected for years ahead. Professional sanding and gap filling in London typically costs between £25 and £45 per square metre depending on floor condition, making this an excellent investment compared with full floor replacement.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can cupped floorboards be fixed without replacement?
In most cases, yes. If the cupping has been caused by a moisture event that has since resolved, the boards will often flatten naturally over time and sanding can correct any residual unevenness. If the moisture source is ongoing, that needs to be addressed first or the boards will cup again.

How long does a sanding job of this type take?
For a medium-sized residential floor, sanding, gap filling and lacquering typically takes two to three days. The floor needs to be clear of furniture and the property should be well ventilated throughout.

Do you work in commercial properties as well as residential?
Yes, we work in both. Commercial projects such as offices, shops and community halls are a regular part of our workload. We can arrange out-of-hours work where needed.

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Project Overview This Golders Green project centred on a traditional herringbone parquet floor in need of full restoration. The parquet had been laid years earlier and had become heavily scratched, stained in places and stripped of its protective finish in high-traffic areas. The clients wanted the floor stained to a richer tone than the original and refinished to a hard gloss. Our team approached...

Project Overview

This Golders Green project centred on a traditional herringbone parquet floor in need of full restoration. The parquet had been laid years earlier and had become heavily scratched, stained in places and stripped of its protective finish in high-traffic areas. The clients wanted the floor stained to a richer tone than the original and refinished to a hard gloss. Our team approached this as a precision job from start to finish, given the complexity of the herringbone pattern and the need to sand across multiple angles without leaving visible sanding marks.

The Challenge

Parquet floors present a specific challenge for sanding because the blocks run in multiple directions. Sanding along the grain of one set of blocks puts you across the grain of the adjacent set. This means working at a diagonal to the pattern is often necessary, followed by careful fine-grit passes and buffing to remove any cross-grain marks. Any sanding marks left on a parquet floor become very visible once stain is applied, so the preparation has to be thorough. The staining also required even application across the whole floor to avoid blotching, particularly where some blocks were more porous than others.

Our Approach

• Assessment: We checked every block for stability before sanding began. Any loose blocks were re-adhered and allowed to bond fully before the machine sanding started.
• Diagonal sanding: The first machine pass ran diagonally across the herringbone pattern to cut through the old finish and surface damage without tearing along one grain direction only.
• Along-pattern passes: Progressive finer grits were then used in the direction of the pattern to remove any diagonal marks from the first pass.
• Hand sanding: Border blocks and corners were sanded by hand to ensure consistency with the main field.
• Staining: A dark wood stain was applied evenly and worked into the grain with a cloth before being allowed to penetrate fully. A second coat was applied to areas that required greater depth of colour.
• Lacquering: Three coats of lacquer were applied to build a hard, high-gloss finish appropriate for a parquet of this quality.

The Result

The restored parquet looked exceptional. The rich stain brought out the geometry of the herringbone pattern and the three-coat lacquer produced a deep, reflective finish. The clients were delighted with how dramatically the room had changed without any structural work at all. Parquet sanding and refinishing in London typically runs between £70 and £100 per square metre given the additional labour involved in working with the pattern. It is, however, significantly cheaper than relaying a new parquet floor and produces outstanding results on a well-laid original.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can you change the colour of a parquet floor with staining?
Yes. Staining allows you to go darker than the natural wood tone. Going lighter requires bleaching, which is a more involved process. We can provide stain samples on a small test area before committing to the full floor.

How many coats of lacquer does a parquet floor need?
For a high-traffic residential area, we recommend at least three coats. The first seals the wood and stain, the second builds the protective layer, and the third gives the final surface hardness and sheen.

Is my parquet floor worth restoring if some blocks are loose?
Usually yes, provided the majority of the floor is sound. Loose blocks can be re-glued as part of the preparation stage. We only recommend replacement where a significant proportion of blocks are damaged beyond saving.

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Project Overview This Putney project covered the full process of hardwood floor installation followed by sanding and staining to the client's chosen finish. The clients had decided on unfinished hardwood boards rather than pre-finished, which gave them the freedom to choose an exact stain colour and finish level on site after fitting. We handled the complete job from subfloor preparation through t...

