Floor Sanding Case Studies

Project Overview This Norbury job covered the repair, gap filling, full sanding and oil finishing of a hardwood floor and wooden staircase. The floor had a number of boards that were too worn and distressed to save through sanding alone, wide gaps throughout, and a finish that had worn through to bare wood in the heaviest traffic areas. The stairs were in a similar state — scuffed treads, peeli...

Project Overview

This Norbury job covered the repair, gap filling, full sanding and oil finishing of a hardwood floor and wooden staircase. The floor had a number of boards that were too worn and distressed to save through sanding alone, wide gaps throughout, and a finish that had worn through to bare wood in the heaviest traffic areas. The stairs were in a similar state — scuffed treads, peeling finish and a general air of tiredness. Rather than replace either, the client chose professional renovation, which was the right call: solid hardwood floors and staircases of this quality are worth saving. Sanding and oil finishing of this scope typically runs at £28 to £40 per square metre.

The Challenge

When boards are too far gone for sanding to help, selecting appropriate replacements requires care. Width and thickness need to match exactly — a board that is even slightly thicker than its neighbours will create a trip hazard and will be immediately noticeable. Getting the species and colour close enough that the replacement boards disappear under the finish is also important, though this is easier to manage with stain or oil than with lacquer, which tends to be more transparent. The wide gaps in this floor needed pine slivers rather than resin alone, and the stairs had areas around the spindles and nosings where hand tools were the only practical option.

Our Approach

Board replacement: Boards identified during inspection as beyond repair were lifted and replaced with closely matched hardwood cut to the correct length, width and thickness. All replacements were fitted and fixed down securely before any sanding began.

Gap filling: Wide gaps were filled with pine slivers tapped in and trimmed flush, then covered with a resin and sawdust mix for a tight, even joint. Narrower gaps received the resin mix alone. Once the filler had cured, it was sanded flush in the first sanding pass.

Sanding floor and stairs: The floor was sanded through three grit levels, following the grain throughout. The staircase was tackled separately: drum sander on the larger treads, detail machines and hand tools for nosings, risers and the areas around spindles. Getting the stairs consistent with the floor surface quality takes time but is necessary for a uniform finish result.

Oil finishing: A hard-wearing penetrating oil was applied to both floor and stairs. Oil finishes give a natural close-to-the-wood look that suits solid hardwood well, and they allow individual sections to be re-oiled if they become worn without needing to sand the whole surface. This is particularly useful for stairs where one or two treads may wear faster than the rest.

The Result

The floor and stairs both came out looking consistent in colour and texture, with all gaps filled, all surface damage removed and a fresh oil finish throughout. The replacement boards are barely distinguishable from the originals. This Norbury project is a clear example of what professional maintenance can achieve on a hardwood floor and staircase that had been left without professional care for too long.

FAQ

When is it not worth repairing boards and better to replace the floor entirely?
If more than around 30 to 40 per cent of the boards are damaged or the subfloor beneath has suffered serious structural issues, replacement may work out more cost-effective than repair. For most floors we see, however, repair and renovation is perfectly viable and far cheaper than replacement. We give an honest assessment at the quoting stage.

How are pine slivers used in gap filling and do they show?
Pine slivers are thin wedges of timber tapped into wide gaps to fill them structurally. They are then sanded flush and covered with the resin and sawdust mix used for finer gaps. Once sanded and finished, they are generally invisible to the eye. The result is a tight, stable floor without draught gaps.

How often should a hardwood floor and staircase be professionally maintained?
In normal domestic use, a full sand and refinish every eight to twelve years is a reasonable guide. Stairs can need more frequent attention because treads are essentially point-loaded with every step. Oil finishes allow spot maintenance more easily than lacquer, which extends the time between full sandings. We advise on the right maintenance schedule for your specific floor and level of use when completing a job.

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Project Overview This Fulham project covered the repair, gap filling, sanding and refinishing of a hardwood floor and a wooden staircase in a residential property. The floor had developed gaps and some boards had suffered damage that needed addressing before any finishing work could begin. The staircase was due for a full refresh — treads were scuffed, the finish had peeled away on the nosings ...

