Floor Sanding Case Studies

Project Overview This project in Greenwich involved removing old carpeting and installing a new vinyl floor throughout the property. Vinyl flooring has grown significantly in popularity over recent years, offering excellent value, durability, and a wide range of looks. Fitting costs for vinyl typically sit between £35 and £55 per square metre, including subfloor preparation and underlayment. Th...

Project Overview

This project in Greenwich involved removing old carpeting and installing a new vinyl floor throughout the property. Vinyl flooring has grown significantly in popularity over recent years, offering excellent value, durability, and a wide range of looks. Fitting costs for vinyl typically sit between £35 and £55 per square metre, including subfloor preparation and underlayment.

The Challenge

We started by clearing out the existing carpeting and giving the subfloor a thorough clean before beginning the installation. Old carpeting can leave adhesive residue, tack strips, and uneven spots that need addressing before a new floor can go down properly. Once the subfloor was clear and clean, an underlayment was installed to provide a stable, even base and to help protect the vinyl from moisture and any minor subfloor imperfections. With those steps done, we began laying the vinyl planks.

Our Approach

• Carpet removal and disposal: The existing carpet and underlay were lifted and removed from the property. Tack strips around the perimeter were taken out and the subfloor was swept and inspected for level.
• Subfloor preparation: Any raised spots, dips, or gaps in the subfloor were addressed before the underlayment went down. A flat, clean base is essential for vinyl — even small imperfections can telegraph through a thin plank over time.
• Underlayment installation: A quality underlayment was fitted to improve the feel underfoot, reduce noise, and provide a moisture barrier between the subfloor and the new vinyl.
• Vinyl plank laying: Planks were laid starting from a straight reference line and worked outward across the room. Each plank was clicked or adhered into place according to the product specification, with cuts made carefully around architraves and door frames.
• Finishing details: Threshold strips and beading were fitted at perimeters and transitions to give the installation a tidy, complete appearance.

The Result

The result was a significant improvement on the old carpeting. The team worked carefully to make sure every plank was correctly seated before moving on. Vinyl floors offer tremendous value — they are durable, easy to maintain, warm underfoot compared to tile, and available in realistic wood and stone effects. This Greenwich home now has a floor that looks attractive, performs well in daily use, and will be straightforward to keep clean for years to come.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: What is the difference between LVT and standard vinyl flooring?
A: LVT (luxury vinyl tile) is a thicker, more structured product that comes in plank or tile formats and is designed to replicate the look of wood or stone more convincingly than traditional vinyl sheet. Standard vinyl sheet is thinner and suited to areas where cost is the priority. Most residential projects we carry out use LVT planks due to their durability and appearance.

Q: Can vinyl flooring be installed over existing tiles?
A: In some cases yes, provided the tiles are flat, firmly adhered, and the height difference will not cause issues at doorways. If tiles are cracked or loose, they need to come up first. We assess this during our initial visit.

Q: How long does vinyl flooring last?
A: Quality LVT with a good wear layer — 0.55mm or above — can last 15 to 25 years in domestic use with normal maintenance. The floor is waterproof, so it handles spills and damp conditions well, which makes it a popular choice for kitchens, bathrooms, and hallways.

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Project Overview This project in North Finchley involved a herringbone parquet floor installation using Elka Honey Smoked Oak Herringbone Engineered Flooring. Parquet fitting is one of the more technically demanding floor installation jobs, requiring careful subfloor preparation, precise layout planning, and experience with the pattern. Parquet fitting typically costs between £70 and £100 per sq...

Project Overview

This project in North Finchley involved a herringbone parquet floor installation using Elka Honey Smoked Oak Herringbone Engineered Flooring. Parquet fitting is one of the more technically demanding floor installation jobs, requiring careful subfloor preparation, precise layout planning, and experience with the pattern. Parquet fitting typically costs between £70 and £100 per square metre, reflecting the additional skill and time involved compared to straight plank installation.

The Challenge

Parquet floor installation is a complex process that should only be carried out by experienced professionals. The first step is preparing the subfloor, which must be clean, level, and free of any defects before any boards go down. Any movement, softness, or variation in level across the subfloor will show up in a herringbone pattern far more than in a straight-run floor — the geometry makes inconsistencies immediately obvious. Getting this preparation right before laying a single block is what separates a clean result from one that looks wrong.

