All Projects Renovations Installations

Project Overview

This project involved the professional sanding and restoration of an existing wood floor at a property in W4, London. The floor had seen years of daily wear and was in need of attention to bring it back to a quality finish. Our team carried out a full assessment before starting work, checking for any boards that needed attention alongside the main sanding and finishing work.

Before the Work

Before work began, the floor showed typical signs of wear. Surface scratches, dull patches, and general finish deterioration were present. A thorough survey was carried out to plan the correct sanding depth, assess board condition, and choose the most appropriate finish for the space.

Survey photos showing the floor condition before work:

Our Approach

The following services were carried out as part of this project:

• Beading Installation (incl. materials)
• Doors Plus Frame Trimming (per door)
• Engineered - Sand, Buff & Lacquer
• Lift & Dispose Carpets or Laminates
• Parquet Floor Fitting - No Border
• Subfloor Preparation (ply 9 mm)
• Thresholds & Fitting (inc. materials)

The Result

Once the sanding and finishing process was complete, the floor was transformed. The wood grain was opened up and brought back to life, the surface was smooth and even, and the new finish provided lasting protection. The client was left with a floor that looked, and performed, as good as new.

Photos of the completed work:

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does floor sanding take?
Most residential sanding jobs are completed in one to two days, depending on floor size and condition. Lacquering or oiling adds further drying and curing time, which we factor into the job schedule.

Do I need to vacate the property during sanding?
Modern dustless sanding equipment keeps dust to a minimum, but we recommend keeping pets and young children clear of the area during the work. Most clients remain in their property throughout.

How much does floor sanding cost in London?
Prices typically range from £25 to £45 per square metre depending on floor condition, finish type, and any repair work required. Gap filling and board replacement are priced separately if needed.

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Project Overview

This project at a Victorian terraced property in Clapton, E5 involved a full floor sanding and restoration across multiple rooms and the main staircase. The work included sanding, buffing and lacquering the existing pine floorboards, sealing the stairs, closing wider board gaps with timber slivers, refitting loose boards, replacing a section of damaged floorboards, and removing the fireplace hearth. The job was surveyed and completed by our East London team from start to finish.

The Challenge

Victorian pine floors take a long time to get into poor condition, and they take careful preparation to bring back properly. At 182 Rushmore Road the main challenges were:

• Multiple loose boards creaking underfoot, which needed securing before any sanding could begin — sanding over a moving board splits the finish and causes it to crack within months
• Wider gaps between boards throughout the property, some significant enough to cause draughts from below
• A section of floorboards that were too damaged to sand and needed replacing with matching timber
• A fireplace hearth that had to be removed before the surrounding floor area could be treated evenly
• Stairs that were worn through to bare timber and needed sanding and sealing to match the quality of the floors below

None of these are unusual in an E5 Victorian terrace, but getting the sequence right matters. The prep work has to come first, or the finish will not hold.

Our Approach

The work was carried out in a logical sequence to protect each completed stage:

• Loose board refitting: All creaking and loose boards were identified, lifted where necessary and re-secured to the joists before any sanding equipment came onto the floor.
• Floorboard replacement: A section of boards that were beyond sanding were replaced with matching timber, fitted flush and left to settle.
• Gap closing with slivers: Wider gaps across the floors were packed with fitted timber slivers, which were planed level once dry. This removes draughts and gives the floor a much cleaner finish under lacquer.
• Fireplace hearth removal: The hearth was taken out cleanly, with surrounding boards trimmed and fitted to close the area before sanding.
• Floor sanding and buffing: The floors were sanded in passes from coarse through to fine grade, removing the old finish, surface damage and any inconsistency left from the prep stages. The boards were then buffed to a smooth, even surface ready for finishing.
• Lacquering: Multiple coats of lacquer were applied with sanding between coats to achieve a hard, consistent finish that will stand up to daily use.
• Stair sanding and sealing: The staircase treads and risers were sanded back and sealed to a finish that complements the lacquered floors below.