Project Overview

This Fulham project covered the repair, gap filling, sanding and refinishing of a hardwood floor and a wooden staircase in a residential property. The floor had developed gaps and some boards had suffered damage that needed addressing before any finishing work could begin. The staircase was due for a full refresh — treads were scuffed, the finish had peeled away on the nosings and the handrail area was worn. The client wanted the floor finished with a high-quality lacquer and the staircase treated to the same standard with a durable sealant suited to heavy daily traffic. Work of this scope in Fulham and the surrounding areas typically costs between £28 and £42 per square metre.

The Challenge

Combining floor and stair renovation in one project is logical and cost-effective but it requires careful planning. The staircase is the access route for the team, so the floor and stairs cannot simply be sanded and finished at the same time — the sequence must be managed so that the team can still move around the property without walking on wet finish. Boards with damage beyond repair also needed sourcing and replacing before sanding, and the range of finish conditions across the floor — some areas very worn, others in better shape — meant the coarse sanding pass needed care to avoid taking too much material from the better-preserved sections while still removing the damage in the worst areas.

Our Approach

Board repair and replacement: Boards that were structurally damaged or too worn for sanding to cure were replaced with closely matched hardwood. Loose boards elsewhere were refixed. All repair work was completed and inspected before sanding began.

Gap filling: Gaps across the floor were filled in two stages: pine slivers where gaps were wide, resin and sawdust mix for the finer ones. Once the filler had fully cured, it was taken back flush with the surrounding boards in the first sanding pass.

Sanding: The floor was sanded through three grits — coarse, medium, fine. Care was taken to follow the grain throughout and to blend the transitions between repaired and original sections. The staircase was sanded after the floor, with the team using a combination of portable machines and hand tools to cover treads, risers and nosings thoroughly.

Finishing: The floor received two coats of a hard-wearing water-based lacquer with a light abrasion between coats. The staircase was finished with a purpose-formulated sealant appropriate for high-traffic stair use. Both finishes were applied in a consistent satin sheen for a cohesive look from floor to staircase.

The Result

Both the floor and the staircase came out looking clean, repaired and well-protected. All gaps are filled, the surface is smooth and even, and the lacquer gives a durable finish that will hold up for years under normal household traffic. The stair sealant is appropriately hard-wearing for what is genuinely one of the most demanding surfaces in a domestic property. This Fulham job illustrates the value of tackling floor and stair renovation as a single coordinated project.

FAQ

What is the best finish for a wooden staircase?
A purpose-mixed floor lacquer or sealant with a high solids content is the best choice for stairs. The finish needs to be hard enough to withstand concentrated point loads from foot traffic without chipping or peeling. We advise against standard wall or furniture varnishes on stairs as they are not formulated for this level of use and tend to peel away at the nosings within months.

Can a staircase be sanded if it has spindles and a newel post in the way?
Yes. Machine access is limited around spindles, but this is standard on all staircase sanding jobs. Detail machines and hand tools are used in the areas where a larger machine cannot reach. The result is the same quality of surface — it simply takes longer per tread than a flat floor area does.

How long does the whole floor and staircase project take?
A project covering a mid-sized floor plus a full staircase, including board replacement, gap filling, sanding and two coats of finish, typically takes three to four days. The property needs to be accessible throughout and we ask that the floor and stairs are left clear for at least 24 hours after the final finish coat before normal use resumes.

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Project Overview This Streatham project involved gap filling, full sanding and lacquering of a parquet floor that had become worn and dull after years of use. The floor itself was structurally sound — no loose or damaged blocks — but the finish had gone, the gaps between blocks had widened and the surface was visibly tired. The brief was to restore the floor to a good condition with a hard-we...

Project Overview

This Streatham project involved gap filling, full sanding and lacquering of a parquet floor that had become worn and dull after years of use. The floor itself was structurally sound — no loose or damaged blocks — but the finish had gone, the gaps between blocks had widened and the surface was visibly tired. The brief was to restore the floor to a good condition with a hard-wearing lacquer finish that would protect it for years without requiring ongoing specialist attention. Parquet sanding and lacquering in South London typically runs from £28 to £45 per square metre depending on the extent of gap filling required and the number of coats needed.