Project Overview

This Putney project covered the full process of hardwood floor installation followed by sanding and staining to the client's chosen finish. The clients had decided on unfinished hardwood boards rather than pre-finished, which gave them the freedom to choose an exact stain colour and finish level on site after fitting. We handled the complete job from subfloor preparation through to final lacquering, working across several interconnected rooms in the property.

The Challenge

Installing unfinished hardwood and finishing it on site requires two separate site visits with a dry period in between to allow the boards to acclimatise fully after fitting before any sanding begins. If you sand too soon after fitting, the boards may still be adjusting to the room's humidity and temperature, which can lead to an uneven surface after the finish goes on. The staining added another consideration -- the clients wanted a mid-tone warm colour that still showed the grain clearly rather than masking it with a very dark pigment. Getting this balance right took some testing on offcuts before committing to the full floor.

Our Approach

• Acclimatisation: Boards were delivered and stacked in the property several days before fitting, allowing the wood to adjust to the internal conditions.
• Subfloor check: The existing subfloor was checked for level and any high points addressed before boards went down.
• Installation: Hardwood boards were secret-nailed to the subfloor, working from a straight baseline and staggering joins between rows by at least 300mm.
• Post-fit wait: We allowed the floor to settle for several days before returning to sand.
• Sanding: A progressive sequence from coarse to fine grit produced a smooth, even surface across all rooms.
• Staining: The agreed warm mid-tone stain was applied evenly and allowed to penetrate fully before the first lacquer coat.
• Lacquering: Two coats of matt lacquer were applied to protect the stain and leave a natural-looking finish.

The Result

The finished floor was exactly what the clients had in mind. The stain gave a rich, warm tone that complemented the existing decor and the matt lacquer kept the look natural rather than overly shiny. Fitting unfinished hardwood and finishing it on site costs more in time and labour than a pre-finished board but gives a result that is genuinely tailored to the space. Fitting costs run between £35 and £60 per square metre, with sanding and finishing adding to that depending on the specification chosen.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why choose unfinished hardwood over pre-finished boards?
Unfinished boards let you choose the exact colour and sheen level to suit your room after fitting. There are also no factory finish edges between boards, which means the finished surface sits completely flat. The trade-off is a longer overall project timeline.

How long does the full process take from installation to final finish?
Installation typically takes one to two days for a medium room. After a settling period of several days, sanding and finishing takes another one to two days. Allow at least a week from fitting to fully finished floor.

Can you match a stain to floors in an adjacent room?
Yes, in most cases. We can test stain combinations on offcuts or a concealed area to get as close as possible to an existing floor tone. Exact matching is not always achievable depending on species and age of the existing floor, but a close match is usually possible.

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Project Overview This project in Brixton tackled a solid wood floor that had been through significant wear and some localised physical damage. Several boards had cracked or split and a few sections had areas of surface staining from water ingress. The clients had been told by another contractor that the floor needed replacing, but we assessed it and confirmed that repair, sanding and refinishing w...

Project Overview

This project in Brixton tackled a solid wood floor that had been through significant wear and some localised physical damage. Several boards had cracked or split and a few sections had areas of surface staining from water ingress. The clients had been told by another contractor that the floor needed replacing, but we assessed it and confirmed that repair, sanding and refinishing would bring it back to a high standard. We replaced the boards that were beyond saving, sanded the whole floor back to bare wood, filled gaps and refinished with a protective oil.

The Challenge

When repairing a floor with replacement boards, the new timber needs to be matched as closely as possible to the existing species and profile. If the match is poor, the repaired sections will stand out permanently. This floor used a standard oak profile that was still available, which made sourcing straightforward. The greater challenge was the water staining on several boards -- sanding removed the surface discolouration in most cases but two boards had deeper penetration and needed full replacement. Getting the sanded surface level across old and new boards also required care.