The Result

The floors throughout the property are now solid, smooth and properly finished. The loose boards no longer move, the gaps are closed, and the lacquer gives the timber a clean, consistent look that works with the age of the building. The staircase holds its own alongside the restored floors below. This is the kind of job where the before and after photos do the talking — the boards were always good, they just needed the right treatment to show it.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does floor sanding take for a whole house?
For a property of this size in Clapton or East London, a full sand, buff and lacquer typically takes three to five days depending on the number of rooms, the condition of the boards and how many prep stages are required. Stairs add half a day to a day on top. We always carry out a survey first so we can give an accurate programme before work starts.

How much does floor sanding cost in London?
Floor sanding in London generally runs at £25 to £45 per square metre for sand, buff and lacquer. A typical whole-house job tends to fall between £2,000 and £6,000. The final figure depends on floor area, board condition, the finish specified and any prep work needed — loose boards, gap filling, replacements and hearth removal all add to the scope. We provide itemised quotes so there are no surprises.

Can you sand floors without moving all the furniture?
Large items need to come out of each room before we start. We work room by room where possible to limit disruption, but the sanding equipment needs clear access to the full floor area to produce an even finish. We will always discuss the programme with you at the survey stage so you can plan ahead.

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Project Overview

This project involved restoring a solid engineered oak floor in a London living room. The floor had accumulated years of daily wear — surface scratches across the main walking routes, and deeper structural damage in one concentrated spot where a large piano had stood for an extended period. The client wanted to avoid a full replacement and was keen to see how much of the original character could be saved.

The Challenge

Upon inspection, the floor displayed a combination of superficial scuffs and deep gouges in high-traffic and load-bearing areas. The most significant damage was located beneath the piano, where the legs had left visible, concentrated indentations over time.

Engineered flooring comes with a wear layer of varying thickness — typically between 3mm and 6mm on quality boards. Before any sanding begins, that wear layer has to be measured carefully. Sand too aggressively and you risk breaking through to the core. The piano indentations added a further complication: simple sanding alone would not be enough to level them out.

Our Approach

We started with a detailed inspection under raking light to map every scratch, scuff, and indentation. This let us prioritise areas that needed filler work before sanding started.

The piano leg depressions were treated first. We applied a two-part wood filler, colour-matched to the oak, building it slightly proud of the surface so that subsequent sanding could bring it flush. The filler was left to cure fully — rushing this step leads to shrinkage and a visible repair. Once set, we feathered the edges with a detail sander so the repair blended into the surrounding grain.

With the deep repairs done, we moved to the main floor. We used a Bona belt sander with a fine-to-medium sequence, working with the grain throughout. Because engineered wear layers are thinner than solid wood, we kept passes controlled and checked depth regularly. The surface scratches came out cleanly through this process.

After sanding, we buffed the entire floor with a fine mesh pad to create a consistent surface ready for finishing. The client opted for a mid-sheen water-based lacquer, which was applied in three coats with light sanding between each. Water-based products dry quickly, have low odour, and do not yellow over time — a practical choice for a frequently used living room.

The Result

Following the restoration, the floor exhibited a dramatic improvement in both appearance and feel underfoot. All surface scratches were eliminated, and the areas previously damaged by the piano legs were expertly filled and blended to match the surrounding finish.

The client commented that the floor looked better than it had in years. Total project time was two days: one for repairs and sanding, one for the three lacquer coats. The floor was ready for light use 24 hours after the final coat.

Frequently Asked Questions

How many times can engineered flooring be sanded?
That depends on the thickness of the wear layer. Most quality engineered boards have a 3mm to 6mm layer, which allows between one and three full sandings. Boards with a 2mm layer can usually only be lightly buffed rather than properly sanded. We always check wear layer depth before quoting, so there are no surprises.

