All Projects Renovations Installations

Project Overview

This Fortis Green property had original hardwood floorboards that had sustained a fair amount of damage over the years, including several boards that were beyond simple restoration and needed replacing, along with significant gaps throughout, surface wear, and loss of finish. The project involved a combination of board replacement, gap filling, full sanding, and refinishing to bring the floor back to a consistent, well-finished standard.

The Challenge

Renovation and repair work on older floors is always more complex than a straightforward sand and finish because you are dealing with the floor's history rather than starting from a blank canvas. Matching replacement boards to the existing timber is one of the more difficult parts, as the original floorboards in older properties are often a specific width, species, or grade that does not correspond directly to anything currently available off the shelf. Getting a close enough match that the repaired sections are not immediately obvious after sanding is a key part of the craftwork on projects like this.

Our Approach

Assessment and Board Replacement

We started with a full inspection of every board to determine which ones could be restored through sanding and gap filling, and which were too damaged or structurally compromised to keep. The boards requiring replacement were carefully removed and new boards were sourced to match as closely as possible in species, width, and thickness. These were fitted and secured in place before any sanding began.

Gap Filling

Once all board replacements were complete, the gaps throughout the floor were filled with a resin and sawdust mixture. This was collected during the first sanding pass to ensure the colour of the fill matched the existing timber. All gaps were properly filled and left to cure before progressing to the finishing sanding stages.

Multi-Stage Sanding

The full floor was sanded in stages, working from coarser grits to progressively finer ones. The replacement boards were blended into the existing floor surface during this process, and by the time the final fine-grit pass was complete, the new and old boards read as a consistent, unified floor surface.

Refinishing

Two coats of a hard-wearing lacquer were applied to protect the floor and provide a consistent finish across the whole area. The finish was chosen to complement the natural colour of the timber and give a clean, durable surface for everyday use.

The Result

The renovation was successful in bringing a worn and damaged floor back into good condition. The replaced boards blend well with the original ones, the gaps are gone, and the finished surface looks consistent and well-protected. The client was pleased with both the end result and the way potential problems had been identified and dealt with at the start. Renovation and repair work in London is typically priced alongside standard sanding rates of £25 to £45 per square metre, with additional costs depending on the extent of board replacement required.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do you match replacement boards to an older floor?
We source materials from specialist timber suppliers who stock reclaimed and period-matched flooring. The match is rarely perfect until the floor has been sanded, at which point the age difference in the timber becomes much less noticeable. The grain and colour tend to blend well under a consistent finish.

Is it worth repairing an old floor rather than replacing it entirely?
In most cases, yes, particularly with older properties where the original boards have character that modern replacements cannot replicate. Repair and renovation is also significantly cheaper than full replacement. We always provide an honest assessment of whether renovation will achieve the result the client wants before any work begins.

How long does a floor renovation like this take?
A project combining board replacement, gap filling, and full sanding and finishing typically takes two to three days for a standard room, depending on the extent of repairs needed. We always give a realistic timeline after the initial assessment.

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Project Overview

This Slough property had hardwood floorboards throughout the ground floor that had been previously finished with an oil product. The oil had worn down significantly in the main traffic routes, leaving the floor looking dry and patchy, with the wood lacking the protection and appearance it had when newly finished. The client wanted a full sand, buff, and fresh oil application to restore the floor.

The Challenge

Re-oiling an oil-finished floor that has worn unevenly is more complex than it sounds. Simply applying fresh oil over a partially worn surface would result in patchy absorption, with the areas where the old oil has fully worn off absorbing far more product than the areas where some residual oil remains. This produces an uneven finish rather than the consistent result the client wants. The correct approach is to sand back to bare wood evenly first, then apply the new oil from a uniform starting point. For buffing, the floor also needs to be properly prepared so the buff can work the oil into the surface evenly without disturbing the finish before it has set.

Our Approach

Sanding

We began with a full sanding programme to strip the old oil finish back to bare wood consistently across the whole floor. This involved working through multiple grit stages, starting with a grit appropriate to the depth of the existing finish and finishing with a fine grit that left the surface clean, smooth, and ready for oiling.

