All Projects Renovations Installations

Project Overview

This parquet floor fitting project was completed at a Victorian terrace in Peckham, South East London. The client had recently renovated the ground floor of the property and wanted a parquet floor to run through the hallway and front reception room. A traditional herringbone pattern in solid oak was chosen to suit the period character of the house. Parquet fitting is a skilled job that takes considerably longer than fitting straight-run boards, which is reflected in the price. For a professionally fitted, sanded, and finished solid parquet floor in London, clients should budget in the region of £70 to £100 per square metre, depending on the pattern chosen and the complexity of the layout.

The Challenge

The main technical challenge on this project was the subfloor condition. The hallway had a suspended timber subfloor that had a slight spring to it, while the front room sat on a solid concrete base. Fitting parquet across two different subfloor types requires a consistent base level between them, which meant the junction between the hallway and the reception room needed careful attention. Any height difference would have been immediately visible as a step in the finished floor. The hallway joists also needed reinforcing in one section where they had dropped slightly, creating a low spot that would have produced a hollow sound underfoot had it been left.

Our Approach

1. Subfloor assessment: We checked the level across both rooms and at the junction, measured the deflection in the timber subfloor, and identified the section with the dropped joist.
2. Joist repair: A new noggin was fitted between the affected joists to restore support and eliminate the movement. The chipboard deck was re-screwed at closer centres to reduce flex to an acceptable level.
3. Level transition: The concrete in the front room was slightly higher than the finished timber deck height. We used a thin ply packing layer on the timber side to bring both surfaces to exactly the same level at the junction.
4. Pattern layout: Before any blocks were glued, we dry-laid the herringbone pattern across both rooms to confirm the alignment and ensure the pattern met correctly at the doorway between the two spaces.
5. Block fitting: The parquet blocks were glued down with a flexible wood adhesive, starting from the centreline of the doorway and working outwards. Each block was pressed firmly and checked for level as it went down.
6. Sanding and finishing: Once the adhesive had fully cured over 48 hours, the floor was sanded diagonally in two directions through three grit stages, then finished with three coats of a satin lacquer.

The Result

The finished floor ran through both rooms with a consistent, tight herringbone pattern and no visible transition at the junction between the two subfloor types. The satin lacquer gave the oak a warm, slightly understated finish that suited the renovation style. The client commented that the floor was the centrepiece of the whole ground-floor renovation. Parquet fitted over a correctly prepared subfloor and finished with a quality lacquer will look good for decades and can be re-sanded and refinished when it eventually shows wear.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does it take to fit a parquet floor?

The fitting stage for a single room of average size typically takes one to two days, depending on the pattern complexity and the number of cuts required. Subfloor preparation adds time, as does the 48-hour adhesive cure period before sanding can begin. A complete parquet project from start to finish, including fitting, sanding, and three-coat lacquering, generally takes five to seven working days.

Can parquet be fitted over a suspended timber floor?

Yes, provided the timber floor is structurally sound and has minimal deflection. A suspended floor that flexes significantly underfoot is not a good base for glued parquet, as the movement can break the adhesive bond over time. Reinforcing the subfloor before fitting is a worthwhile investment that prevents problems later.

What is the best pattern for a small hallway?

Herringbone is the most popular choice for hallways because the diagonal lines draw the eye down the length of the space, making it feel longer. A straight-run or square-set parquet pattern can work well in wider hallways or where a simpler look is preferred. The scale of the block also matters: smaller blocks suit narrower hallways better than larger ones.

Project Overview

This parquet floor fitting project was completed at a large family home in Blackheath, South East London. The client wanted a solid parquet floor fitted in the ground-floor hallway and through into the main reception room. The property was a detached Victorian house with character features throughout, and the new parquet floor was intended to complement the period feel of the space. A traditional herringbone pattern in solid oak was chosen. The project scope included full subfloor preparation, moisture protection, fitting, sanding, and a final lacquer finish. Parquet fitting with a complete finish in London falls in the £70 to £100 per square metre range.