Can piano or heavy furniture indentations be repaired without replacing boards?
In most cases, yes. If the indentation has not cracked the board or compressed the wood fibres beyond repair, a two-part filler approach works well. The repair is not invisible under close inspection, but at standing height and in normal light it is not noticeable. If the board is severely crushed, board replacement is the cleaner option.

What does engineered floor restoration cost in London?
For a standard living room, floor sanding and restoration typically runs between £25 and £45 per square metre in London, depending on the condition, finish choice, and whether any board repairs are needed. Repair work such as filler treatment for deep marks is usually quoted as a separate fixed cost on top of the sanding rate.

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Project Overview

This restoration project covered two distinct and historically significant parquet styles in a single property: Versailles oak panels and walnut mosaic finger parquet. Both required careful, sympathetic treatment to bring them back to the standard the client expected. Projects combining different parquet formats are less common and require switching approach mid-job, so planning was essential before work began.

The Challenge

The original flooring comprised two distinct styles: a classic walnut mosaic finger parquet and elegant Versailles oak panels. Over time, both had suffered noticeable wear and tear, diminishing their visual appeal and structural integrity.

In the walnut mosaic area, the surface showed multiple scuff marks and scratches, with visible dullness due to accumulated grime and fading finish. The parquet blocks had shifted slightly in places, and some sections were uneven or loose, clear signs of age and prolonged use.

The Versailles panels presented a different set of problems. The geometric pattern of these panels means that sanding must follow the grain of each section separately, or cross-grain scratches become visible in the finish. Previous coats of finish had also darkened unevenly, making some sections appear blotchy.

Our Approach

We began with the walnut mosaic area. Loose and shifted blocks were lifted, cleaned, and re-glued with a suitable parquet adhesive before anything else happened. Trying to sand over a loose or uneven block risks catching the sander and damaging the block edge, so this preparation step was not optional.

Once the blocks were secure and adhesive cured, we sanded the walnut mosaic using a rotary machine fitted with fine abrasive, working in the direction that best followed the finger pattern. Walnut is a dense hardwood and holds its grain well, so it responds cleanly to careful sanding. The surface came up with good colour contrast and natural depth.

The Versailles panels were handled differently. We used a combination of a drum sander along the main grain direction and a detail sander for the internal mitre sections of each panel. This takes longer than sanding a straight-run floor, but it is the only way to avoid visible scratch patterns across the grain. Each panel was treated individually and checked before moving on.

Both floor areas were finished with a hard-wax oil chosen to complement the different tones of oak and walnut without making one look artificially darker than the other. Two coats were applied, with a light buff between coats.

The Result

Following a complete restoration process, the transformation of both the Walnut Mosaic Finger Parquet and the Versailles Oak Panels is nothing short of remarkable. The walnut mosaic flooring has been revived with renewed depth and richness. Each individual finger block was cleaned, re-secured, and refinished, restoring the natural warmth and contrast of the walnut grain. The surface is now smooth, even, and finished with a durable, low-sheen protective coat that improves both appearance and longevity.

The Versailles panels, meanwhile, regained their geometric clarity and the warm honey tones that define good-quality oak. The client described it as looking "the way it must have looked when it was first laid."

Frequently Asked Questions

Can walnut parquet and oak Versailles panels be finished with the same product?
It depends on the desired result. Walnut is naturally darker than oak, so the same oil or lacquer will read differently on each. We typically choose a neutral or lightly tinted finish that works across both species, then adjust by applying an additional coat to the lighter areas if needed to balance the tones.

How do you handle loose parquet blocks before sanding?
Loose blocks are lifted, the old adhesive is cleaned from both the block and the subfloor, and they are re-glued with a specialist parquet adhesive. We then weight them and allow full cure time before sanding. Sanding over loose blocks causes uneven results and can crack the block edges.

What does parquet restoration cost in London?
Parquet sanding and finishing runs from around £30 to £50 per square metre in London, depending on species, pattern complexity, and condition. Versailles panels and other geometric formats typically fall at the higher end because of the time required to sand them correctly without cross-grain marks.