Dust Removal

Before any oil was applied, the floor was vacuumed thoroughly and wiped down with a tack cloth to remove all residual sanding dust. Even small amounts of dust trapped in an oil finish will create a gritty texture in the cured surface and should not be cut short.

Oil Application and Buffing

The first coat of oil was applied across the full floor and left to absorb into the wood for the recommended time before the excess was buffed off using a buffing machine fitted with a white pad. The buffing process drives the oil deeper into the wood fibres and removes any standing excess that would otherwise dry tacky on the surface. A second coat was applied and buffed in the same way to achieve the depth of protection and sheen the client wanted.

The Result

The finished floor had a warm, natural appearance with an even, consistent oil finish throughout. The wood grain was clearly visible, the surface felt smooth underfoot, and the oil provided good protection without the plastic appearance of a lacquer finish. The client was very satisfied with the result and appreciated the natural feel of the oil compared to the alternative finishes available. Sanding and oiling in the Slough area typically costs between £25 and £40 per square metre depending on floor condition and area size.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do you maintain an oiled floor after it has been professionally re-oiled?
Day-to-day cleaning with a slightly damp mop and a wood-safe cleaning product is all that is needed. Periodically, typically every one to two years, a maintenance oil coat can be applied without a full sand. This is a quick process the homeowner can often do themselves with the right product.

Is an oil finish or a lacquer finish better for hardwood floorboards?
Both are widely used and both have their strengths. Lacquer gives a harder, more protective surface that is easier to clean in high-traffic areas. Oil gives a more natural look and feel, is easier to touch up in a localised area, and tends to suit the character of older properties better. The best choice depends on the level of traffic, the look the client wants, and how much ongoing maintenance they are willing to do.

Can you oil over an existing lacquered floor?
No. Oil and lacquer are not compatible. If a floor has been lacquered, the lacquer must be fully removed by sanding before an oil finish can be applied. Applying oil over a lacquer finish will not penetrate the wood and will not produce a satisfactory result.

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Project Overview

This Tadworth project combined engineered wood floor installation with sanding and finishing of the laid boards. The client was fitting a new unfinished engineered oak floor and wanted the sanding and finishing done on site after installation to achieve a consistent factory-flat result and their preferred finish specification. Installing unfinished engineered boards and sanding on site gives a higher quality finish than pre-finished boards, particularly at the board joints, and allows full control over the final colour and sheen level.

The Challenge

Installing unfinished engineered boards and then sanding on site requires careful sequencing. The boards must be fully fixed and the adhesive fully cured before any sanding machine is brought across the floor. Sanding too early can loosen boards or create movement at the joints. The other challenge is achieving a truly flat sanded result on a newly installed floor, where the boards may have slight height variation between individual planks. The sanding programme needs to address this levelling as well as producing the fine surface needed for finishing.

Our Approach

Subfloor Preparation and Board Installation

The subfloor was checked and prepared to the level of flatness required for a glued installation. The unfinished engineered boards were bonded down using a flexible wood floor adhesive and the full installation was completed before the floor was left to cure. No sanding or foot traffic was allowed on the new floor until the adhesive had fully set.

Levelling Sand

Once cured, we carried out an initial levelling sand to remove any height differences between adjacent boards and to open the grain of the wood consistently across the full floor. This pass uses a coarser grit than subsequent passes and focuses on getting the surface as flat as possible before moving to the finishing stages.

Finishing Sanding Passes

After the levelling pass, we worked through progressively finer grits to bring the surface to a smooth, consistent condition across the whole floor. Edge sanding was carried out alongside the main floor work to keep the full area progressing at the same pace.

Finish Application

The client had chosen a natural hardwax oil finish, which was applied in two coats with buffing between each. Hardwax oil gives a natural, open appearance to the wood and is a popular choice for newly installed floors where the client wants the wood to look and feel as close to its natural state as possible.