The Challenge

Sanding parquet correctly is more involved than sanding a straight-run plank floor. In a standard herringbone or basket-weave layout the blocks run in at least two directions, sometimes more. Running a belt sander along just one axis will sand cleanly with the grain on some blocks while cutting against the grain on others. Against-grain sanding leaves visible scratches that are extremely difficult to remove without taking the floor back down to bare wood again. The technique for parquet sanding requires using disc or planetary orbital machines that can work across multiple grain directions simultaneously, combined with careful passes along specific block runs for the final fine-grit stage. Getting this right demands experience and the right equipment.

Our Approach

Gap filling: We started by going over the full floor, checking block adhesion and assessing gaps. All blocks were solid and well-bonded, so no repair work was needed before filling. Fine gaps between blocks were filled with a resin and sawdust mix compatible with the species of timber. This mixture was pressed in firmly, levelled off flush and allowed to cure fully before any sanding began.

Sanding: We used a planetary orbital sander for the first passes to cut through the old finish and level the dried filler without risking against-grain damage. Once the bulk of the old finish was removed, careful belt sander passes along specific block run directions were used for the medium-grit stage. The floor was finished with a fine-grit pass using a random orbital for a smooth, clean surface throughout. Edge work and corners were done with detail equipment to match the quality of the main field.

Lacquering: Two coats of hard-wearing water-based lacquer were applied with a light sanding between coats. The client chose a satin sheen, which gives the parquet pattern good visual clarity without the high-gloss look that can make older parquet feel overly formal. The lacquer we used is formulated for residential floors with a high hardness rating, so it holds up well under normal daily traffic.

The Result

The finished floor looks clean, consistent and considerably more alive than when we started. The gaps are filled, the surface is smooth, the pattern reads clearly under the satin lacquer and the whole floor now has proper protection against daily wear. This Streatham parquet project shows what a difference professional sanding and lacquering can make to a floor that has simply been left too long without attention.

FAQ

How do I know whether my parquet floor needs sanding or just a topcoat of lacquer?
If the existing lacquer is still generally intact and the floor just looks dull, a thorough clean and a maintenance topcoat may be sufficient. If the lacquer has worn through to bare wood in traffic areas, or the surface is scratched below the finish layer, a full sand is needed before any new lacquer will bond and perform correctly. We can advise after a brief inspection.

Is it possible to change the sheen level when refinishing parquet?
Yes. When the floor is sanded back to bare wood, the existing sheen level is removed entirely. You can then choose any sheen from matt through to full gloss for the new finish. We carry a full range and can show you samples before we begin.

How often should parquet be professionally sanded?
In a normal domestic property with regular cleaning, most parquet floors benefit from a full sand and refinish every ten to fifteen years. High-traffic areas such as hallways may need attention sooner. Keeping the lacquer maintained — cleaning regularly with a suitable product and applying a maintenance topcoat if it starts to look worn in spots — extends the time between full sandings considerably.

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Project Overview This project in Wandsworth covered the routine maintenance of an engineered wood floor and a matching wooden staircase. Both surfaces were in good overall condition but had started to lose their original sheen and protection after a few years of everyday use. The owner wanted to preserve the floor rather than undertake a full sand, which was the right call given the floor's solid...

Project Overview

This project in Wandsworth covered the routine maintenance of an engineered wood floor and a matching wooden staircase. Both surfaces were in good overall condition but had started to lose their original sheen and protection after a few years of everyday use. The owner wanted to preserve the floor rather than undertake a full sand, which was the right call given the floor's solid condition. Re-oiling with a preparatory buff is one of the most cost-effective ways to keep an engineered wood floor in top shape, typically costing far less than a full sanding job.

The Challenge

Engineered wood floors have a top lamella of real hardwood, but that layer is thinner than a solid board. Over-sanding is the most common mistake made by inexperienced operators, and it can remove too much of the wear layer and leave the floor structurally compromised. For this Wandsworth floor, the finish had become dull and slightly worn in the heavy-traffic areas near doorways and the foot of the stairs, but the bare wood underneath was untouched. A full sand would have been unnecessary and wasteful. The challenge was determining the lightest effective treatment that would restore the protective barrier without cutting into the wood.

Our Approach

Inspection and assessment. We started by inspecting both the floor and the staircase under strong lighting to check for any deep scratches, loose boards or structural concerns that would require sanding before re-oiling. None were found.