The Challenge

The ground floor of this property was at or close to ground level in parts, which meant moisture was a concern. A damp meter check of the subfloor confirmed readings above the safe threshold for solid wood installation without additional protection. Fitting a solid parquet floor directly onto a damp subfloor without a moisture barrier risks the blocks absorbing moisture, swelling, and lifting within a few years. This had to be dealt with properly before any timber went down. The hallway also had a slightly uneven concrete base where a previous installation had been removed, leaving patches of adhesive residue and some localised surface damage that needed remediation.

Our Approach

1. Subfloor preparation: The concrete subfloor was thoroughly cleaned, with all adhesive residue scraped and ground back. The surface was then vacuumed and inspected for level.
2. Levelling: Low spots and the areas damaged by the previous floor removal were filled with a rapid-set levelling compound and feathered out to achieve a flat base within the manufacturer's tolerance.
3. Moisture barrier membrane: A DPM-grade polyethylene sheet membrane was laid over the prepared concrete, lapped up the walls by 50 millimetres, and taped at all joints. This creates a complete moisture break between the concrete and the wood above.
4. Pattern layout: We planned the herringbone layout to centre correctly in both rooms and align through the doorway, dry-laying the first several rows before committing to adhesive.
5. Block fitting: Parquet blocks were glued down using a flexible wood adhesive suitable for use over membrane. Each block was set level and checked as the pattern built out from the centreline.
6. Sanding and finishing: After a full 48-hour cure, the floor was sanded diagonally through three grit stages and finished with three coats of hard lacquer, lightly abraded between coats.

The Result

The floor came out clean and sharp, with the herringbone running correctly through both spaces and meeting neatly at the doorway. The lacquer finish complemented the natural character of the oak and gave the hallway a proper period feel that matched the house. The moisture barrier means the floor has a solid long-term foundation, and the client can expect this parquet to last for many decades without the kind of moisture-related problems that affect poorly installed floors. A well-fitted, lacquer-finished parquet floor maintains its appearance with nothing more than regular sweeping and an occasional damp mop with a suitable wood floor cleaner.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why is a moisture barrier important under parquet flooring?

Solid wood absorbs and releases moisture constantly in response to its environment. When the subfloor is damp, the blocks absorb moisture from below, expand, and eventually lift or cup. A membrane between the concrete and the wood prevents this moisture from reaching the blocks and protects the floor's structural integrity over the long term.

How do you ensure the herringbone pattern aligns correctly through a doorway?

Careful layout planning before any blocks are glued is essential. We establish a centreline that runs through the doorway and use this as the reference point for both rooms. The first few rows are dry-laid without adhesive to confirm the alignment before the permanent fitting begins.

Can parquet flooring be installed in a kitchen or bathroom?

We generally advise against solid parquet in rooms with high or unpredictable humidity, such as kitchens and bathrooms. Solid wood and constant moisture exposure are a poor combination. Engineered wood with a lacquer finish is a much better option for these areas if you want the wood floor look in wetter parts of the house.

Project Overview

This laminate flooring installation was completed at a terraced house in Crystal Palace, South East London. The client wanted to update their ground-floor rooms with a good-quality laminate that would give the look of real wood without the higher cost or maintenance requirements that come with solid or engineered flooring. Modern laminate has improved dramatically over the past decade. Today's products are thicker, more realistic in texture and grain detail, and considerably more hardwearing than the laminate products of twenty years ago. For a professional supply and fit, the typical cost falls between £35 and £60 per square metre, making it the most cost-effective way to get a wood-effect floor in good condition quickly.

The Challenge

The rooms had existing vinyl sheet flooring laid directly over concrete. The vinyl had to come up before the laminate could go down, and removing old glued vinyl from concrete is time-consuming work. In one area, the adhesive had hardened and bonded so firmly that the concrete surface was lightly pitted after removal. These pits needed to be filled before the laminate went down, as any significant surface irregularity beneath a floating laminate floor transmits through the boards as a slight flex that can, over time, stress the click joints. One doorway also had a slightly raised threshold that needed to be reduced to allow the floor to run through the room without a trip hazard at the door.