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Project Overview

This project was a ballroom floor restoration in Mayfair, one of the most demanding environments we work in. The floor was a walnut herringbone parquet, laid in the classic 45-degree pattern. The client needed the floor freshened up and lightened ahead of a scheduled event, and the brief included a specific challenge: the room contained a full-size stuffed giraffe that could not be moved. Our team had to plan the job around it.

The Challenge

The client needed to refresh and brighten their ballroom to meet the high expectations of an upcoming event. The existing Walnut Herringbone Parquet had lost its charm and required professional restoration.

Walnut presents specific sanding challenges. It is a dense, oily species that responds differently to abrasives compared to oak or pine. The herringbone pattern adds another layer of complexity: because the blocks run at 45 degrees, the sanding direction needs to change constantly to avoid tearing the grain on half the blocks. Running a drum sander straight down the room on a herringbone will leave clear scratch marks across every other block.

The requirement to make the floor look lighter added further thought. Walnut's natural tone is deep brown, and it can be difficult to brighten without changing the character of the wood. A bleaching treatment was considered and discussed with the client, but ultimately the decision was to use a white hard-wax oil, which adds a subtle lightening effect while keeping the natural grain visible.

Our Approach

We worked diagonally across the herringbone pattern using a belt sander, which is the standard approach for this layout. This direction cuts across both sets of blocks at the same angle, so neither is sanded with or against its grain in a way that causes tearing. The abrasive sequence started coarse enough to remove the old finish and surface damage, then moved through medium and fine grits to achieve a clean, even surface.

The area around the giraffe was handled with a detail sander and hand-sanding blocks. It was slower, but the result was consistent with the main floor. Anything less careful would have left a visible patch.

Once sanding was complete, we vacuumed and tacked the floor thoroughly before applying the finish. The white hard-wax oil was worked in by hand and with a buffing machine, building up two coats with a 24-hour interval between them. The product sits in the wood rather than on top of it, which gives a more natural look and is easier to spot-repair in future.

The Result

Our team precisely restored the parquet flooring to perfection, bringing out its rich tones while achieving the lighter look the client had requested. Given the prestigious Mayfair location and the pressure of the upcoming event, the standard of attention to detail needed to be high. The finished floor was ready in time and met the brief without compromise.

The giraffe, for its part, was entirely unfazed.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do you sand a herringbone parquet floor without damaging the grain?
The key is sanding diagonally, at 45 degrees to both sets of blocks. This puts you cutting slightly across the grain on every block rather than severely along it or against it on alternating ones. Combined with a fine final grit, the result is a clean surface without tearing.

Can walnut parquet be made to look lighter without bleaching?
Yes. A white-tinted or natural hard-wax oil will reflect more light from the surface and reduce the apparent depth of the dark walnut tone. It is a subtle effect rather than a dramatic one, but it works well for clients who want to keep the species character while brightening the room. Full bleaching is possible but changes the wood more significantly.

What does parquet floor sanding cost in Mayfair?
In Mayfair and central London generally, parquet sanding and finishing starts around £35 per square metre and can reach £55 or more for complex patterns, species that require extra care, or jobs with access constraints. We price based on the actual conditions rather than a flat rate.

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Project Overview

This South Norwood project covered a full floorboard restoration in a residential property. The scope included replacing damaged boards, gap filling throughout, sanding, and applying a lacquer finish. New thresholds were fitted at doorways, and the boards were staggered during installation to improve both the look and the structural performance of the floor.

The Challenge

The client's floor was showing significant signs of damage, with several floorboards cracked or warped. Gaps were evident, and the overall appearance was dull. The flooring did not have the cohesive look the client was after, and it required a comprehensive restoration to address both function and appearance.

South Norwood properties of this age often have Victorian-era softwood floorboards that have moved and dried out considerably over the decades. Gaps between boards are common and can be considerable. A floor in this condition is draughty, collects dirt easily, and does not look good once a finish is applied because the gaps read as dark lines across the surface.