The Result

The finished floor was smooth and consistent throughout, with the hardwax oil finish giving the oak a warm, natural appearance. The joints between boards were flush and clean, which is the key benefit of sanding on site after installation. The client was very pleased with the result. For supply, fit, sand, and finish of an engineered floor in Surrey and the surrounding area, expect to budget from around £45 to £70 per square metre depending on the board specification and finish chosen.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the advantage of installing unfinished engineered boards and sanding on site?
The main advantage is the finish quality at the board joints. Pre-finished boards have a small bevel at each edge, which creates a visible groove at every joint in the finished floor. On a site-sanded floor, the joints sand flat and the finish goes across them uniformly, giving a much cleaner overall appearance. It also allows full control over the colour, sheen level, and finish product used.

What is hardwax oil and how does it differ from lacquer?
Hardwax oil is a penetrating finish made from natural oils and waxes that soaks into the wood rather than forming a film on the surface. It gives the floor a more natural, matte appearance and a tactile feel that many clients prefer. It is easier to touch up in small areas if damage occurs. Lacquer sits on top of the wood as a protective film, giving a harder surface and a slightly more reflective finish. Both are durable and widely used.

Can an engineered floor installed with adhesive ever be lifted and reused?
This is difficult in practice. Glued-down boards are bonded firmly to the subfloor and removal typically damages both the boards and the subfloor surface. If future flexibility is important, a floating installation is a better choice. Glue-down is generally recommended when the best underfoot performance and stability are the priority.

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Project Overview

This parquet floor sanding and renovation project took place in a period property in Esher, Surrey. The floor had not been touched for well over a decade and was showing the wear that comes with years of daily use: a dull, scratched surface, gaps between blocks, and a finish that had broken down in heavy-traffic areas. The client wanted the floor restored to its original character without replacement. Parquet sanding typically costs between £70 and £100 per square metre when combined with gap filling and a full lacquer finish, and this project fell comfortably within that range.

The Challenge

Parquet floors cannot be sanded the same way as a standard plank floor. Each block runs at a different angle to its neighbour, depending on the pattern, so sanding straight along one axis risks tearing grain and leaving cross-grain scratches that are very difficult to remove. This floor had a traditional herringbone layout, which demands diagonal sanding passes and careful edging to avoid creating flat spots or rounding the block corners. On top of that, several blocks were loose and a handful had lifted slightly, which had to be sorted before any machine could go near the surface. The gaps between blocks were also uneven, making a uniform fill harder to achieve.

Our Approach

1. Inspection and repair: We walked the entire floor, pressing each block to check adhesion, re-gluing loose ones and replacing two that had cracked beyond use with matching stock. All nails were punched below the surface.
2. Gap filling: We mixed fine wood dust from the initial sanding passes with a two-part resin filler and pressed it into every gap. This approach produces a fill that is colour-matched to the actual wood rather than a generic filler tone.
3. Coarse sanding: Using a drum sander with a medium-grit belt, we worked across the herringbone at 45 degrees in two opposing diagonal directions to flatten the surface evenly and remove the old finish without attacking any single block grain.
4. Intermediate and fine sanding: We followed up with finer grits, progressively smoothing the surface, then used an edge sander in the corners and a detail tool around the door architraves.
5. Buffing: A rotary buffer with a fine pad brought the surface to a consistent, smooth finish ready for coating.
6. Lacquering: Three coats of a hard-wearing water-based lacquer were applied, with a light buff between coats. The gloss finish brought out the warm tones of the oak blocks and gave the pattern strong visual definition.

The Result

The transformation was dramatic. The old, dull surface gave way to a floor with real depth and warmth, the herringbone pattern standing out clearly under the fresh lacquer. The gaps are gone, the surface is smooth and even, and the repaired blocks are indistinguishable from the originals. The client now has a floor that will comfortably last another 20 to 30 years before it needs professional attention again, provided it receives the occasional re-coat when the finish starts to show wear.

Frequently Asked Questions

How often does a parquet floor need to be professionally sanded?

A solid parquet floor can typically be sanded four to six times over its lifetime. In a family home with moderate traffic, full sanding is usually needed every 15 to 25 years. Re-coating the finish every five to ten years extends the time between full sanding jobs considerably.

Can you sand a parquet floor that has loose blocks?

Loose blocks must be fixed before sanding begins. Running a drum sander over a loose block can flip it, damage adjacent blocks, or damage the machine. Re-gluing is a straightforward job and adds very little to the overall project cost.