Our Approach

• Inspection: A full walk of the floor to mark boards for replacement versus those that could be saved with sanding.
• Board replacement: Damaged boards were carefully lifted without disturbing adjacent boards, and matching replacement boards were cut and fitted.
• Gap filling: Gaps throughout the floor were filled with a matched compound and left to cure.
• Sanding: The full floor was sanded progressively to flatten any height differences between old and new boards and achieve a consistent surface.
• Finishing: A hardwax oil was applied in two coats, which penetrates the wood rather than sitting on top of it, giving a natural feel underfoot and good resistance to everyday wear.

The Result

The floor was saved entirely. The repaired areas were almost invisible once sanded and oiled, and the overall condition of the floor was transformed. The clients were relieved to avoid the cost and disruption of full replacement. Repair, sanding and refinishing a floor in this state costs between £25 and £45 per square metre for the sanding element, plus materials for any board replacements required. In most cases this is dramatically cheaper than new flooring and the structural integrity of an old solid wood floor is often superior to what is available as new.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do you know whether a floor can be repaired or needs replacing?
We assess the extent of structural damage, the number of boards beyond saving and the overall thickness remaining on the boards. If more than a third of the floor needs replacing, the economics of repair versus replacement start to shift. We give an honest assessment at the survey stage.

What is hardwax oil and how does it compare to lacquer?
Hardwax oil penetrates the wood fibre rather than forming a film on top. It gives a more natural, matte feel and is easy to spot-repair if the surface gets scratched. Lacquer is harder and shinier but requires full resanding if heavily damaged. Both are good options depending on the look and usage required.

Do you cover the Brixton area?
Yes. We work across Brixton and the wider south London area on a regular basis. Call us or fill in the enquiry form to arrange a free survey.

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Project Overview This laminate floor installation in Fulham covered the main living and hallway areas of a modern flat. The clients had decided on laminate for a combination of reasons: budget, ease of maintenance, and a wide choice of styles that matched the contemporary interior design they were going for. The existing floor was a mix of old carpet and vinyl that both needed to come out before t...

Project Overview

This laminate floor installation in Fulham covered the main living and hallway areas of a modern flat. The clients had decided on laminate for a combination of reasons: budget, ease of maintenance, and a wide choice of styles that matched the contemporary interior design they were going for. The existing floor was a mix of old carpet and vinyl that both needed to come out before the laminate could go down. We handled the full job from strip-out to finished floor.

The Challenge

Laminate installation in a flat requires particular attention to the acoustic underlay specification. Most leasehold flats in London have requirements in the lease around impact sound reduction, and fitting without an adequate underlay can cause problems with neighbours and the building management. We checked the lease requirements and specified an acoustic underlay that met the relevant standard. The existing subfloor was also uneven in the hallway area, which needed addressing before the laminate boards could lie flat without any movement or hollow spots.

Our Approach

• Strip-out: Existing carpet, gripper rods and vinyl were removed and disposed of, leaving clean subfloor throughout.
• Subfloor preparation: The hallway subfloor was levelled using a self-levelling compound to remove dips and provide a stable, flat base.
• Underlay: An acoustic underlay meeting the building's specification was laid across the entire area to be floored.
• Laminate installation: Boards were laid using a floating click-lock method, starting from the most visible wall and working across the room. Joints were staggered throughout and expansion gaps were maintained at all walls.
• Trims and transitions: Scotia beading was fitted at all skirting junctions and transition strips installed at doorways and between different floor areas.

The Result

The finished floor looked sharp and fitted the flat's aesthetic perfectly. The clients were particularly pleased with how much brighter and larger the hallway appeared. Laminate flooring installation in London typically costs between £35 and £60 per square metre for supply and fit, making it one of the most accessible flooring options available. It is durable, easy to clean and available in hundreds of designs to suit any interior.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can laminate flooring be fitted over existing tiles or vinyl?
In many cases yes, provided the existing surface is level, secure and not too high. We assess this at the survey stage and advise whether overlay is suitable or whether strip-out is the better option.