Our Approach

• Subfloor assessment and preparation: The subfloor was checked across its full area for level, moisture content, and structural integrity. Any issues were addressed before work started. Moisture readings were taken to ensure the subfloor was within acceptable limits for a glue-down installation.
• Layout planning: Herringbone requires careful planning of the starting point and direction of the pattern to ensure the layout sits correctly within the room and that cuts at the perimeter are balanced.
• Adhesive and board laying: Boards were adhered to the subfloor using the correct adhesive for the product, laid in the herringbone pattern from the datum line outward. Each board was pressed firmly and checked for alignment before the adhesive set.
• Perimeter cuts and fitting: Boards at the edges and around door frames were cut accurately to follow the room's shape while maintaining the pattern's geometry.
• Finishing and trims: Beading and thresholds were fitted to complete the installation and protect the expansion gap around the perimeter.

The Result

Elka Honey Smoked Oak Herringbone Engineered Flooring adds a touch of character to this North Finchley home. The honey smoked oak colouring works well in both period and contemporary interiors, and the herringbone pattern gives the floor a visual depth that straight planks simply cannot match. The floor will perform well for many years — engineered boards are stable across humidity changes and the smoked finish is pre-applied at the factory to a consistent standard.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Why does parquet floor fitting cost more than standard plank installation?
A: The main factors are time and skill. Laying a herringbone or chevron pattern requires more cutting, more precise alignment, and a slower pace than a straight plank run. Any mistakes in the early stages compound through the whole floor, so there is no room for shortcuts. The additional cost reflects the expertise and time genuinely required.

Q: Is engineered parquet suitable for underfloor heating?
A: Most quality engineered parquet products are compatible with underfloor heating, including the Elka range used here. It is important to follow the manufacturer's guidance on maximum surface temperatures and to acclimatise the boards before fitting. We check compatibility for every product before installation.

Q: How long does a parquet installation take?
A: A room of typical size — around 20 to 25 square metres — generally takes two to three days for a herringbone installation, including subfloor preparation and fitting all trims. Complex room shapes or larger areas will take longer.

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Project Overview This Golders Green project involved a full parquet floor restoration — inspecting the condition of each block, addressing repairs and loose sections, sanding the entire surface back to bare wood, and applying a lacquer finish to protect and seal it. Parquet restoration costs typically sit between £30 and £45 per square metre, depending on the extent of repairs and the finish s...

Project Overview

This Golders Green project involved a full parquet floor restoration — inspecting the condition of each block, addressing repairs and loose sections, sanding the entire surface back to bare wood, and applying a lacquer finish to protect and seal it. Parquet restoration costs typically sit between £30 and £45 per square metre, depending on the extent of repairs and the finish specified.

The Challenge

Parquet floor restoration is a process that requires care and attention to detail. The first step is a thorough inspection of the floor to assess the extent of any damage or deterioration. Once this is completed, the next stage is sanding the floor to even out the surface. This is a critical step — the quality of the sanding determines the quality of the final finish. Sanding a parquet floor requires patience and the right equipment, particularly around the edges and in the corners of the pattern where a drum sander cannot reach.

Our Approach

• Full floor inspection: Each section of the parquet was checked for loose, lifting, or damaged blocks. Areas where the adhesive had failed were identified, blocks were re-glued and clamped, and any blocks beyond repair were sourced and replaced.
• Surface preparation: Once all blocks were secure and any repairs had cured, the floor was ready for sanding. Sanding a parquet floor requires careful attention to the direction of the grain — different sections of a herringbone pattern run at angles to each other, so the sanding approach needs to account for this to avoid cross-grain scratching.
• Sanding: We worked through the floor with a drum sander for the main field and an edge sander for the borders, progressing through grades of abrasive to produce a clean, even surface.
• Lacquering: Multiple coats of lacquer were applied to protect the restored surface and bring out the natural character of the wood. Each coat was allowed to cure fully before the next was applied.