Our Approach

1. Vinyl removal: The existing vinyl was carefully cut into strips to make handling manageable, then pulled up. The old adhesive residue on the concrete was scraped and ground back as thoroughly as possible.
2. Subfloor repair: Any pitting from the adhesive removal was filled with a rapid-set patching compound and feathered smooth. The floor was checked for level and any remaining high spots were ground back.
3. Door threshold: The raised door threshold was planed down flush with the surrounding floor level so the laminate could run through the doorway cleanly without requiring a raised strip.
4. Damp-proof membrane: A DPM sheet was laid over the concrete and taped at all joints before the underlay went down, as a precaution against any residual moisture in the slab.
5. Underlay: A good-quality foam underlay was laid over the membrane. This adds cushioning underfoot, reduces the hollow sound that laminate can produce, and provides a small additional thermal benefit at floor level.
6. Laminate fitting: The boards were fitted in a staggered pattern, leaving the required expansion gap around all walls and fixed objects. Cuts were made cleanly to fit around door frames and the existing staircase foot.
7. Finishing: Matching beading was fitted around the perimeter to cover the expansion gap and colour-matched threshold strips were installed at each doorway.

The Result

The transformation was significant. The tired vinyl was replaced by a clean, warm-toned laminate that immediately brightened the rooms and made them feel more cared for. The client was pleased with how much the floor had improved the overall feel of the ground floor without a major outlay. The laminate chosen had a natural oak look with a subtle brushed texture, which suited the character of the house well. With normal care, a good quality laminate fitted over a properly prepared subfloor will last fifteen to twenty-five years before replacement becomes a consideration.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can laminate be fitted over an existing vinyl floor?

In some cases, laminate can be laid over existing vinyl if the vinyl is firmly bonded, flat, and in good condition, and if the additional height is not a problem at doorways. More often, we recommend removing the old vinyl first to ensure the subfloor is in known good condition and to avoid any unevenness being transmitted through to the new floor.

What thickness of laminate should I choose?

For domestic use, 8mm to 12mm laminate is the usual range. Thicker boards feel more solid underfoot, absorb sound better, and are generally more resistant to dents and damage. 12mm is a good choice for busy family homes. Thinner boards are suitable for lower-traffic rooms or where the floor height gain needs to be minimised.

How do I keep a laminate floor looking good long-term?

Daily sweeping or vacuuming to remove grit is the most important routine, as grit particles underfoot will gradually scratch the surface. For mopping, use a lightly dampened mop rather than a wet one, as standing water can get into the joints and cause swelling. Avoid steam mops entirely, as the high heat and moisture will damage most laminate products.

Project Overview

This was one of our more comprehensive fitting jobs in Hendon, covering the full removal of old floorboards, the installation of new hardwood flooring, new skirting boards and beading throughout. The property had worn, tired boards that had become uneven in places, and the skirting had seen better days. The clients wanted a complete upgrade rather than a repair, and chose a quality solid hardwood board to complement the character of the house.

The Challenge

The main difficulty with this project was the state of the existing subfloor once the old boards were lifted. Several areas required levelling before the new hardwood could go down, and some of the fixing points for the skirting needed making good. Getting the subfloor right before fitting is essential -- if the base is not level, even the best hardwood boards will creak and flex over time. We also had to carefully measure and cut the skirting and beading around several doorframes and chimney breast alcoves, which required precise mitring on site.

Our Approach

• Strip out: Old floorboards were carefully removed and the subfloor was cleaned back and inspected.
• Subfloor preparation: Any high spots were planed down and low areas filled with a self-levelling compound, which was allowed to cure fully before fitting began.
• Hardwood installation: New hardwood boards were laid and secret-nailed along the length of each room, working from a straight baseline. Boards were staggered for strength and visual consistency.
• Skirting and beading: New skirting boards were fitted to all walls, cut and mitred at corners. Beading was run along the floor-to-skirting junction to give a clean finish and allow for natural board movement.
• Final finishing: The floor was given a light sand and a coat of protective oil to bring out the grain and protect the surface from day one.