Buffing the surface. Using a rotary buffing machine with a fine abrasive pad, we lightly abraded the surface of the floor and stair treads to remove the old, depleted oil layer and open the wood's pores. This creates the key the new oil needs to bond properly. Buffing also removes minor surface scuffs without taking any real wood off.

Applying the oil finish. Two coats of a high-quality oil finish were applied, allowing adequate drying time between coats. Oil finishes soak into the grain rather than sitting on top, so they nourish the wood from within and are far better at bringing out the natural colour and character of the boards than a lacquer coat over a dull surface.

Final inspection. Once dry, we went over both surfaces under good lighting to confirm even coverage, paying particular attention to the nosings on each stair tread as these receive the most wear.

The Result

The floor and stairs came up looking fresh and well-protected without requiring a full strip-back. The natural grain and warm tone of the wood were restored, and the new oil coat provides a good level of protection against spills and daily wear. The owner now has a straightforward maintenance schedule: a light re-oil every year or two will keep the surfaces in this condition indefinitely without ever needing a full sand. Re-oiling a floor costs considerably less per visit than a full sanding job, making it a practical long-term plan for anyone with an oiled finish.

Frequently Asked Questions

Does re-oiling an engineered floor require sanding first?
Not always. If the oil finish is simply worn rather than deeply scratched, a buff with a fine abrasive pad is enough to prepare the surface. Sanding is only needed when the floor has deeper damage that has penetrated through the finish into the wood.

How often does an engineered wood floor need re-oiling?
This depends on the level of traffic. In a family home with moderate use, re-oiling every one to two years is usually sufficient. High-traffic areas like hallways may need attention annually.

Can wooden stairs be re-oiled at the same time as the floor?
Yes, and it is advisable to do both at once so the finish matches. Stair treads are treated using smaller buffing equipment that can work around spindles and get into tight corners on each step.

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Project Overview This Romford property had a traditional pine parquet floor that had seen many decades of use. The overall pattern was intact and the wood itself was in reasonable condition, but closer inspection showed loose blocks, gaps between sections and a tired, heavily worn finish. Rather than ripping it out, the owners sensibly opted for a full restoration: re-gluing the loose blocks, fil...

Project Overview

This Romford property had a traditional pine parquet floor that had seen many decades of use. The overall pattern was intact and the wood itself was in reasonable condition, but closer inspection showed loose blocks, gaps between sections and a tired, heavily worn finish. Rather than ripping it out, the owners sensibly opted for a full restoration: re-gluing the loose blocks, filling the gaps and sanding and refinishing the surface. Parquet restoration typically falls in the higher end of the sanding price range at around £70-100 per square metre, but it is almost always better value than replacement given the character of original parquet floors.

The Challenge

Parquet floors present several challenges that solid plank floors do not. First, the blocks are laid in directional patterns, which means you cannot sand straight down the room in one direction. Sanding across the grain damages the surface, so parquet requires multiple diagonal and cross-grain passes with careful feathering at each stage. Second, loose blocks have to be identified and re-glued before any sanding takes place, because a block that lifts mid-sand can cause serious damage to the machine and uneven results. Third, the gaps in this floor were at different stages, some small and tight, others wide enough to trap debris. A uniform fill was needed that would blend with the rest of the surface after sanding.

Our Approach

Block inspection and re-gluing. We worked across the entire floor systematically, pressing each block to identify loose ones. Loose blocks were carefully lifted where necessary, the old adhesive was cleaned from the subfloor, and fresh flooring adhesive was used to refix them. Any blocks that were split or beyond saving were replaced with matching pine stock.

Gap filling. Once all blocks were secure and the adhesive had cured, we mixed a filler of natural resin and wood dust. This mixture remains slightly flexible when dry, which means it contracts and expands with the wood rather than cracking away from the edges. Using the sanding dust from the floor itself ensures the colour match is as close as possible.

Multi-pass sanding. The floor was sanded in several stages, starting with a coarser grit to remove the old finish and surface imperfections, then progressing to medium and fine grits to achieve a smooth, uniform surface. We worked diagonally across the herringbone pattern and used edging machines and corners scrapers to reach the areas the drum sander cannot access.

Refinishing. Two coats of a durable finish were applied to seal the floor and protect it from further wear.