The Result

Finally, the lacquer was applied to protect the floor from future damage. The process of inspecting, repairing, sanding, and lacquering has restored this Golders Green parquet floor to a condition it has not been in for many years. A properly lacquered parquet floor is straightforward to maintain and will continue to look well for a long time with basic care. This type of restoration is exactly what makes parquet such a worthwhile flooring investment — it can be renewed rather than replaced.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Can old parquet floors be fully restored regardless of their age?
A: In most cases, yes — provided the blocks themselves are structurally sound and the overall pattern is largely intact. Parquet floors in London properties are often 50 to 80 years old and can still be brought back to excellent condition. The key variables are the thickness of the remaining wear layer and how many times the floor has previously been sanded.

Q: What causes parquet blocks to lift or come loose?
A: The most common cause is moisture, either from damp rising through the subfloor or from water spills that have not been cleaned up promptly. Adhesive failure over time is also a factor in older floors where the original bitumen-based adhesive has dried out. Re-gluing loose blocks is a standard part of any parquet restoration.

Q: Is lacquer or oil better for parquet?
A: Both work well, and the choice comes down to preference. Lacquer gives a harder surface that is more resistant to water and abrasion. Oil gives a more natural, open look and can be spot-repaired without re-sanding the whole floor. For high-traffic areas, lacquer is generally the more practical choice.

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Project Overview This project in Woolwich involved the installation of a laminate floor as part of a home improvement. Laminate is a practical choice for clients who want the appearance of a wood floor at a more manageable cost. It is durable, hard-wearing, and available in a wide range of finishes. Laminate floor fitting typically costs between £35 and £55 per square metre, including underlayme...

Project Overview

This project in Woolwich involved the installation of a laminate floor as part of a home improvement. Laminate is a practical choice for clients who want the appearance of a wood floor at a more manageable cost. It is durable, hard-wearing, and available in a wide range of finishes. Laminate floor fitting typically costs between £35 and £55 per square metre, including underlayment and all trims.

The Challenge

Laminate flooring is often overlooked in favour of real wood, but the two are closer in terms of appearance and performance than many people expect. Laminate is not made from solid timber — it is designed to replicate the look of wood — but it delivers genuine durability and an attractive finish at a lower cost. It is also resistant to scratching and fading in a way that makes it well-suited to busy households. This Woolwich project gave us the opportunity to demonstrate what a well-executed laminate installation can look like.

Our Approach

• Subfloor inspection: The most important first step in any floor installation is checking the condition of the subfloor. For laminate to sit properly and perform well over time, the subfloor must be dry, level, and free of imperfections. We checked moisture levels and addressed any variations in level before proceeding.
• Underlayment installation: A quality underlay was fitted across the subfloor. The underlay acts as a moisture barrier and provides a cushioning layer underfoot. Good underlay also improves the acoustic performance of the floor, reducing the hollow sound that can occur with laminate if a cheap or absent underlay is used.
• Laminate installation: Boards were clicked into place working from one wall outward. Expansion gaps were maintained at the perimeter to allow for movement with changes in humidity.
• Trims and finishing: Beading and threshold strips were fitted to complete the edges and transitions, giving the installation a clean, finished appearance.

The Result

Once the subfloor was right, the underlayment was down, and the laminate boards were installed, the difference in the room was immediate. Laminate gives the look of a wood floor at a budget that works for many more households, and when it is installed correctly it holds up very well over time. The Woolwich client now has a practical, attractive floor that is easy to maintain and will handle daily use without showing significant wear for many years.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Is laminate flooring suitable for kitchens and bathrooms?
A: Standard laminate is not recommended for wet rooms or bathrooms due to the risk of moisture getting between the joints. However, there are water-resistant and fully waterproof laminate products available that are suitable for kitchens and utility rooms. We discuss the right product for the specific area when quoting.

Q: Can laminate flooring be repaired if a board gets damaged?
A: Individual planks can be replaced if they are badly damaged, though this is easier in a floating installation than in one where boards have been glued. Minor surface scratches can sometimes be filled with a matching repair kit. Keeping a few spare boards from the original installation is always a good idea.

Q: How long does laminate floor installation take?
A: Most rooms can be completed within a day, including subfloor preparation, underlayment, and fitting all the trims. Larger areas or rooms with complex shapes take longer. We give a specific timeframe when we visit to measure up and quote.