The Result

The transformation was striking. What had been a tired and uneven floor became a well-fitted, fresh hardwood installation with clean skirting lines throughout. The clients said the rooms felt completely different -- brighter and much more in keeping with the age of the property. Hardwood floor fitting in London typically costs between £35 and £60 per square metre for supply and fit, depending on board species and room complexity. This project came in well within that range and delivered a finish the clients were very happy with.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do you remove the old flooring as part of the fitting service?
Yes. Strip-out of the existing floor is included in most of our fitting quotes. We also deal with responsible disposal of the old materials.

Does hardwood flooring work with underfloor heating?
Many hardwood species are compatible with underfloor heating systems, provided the boards are properly acclimatised and the floor temperature does not exceed the recommended maximum. We can advise on suitable species at the survey stage.

Do you fit skirting boards as a standalone service?
Yes, we can fit and finish skirting boards independently of a flooring project. Get in touch and we will arrange a visit to measure up and provide a quote.

Project Overview

This Putney project covered the full process of hardwood floor installation followed by sanding and staining to the client's chosen finish. The clients had decided on unfinished hardwood boards rather than pre-finished, which gave them the freedom to choose an exact stain colour and finish level on site after fitting. We handled the complete job from subfloor preparation through to final lacquering, working across several interconnected rooms in the property.

The Challenge

Installing unfinished hardwood and finishing it on site requires two separate site visits with a dry period in between to allow the boards to acclimatise fully after fitting before any sanding begins. If you sand too soon after fitting, the boards may still be adjusting to the room's humidity and temperature, which can lead to an uneven surface after the finish goes on. The staining added another consideration -- the clients wanted a mid-tone warm colour that still showed the grain clearly rather than masking it with a very dark pigment. Getting this balance right took some testing on offcuts before committing to the full floor.

Our Approach

• Acclimatisation: Boards were delivered and stacked in the property several days before fitting, allowing the wood to adjust to the internal conditions.
• Subfloor check: The existing subfloor was checked for level and any high points addressed before boards went down.
• Installation: Hardwood boards were secret-nailed to the subfloor, working from a straight baseline and staggering joins between rows by at least 300mm.
• Post-fit wait: We allowed the floor to settle for several days before returning to sand.
• Sanding: A progressive sequence from coarse to fine grit produced a smooth, even surface across all rooms.
• Staining: The agreed warm mid-tone stain was applied evenly and allowed to penetrate fully before the first lacquer coat.
• Lacquering: Two coats of matt lacquer were applied to protect the stain and leave a natural-looking finish.

The Result

The finished floor was exactly what the clients had in mind. The stain gave a rich, warm tone that complemented the existing decor and the matt lacquer kept the look natural rather than overly shiny. Fitting unfinished hardwood and finishing it on site costs more in time and labour than a pre-finished board but gives a result that is genuinely tailored to the space. Fitting costs run between £35 and £60 per square metre, with sanding and finishing adding to that depending on the specification chosen.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why choose unfinished hardwood over pre-finished boards?
Unfinished boards let you choose the exact colour and sheen level to suit your room after fitting. There are also no factory finish edges between boards, which means the finished surface sits completely flat. The trade-off is a longer overall project timeline.

How long does the full process take from installation to final finish?
Installation typically takes one to two days for a medium room. After a settling period of several days, sanding and finishing takes another one to two days. Allow at least a week from fitting to fully finished floor.

Can you match a stain to floors in an adjacent room?
Yes, in most cases. We can test stain combinations on offcuts or a concealed area to get as close as possible to an existing floor tone. Exact matching is not always achievable depending on species and age of the existing floor, but a close match is usually possible.

Project Overview

This laminate floor installation in Fulham covered the main living and hallway areas of a modern flat. The clients had decided on laminate for a combination of reasons: budget, ease of maintenance, and a wide choice of styles that matched the contemporary interior design they were going for. The existing floor was a mix of old carpet and vinyl that both needed to come out before the laminate could go down. We handled the full job from strip-out to finished floor.

The Challenge

Laminate installation in a flat requires particular attention to the acoustic underlay specification. Most leasehold flats in London have requirements in the lease around impact sound reduction, and fitting without an adequate underlay can cause problems with neighbours and the building management. We checked the lease requirements and specified an acoustic underlay that met the relevant standard. The existing subfloor was also uneven in the hallway area, which needed addressing before the laminate boards could lie flat without any movement or hollow spots.