What finish is best for a herringbone parquet floor?

Lacquer is the most popular choice because it sits on top of the wood and provides a hard, protective layer that is easy to clean. Oil finishes are an alternative for those who prefer a more natural look, though they require more regular maintenance. For a high-use reception room or hallway, lacquer is usually the more practical option.

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Project Overview

This project in Winchmore Hill, North London, combined parquet floor repair, gap filling, sanding, and lacquering to bring an ageing floor back to a high standard. The property was a traditional semi-detached house with a herringbone parquet floor covering the hallway and reception room. Over the years, moisture fluctuations had caused a number of blocks to lift and some to develop splits, while gaps between blocks had grown wide enough to trap dirt. Rather than replacing the floor entirely, the client chose a full restoration, which is considerably more cost-effective and preserves the original character of the floor.

The Challenge

The main complication here was the extent of the block damage. Several blocks were not just loose but had split along the grain, meaning they needed to be removed and replaced rather than simply re-glued. Finding matching replacement stock that would blend with the original aged oak was important, as poorly matched replacements can make a repaired floor look patchy. The floor also had a wide variation in gap size, with some sections being tight and others having gaps of two or three millimetres, requiring careful filler work to achieve a consistent result across the whole surface.

Our Approach

1. Damage assessment: We mapped the floor systematically, marking every loose, cracked, or damaged block for attention before any sanding equipment was brought in.
2. Block replacement: Damaged blocks were carefully removed to avoid disturbing the surrounding ones. Replacement blocks in matching oak were glued and clamped in position, allowed to cure fully overnight.
3. Re-gluing loose blocks: Undamaged blocks that had lifted were cleaned of old adhesive residue, re-glued with a flexible wood adhesive, and weighted down until set.
4. Gap filling: We mixed a two-part resin with sanding dust to produce a filler matching the floor's natural colour, packed this into every gap, and allowed it to fully harden before sanding commenced.
5. Sanding: The surface was sanded in the correct diagonal sequence for herringbone parquet, moving through coarse, medium, and fine grits to achieve a flat, smooth result. Edge sanding was completed by hand in tight corners.
6. Lacquering: Two base coats followed by a top coat of hard-wearing gloss lacquer finished the job. Each coat was lightly abraded between applications for good adhesion.

The Result

The finished floor looked consistent and clean, with no visible trace of the repaired sections. The gaps were gone, the surface was smooth, and the lacquer brought a warm sheen to the oak that the client had not seen since the floor was first installed. At around £70 to £100 per square metre for a full parquet restoration of this scope, the cost is significantly below that of a replacement floor, and the result is arguably better because the original wood carries character that new boards simply cannot replicate.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do you match replacement parquet blocks to the existing floor?

We source replacement blocks in the same species and, where possible, the same cut as the original. Once sanded and finished together, the natural wood tones blend well. In very old floors with heavily aged wood, a slight variation in tone can remain, but this is generally barely noticeable once the finish is applied across the whole surface.

Is gap filling in parquet floors a permanent fix?

A resin and dust filler in well-maintained conditions will last many years. Wood does expand and contract with seasonal humidity changes, so some hairline movement at the filler edges is normal. Keeping indoor humidity reasonably stable, ideally between 45 and 65 per cent, reduces this movement and extends the life of the fill.

Can all parquet floors be repaired rather than replaced?

Most can, provided the subfloor is sound and the boards have enough thickness remaining for sanding. Very thin parquet tiles or floors that have been sanded down close to their limit may not be suitable for further sanding. We assess this during a free pre-visit inspection before quoting.

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Project Overview

This engineered wood floor sanding and oiling project was completed at a residential property in Homerton, East London. The floor, installed around seven years before we were called in, was looking tired. The original oil finish had worn through in the main traffic lanes, leaving dry, unprotected wood exposed while the rest of the surface retained a patchy sheen. The client wanted a consistent, refreshed finish without a heavy lacquer look, so we agreed that a light surface sand followed by a quality oil re-coat was the right approach. Engineered floor sanding typically runs between £25 and £45 per square metre, depending on the level of work required.