The Result

The finished floor looked completely different to the one we started with. Every trace of the old worn finish was gone, the blocks sat level and tight with no movement, and the gaps had been filled to an almost invisible finish. The natural warmth and pattern of the pine parquet came back fully once the new finish was applied. This floor will now last many more decades with normal maintenance.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does parquet floor restoration take?
A typical residential parquet floor of around 20-40 square metres takes two to three days, allowing for drying time between the gap fill and the final finish coats.

What is used to fill the gaps in parquet floors?
We mix a paste of natural wood resin and sawdust collected during sanding. This gives a colour-matched, flexible filler that does not shrink or crack when the floor moves seasonally.

Is it worth restoring old parquet rather than replacing it?
Almost always yes. Original parquet, particularly in older London homes, is often made from better-quality wood than modern equivalents and has a character that is hard to replicate. Restoration costs a fraction of replacement and the results can be remarkable.

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Project Overview This solid wood floor in Lewisham had been in place for many years and showed the typical signs of age and heavy use. Several boards were beyond repair, gaps had opened between others, and the finish across the whole floor was severely worn. The job required a combination of board replacement, gap filling and a full sand and refinish to bring the floor back to a usable, attractiv...

Project Overview

This solid wood floor in Lewisham had been in place for many years and showed the typical signs of age and heavy use. Several boards were beyond repair, gaps had opened between others, and the finish across the whole floor was severely worn. The job required a combination of board replacement, gap filling and a full sand and refinish to bring the floor back to a usable, attractive condition. Projects like this, which combine structural repair with cosmetic restoration, are good examples of why early professional assessment saves money in the long run. Sanding costs in London typically run from £25 to £45 per square metre depending on the condition of the floor and what prep work is needed.

The Challenge

The most time-consuming part of this project was sourcing replacement boards that would blend with the original floor. Real wood floors in older properties are often made from timber that is no longer readily available in standard dimensions, so finding a match requires working with specialist suppliers and sometimes accepting a slight variation in width or colour that will even out after sanding. The structural condition of the subfloor also needed checking before any new boards went down. Once replacement was done, the transitions between old and new boards had to be sanded smooth so no ridge was left visible. Additionally, the gaps were varied in size from hairline to several millimetres, each requiring a different approach to filling.

Our Approach

Board assessment and replacement. We walked the floor carefully to identify every damaged or unsound board. Boards that had split, cracked severely or could not be re-secured were lifted, and new boards of a matching species and thickness were cut and fitted. Nail holes from the old boards were filled.

Gap filling. The gaps were filled using a resin and sawdust compound mixed to match the existing floor colour. Larger gaps were built up in stages to avoid shrinkage. Once dry and cured, the filler was level with the surrounding boards.

Progressive sanding. The floor was sanded in multiple passes, starting with a medium grit to remove the old finish and flatten any transitions between old and new boards, then moving to fine grits to produce a smooth, consistent surface across the whole floor.

Finishing. Two coats of a hard-wearing lacquer were applied to seal and protect the surface. The lacquer brings out the colour of the wood and provides a durable barrier against everyday wear.

The Result

The floor came out looking uniform and fresh. The new boards blended well once sanded and finished, and the gap-filled areas were barely detectable. The owners now have a solid, stable floor with a proper protective finish that will stand up well to daily life. The whole restoration was significantly cheaper than replacing the floor with new timber.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do you match replacement boards to an old floor?
We work with a network of specialist timber suppliers who stock reclaimed and reproduction boards in period dimensions. Sanding the whole floor after fitting new boards helps blend old and new by giving everything a uniform colour and finish.

Can all gaps in floorboards be filled?
Most gaps can be filled effectively with a resin and wood dust mixture. Very wide gaps, usually those over about 8mm, may need a pine sliver rather than filler paste to give a stable, long-lasting result.

How long does a sanding and repair job take on an average room?
A single room of 15-25 square metres with board replacements and gap filling usually takes two days: one day for the structural work and the fill to cure, and a second day for sanding and finishing.

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Project Overview A beautiful parquet floor in Hampstead had developed a number of problems that needed addressing. The finish was heavily worn, gaps had appeared across the block pattern, and the overall surface looked dull and tired. The owners had owned the property for several years and wanted to restore the floor to its original standard before redecorating. Parquet floors in Hampstead proper...