Is laminate flooring suitable for kitchens and bathrooms?
Standard laminate is not waterproof but many modern boards have moisture-resistant cores that can tolerate occasional splashes. For wet rooms, we would generally recommend luxury vinyl tile (LVT) instead, which is fully waterproof.

How long does laminate installation take for a typical flat?
A two to three bedroom flat is usually completeable in one day for fitting alone. If strip-out and subfloor work are needed, allow two days.

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Project Overview This wood floor project in Stockwell involved repairing a significantly worn and damaged solid wood floor before refinishing and staining it to a new colour. The floor had not been professionally maintained for many years and showed cracked boards, a broken finish, deep scratches and some surface staining. The owners had considered replacing the floor entirely but asked us to asse...

Project Overview

This wood floor project in Stockwell involved repairing a significantly worn and damaged solid wood floor before refinishing and staining it to a new colour. The floor had not been professionally maintained for many years and showed cracked boards, a broken finish, deep scratches and some surface staining. The owners had considered replacing the floor entirely but asked us to assess it first. Our view was that the structural quality of the underlying boards was still good and that a full repair and refinish would deliver an excellent result.

The Challenge

Floors in this condition present multiple challenges at once. The cracked and split boards needed replacing before any sanding could start. Some of the deeper scratches went through the full thickness of the original finish and into the wood, which meant the sanding had to go deep enough to fully remove them. The staining added another variable -- the clients wanted a darker tone than the original wood but the replacement boards needed to take the stain at the same rate as the older, more weathered boards. This required some careful preparation of the new boards to open the grain and ensure even uptake.

Our Approach

• Board assessment and replacement: Each damaged board was marked during inspection. Boards beyond saving were lifted and replaced with matching profile timber.
• Coarse sanding: An aggressive first pass removed the old finish, corrected surface height differences and removed the deep scratch damage.
• Progressive sanding: Medium and fine passes brought the surface to a smooth, even condition across all areas including the repaired sections.
• New board preparation: The replacement boards were lightly sanded by hand before staining to open the grain and help them absorb the stain evenly.
• Staining: A darker wood stain was applied to the whole floor in even strokes and worked into the grain. A second coat was applied to areas that needed more depth.
• Lacquering: Two coats of satin lacquer were applied to protect the stain and give a finish that held up to daily use.

The Result

The floor came back looking far better than the clients had anticipated. The repaired boards blended in well under the stain and the darker colour gave the room a warmer, more contemporary feel. The whole job cost a fraction of what a replacement floor would have been and delivered a more characterful result. Professional sanding, staining and refinishing in London runs between £25 and £45 per square metre, with board replacement costed separately depending on the number of boards required.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can you match replacement boards to an old floor?
We do our best to source a matching species and profile. Staining makes this significantly easier as the colour correction helps blend old and new boards. For floors where no stain is being applied, the match will be close but the replacement boards will be visibly newer until they age naturally.

Does staining a floor make it harder to maintain?
No. A stained and lacquered floor maintains exactly the same way as any lacquered floor. Sweep regularly, clean with a slightly damp mop and avoid harsh chemicals. The stain is sealed under the lacquer and is not affected by normal cleaning.

Is Stockwell covered by your service area?
Yes. We regularly work in Stockwell, Clapham, Brixton, Vauxhall and the surrounding areas of south London.

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Project Overview This project in Walworth involved fitting engineered wood flooring with an acoustic underlay across the main floor of a first-floor flat. The clients had an older, worn floor that they wanted to replace with a stylish but practical alternative. They chose a rustic-grade engineered oak for its character and warmth, and our recommendation to use a high-performance acoustic underlay ...

Project Overview

This project in Walworth involved fitting engineered wood flooring with an acoustic underlay across the main floor of a first-floor flat. The clients had an older, worn floor that they wanted to replace with a stylish but practical alternative. They chose a rustic-grade engineered oak for its character and warmth, and our recommendation to use a high-performance acoustic underlay was accepted immediately, given their concern about noise impact on the flat below. The job covered the living room, hallway and two bedrooms.