The Challenge

The main thing to understand with engineered wood is that the real wood veneer on top is thinner than in solid boards, typically between three and six millimetres. This means there is a limited number of times the floor can be sanded before the veneer is too thin to work with safely. In this case, the floor had not been professionally sanded before, so we had good material to work with, but we still needed to be conservative with the depth of cut. A standard drum sander set too aggressively could remove more wood than necessary or, worse, break through the veneer into the plywood core below. The other challenge was the existing oil finish, which needed to be fully stripped to allow the new oil to penetrate the wood properly.

Our Approach

1. Surface assessment: We measured the veneer thickness in a discreet corner to confirm adequate depth for sanding, then identified the worst-worn areas and checked for any cupped or warped boards.
2. Light surface sanding: Using a buffing machine rather than a drum sander, we worked across the floor with a medium-grit abrasive pad to strip the old oil finish and smooth the surface. This technique removes far less material than a full drum sand while still achieving a clean base for re-oiling.
3. Edge work: The perimeter was carefully sanded by hand with a detail sander to match the centre of the room without marking the skirting boards.
4. Fine buffing: A finer abrasive pad completed the prep work, leaving the surface clean, open-grained, and ready for oil penetration.
5. First oil coat: We applied a generous first coat of a high-quality hardwax oil, working it into the grain with a cloth applicator and allowing it to penetrate before removing any excess. This coat nourishes the wood and begins building protection.
6. Second oil coat: After the first coat had cured overnight, we applied a second, thinner coat and buffed it to an even sheen. The finish is now consistent across the entire floor, with no more patchy worn areas.

The Result

The floor looked completely different after treatment. The patchy, worn surface was replaced by a consistent, natural-looking finish that brought out the grain of the wood without making it look plastic or overly shiny. The oil soaks into the wood rather than sitting on top, which means it feels more natural underfoot and is far easier to spot-repair in future if a section gets damaged. The client was pleased with how much the floor had improved without the cost or disruption of replacement.

Frequently Asked Questions

How many times can an engineered wood floor be sanded?

This depends on the thickness of the real wood veneer. A three-millimetre veneer can typically be lightly sanded once or twice. A six-millimetre veneer allows two or three full sands over the floor's lifetime. We always check the veneer depth before quoting to confirm sanding is viable.

What is the difference between an oil finish and a lacquer on engineered wood?

Oil penetrates the wood fibres and provides a natural look and feel. It is relatively easy to maintain, as you can re-oil specific areas without sanding the entire floor. Lacquer sits on the surface as a hard film, offering stronger protection in very high-traffic areas but requiring a full sand and re-coat when it wears through.

How long after oiling before the floor can be used?

With a hardwax oil, light foot traffic is usually fine after 24 hours. Full hardness and maximum protection develop over seven to ten days. We advise clients to avoid dragging heavy furniture across the floor for at least a week after treatment.

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Project Overview

This parquet floor sanding and refinishing project was carried out at a family home in West Ealing, West London. The property had a beautiful original herringbone parquet in the hallway, front reception room, and on the staircase. The floors had not been professionally treated in many years and were in need of a full sand and refinish. The client was also keen to have the staircase brought up to the same standard as the floors to create a consistent look throughout the ground floor. Parquet sanding with a lacquer finish typically falls in the £70 to £100 per square metre range, which is well justified given the result.

The Challenge

The biggest technical challenge with this project was the volume and variety of surfaces involved. Sanding a herringbone parquet floor demands a very different technique from sanding a straight-run timber floor. The blocks are laid at 45-degree angles to each other, so you cannot sand straight along the room. Any drum sanding has to be done on the diagonal to avoid cross-grain scratching. On the staircase, working with an industrial sander is not possible, so each tread had to be sanded by hand or with a detail sander, requiring considerably more time and care. The treads also had nosing edges that needed to be rounded and smoothed without creating flat spots.