Project Overview

A beautiful parquet floor in Hampstead had developed a number of problems that needed addressing. The finish was heavily worn, gaps had appeared across the block pattern, and the overall surface looked dull and tired. The owners had owned the property for several years and wanted to restore the floor to its original standard before redecorating. Parquet floors in Hampstead properties are often original to the house and made from quality hardwood, so restoration is nearly always the right choice. Professional parquet sanding in London typically costs in the region of £70 to £100 per square metre due to the additional skill and time required compared to a standard plank floor.

The Challenge

Parquet floors are sanded differently to straight-plank floors because the blocks run in multiple directions to form the pattern. Sanding always has to follow the grain; otherwise the cross-grain scratching left by the machine becomes visible under the finish. On a herringbone or basket-weave pattern, achieving a consistent, scratch-free surface requires diagonal sanding passes at specific angles, careful edging around the perimeter, and detailed hand scraping in tight spots. The gap filling on this floor also required more attention than usual because the gaps were not uniform, varying in width depending on where the floor had contracted most. Each section had to be filled to the right level without overfilling.

Our Approach

Full floor inspection. Before any sanding, we checked every block for looseness and the subfloor for any soft spots or movement. All loose blocks were re-glued and left to cure before we moved on.

Gap filling with resin mixture. We mixed natural resin with the fine dust generated during the first sanding pass to produce a filler that closely matched the floor colour. The filler was pressed firmly into each gap, allowed to cure fully, then lightly sanded flush with the surface.

Multi-stage sanding. The floor was sanded in three stages using progressively finer grits. The initial passes worked diagonally across the pattern to remove the old finish and any deeper surface imperfections. Subsequent passes followed closer to the grain direction to eliminate any cross-scratch marks. Edge sanding and hand scraping completed the perimeter.

Lacquer finish application. At the client's request, two coats of a high-quality lacquer were applied. Lacquer was chosen for its durability and the clean, clear finish it gives to a classic parquet pattern.

The Result

The restored floor was a significant improvement on what we arrived to. The old, dull finish was completely removed, the gaps were invisible, and the lacquer brought out the full depth of colour in the hardwood blocks. The pattern looked crisp and precise once the surface was flat and uniformly finished. The owners were very pleased with the result, and the floor now sits at the heart of a freshly redecorated room looking exactly as it should.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why does parquet sanding cost more than sanding a straight-plank floor?
Parquet requires multiple sanding angles rather than one straight pass, takes longer per square metre, and demands more experience to avoid visible cross-grain scratching. The additional time and skill involved accounts for the higher rate.

How many times can a parquet floor be sanded in its lifetime?
This depends on the thickness of the blocks. Solid parquet blocks are typically 22mm thick, and each full sand removes around 0.5 to 1mm of wood, so a well-maintained parquet floor can be sanded many times before the blocks become too thin.

Is lacquer or oil a better finish for parquet?
Both work well. Lacquer gives a harder, more durable surface film that is good for high-traffic rooms. Oil gives a more natural look and feel and is easier to spot-repair, but needs re-applying more regularly. The choice comes down to preference and how much maintenance the owner wants to carry out.

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Project Overview This hardwood floor in Wandsworth had been in the property for many years and was showing the typical signs of age: gaps between the boards, a worn and scratched finish, and a generally tired appearance. The owners wanted the floor brought back to a proper standard without replacement, which is a very sensible approach for solid hardwood. A good sanding and refinishing job on a s...

Project Overview

This hardwood floor in Wandsworth had been in the property for many years and was showing the typical signs of age: gaps between the boards, a worn and scratched finish, and a generally tired appearance. The owners wanted the floor brought back to a proper standard without replacement, which is a very sensible approach for solid hardwood. A good sanding and refinishing job on a solid wood floor will take it back to brand-new condition, and the floor can be sanded multiple times over its lifetime. Professional floor sanding in London is priced from around £25 to £45 per square metre, with gap filling usually charged on top depending on the extent of the work needed.

The Challenge

The main concern on this floor was the gap situation. Several boards had contracted noticeably, leaving visible gaps of between 3mm and 6mm that were affecting the stability and insulation of the floor and were also collecting dust and dirt. Gaps in a hardwood floor are not just cosmetic; they can allow draughts from below, reduce the thermal performance of the floor and, if left untreated, allow moisture to get in from underneath. The gaps also needed to be filled before sanding, because the filler cures best into a stable, untouched surface rather than on freshly sanded wood. Getting the sequence right was important for a long-lasting result.