The Challenge

The main challenge on this project was meeting the building's noise reduction requirements while also keeping the floor height increase to a minimum. High-performance acoustic underlays are thicker than standard foam underlays, which adds height. In this flat, several doorframes had limited clearance and we had to confirm the finished floor height before proceeding to ensure doors would clear the new surface. A couple of doors required the bottoms trimming once the floor was in, which we carried out on site.

Our Approach

• Strip-out: The old flooring was removed and the subfloor inspected for level and stability.
• Door height check: All internal doors were measured against the planned finished floor height to identify which ones would need trimming.
• Acoustic underlay: The specified acoustic underlay was laid and taped at all joints to form a continuous layer, providing both impact sound and thermal insulation.
• Engineered wood fitting: Rustic oak engineered boards were laid using a floating click-lock method, maintaining consistent expansion gaps at all walls and fixed points.
• Door trimming: Two internal doors were planed along the bottom edge on site to clear the new floor level.
• Trims: Matching beading and transition strips were fitted throughout to give a clean finish at all edges.

The Result

The finished floor looked excellent and the acoustic performance was immediately apparent -- the clients noticed a significant reduction in the hollow sound underfoot compared with the previous flooring. The rustic oak character added warmth and personality to the rooms. Engineered wood flooring supply and fit in London typically costs between £35 and £60 per square metre depending on the grade and profile chosen, with acoustic underlays adding a modest premium over standard products. The overall result was a floor the clients were very happy with and that met all the building's requirements.

Frequently Asked Questions

Does all flooring in flats need an acoustic underlay?
Most leases for flats in England and Wales include a requirement for floor coverings to meet a minimum impact sound reduction standard. We always recommend checking your lease before fitting and can advise on underlay specifications that meet typical requirements.

What is rustic grade engineered wood?
Rustic grade boards include a greater number of natural features such as knots, colour variation and grain character. This is different from prime or select grade, which is more uniform. Rustic grade is popular for its warmer and more natural appearance.

Can engineered wood be fitted over underfloor heating?
Yes, engineered wood is generally more stable than solid wood and well suited to use over underfloor heating systems. Board thickness and species affect how efficiently heat transfers through, and we can advise on the best options at the survey stage.

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Project Overview This engineered wood flooring installation in Abbey Wood replaced a solid wood floor that had been damaged beyond economical repair by repeated moisture fluctuations. The clients had chosen to move to engineered boards, which have a more dimensionally stable construction and are better suited to homes where humidity levels vary throughout the year. We fitted the new floor across t...

Project Overview

This engineered wood flooring installation in Abbey Wood replaced a solid wood floor that had been damaged beyond economical repair by repeated moisture fluctuations. The clients had chosen to move to engineered boards, which have a more dimensionally stable construction and are better suited to homes where humidity levels vary throughout the year. We fitted the new floor across the ground floor of the property, covering the living room, dining area and hallway.

The Challenge

The existing subfloor had been affected by the same moisture issues that had damaged the old solid wood floor. Before the new engineered boards could go down, the subfloor needed to be dried out properly and in some areas replaced where it had deteriorated. We also needed to identify and address the source of the moisture ingress before fitting -- there was no point fitting a new floor on a subfloor that was still damp. The moisture issue turned out to be a failed damp-proof membrane in part of the ground floor, which was treated and sealed before we proceeded.

Our Approach

• Subfloor investigation: Moisture readings were taken across the full area before any work began. Problem areas were mapped and the source of moisture identified.
• Remediation: The failed damp-proof membrane section was treated. Affected subfloor sections were replaced and allowed to dry to an acceptable moisture level before fitting.
• Acclimatisation: Engineered boards were left in the property for several days to adjust to the ambient conditions before fitting began.
• Installation: Boards were glued down to the subfloor rather than floated, which provides a more stable result in an environment with known moisture history. Gluing down also eliminates the hollow sound underfoot that floating installations can sometimes produce.
• Finishing: Expansion gaps were fitted at all walls and covered with matching beading. A final protective oil coat was applied across the whole floor.