Our Approach

1. Floor inspection: We checked every block across the main rooms for security, re-gluing and nailing down any that had come loose before sanding began.
2. Coarse diagonal sanding: The drum sander was run at 45 degrees to the herringbone grain in two opposing directions to strip the old finish and level the surface evenly without risking cross-grain damage.
3. Intermediate sanding: A second pass with a medium-grit belt smoothed the marks left by the coarse cut and began preparing the surface for finishing.
4. Fine sanding and edging: Fine-grit passes completed the main surface work. The edge sander was used along the walls and in doorway alcoves where the drum cannot reach.
5. Staircase work: Each tread was sanded by hand using a combination of orbital and detail sanders, working with the grain to avoid scratching the surface. The nosings were carefully shaped to remove any sharp edges while maintaining their profile.
6. Lacquering: Three coats of gloss lacquer were applied to both the floor and the staircase treads, with a fine buff between each coat. The consistent finish across both surfaces ties the whole area together visually.

The Result

The transformation across both the rooms and the staircase was significant. The flat, worn surface of the parquet was replaced by a bright, glossy finish that gives full definition to the herringbone pattern. The staircase now matches the floors exactly, which makes the whole entrance area feel considered and well-finished. The client described it as looking better than when the house was originally fitted out. With proper care and an occasional re-coat when the finish shows wear, this floor should last another 20 years before needing professional attention again.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can a parquet floor and staircase be sanded to match?

Yes, provided both are made from a compatible wood species and the finish used is the same. Getting the exact colour and sheen level to match across both surfaces requires care and consistency in the finishing process, but it is absolutely achievable and makes a real difference to the overall look of the space.

How long does it take to sand and refinish a parquet floor?

A typical room takes one to two days for sanding and preparation, plus the time needed for each lacquer coat to dry between applications. A standard three-coat lacquer process generally takes three to four days in total, including curing time between coats. Larger areas or those combined with staircase work take longer.

Is gloss lacquer the best finish for parquet?

Gloss lacquer is very popular for parquet because it emphasises the pattern clearly and is practical and easy to clean. Satin or matt lacquer is an option for those who prefer a softer appearance. Oil finishes work well too, though they require more regular re-treatment than lacquer. The choice depends on your lifestyle and personal preference.

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Project Overview

This hardwood floor sanding, gap filling, and lacquering project was completed at a Victorian terraced property in Islington, North London. The original pine floorboards were in poor condition: the lacquer had worn through in the main traffic routes, the surface was scratched and stained, and the gaps between boards had grown wide enough to cause draughts and let dust collect. The client wanted the floor restored to a smart, practical condition that would work well for a busy family home. Hardwood floor sanding in London typically runs between £25 and £45 per square metre, inclusive of gap filling and a standard lacquer finish.

The Challenge

Older Victorian pine boards can be tricky to work with. The boards in this property were around 19 millimetres thick and had clearly been sanded at least once before, leaving less material to work with than a virgin floor. Some boards also had significant gaps, not just the standard seasonal movement gaps but wider ones caused by boards shrinking as the central heating dried the timber out over decades. The gap filling needed to be done properly, with a flexible material that would move slightly with the wood rather than cracking out within a couple of years. The surface also had a few deep scratches and dark staining around one area that would need extra passes to remove fully.

Our Approach

1. Preparation: We punched all nail heads below the surface to protect the sanding belts, then swept and vacuumed the floor thoroughly before starting.
2. Coarse sanding: An initial pass with a coarse belt on the drum sander removed the bulk of the old finish and surface imperfections, including most of the staining.
3. Gap filling: Once the first sanding pass was complete and sawdust was available, we mixed dust with a flexible resin binder and worked the filler into every gap. This ensures the fill is colour-matched to the actual floor and provides some flexibility to accommodate seasonal wood movement.
4. Medium and fine sanding: After the filler had cured, we completed medium and fine sanding passes across the whole floor, including a careful edge-sanding run along the skirting boards.
5. Buffing: A buffing machine with a fine pad completed the surface preparation, leaving the wood clean, smooth, and open-pored for the lacquer.
6. Three-coat lacquering: We applied three coats of a hard-wearing water-based lacquer in a satin finish, lightly abrading between coats to ensure good adhesion and a consistent sheen level throughout.