Our Approach

The first step was a thorough assessment of which boards could be saved and which needed replacing. Cracked and warped boards were lifted and set aside. Replacement boards were sourced to match the existing dimensions and were fitted with the boards staggered, which distributes any movement more evenly across the floor and looks better once finished.

Once the new boards were in, the entire floor was sanded using a drum sander, working along the grain from one end of the room to the other. This process removed the surface layer of old finish, grime, and minor imperfections, leaving a clean and even timber surface throughout.

Gap filling came next. We used a mixed-wood filler, which is made by combining fine sanding dust from the floor with a flexible filler compound. This produces a colour-matched fill that moves slightly with the boards through seasonal changes. Rigid fillers tend to crack in gaps over time. The mixed approach is more durable and blends into the floor more naturally.

After the filler dried, we buffed the surface smooth and applied a hard-wearing lacquer in three coats. Each coat was allowed to dry and then lightly abraded before the next was applied. New thresholds were fitted at all doorways to complete the work.

The Result

The transformation was substantial. The newly installed and lacquered floorboards exude warmth and character, with a consistent finish throughout. The gaps are filled, creating a much more cohesive surface, while the new thresholds add a neat finish at doorways. Staggering the replacement boards improved the visual balance of the floor and reinforced its durability. The client now has a floor that looks well-kept and will be easier to maintain going forward.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the best gap-filling method for old floorboards?
The most durable approach is a flexible, mixed filler made using fine sanding dust from the actual floor. This creates a colour-matched fill that can flex slightly as the boards move with changes in humidity. Rigid fillers, including some off-the-shelf products, tend to crack and fall out over time, particularly in older floors where movement is greater.

Do all damaged floorboards need replacing, or can they be repaired?
Many can be salvaged. Light cracks, cupping, and surface damage can usually be addressed through sanding. Boards with deep splits, severe warping, or structural damage are better replaced. We assess each board individually rather than assuming replacement is needed, because matching old timber is not always straightforward and avoiding unnecessary work keeps costs down.

What does floorboard sanding and restoration cost in South Norwood?
A full restoration covering sanding, gap filling, and two or three coats of lacquer typically runs between £25 and £40 per square metre in South Norwood and the wider South London area. Board replacement is charged separately based on the number of boards and sourcing difficulty.

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Project Overview

This Walthamstow project was one of the more involved jobs on our books for the period. It covered floorboard replacement in multiple rooms, gap filling and sanding throughout the property, stair sanding and sealing, and the installation of Rockwool underfloor insulation in the living room. The piano also needed moving, which required careful planning to avoid damaging the newly prepared subfloor. The full scope from start to finish took several days.

The Challenge

The floorboards in this space were showing clear signs of wear and tear, with some boards beyond repair and in need of replacement. The stairs had also lost their lustre and required sanding and sealing to revitalise them. Additionally, the living room floorboards needed lifting for insulation installation, adding another layer of complexity to the project.

Victorian terraces in Walthamstow regularly have suspended timber ground floors with little or no insulation beneath. Heat escapes through the floor, and draughts come up through gaps in the boards. The client was aware of this and wanted to address it properly at the same time as the cosmetic restoration, which meant lifting and relaying the living room boards in addition to all the sanding and finishing work.

Our Approach

We started in the living room, lifting the floorboards carefully so they could be relaid afterwards. Boards were numbered as they came up to make relaying in the correct position straightforward. Rockwool insulation slabs were cut to fit between the joists and pressed into place, then covered with a breathable membrane before the boards were refitted. The boards went back down in sequence, and any that were damaged beyond reuse were replaced with matching timber.

Damaged boards in other rooms were identified and replaced before sanding began. The replacement boards were fitted flush, and any nail heads were punched below the surface to avoid damaging sanding belts. The entire floor area, including all rooms, was then sanded in sequence using a drum sander along the grain.