Our Approach

• Strip-out: Existing carpet, gripper rods and vinyl were removed and disposed of, leaving clean subfloor throughout.
• Subfloor preparation: The hallway subfloor was levelled using a self-levelling compound to remove dips and provide a stable, flat base.
• Underlay: An acoustic underlay meeting the building's specification was laid across the entire area to be floored.
• Laminate installation: Boards were laid using a floating click-lock method, starting from the most visible wall and working across the room. Joints were staggered throughout and expansion gaps were maintained at all walls.
• Trims and transitions: Scotia beading was fitted at all skirting junctions and transition strips installed at doorways and between different floor areas.

The Result

The finished floor looked sharp and fitted the flat's aesthetic perfectly. The clients were particularly pleased with how much brighter and larger the hallway appeared. Laminate flooring installation in London typically costs between £35 and £60 per square metre for supply and fit, making it one of the most accessible flooring options available. It is durable, easy to clean and available in hundreds of designs to suit any interior.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can laminate flooring be fitted over existing tiles or vinyl?
In many cases yes, provided the existing surface is level, secure and not too high. We assess this at the survey stage and advise whether overlay is suitable or whether strip-out is the better option.

Is laminate flooring suitable for kitchens and bathrooms?
Standard laminate is not waterproof but many modern boards have moisture-resistant cores that can tolerate occasional splashes. For wet rooms, we would generally recommend luxury vinyl tile (LVT) instead, which is fully waterproof.

How long does laminate installation take for a typical flat?
A two to three bedroom flat is usually completeable in one day for fitting alone. If strip-out and subfloor work are needed, allow two days.

Project Overview

This project in Walworth involved fitting engineered wood flooring with an acoustic underlay across the main floor of a first-floor flat. The clients had an older, worn floor that they wanted to replace with a stylish but practical alternative. They chose a rustic-grade engineered oak for its character and warmth, and our recommendation to use a high-performance acoustic underlay was accepted immediately, given their concern about noise impact on the flat below. The job covered the living room, hallway and two bedrooms.

The Challenge

The main challenge on this project was meeting the building's noise reduction requirements while also keeping the floor height increase to a minimum. High-performance acoustic underlays are thicker than standard foam underlays, which adds height. In this flat, several doorframes had limited clearance and we had to confirm the finished floor height before proceeding to ensure doors would clear the new surface. A couple of doors required the bottoms trimming once the floor was in, which we carried out on site.

Our Approach

• Strip-out: The old flooring was removed and the subfloor inspected for level and stability.
• Door height check: All internal doors were measured against the planned finished floor height to identify which ones would need trimming.
• Acoustic underlay: The specified acoustic underlay was laid and taped at all joints to form a continuous layer, providing both impact sound and thermal insulation.
• Engineered wood fitting: Rustic oak engineered boards were laid using a floating click-lock method, maintaining consistent expansion gaps at all walls and fixed points.
• Door trimming: Two internal doors were planed along the bottom edge on site to clear the new floor level.
• Trims: Matching beading and transition strips were fitted throughout to give a clean finish at all edges.

The Result

The finished floor looked excellent and the acoustic performance was immediately apparent -- the clients noticed a significant reduction in the hollow sound underfoot compared with the previous flooring. The rustic oak character added warmth and personality to the rooms. Engineered wood flooring supply and fit in London typically costs between £35 and £60 per square metre depending on the grade and profile chosen, with acoustic underlays adding a modest premium over standard products. The overall result was a floor the clients were very happy with and that met all the building's requirements.

Frequently Asked Questions

Does all flooring in flats need an acoustic underlay?
Most leases for flats in England and Wales include a requirement for floor coverings to meet a minimum impact sound reduction standard. We always recommend checking your lease before fitting and can advise on underlay specifications that meet typical requirements.

What is rustic grade engineered wood?
Rustic grade boards include a greater number of natural features such as knots, colour variation and grain character. This is different from prime or select grade, which is more uniform. Rustic grade is popular for its warmer and more natural appearance.