The Result

The floor went from looking tired and patchy to genuinely smart. The gaps were filled, the staining was gone, and the satin lacquer gave the old pine a warm, natural appearance that suited the period character of the house. The client was particularly pleased with the gap filling, which had stopped the draught that had been coming through the floor in winter. A well-maintained lacquer finish on pine can last eight to fifteen years before it needs refreshing, and the floor will be far easier to clean and keep looking good in the meantime.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is gap filling always necessary when sanding a hardwood floor?

It depends on the size and number of the gaps. Small seasonal movement gaps of one to two millimetres are normal and do not necessarily need filling. Larger gaps that collect dirt, cause draughts, or create a spongy feel underfoot benefit significantly from being filled. We assess this during the initial inspection and advise accordingly.

What causes the gaps between floorboards to get wider over time?

The most common cause is low humidity, usually from central heating drying out the air during winter. Wood is hygroscopic and will shrink when it loses moisture. Improving indoor humidity levels, ideally keeping relative humidity between 45 and 65 per cent, helps reduce this effect.

How long will a lacquered pine floor last before it needs re-sanding?

A pine floor with a good lacquer finish and normal domestic traffic can go ten to twenty years between full sanding jobs. In high-traffic areas such as hallways, the finish will wear first, and a maintenance coat applied before it wears through completely can extend the time between full sanding jobs considerably.

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Project Overview

This hardwood floor sanding, repair, and re-oiling project was completed at a terraced property in Leytonstone, East London. The client had lived in the house for several years and the floor, a solid oak strip floor, had accumulated damage in several areas: a few boards had split along the grain, one had a deep gouge from furniture removal, and the oil finish throughout had become dry and patchy. Rather than replacing the entire floor, we carried out targeted board replacement in the worst-affected areas and then sanded and re-oiled the whole floor to bring everything back to a consistent, good condition. Spot repair plus sanding on a hardwood floor of this type typically costs in the range of £25 to £45 per square metre for the sanding element, with board replacement priced per board.

The Challenge

The key challenge in any spot repair project is making the new boards blend with the old ones. Fresh oak boards will always be paler and brighter than boards that have aged over years in a finished room. The fit-and-forget approach of simply swapping damaged boards and sanding straight over them often leaves the repair area looking obvious for some time. Getting a good colour match requires careful selection of replacement stock, appropriate staining or tinting of the oil finish, and thorough sanding across the whole floor rather than just the repaired patches. The client also wanted the floor to look as natural as possible after the work was done, which meant avoiding a heavy lacquer finish in favour of an oil that would blend the old and new wood tones naturally.

Our Approach

1. Board assessment: We walked the floor and identified each board that needed replacing. In total, five boards were beyond economical repair and were marked for removal.
2. Board removal: The damaged boards were carefully cut out using a circular saw set to the exact board thickness, then removed without disturbing the neighbouring boards.
3. New board fitting: Replacement oak boards selected to match the existing profile were glued and secret-nailed into place, then left to cure before sanding began.
4. Full floor sanding: The entire floor was sanded in sequence: coarse pass to strip the old finish and flatten the surface, medium pass to remove the scratch marks, fine pass to prepare for the oil finish. Sanding all the old and new boards together at this stage is what allows the final finish to read as one uniform surface.
5. Oil application: We applied a hardwax oil tinted slightly amber to help the new boards blend with the aged tone of the original floor. Two coats were applied with a buffing pass between them.
6. Final buff: A final light buff brought the oil to an even sheen across the whole floor.

The Result

The repaired sections blended well with the rest of the floor. The slight tint in the oil helped to even out the colour difference between old and new boards, and within a few months of normal use the whole floor looked consistent. The client was pleased not just with the visual result but also with the cost saving compared to a full replacement, which would have been three to four times the price. The oil finish gives the floor a natural, matt look that suits the character of the house and is easy to maintain with occasional re-oiling of any areas that start to look dry.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do you match replacement floorboards to the existing ones?

We try to source replacement boards in the same wood species, width, and thickness as the originals. Exact matches are not always possible, particularly for older or non-standard boards, but working with the same species and then finishing old and new together minimises the visible difference. Tinted oils or stains can further close the gap in colour.

Is an oil finish as hardwearing as lacquer?