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Project Overview This West Ealing project involved installing a laminate floor with appropriate underlayment and all necessary finishing accessories. One of the more important decisions we make before a laminate installation is the choice of underlay, which depends on the moisture conditions of the specific room. Laminate fitting generally costs between £35 and £55 per square metre, with the tot...

Project Overview

This West Ealing project involved installing a laminate floor with appropriate underlayment and all necessary finishing accessories. One of the more important decisions we make before a laminate installation is the choice of underlay, which depends on the moisture conditions of the specific room. Laminate fitting generally costs between £35 and £55 per square metre, with the total varying based on room size, subfloor condition, and the product selected.

The Challenge

The first step on any laminate job is checking the subfloor. If it is clean and smooth, installation can start relatively quickly. If there are issues — unevenness, damp, old adhesive residue — these need addressing before any boards go down. For this West Ealing property, we checked the moisture level during our first visit. The moisture content of the room directly affects which underlayment is appropriate. Rooms with higher humidity need a thicker rubber underlayment — typically over 4mm — to absorb any residual moisture. Where humidity is above acceptable levels, the right approach is to deal with the source first before installing a floor. For this project, the conditions were suitable to proceed once the correct underlay was in place.

Our Approach

• Subfloor assessment: We checked the level, cleanliness, and moisture content of the subfloor before selecting the right underlayment for the room.
• Underlayment selection and fitting: Based on the moisture reading, we selected an appropriate underlay thickness. This step is often underestimated — the underlay affects how the finished floor feels and how long it performs without problems.
• Laminate board installation: Boards were fitted using a click system, working from a straight starting line and cutting to fit around door frames, architraves, and any fixed features in the room.
• Expansion gaps: Gaps were maintained around the perimeter and at fixed obstacles to allow the laminate to expand and contract with temperature and humidity changes.
• Accessories and finishing: The right flooring accessories — beading, threshold strips, and door trims — were fitted to complete the look. These details are what give a floor installation a finished, professional quality.

The Result

Installing laminate flooring is a relatively quick process once the subfloor is correctly prepared. Once the laminate boards were in place, the accessories were fitted to give the space a clean, considered finish. Laminate is an honest, cost-effective flooring option that performs well when it is installed properly. The West Ealing client now has a floor that looks the part and will handle everyday life without needing much attention beyond regular cleaning.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: What underlayment thickness should I use for laminate?
A: The standard recommendation for most rooms is a 2mm to 3mm foam or combination underlay. For rooms with higher moisture levels — ground floor, over concrete — a thicker rubber underlay of 4mm or more is preferable as it provides better moisture resistance. We always check the room conditions before recommending an underlay.

Q: Does laminate flooring need to acclimatise before fitting?
A: Yes. Most laminate manufacturers recommend leaving the boards in the room for at least 48 hours before installation so they can adjust to the ambient temperature and humidity. Fitting without acclimatisation increases the risk of the boards expanding or contracting noticeably after installation.

Q: Can laminate be installed over underfloor heating?
A: Some laminate products are approved for use over underfloor heating, but not all. The surface temperature must be kept below 27 degrees Celsius and the heating should be turned down gradually before installation and brought back up slowly afterwards. We check the product specification and the heating setup when quoting for this type of job.

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Project Overview This project in Romford involved a parquet floor that had accumulated years of wear and needed a full restoration through sanding, staining, and gap filling. Parquet floors respond well to this type of work — the solid wood blocks have enough depth to absorb a proper sand and come back looking significantly better. Parquet sanding and refinishing typically costs between £30 and...

Project Overview

This project in Romford involved a parquet floor that had accumulated years of wear and needed a full restoration through sanding, staining, and gap filling. Parquet floors respond well to this type of work — the solid wood blocks have enough depth to absorb a proper sand and come back looking significantly better. Parquet sanding and refinishing typically costs between £30 and £45 per square metre depending on condition and specification.

The Challenge

This project took us to a parquet floor in need of proper restoration. The floor had seen better days, with signs of wear and tear across the surface. A careful inspection confirmed that the blocks themselves were structurally sound — no significant lifting or loose sections — which meant sanding and refinishing was the right approach rather than a full strip-out and replacement. A good sanding and refinishing job can return a worn parquet floor to something close to its original condition, and that was the aim here.