Gap filling came after the first sanding pass. We used a mixed-dust filler to match the floor tone and applied it across the whole surface, working it into the gaps with a float. Once dry, a second fine sanding pass was run to remove any filler that had dried on the surface and leave a clean result.

The stairs were sanded separately using a detail sander on the treads and a belt sander where access allowed. Nosings were treated with particular care — they take the most foot traffic and the most wear, so the finish needed to be consistent and durable. All surfaces were lacquered with two to three coats.

The Result

The floorboards across the property were completely transformed. The replacement of damaged boards restored structural integrity, and gap filling produced a smooth, even surface throughout. The stairs now have a clean, renewed finish, with the lacquer bringing out the natural grain of the wood. In the living room, the Rockwool insulation has made a noticeable difference to the warmth of the room. The boards were refitted and finished to match the rest of the property, so the work is not visible but the improvement in comfort is immediate. The piano was managed without incident.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is it worth adding underfloor insulation when restoring floorboards?
For suspended timber ground floors, yes, it usually is. Lifting and relaying the boards adds cost, but if the floor is already being restored, the additional disruption is relatively minor. Rockwool or rigid insulation between the joists can reduce heat loss significantly in older properties, and it helps with draughts too.

How do you sand stairs professionally?
Stairs are sanded using a combination of tools: a belt or orbital sander on the treads, a detail sander for the corners, and hand-sanding for the spindle bases and any tight spots. It is slow, methodical work compared to open floor sanding, and it takes longer per square metre. Nosings and edges need particular attention because they wear faster and need a solid finish coat.

What does floorboard restoration cost in Walthamstow?
For a typical Victorian terrace in Walthamstow, floor sanding and lacquering runs around £25 to £40 per square metre. Stair sanding is usually priced per staircase or per tread. Insulation installation is an additional cost based on the area and access involved. We quote each project individually once we have seen the conditions.

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Project Overview

This project in Twickenham involved a full parquet floor restoration in a period property. The scope was substantial: subfloor repairs, replacement of damaged parquet blocks using reclaimed matching timber, gap filling across the whole floor, sanding, and lacquering. The floor had not been touched in many years and needed work at every level before it could be refinished properly.

The Challenge

The initial state of this parquet floor presented a series of challenges. The subfloor and parquet floor had noticeable damage and required repair and fitting in certain areas. The absence of a protective finish left the wood vulnerable to further deterioration, lacking the lustre that defines a well-maintained parquet floor.

The project initiated with meticulous repairs to the subfloor and the fitting of new parquet blocks where needed. To maintain the authenticity and character of the floor, reclaimed parquet blocks were carefully sourced and integrated.

Finding matching reclaimed blocks is one of the more time-consuming parts of parquet restoration. Modern parquet tends to be thinner and cut to slightly different dimensions than Victorian-era original blocks, so off-the-shelf new stock rarely matches well. Sourcing the right reclaimed material took some effort, but it was the only way to achieve a consistent result once sanding was complete.

Our Approach

Subfloor repairs came first. Where boards were soft, damaged, or had movement, we fixed them or replaced the affected sections before anything else. Attempting to lay parquet over a weak subfloor means the blocks will eventually lift or shift, which undoes all the work done above.

Damaged parquet blocks were lifted carefully and the old adhesive cleaned away. The reclaimed replacement blocks were checked for size consistency and trimmed where needed before being glued into place. We used a suitable parquet adhesive and allowed full cure time before any sanding began, which is essential: sanding over fresh adhesive causes the blocks to shift and the surface becomes uneven.

Once all repairs were complete and cured, gap filling was carried out across the whole floor. We used a flexible filler mixed with sanding dust to create a close colour match. This was forced into the joints with a float and allowed to harden.

The main sanding sequence followed: coarse grit to remove old finish and flatten the surface, medium to refine, fine to prepare for finishing. Parquet requires diagonal sanding passes to avoid tearing the cross-grain blocks, with detail sanding at the perimeter and corners. After final vacuuming and tacking, three coats of water-based lacquer were applied with sanding between coats.