Oil finishes are less resistant to surface scratching than lacquer, but they are much easier to maintain. Scratches in an oiled floor tend to blend in naturally, whereas lacquer scratches show clearly as white marks. Worn areas in an oiled floor can be re-oiled without sanding the whole floor, which makes maintenance straightforward and low-cost.

How often does an oiled hardwood floor need maintenance?

In a normal domestic setting, a full re-oiling is typically needed every three to five years. Between re-oiling, using a suitable wood floor cleaner and a maintenance oil product on heavy-wear areas every few months will extend the time between full treatments considerably.

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Project Overview

This parquet floor restoration and repair project was carried out at the offices of VOGUE Magazine in Central London. The work focused on the corridor leading to the Board Meeting Room, a high-profile area that sees regular use by staff, visitors, and senior management. The parquet floor in this section had developed gaps between the blocks, the surface finish had dulled and worn, and in a few areas the blocks had begun to lift slightly. Given the setting, the work had to be done to an exceptional standard and with minimal disruption to office operations. Commercial parquet restoration in Central London falls broadly in the £70 to £100 per square metre range, though scope variations affect the final cost.

The Challenge

Working in an occupied commercial environment brings constraints that do not apply in domestic settings. The work had to be scheduled to avoid disrupting key meetings and office hours, which meant phased working and strict dust control were essential. Parquet floor sanding produces fine dust that can travel considerable distances in an air-conditioned office if not contained properly. In addition, the corridor was narrow, which limited the size of equipment that could be used, and any marks or scuffs to the freshly painted walls would have been unacceptable. The floor's herringbone pattern also demanded diagonal sanding technique, as always with parquet, requiring experience and care to avoid any cross-grain damage.

Our Approach

1. Condition inspection: We carried out a thorough assessment of the corridor floor, noting every loose block, every gap wider than one millimetre, and every section of worn finish before agreeing on the scope of work with the facilities team.
2. Block re-gluing and replacement: Loose blocks were individually lifted, cleaned, re-glued, and pressed back into position. A small number beyond repair were replaced with matching oak stock.
3. Gap filling: All significant gaps were filled using a resin and wood-dust mixture matched to the floor's existing colour, producing a natural-looking result rather than a contrasting filler line.
4. Dust containment: Before sanding began, we sealed the corridor with polythene sheeting at both ends and covered all ventilation grilles. A dust extraction system was connected directly to the sanding machine to keep airborne particles to a minimum.
5. Sanding: The floor was sanded diagonally through three grit stages using equipment sized to fit the corridor width. Edge sanding was completed carefully to avoid marking the walls or skirting.
6. Finishing: Two coats of a hard-wearing commercial-grade lacquer were applied, chosen for its quick drying time to minimise disruption. The finish was buffed between coats for a consistently smooth result.

The Result

The corridor floor looked considerably better after treatment. The gaps were filled, the surface finish was even and clean, and the overall appearance of the space was noticeably improved. The work was completed within the agreed schedule without disruption to the building's operations. Maintaining parquet floors in commercial settings to a high standard requires periodic professional attention, and this project is a good example of how a targeted restoration can significantly extend a floor's useful life without the cost and disruption of replacement.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can parquet floor sanding be done in an occupied commercial building?

Yes, with the right preparation. Dust containment is the main concern. We use direct-extraction sanding equipment and seal off the work area to prevent dust spreading into adjacent offices. Work is typically scheduled outside core business hours or in phases to keep disruption to a minimum.

How often does a commercial parquet floor need professional maintenance?

In a high-traffic commercial corridor, the finish will wear faster than in a domestic setting. A maintenance coat applied every two to three years can extend the time between full sanding and refinishing jobs. Full sanding and refinishing on a well-maintained commercial floor is typically needed every eight to fifteen years.

What type of finish is best for a high-traffic commercial parquet floor?

A commercial-grade lacquer with a hard surface film is generally the most practical choice for high-traffic areas. It provides strong scratch and wear resistance, is easy to clean, and is available in a range of sheen levels from matt to high gloss. Oil finishes, while beautiful, require more frequent maintenance and are less suited to very high-traffic commercial use.

Have a similar project? Call us on 020 88309782 or Book a Free Site Visit