Our Approach

• Initial inspection: We checked the whole floor for loose, damaged, or missing blocks before starting. Any blocks that needed re-adhesion were glued and left to cure before sanding began.
• Gap filling: Gaps between blocks were filled prior to sanding. This creates a uniform surface and prevents filler from crumbling out after the finish is applied.
• Sanding: The floor was sanded with professional equipment, working through progressively finer grades. Parquet sanding requires care around the pattern joins where grain direction changes — rushing this stage shows in the finished result.
• Staining: A stain was applied to achieve the client's preferred colour tone. Staining parquet can transform the appearance considerably, and the colour chosen here worked well with the room's overall scheme.
• Finishing coat: A protective finish was applied over the stain to seal and protect the floor, giving it durability and making it straightforward to keep clean going forward.

The Result

Floor restoration and refinishing services are recommended every several years, or once visible wear and deterioration becomes noticeable. This is the effect achieved for the Romford parquet floor — brought back to its initial condition. The staining gave the floor a fresh, considered look, and the finish coat means it is properly protected for the years ahead. The client was pleased with how the floor came out, and it is a good example of what proper restoration can achieve on a floor that might otherwise have seemed past its best.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: When is it better to restore a parquet floor rather than replace it?
A: Restoration makes sense when the blocks are structurally sound, the pattern is largely intact, and there is sufficient thickness remaining in the wear layer for a sand. If more than 20 to 30 per cent of blocks are missing or beyond repair, replacement may be more practical. We assess this honestly during the initial visit and give a clear recommendation.

Q: Can you stain parquet to a dark colour?
A: Yes. Parquet takes stain well, and dark tones — such as dark walnut or ebony — are a popular choice. The key is applying the stain evenly and allowing adequate absorption time before applying the topcoat. We always do a test area first to confirm the colour result before committing to the full floor.

Q: How do I maintain a restored parquet floor?
A: Regular sweeping or vacuuming with a soft attachment, wiping up spills promptly, and avoiding wet mopping are the main requirements. For lacquered floors, a maintenance coat every few years keeps the surface in good condition. For oiled floors, periodic re-oiling is recommended. We advise on the correct maintenance products after completing each job.

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Project Overview This project in Hornchurch involved the installation of a chevron parquet floor — one of the more demanding jobs in the wood flooring trade. Chevron is a pointed-end pattern where each board cuts to a precise angle so that the rows meet in a continuous arrow or V-shape across the floor. Getting this right requires experience, careful subfloor preparation, and exact cutting and l...

Project Overview

This project in Hornchurch involved the installation of a chevron parquet floor — one of the more demanding jobs in the wood flooring trade. Chevron is a pointed-end pattern where each board cuts to a precise angle so that the rows meet in a continuous arrow or V-shape across the floor. Getting this right requires experience, careful subfloor preparation, and exact cutting and laying technique. Chevron and herringbone parquet fitting typically costs between £70 and £100 per square metre, reflecting the time and skill involved.

The Challenge

Chevron floor installation is considered one of the most complex jobs in the wood flooring industry. This pattern requires extra craftsmanship, experience, and knowledge compared to a standard plank or herringbone layout. The cut angle on each board must be exact and consistent, otherwise the pattern will not align cleanly as it progresses across the room. Our team of experienced professionals provides parquet floor installation services across London and the surrounding areas, and this Hornchurch project was completed to a high standard.

Our Approach

• Subfloor preparation: Before a single chevron board was laid, we made sure the subfloor was completely dry, level, and clean. This stage is non-negotiable for any parquet installation — a chevron pattern will show even small variations in flatness far more clearly than a straight plank floor. The subfloor was checked for moisture content, levelled where needed, and primed for adhesive.
• Layout planning: The starting point and central axis of the chevron pattern were carefully worked out relative to the room shape. The room in Hornchurch had an irregular shape, which added to the complexity of getting the layout to look balanced.
• Chevron floor fitting: Boards were adhered to the prepared subfloor starting from the datum line, working outward in both directions to keep the pattern expanding symmetrically. Each board was pressed into the adhesive and checked for alignment before moving to the next.
• Perimeter cuts: Cutting chevron boards to fit the room's edges requires precision — particularly at angles and around door frames — to keep the pattern readable right to the boundary of the floor.
• Flooring accessories: Once all boards were laid and the adhesive had cured, we fitted all the finishing accessories — thresholds, beading, and door trims — to complete the installation.