Our Approach

Initial inspection and preparation. We checked the whole floor for loose or squeaking boards and secured any that needed it before starting. Squeaking boards cause problems during sanding because they can shift slightly under the machine and leave uneven patches.

Pine sliver gap filling. For the larger gaps, we used pine slivers cut and planed to fit precisely. Pine slivers give a far more stable and durable result than filler paste in wide gaps, and they move naturally with the wood as seasons change. Smaller gaps were filled with the standard resin and wood dust mixture.

Sanding sequence. Starting with a heavy belt sander for the main area and progressing through medium and fine grits, we worked the entire floor to a smooth, even finish. The edging machine and corner scraper then dealt with the perimeter.

Lacquer application. Two coats of a high-quality clear lacquer were applied, with a light flat and buff between coats to ensure a smooth, durable final surface.

The Result

The finished floor was completely transformed. All the gaps had been eliminated, the surface was smooth and uniform throughout, and the lacquer finish gave the wood a rich, clear appearance that highlighted the natural grain. The floor felt noticeably more solid underfoot than before, and the draught issue was resolved. The owners were left with a floor that looks new and will continue to look good with routine care for many years ahead.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do gaps in a hardwood floor always need filling before sanding?
It is generally recommended to fill gaps before the final sanding pass. Filling before sanding allows the filler to be sanded flush with the boards in the same operation, which gives a cleaner result than trying to fill a freshly sanded surface.

How are wide gaps in a hardwood floor filled?
For gaps wider than about 4mm, we cut and fit pine slivers to size. These are glued in place and, once the adhesive cures, planed or sanded flush with the rest of the floor. This method is far more durable than filler paste in wide gaps.

How long will the lacquer finish last?
In a residential property with normal use, a good quality lacquer finish will last several years before showing significant wear. High-traffic areas like hallways may need a re-coat sooner, but the finish can be re-applied without a full sand if it is done before the lacquer wears through to the bare wood.

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Project Overview This Kensington property had a substantial hardwood floor throughout the main reception areas along with a wooden staircase running to the upper floors. Both the floor and the stairs had been in the property for many years and were suffering from heavy wear, deep scratches and a finish that had long since given up providing any meaningful protection. Taking on both the floor and ...

Project Overview

This Kensington property had a substantial hardwood floor throughout the main reception areas along with a wooden staircase running to the upper floors. Both the floor and the stairs had been in the property for many years and were suffering from heavy wear, deep scratches and a finish that had long since given up providing any meaningful protection. Taking on both the floor and the stairs in a single visit meant minimal disruption for the owners and a consistent final appearance throughout. Sanding and refinishing in a high-value London property is always worthwhile because the quality of the underlying wood usually justifies the investment.

The Challenge

The floor itself presented a fairly standard sanding job, but the staircase added significant complexity. Wooden stairs experience more concentrated wear than a floor because every footstep lands on roughly the same spot on each tread. The nosings were particularly worn, with deep grooves in some areas. Sanding stairs requires a completely different set of equipment to floor sanding: smaller drum sanders for the treads, detail sanders and scrapers for the corners and risers, and careful hand work around the spindles and newel posts. Getting an even result across both the horizontal treads and the vertical risers, while working around the staircase fittings, is time-consuming but important for a quality finish.

Our Approach

Structural check. Before any sanding, we tested every tread for movement or squeaking and secured any that needed attention. Loose treads create an uneven surface under the sanding machine and can be a safety issue once the refinishing is complete.

Floor sanding. The floor was sanded in the standard sequence of progressively finer grits, from heavy belt sanding to remove the old finish and deep scratches, through to fine finishing passes. Edging and corners were completed by hand.

Stair sanding. Each tread and riser was sanded individually using appropriate equipment. The nosings, which were the most worn elements, required careful grading to achieve an even surface without creating a visible step between the worn centre and the less-worn edges.

Lacquer application on both surfaces. Two coats of lacquer were applied to the floor and the stairs. The lacquer was allowed to cure fully between coats, and a light buff between applications ensured a very smooth final film.