The Result

The parquet floor has undergone a substantial transformation. Extensive subfloor and parquet repairs restored stability and structure, giving a solid base for the finishing work. Reclaimed parquet blocks were carefully chosen and fitted, blending with the existing floor to preserve its original character. Gap filling addressed the unevenness and produced a smooth, even surface with no visible gaps. The floor was then sanded to remove all surface damage, and the lacquer brought out the natural warmth and grain of the wood. The finish is durable and provides real protection against daily use.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why is reclaimed parquet used for repairs rather than new blocks?
Old parquet blocks are typically thicker and cut from denser, slower-grown timber than modern equivalents. They match existing floors better in terms of dimensions and grain character. Using new blocks alongside old ones usually produces a visible colour and thickness mismatch once sanded, which most clients want to avoid.

How is gap filling done on parquet floors?
For parquet, we typically use a two-part epoxy filler or a flexible product mixed with sanding dust. The filler is worked into the joints with a wide float, allowed to cure, and then removed from the surface in the sanding process. The result is gaps filled at depth but no filler residue left on the block faces.

What does parquet floor restoration cost in Twickenham?
Parquet sanding and lacquering in Twickenham typically costs between £30 and £50 per square metre, depending on the floor's condition, whether block replacement is needed, and the finish chosen. Projects with significant repair work, reclaimed block sourcing, and full subfloor remediation will sit at the higher end of that range.

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Project Overview

This Croydon project involved a full floor restoration combining sanding, staining, gap filling, and lacquer sealing. The client wanted to change the colour of the floorboards as well as restore their condition, so the project required careful planning around the staining process. The result was a floor that looked considerably different in colour from the original while still retaining the character and natural grain of the timber.

The Challenge

Before the floor restoration work began, a thorough inspection was carried out. The goal was to understand the extent of the damage and the best approach to address it. The floor sanding process began to remove years of wear and reveal the natural timber beneath. This process also helped eliminate the scratches and imperfections that had built up across the floor's surface.

Staining adds a layer of complexity to a floor restoration project. The stain must be applied to a perfectly sanded, clean surface with no residue from previous finishes. Any contamination in the surface, even minor traces of old wax or oil, will cause the stain to take unevenly and produce a patchy result. This means the sanding process has to be more thorough and the surface preparation more careful than for a straightforward re-lacquer job.

The boards also had a number of gaps that needed addressing before staining. Gap filling after staining is not practical because the filler colour would not match the stained floor. Everything had to be done in the right sequence.

Our Approach

The first phase was sanding. We used a drum sander with a coarse-to-medium sequence to strip the old finish fully and remove surface damage. Once the floor was clean timber throughout, we ran a fine grit pass to prepare the surface for staining. Thorough vacuuming and tacking followed, as any dust left on the surface will be sealed in by the stain and become visible.

Gap filling came next, before any stain was applied. We used a filler matched to the intended post-stain colour rather than the raw timber colour. This requires some experience: the filler needs to be slightly lighter than the final stained colour because the stain will darken it slightly when applied. We tested the stain on an offcut first to check the colour match before committing to the whole floor.

The stain was applied in sections using a wide brush and lint-free cloth, working with the grain and maintaining a wet edge to avoid lap marks. The stain was allowed to penetrate the timber, and the excess was wiped back before it dried. On a pale stain this can be done quickly, but on a darker tone careful timing is needed to prevent blotching.

Once the stain had dried fully, a high-quality lacquer was applied in three coats. Each coat was sanded lightly before the next to maintain adhesion and remove any dust nibs. The final coat was left to cure before the floor was returned to use.

