DIY Floor Sanding Tips: How to Get It Right (and When to Call the Pros)

Sanding a wooden floor often looks easy at first glance — after all, how hard can it be to run a machine back and forth? The truth is, just like cooking a steak medium-rare or cutting your own hair, it’s simple in theory but rarely ends well without practice. Successful floor restoration is less about brute force and more about patience, skill, and knowing the limits of your abilities.

Yes, anyone can technically rent a sanding machine and start pushing it across the boards. But here’s where things get tricky — what machine do you use? Which abrasives and grit sequence are right? Does the type of wood floor change the process? And most importantly, what can go wrong if you don’t know the answers? These are the questions we’ll tackle in this guide, so you’re better prepared before you let the sawdust fly.

Hiring Sanding Machines

Before you rush to the nearest hire shop, here’s a reality check: sanding machine rental companies don’t actually make their money from the hire fee. The machines themselves are costly, wear out quickly, and often come back looking like they’ve been in a boxing match with an amateur DIYer. The real profit comes from selling you abrasives — and trust us, you’ll need plenty. So if the rental price seems like a bargain, don’t be fooled, the add-ons will quickly catch up.

The main tool you’ll need is a 200 mm belt sander, ideally from a trusted brand like Lagler or Bona. This workhorse will handle most of the heavy lifting. For the tricky edges and corners, you’ll also need an edge sander (178 mm). Models such as Bona Edge or Lagler Unico are reliable choices.

Once the floor is sanded, it’s not quite time to celebrate yet. You’ll still need to buff the surface to achieve that professional finish. High-end machines like the Lagler Trio or Bona FlexiSand make the job quicker and the results flawless. On a tighter budget? Smaller buffers such as the Bona Buffer or Lagler Single can do the job, but be extra careful to blend the areas where the belt sander meets the edge sander. If you’re skipping the premium buffing machines, a random orbital sander (Festool or Bosch are excellent options) is your next best bet.

And let’s not forget the dust extractor — unless you want your DIY project to double as a snowstorm. Brands like Fein and Festool are safe choices. As for the optional delta sander, you can hire one if you want to be extra thorough, but in most cases, a bit of elbow grease with a sanding block and abrasive paper will achieve the same result.

Sanding a Wooden Floor

When it comes to wood floor sanding, a few simple rules can make the difference between a flawless finish and a floor that looks like it lost a fight with your DIY enthusiasm. If you’re hiring equipment for the job, pay close attention to the results as soon as you start. A good sanding belt should leave a smooth surface after just a few passes. If it doesn’t, stop and call the hire company for advice — don’t just keep going and hope for the best.

• Prepare the space first: Make sure the entire area is clean and ready before starting the sanding.
• Check your equipment: Ensure the machines are in good working condition, you know how to use them, and your electrical supply can handle the load.
• Pick the right grit: Always estimate your starting grit. For a floor in decent shape, start at 40 grit instead of the very coarse 24 grit.
• Work step by step: Each sanding stage should remove the marks left by the previous grit before moving on.
• Direction matters: Sand forward, not backward, and move from left to right.
• Follow the grain: Always sand in line with the wood grain to avoid scratches and uneven surfaces.

Pro tip: If the sanding belt isn’t cutting efficiently, don’t force the machine. Swap the abrasive or check for other issues. Forcing the sander is a fast track to damaging both the machine and your floor — and rental companies don’t exactly send thank-you cards for broken equipment.

What Happens After Sanding?

Sanding is only the first half of the journey. Once the surface is smooth, you’ll need to choose how to protect and enhance your floor. Options include wood floor staining to change the colour, followed by sealing with lacquer, oil, or hardwax. This step is crucial, as it not only gives your floor its final look but also protects it from daily wear and tear. Skipping the finish is like baking a cake and forgetting the icing — technically edible, but far from complete.

DIY vs Professional Floor Sanding

While DIY sanding can save money, it’s not always the best option. Professional sanding services come with high-grade machines, years of experience, and the peace of mind that your floor won’t end up looking like a patchwork quilt. If your floor is heavily damaged, if you’re working with delicate parquet, or if you simply don’t want to risk costly mistakes, calling in the experts is often the smartest move.

Our team at FlooringFirst! offers professional wood floor restoration in London, with over 20 years of experience. We’ll handle everything from sanding to finishing, so you can sit back and enjoy the transformation.

FAQ: Floor Sanding

• Can I sand engineered wood floors? Yes, but only if the top veneer is thick enough — usually 3 mm or more. Thin veneers risk being sanded through.
• How long does floor sanding take? A standard room can take 1–2 days, depending on the condition of the floor and the chosen finish.
• Is floor sanding very dusty? Modern sanding machines come with dust extraction, so while there will always be some dust, it’s far less than most people expect.
• What finish should I choose? Lacquer offers durability and shine, oils give a natural look, and hardwax oils combine both worlds. The choice depends on lifestyle and style preference.