The Result

In order to ensure the durability of the parquet floor, we began with thorough subfloor preparation — confirming it was completely dry, levelled, and clean before installation. Once the subfloor was in the right condition, the chevron fitting began. Parquet floors are available in a wide range of patterns, and chevron is one of the most striking. We finished the installation by fitting all flooring accessories to give the floor a complete, polished appearance. The Hornchurch client now has a distinctive, high-quality floor that is well-fitted and properly finished.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: What is the difference between chevron and herringbone parquet?
A: In a herringbone pattern, each rectangular board is laid at 90 degrees to the adjacent one, creating a zigzag effect with square-cut ends. In a chevron pattern, the ends of the boards are cut at a precise angle so that when two boards meet, they form a clean V or arrow point. Chevron has a sharper, more geometric look and is generally considered the more challenging pattern to lay correctly.

Q: Can chevron parquet be fitted in any room shape?
A: Yes, though irregular or non-rectangular rooms add complexity to the layout planning and the perimeter cuts. The key is establishing the correct datum line at the start. Our team assessed the room shape in Hornchurch before starting and planned the layout accordingly to make sure the pattern sat correctly within the space.

Q: Do chevron floors need to be sanded after installation?
A: This depends on the product. Pre-finished engineered chevron boards come with the factory finish already applied and do not require sanding after fitting. Unfinished boards need sanding and finishing on-site after installation. We advise on the right product and process during the quoting stage.

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Project Overview This project in Buckhurst Hill involved the installation of engineered wood flooring with a quality underlay, using correct preparation and installation procedures throughout. Engineered flooring is one of the most popular choices for residential properties — it offers the look and feel of solid wood with better stability across humidity changes. Fitting typically costs between ...

Project Overview

This project in Buckhurst Hill involved the installation of engineered wood flooring with a quality underlay, using correct preparation and installation procedures throughout. Engineered flooring is one of the most popular choices for residential properties — it offers the look and feel of solid wood with better stability across humidity changes. Fitting typically costs between £35 and £60 per square metre, depending on the floor size and the complexity of the job.

The Challenge

Engineered flooring installation is a process that should be carried out by a professional to achieve the best long-term results. Quality materials and correct installation procedures are both essential. One product used on this project was the Duralay Timbermate Excel Silver Wood Floor and Laminate Underlay, which has good acoustic and thermal properties and is suited to both residential and commercial settings. Selecting the right underlay is part of specifying the job correctly, not an afterthought.

Our Approach

• Subfloor preparation: We started by preparing the subfloor thoroughly — cleaning the surface, checking for level, and removing any debris or old fixings. The subfloor was checked for moisture content before any underlay or flooring was brought in. A dry, clean, level base is the foundation that everything else relies on.
• Underlay installation: The Duralay Timbermate Excel Silver underlay was fitted across the prepared subfloor. This product provides a barrier against moisture rising from below and adds thermal and acoustic benefits. It also takes out minor surface imperfections in the subfloor that could otherwise transmit through to the finished floor.
• Engineered flooring installation: Boards were laid following the manufacturer's instructions, with the correct expansion gaps maintained at walls and fixed obstacles. The installation sequence and starting point were planned before work began to ensure the layout balanced well within the room.
• Acclimation period: The flooring was allowed to acclimate to the room for 24 hours before installation commenced. This allows the boards to adjust to the ambient temperature and humidity, reducing movement after fitting.
• Trims and finishing: Beading, thresholds, and door trims were fitted to complete the job.