The Result

Addressing the gaps between the floorboards produced a smooth and consistent surface. The staining added depth and richness to the wood while transforming the colour of the room considerably. The lacquer sealant provided a durable top coat that protects the floor from daily wear and is straightforward to keep clean. The client was pleased with the colour change and commented that the room felt much more updated once the floor was done. The floor now provides reliable protection against wear and requires only standard routine maintenance.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can any floorboard be stained, or does the species matter?
Most timber species accept stain, but they take it differently. Pine, which is common in older Croydon properties, is an uneven absorber: knots and grain variations take stain at different rates, which can produce a blotchy finish if preparation is not thorough. Hardwoods tend to take stain more consistently. Proper sanding and an even wood conditioner treatment before staining makes a significant difference on pine and softwood floors.

Do gaps need filling before or after staining?
Always before. If you stain first and fill after, the filler will sit on a stained surface and will not absorb the stain itself, so it will look noticeably lighter than the surrounding wood. Filling before staining means the filler gets coloured along with the timber, and the match is much closer. We colour-test the filler against the intended stain tone before committing to the whole floor.

What does floor sanding and staining cost in Croydon?
In Croydon and South London, floor sanding with staining and lacquer typically costs between £30 and £45 per square metre. Staining adds some cost over a straightforward reseal because it requires additional preparation time and more careful technique. Gap filling is usually included in the overall price rather than charged as a separate item.

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Project Overview

This job in Honor Oak Park involved a comprehensive restoration of original floorboards in a period property. The work covered repairing and refitting damaged boards, filling gaps with pine slivers, sanding the entire surface, and applying a satin sealant. Floor sanding in London typically costs between £25 and £45 per square metre, with gap filling adding to the price depending on the extent of the work.

The Challenge

The floor in this old and charming house showed visible signs of wear and tear, with creaky floorboards, gaps between them, and a lacklustre appearance. The homeowners decided it was time for a comprehensive floor renovation to bring back the original beauty of the space. The main issues included loose and damaged floorboards, significant gaps between the boards, and an uneven surface that needed attention. Some boards were beyond repair and required replacement to give the floor a stable, even foundation before any finishing work could begin.

Our Approach

We worked through the project in a clear sequence:

• Floor inspection: Our team carried out a full inspection, identifying damaged boards, areas requiring refitting, and the boards that needed outright replacement.
• Board repairs and replacements: Loose boards were secured and those beyond saving were replaced with matched timber to maintain a consistent appearance.
• Gap filling with pine slivers: We used high-quality pine slivers cut to match the floor's existing colour. Fitting these into the gaps between boards eliminates the unsightly openings and stops dirt and debris collecting over time.
• Sanding: Professional-grade belt and edge sanders were used to remove scratches, stains, and the old worn finish across the full floor area, leaving a clean, open surface ready for sealing.
• Sealant application: The homeowners chose a durable satin sealant. We applied it with care to ensure even coverage and a consistent finish.

The Result

The transformation of the floor was significant. The sealant gave the boards a satin finish that brought out the natural tones of the wood without looking too shiny. It also provides a protective layer against daily wear, keeping the floor in good condition for years to come. The combination of repairs, gap filling, sanding, and sealing produced a floor that looks as though it has been properly maintained from the beginning. The homeowners in Honor Oak Park were very pleased with how the space came together.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: What type of sealant is best for period floorboards?
A: For most period properties, a water-based satin lacquer or hardwax oil works well. Satin sheen looks natural and does not highlight imperfections the way a high-gloss finish can. We discuss options with clients before starting, as personal preference and how the room is used both affect the right choice.

Q: How long do pine sliver gap fills last?
A: Done correctly, pine sliver gap filling is a long-term solution. Unlike flexible fillers that can crack or shrink, pine slivers move with the floor. They are particularly suitable for older properties where boards have dried out and the gaps are consistent in width.

Q: How often does a sanded floor need to be refinished?
A: This depends on how the floor is used. In a busy family home, a re-coat every five to eight years is typical. A maintenance buff and re-oil or re-lacquer can often extend the life of the finish without needing a full sand.

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