Can engineered wood be fitted over underfloor heating?
Yes, engineered wood is generally more stable than solid wood and well suited to use over underfloor heating systems. Board thickness and species affect how efficiently heat transfers through, and we can advise on the best options at the survey stage.

Project Overview

This engineered wood flooring installation in Abbey Wood replaced a solid wood floor that had been damaged beyond economical repair by repeated moisture fluctuations. The clients had chosen to move to engineered boards, which have a more dimensionally stable construction and are better suited to homes where humidity levels vary throughout the year. We fitted the new floor across the ground floor of the property, covering the living room, dining area and hallway.

The Challenge

The existing subfloor had been affected by the same moisture issues that had damaged the old solid wood floor. Before the new engineered boards could go down, the subfloor needed to be dried out properly and in some areas replaced where it had deteriorated. We also needed to identify and address the source of the moisture ingress before fitting -- there was no point fitting a new floor on a subfloor that was still damp. The moisture issue turned out to be a failed damp-proof membrane in part of the ground floor, which was treated and sealed before we proceeded.

Our Approach

• Subfloor investigation: Moisture readings were taken across the full area before any work began. Problem areas were mapped and the source of moisture identified.
• Remediation: The failed damp-proof membrane section was treated. Affected subfloor sections were replaced and allowed to dry to an acceptable moisture level before fitting.
• Acclimatisation: Engineered boards were left in the property for several days to adjust to the ambient conditions before fitting began.
• Installation: Boards were glued down to the subfloor rather than floated, which provides a more stable result in an environment with known moisture history. Gluing down also eliminates the hollow sound underfoot that floating installations can sometimes produce.
• Finishing: Expansion gaps were fitted at all walls and covered with matching beading. A final protective oil coat was applied across the whole floor.

The Result

The new floor looked fantastic and the clients immediately noticed how much more stable and solid it felt compared with the old floor in its later years. By addressing the moisture issue properly before fitting, we gave the new floor the best possible start. Engineered wood flooring supply and installation typically runs between £35 and £60 per square metre. The additional work on the subfloor was costed separately and transparently, and the clients felt the overall investment was excellent value given the quality of the result.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why is engineered wood more stable than solid wood?
Engineered wood has a real wood top layer bonded to a core made of multiple layers of plywood or HDF. These layers are laid at opposing angles, which counteracts the natural tendency of wood to expand and contract with moisture changes. This makes it more suitable for ground floors and environments with variable humidity.

Should engineered wood be glued down or floated?
Both methods work well in different circumstances. Gluing down is preferable where the subfloor has a history of moisture issues or where a very solid feel underfoot is required. Floating is faster and makes the floor easier to remove in future if needed. We advise on the best method at the survey stage.

Do you cover Abbey Wood and southeast London?
Yes. We work across southeast London including Abbey Wood, Woolwich, Plumstead and the wider DA and SE postcode areas.

Project Overview

This project in Northwest London involved fitting engineered wood flooring along with a full set of flooring accessories to achieve a complete, professional finish throughout the property. The clients had selected the boards themselves and asked us to supply all the accessories -- skirting, beading, threshold strips, and reducer profiles -- and to fit everything as a complete package. The project covered multiple rooms across two floors, each with slightly different subfloor conditions and doorframe configurations.

The Challenge

Managing accessories across a multi-room project requires accurate pre-measurement and coordination to ensure consistent materials throughout. Different rooms also had different transition requirements -- some doorways connected rooms at the same level while others had small height differences that needed reducer strips rather than flat transitions. Matching all accessories to the board tone required careful selection, and a couple of the original samples supplied did not match well enough, so we arranged alternatives before the fit day.

Our Approach

• Pre-fit survey: All rooms were measured and accessory requirements calculated in detail to avoid any shortfalls on the day.
• Subfloor preparation: Any uneven areas were levelled and the subfloor cleaned before fitting began.
• Board fitting: Engineered boards were laid room by room using a floating method, maintaining consistent expansion gaps and staggering joints between rows.
• Skirting installation: Existing skirting was removed and replaced with new matching skirting boards, neatly mitred at corners and scribed to any uneven walls.
• Threshold and transition strips: All doorway transitions were fitted with the appropriate profile -- flat T-bars where floors met at the same height and reducers where there was a step.
• Beading: Floor-to-skirting beading was used in areas where the existing skirting was retained, to cover the expansion gap cleanly.