The Result

When installing engineered flooring, preparation of the subfloor is the single most important factor. Once the subfloor was clean, level, and within the correct moisture range, the underlay was installed to provide protection and cushioning. Following the manufacturer's instructions at each stage and allowing the floor to settle properly before furniture was moved in meant the Buckhurst Hill client ended up with a floor that will perform well for many years. Engineered wood is a sound long-term choice for most residential properties, and this installation was carried out to the standard that makes it last.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: What is the difference between engineered wood and solid wood flooring?
A: Solid wood is cut from a single piece of timber throughout its full thickness. Engineered wood has a real wood wear layer on the surface bonded to multiple layers of ply or HDF below. This construction makes engineered wood more stable across changes in temperature and humidity, which is why it is often the preferred choice for properties with underfloor heating or concrete subfloors.

Q: Can engineered wood be fitted over underfloor heating?
A: Yes, most engineered wood products are compatible with underfloor heating. The key requirements are that the surface temperature does not exceed 27 degrees Celsius and that the heating system is run at low temperatures for a period before installation to condition the subfloor. We check compatibility with each specific product before fitting.

Q: How long should engineered wood acclimatise before fitting?
A: Manufacturers typically recommend 24 to 48 hours in the room where the floor will be installed. The boards should be left in their packaging or stacked loosely to allow air circulation. Installing without acclimatisation can lead to boards moving or gapping after fitting, particularly if the room temperature or humidity differs significantly from the storage conditions.

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Project Overview This job in Highbury involved a full wood floor renovation covering floorboard replacement, dust-free sanding and lacquer refinishing. The floor had suffered years of hard use — boards were cracked or split beyond repair, the existing finish had worn away in heavy traffic areas, and the surface was dull and scratched throughout. The client wanted a floor that looked consistent ...

Project Overview

This job in Highbury involved a full wood floor renovation covering floorboard replacement, dust-free sanding and lacquer refinishing. The floor had suffered years of hard use — boards were cracked or split beyond repair, the existing finish had worn away in heavy traffic areas, and the surface was dull and scratched throughout. The client wanted a floor that looked consistent again and would hold up for years without constant attention. Our sanding and renovation team carried out a thorough assessment before a single machine was switched on.

The Challenge

Several boards were too far gone to save by sanding alone. When boards are deeply split, cupped or structurally weakened, sanding just thins them down further without removing the underlying issue. The challenge was sourcing replacement boards that matched the existing floor closely enough in width, thickness and species to sit flush and look right once refinished. Colour variation between old and new timber is normal — sanding and staining brings everything together — but getting the physical fit right from the start matters for both stability and appearance. The existing gaps between boards also needed treating before any finishing could begin.

Our Approach

Board replacement: We lifted the damaged boards carefully, numbered them and removed any old adhesive or fixings from the subfloor underneath. New boards sourced from our regular suppliers were cut to length and fitted tight, nailed and glued where required to match the construction of the original floor.

Gap filling: With replacement boards in place, we addressed the gaps elsewhere across the floor. Fine gaps were packed with a mix of natural resin and sawdust collected from the first sanding pass. This mixture dries hard, takes the finish evenly and is barely visible once sanded flush.

Multi-pass sanding: We used a drum sander for the main field, following the grain at all times, with edging machines working the perimeter. Each pass moved to a finer grit, working down from coarse through medium to fine. The result after sanding was a uniformly smooth, open-grained surface ready for finishing.

Lacquer application: Two coats of commercial-grade water-based lacquer were applied with a light abrasion between coats. Lacquer forms a hard film on top of the wood that resists scuffing and moisture, and it enhances the natural colour of the boards without going too orange or yellow. The client chose a satin sheen which suits the character of the room.

The Result

The finished floor looks consistent from end to end. The replaced boards are indistinguishable from the original once the lacquer was down. All gaps are filled, the surface is smooth and the colour is even throughout. Sanding and refinishing typically costs £25 to £45 per square metre depending on the condition of the floor and the number of repairs needed, making it far more economical than replacing the floor altogether. This Highbury project is a good example of what professional renovation can achieve on a floor that most people would write off.

FAQ

How long does a floor like this take from start to finish?
A job of this size — board replacement, gap filling, full sanding and two coats of lacquer — typically takes two to three days. The floor needs to be clear of furniture throughout and we ask that it is left for at least 24 hours after the final coat before heavy use resumes.