The Result

The transformation across the whole ground floor was significant. The floor and stairs now matched in finish and colour, giving the space a coherent and well-maintained look. All the deep scratches and worn patches on the treads had been removed, and the lacquer finish gave both surfaces a clear, durable protective coating. The owners were delighted with how the floor and staircase looked together, and the property as a whole benefited from the work.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can wooden stairs be sanded at the same time as the floor?
Yes, and it is usually more efficient to do both in one visit. The same crew and equipment can be used for both, and having a single finish applied across floor and stairs gives a much more consistent result than tackling them at different times.

How long does it take to sand and refinish a flight of stairs?
A standard straight staircase of 12 to 14 treads typically takes a full day to sand and finish properly, assuming the risers and spindle areas are included. The lacquer will then need 24 to 48 hours to harden before the stairs can be walked on.

What finish is best for wooden stairs?
Lacquer is generally the most practical choice for stairs because of its hardness and resistance to concentrated wear. It can take a heavier footfall than oil without showing wear as quickly, which matters a lot on a staircase used by the whole household every day.

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Project Overview This engineered wood floor in Hither Green had accumulated years of surface wear and was beginning to show scratches, dull patches and scuff marks that were spoiling the appearance of an otherwise good-quality floor. Engineered wood floors can be sanded and refinished just like solid wood, though the number of times this can be done is limited by the thickness of the hardwood top...

Project Overview

This engineered wood floor in Hither Green had accumulated years of surface wear and was beginning to show scratches, dull patches and scuff marks that were spoiling the appearance of an otherwise good-quality floor. Engineered wood floors can be sanded and refinished just like solid wood, though the number of times this can be done is limited by the thickness of the hardwood top layer. In this case, the floor had plenty of wear layer remaining, making a full sanding and lacquering the correct solution. The result returned the floor to a condition that looked and felt brand new.

The Challenge

Engineered floors require more caution during sanding than solid boards because there is less material to work with above the ply core. Applying too aggressive a grit or making too many passes removes too much of the hardwood lamella and can expose the plywood beneath. The initial grit selection has to be carefully judged: coarse enough to remove the old finish and surface imperfections efficiently, but not so heavy that it cuts through the wear layer before the job is done. The sanding equipment used needs to be correctly set up for the thickness of the top layer and checked regularly during the job to confirm progress.

Our Approach

Pre-sanding assessment. We checked the wear layer depth at several points across the floor before starting. This confirmed there was sufficient material to proceed with a full sand.

Controlled sanding sequence. The floor was sanded using a sequence of grits starting at medium rather than coarse, given the engineered construction. This approach takes slightly longer but is the right method for protecting the wear layer. Multiple passes at increasing fineness brought the surface to a smooth, even finish throughout.

Edge sanding and detailing. The perimeter was worked with an edge sander and the corners finished by hand to ensure the whole floor was consistent.

Lacquer application. Two coats of lacquer were applied with adequate curing time between coats. Lacquer was the chosen finish because of the high level of traffic in the main living areas of this property. The hard film it creates is the most effective protection for an engineered floor in daily use.

The Result

The finished floor was smooth, bright and well-protected. All the scratches and scuff marks had been removed, the colour of the wood came back to life under the lacquer, and the surface felt solid and even underfoot. The owners now have a floor that looks as good as it did when it was first installed. With proper care and periodic maintenance, engineered floors can be kept in this condition for many years before needing another sanding cycle.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I know whether my engineered floor can be sanded?
The key factor is the thickness of the hardwood wear layer on top. Most engineered floors have a layer of between 3mm and 6mm. If the layer is at least 3mm, a light sand is usually safe. A professional can measure the thickness before starting and advise on what is possible.

Is lacquer the best finish for an engineered wood floor?
Lacquer is a very practical choice for high-traffic areas because it creates a hard, durable surface film. Oil finishes are also suitable and give a more natural look, but they need re-applying more often. The right choice depends on use and personal preference.

How long before I can use the floor after lacquering?
Most lacquers are touch-dry within a few hours and can take light foot traffic after around 24 hours. Full hardness is usually reached after five to seven days. During this period, avoid dragging furniture across the surface.

Have a similar project? Call us on 020 88309782 or Book a Free Site Visit