The Result

The new floor looked fantastic and the clients immediately noticed how much more stable and solid it felt compared with the old floor in its later years. By addressing the moisture issue properly before fitting, we gave the new floor the best possible start. Engineered wood flooring supply and installation typically runs between £35 and £60 per square metre. The additional work on the subfloor was costed separately and transparently, and the clients felt the overall investment was excellent value given the quality of the result.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why is engineered wood more stable than solid wood?
Engineered wood has a real wood top layer bonded to a core made of multiple layers of plywood or HDF. These layers are laid at opposing angles, which counteracts the natural tendency of wood to expand and contract with moisture changes. This makes it more suitable for ground floors and environments with variable humidity.

Should engineered wood be glued down or floated?
Both methods work well in different circumstances. Gluing down is preferable where the subfloor has a history of moisture issues or where a very solid feel underfoot is required. Floating is faster and makes the floor easier to remove in future if needed. We advise on the best method at the survey stage.

Do you cover Abbey Wood and southeast London?
Yes. We work across southeast London including Abbey Wood, Woolwich, Plumstead and the wider DA and SE postcode areas.

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Project Overview This project in Northwest London involved fitting engineered wood flooring along with a full set of flooring accessories to achieve a complete, professional finish throughout the property. The clients had selected the boards themselves and asked us to supply all the accessories -- skirting, beading, threshold strips, and reducer profiles -- and to fit everything as a complete pack...

Project Overview

This project in Northwest London involved fitting engineered wood flooring along with a full set of flooring accessories to achieve a complete, professional finish throughout the property. The clients had selected the boards themselves and asked us to supply all the accessories -- skirting, beading, threshold strips, and reducer profiles -- and to fit everything as a complete package. The project covered multiple rooms across two floors, each with slightly different subfloor conditions and doorframe configurations.

The Challenge

Managing accessories across a multi-room project requires accurate pre-measurement and coordination to ensure consistent materials throughout. Different rooms also had different transition requirements -- some doorways connected rooms at the same level while others had small height differences that needed reducer strips rather than flat transitions. Matching all accessories to the board tone required careful selection, and a couple of the original samples supplied did not match well enough, so we arranged alternatives before the fit day.

Our Approach

• Pre-fit survey: All rooms were measured and accessory requirements calculated in detail to avoid any shortfalls on the day.
• Subfloor preparation: Any uneven areas were levelled and the subfloor cleaned before fitting began.
• Board fitting: Engineered boards were laid room by room using a floating method, maintaining consistent expansion gaps and staggering joints between rows.
• Skirting installation: Existing skirting was removed and replaced with new matching skirting boards, neatly mitred at corners and scribed to any uneven walls.
• Threshold and transition strips: All doorway transitions were fitted with the appropriate profile -- flat T-bars where floors met at the same height and reducers where there was a step.
• Beading: Floor-to-skirting beading was used in areas where the existing skirting was retained, to cover the expansion gap cleanly.

The Result

The completed project had a consistent, polished look throughout the property. Having matching accessories fitted at the same time as the floor made a significant difference to the finished appearance -- all transitions and edges were neat and intentional rather than an afterthought. Engineered wood floor installation in London costs between £35 and £60 per square metre for the boards and fitting, with accessories and skirting costed separately. The clients were very pleased with the result and the way all elements came together as a single cohesive floor.

Frequently Asked Questions

What flooring accessories are typically needed for an installation?
Most installations need at minimum some form of edge trim or beading to cover the expansion gap at the walls, and transition strips at all doorways. Skirting boards are fitted where the existing skirting is being replaced. Reducers or ramp profiles are needed where the new floor meets a lower surface such as tiles or carpet.

Do you supply accessories as well as fit them?
Yes. We can supply a full range of accessories that are matched or co-ordinated to the boards. This saves clients the time of sourcing each component separately and ensures compatibility.

Can engineered wood be fitted on the first floor as well as the ground floor?
Yes. Engineered wood is suitable for any floor level. On upper floors, we always check the subfloor condition and recommend an acoustic underlay where noise transmission to the floor below is a concern.

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