Can you always find matching replacement boards?
We stock a range of species and profiles and work with suppliers who carry reclaimed timber. In most cases we get close enough that the difference disappears once the finish is applied. Where an exact match is not possible, selective staining can help bring boards together in colour.

How many times can a hardwood floor be sanded?
Solid hardwood boards can typically be sanded four to eight times over their lifetime, depending on board thickness. Each sanding removes around 1 to 2 mm of timber. Engineered boards have a thinner wear layer, usually 3 to 6 mm, which limits them to two or three sandings. We check board thickness before quoting to confirm whether sanding is viable.

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Project Overview This project involved the full repair and restoration of an original parquet floor inside a listed Old Town House in Woolwich. Carried out as part of an English Heritage project, the brief required us to retain as much of the original material as possible and use seasoned reclaimed timber to replace only what could not be saved. The floor had been in place for many decades and wh...

Project Overview

This project involved the full repair and restoration of an original parquet floor inside a listed Old Town House in Woolwich. Carried out as part of an English Heritage project, the brief required us to retain as much of the original material as possible and use seasoned reclaimed timber to replace only what could not be saved. The floor had been in place for many decades and while sections were in reasonable order, other areas had suffered lifting, cracking and loss of individual blocks. The entire floor was also heavily worn and dull, with old wax and grime built up in the joints.

The Challenge

Heritage projects present specific constraints. We could not simply pull up damaged areas and replace with new timber — the character and age of the reclaimed blocks had to be matched. Modern parquet is machine-cut to consistent dimensions, but original parquet from older buildings tends to vary slightly in thickness and size. Finding seasoned reclaimed blocks that matched both the dimensions and the species of the existing floor took time and care. Beyond the sourcing challenge, parquet sanding always requires skill because the blocks run in multiple directions. Sanding against the grain on any run of blocks will leave scratches that are very difficult to remove.

Our Approach

Block repair and reinstatement: We started by going over the entire floor block by block, testing for movement, hollowness and structural failure. Loose blocks were carefully lifted, the adhesive bed cleaned down to bare subfloor, and the blocks reset with an appropriate adhesive. Where blocks were too damaged or missing entirely, seasoned reclaimed timber was cut to fit and bedded in to match the surrounding pattern as closely as possible.

Gap filling and joint cleaning: Original parquet often accumulates old wax, polish residue and grime in the joints over time. We cleaned the joints out before filling where needed with a resin and sawdust mix compatible with the period finish we planned to apply.

Multi-directional sanding: We used a combination of belt sanders and rotary machines suited to parquet work, adjusting direction carefully across each section of the pattern. The floor was taken through several grits from coarse to fine until the surface was consistent and smooth throughout.

Finishing: Given the heritage context, the finish was selected to suit the original character of the floor — a hard wax oil that gives a natural low-sheen appearance without the plastic look of lacquer. This approach also makes future maintenance easier: small areas can be re-oiled without the need to sand back the whole floor.

The Result

The restored floor now reads as a complete and consistent piece of work. The repaired sections blend with the original, the surface is clean and even, and the oil finish gives the blocks a warm, natural tone in keeping with the character of the building. Parquet restoration of this type typically falls in the £70 to £100 per square metre bracket depending on the extent of block repair required. This project stands as a good example of the level of care and patience the work demands.

FAQ

Can any parquet floor be restored, or are there cases where replacement is better?
Most parquet floors can be restored provided the subfloor is structurally sound and a reasonable proportion of the original blocks are intact. Where more than 30 to 40 per cent of blocks are damaged, replacement sometimes makes better sense economically. We always carry out an honest assessment before recommending either route.

Do reclaimed replacement blocks ever stand out after sanding?
With well-matched reclaimed timber, the difference is minimal once sanding and finishing is complete. The age and slight tonal variation in reclaimed blocks can actually help them blend with an original floor better than new timber would.

Is hard wax oil suitable for a high-traffic area in a public building?
Modern hard wax oils are very durable and well suited to heavy use. They penetrate into the wood rather than sitting on top as a film, which means they resist scuffing differently to lacquer. Spot repairs and re-oiling can be done locally if a section becomes worn, without disrupting the whole floor.

Have a similar project? Call us on 020 88309782 or Book a Free Site Visit