The Result

The completed project had a consistent, polished look throughout the property. Having matching accessories fitted at the same time as the floor made a significant difference to the finished appearance -- all transitions and edges were neat and intentional rather than an afterthought. Engineered wood floor installation in London costs between £35 and £60 per square metre for the boards and fitting, with accessories and skirting costed separately. The clients were very pleased with the result and the way all elements came together as a single cohesive floor.

Frequently Asked Questions

What flooring accessories are typically needed for an installation?
Most installations need at minimum some form of edge trim or beading to cover the expansion gap at the walls, and transition strips at all doorways. Skirting boards are fitted where the existing skirting is being replaced. Reducers or ramp profiles are needed where the new floor meets a lower surface such as tiles or carpet.

Do you supply accessories as well as fit them?
Yes. We can supply a full range of accessories that are matched or co-ordinated to the boards. This saves clients the time of sourcing each component separately and ensures compatibility.

Can engineered wood be fitted on the first floor as well as the ground floor?
Yes. Engineered wood is suitable for any floor level. On upper floors, we always check the subfloor condition and recommend an acoustic underlay where noise transmission to the floor below is a concern.

Project Overview

This project in Willesden was one of the most varied we have undertaken in a single residential property. The scope included engineered wood flooring installation in the main living areas, vinyl flooring in the kitchen and bathroom, hardwood floor sanding, buffing and lacquering in an existing bedroom floor, and gap filling and staining in the hallway. The clients were doing a full refurbishment and wanted all flooring handled by a single contractor to keep coordination simple and the finished look consistent across the property.

The Challenge

Managing multiple flooring types simultaneously in a single property requires careful scheduling so that wet processes such as staining and lacquering do not hold up other areas or get contaminated by dust from sanding. We planned the sequence carefully: strip-out and subfloor preparation first across the whole property, then vinyl installation in the wet rooms, followed by engineered fitting in the living rooms, and finally sanding, staining and lacquering in the bedroom and hallway after all other work was complete. Keeping the dust from the sanding operation contained was also important given the fresh installations elsewhere.

Our Approach

• Sequencing: A detailed daily schedule was agreed before work began to ensure each trade area was ready before the relevant team moved in.
• Vinyl fitting: Kitchen and bathroom vinyl was cut and laid on prepared subfloors with full adhesive bonding to prevent movement in wet conditions.
• Engineered fitting: Living room engineered boards were laid floating over an acoustic underlay, with expansion gaps maintained throughout.
• Gap filling and sanding: The hallway hardwood received gap filling first, followed by machine sanding once the filler had cured.
• Staining: A warm mid-tone stain was applied to the hallway to tie it visually to the engineered boards in the adjacent rooms.
• Lacquering: All sanded areas received two coats of satin lacquer to complete the job.

The Result

The finished property had a consistent, well-thought-out flooring scheme throughout. The stained hallway bridged the gap between the new engineered boards in the reception rooms and the existing bedroom floor, making the whole ground floor feel connected. The vinyl in the wet rooms was practical and looked sharp. Having one contractor handle everything saved the clients a considerable amount of coordination time and produced a result that felt planned rather than piecemeal. Fitting costs typically run between £35 and £60 per square metre for engineered boards, with sanding and finishing at £25 to £45 per square metre for the restoration elements.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can you handle multiple flooring types in one project?
Yes. We regularly work on properties where different rooms require different flooring solutions. Managing the sequencing and transitions between floor types is something we plan carefully at the survey stage.

What are the benefits of vinyl flooring in kitchens and bathrooms?
Modern vinyl flooring is fully waterproof, easy to clean, warm underfoot and available in a wide range of designs including stone and wood looks. It can also be fitted over most existing subfloors without the height build-up of other options.

Do you work in Willesden and the NW10 area?
Yes. We cover Willesden, Harlesden, Cricklewood, Kilburn and the surrounding north-west London postcodes. Contact us to arrange a free survey.