All Projects Renovations Installations

Project Overview

This Walthamstow property needed a new floor fitted across the ground floor, with the client choosing engineered wood as the preferred option. The installation included all floor accessories, beading and threshold strips to complete the finish throughout. The client had chosen their board specification in advance and wanted a clean, straightforward installation with minimal disruption.

The Challenge

The subfloor in this property had a slight variation in level across the room, which is common in older London terraces. Before any boards go down, the subfloor must be within the manufacturer's tolerance for levelness, otherwise boards will flex, joints will open, and the floor will develop a hollow sound underfoot. There was also a question about the best installation method given the layout of the space and the direction of natural light, which affects how the grain of the boards reads in a finished room.

Our Approach

Subfloor Preparation

We started with a full inspection and measurement of the subfloor. Where the level was outside tolerance, we used a self-levelling compound to bring the surface into an acceptable range before any boarding work began. This step takes time but is what separates a floor that stays flat and tight over years from one that starts showing problems within months.

Acclimatisation

The engineered boards were left in the property for the recommended period before fitting. Engineered wood is more stable than solid hardwood, but it still responds to the temperature and humidity of the space it will be installed in. Skipping this step is a common cause of gaps appearing after fitting.

Board Installation

The boards were fitted using a floating method, which is well suited to this type of subfloor and allows the floor to move slightly with seasonal changes in the home environment. We worked from the most visible wall, keeping the layout symmetrical and the board direction aligned to the length of the room. Expansion gaps were maintained at all perimeters.

Finishing and Accessories

Once all boards were down, we fitted skirting beading to cover the expansion gaps and installed threshold strips at all doorways and transitions. These finishing details are what make the installation look complete and professional rather than rushed.

The Result

The finished floor runs cleanly through the ground floor of the property, with all accessories neatly fitted and consistent throughout. The client was happy with the layout decision and the way the boards read in the natural light of the space. Engineered floor fitting in London is typically priced between £35 and £60 per square metre for supply and fit, depending on the board specification and the condition of the existing subfloor.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does engineered floor fitting take for a ground floor?
For a typical two to three room ground floor in a London terrace, fitting usually takes one to two days, depending on the complexity of the layout and the amount of subfloor preparation needed. Larger areas or more complicated layouts will take longer.

Can engineered flooring be sanded and refinished?
Yes, most engineered boards have a wear layer thick enough to be lightly sanded and refinished at least once during their lifetime. The number of times depends on the thickness of the veneer layer, which varies between products. We can advise on this when specifying the boards.

Is engineered wood suitable for properties with underfloor heating?
Engineered wood is one of the best options for use over underfloor heating. Its layered construction gives it much greater dimensional stability than solid wood when exposed to the heat cycles of a UFH system. We check the specific product compatibility and maximum temperature tolerances for each installation.

Project Overview

The client at this Streatham Hill SW16 property had selected QuickStep Impressive Ultra Classic Oak Natural laminate flooring and needed it fitted throughout the ground floor. QuickStep Impressive Ultra is one of the better-performing laminate products on the market, with a realistic wood texture and a scratch-resistant surface layer. The installation covered the living room, hallway, and a connecting dining area.

The Challenge

The main challenge on this project was the subfloor condition. The property had an older concrete screed base in the hallway and a timber subfloor in the living and dining areas, which meant we were dealing with two different subfloor types in a continuous installation. These different surfaces behave slightly differently, and getting the joint between them right, with consistent levelness on both sides, required careful preparation work before any boards went down. There was also a slight damp reading in one section of the concrete subfloor, which needed addressing before fitting to avoid any issues with the boards over time.

Our Approach

Subfloor Preparation

The concrete areas were checked with a damp meter and treated with a damp-proof membrane where the readings were above the acceptable threshold. Both the concrete and the timber subfloor sections were levelled to within the tolerance required by the QuickStep installation guidelines. Getting this right before the boards go down prevents movement, hollow spots, and joint separation later.

Underlayment

A foam underlayment with built-in vapour barrier was laid across the full floor area. This provides additional sound insulation, a slight cushion underfoot, and a secondary barrier against any residual moisture from the subfloor below.

Board Installation

The boards were fitted using a floating click system, which is the standard installation method for QuickStep Impressive Ultra. We planned the layout to avoid having very narrow cuts at either side of the room and aligned the boards with the main light source to make the most of the grain texture. Expansion gaps were maintained at all walls and fixed elements throughout.

Finishing

All expansion gaps were covered with matching QuickStep beading and threshold strips. The finish details at doorways were given particular attention, as these transitions are where a laminate installation most often looks unfinished if not done carefully.

The Result

The finished floor runs cleanly throughout the ground floor, with a consistent look across both subfloor types. The QuickStep boards have a natural, realistic texture that suits the property well. The client was happy with the result and the level of disruption, which was kept to a single working day for the fitting itself. Laminate floor fitting typically costs between £35 and £55 per square metre for supply and fit of a mid-range product.

Frequently Asked Questions

How does QuickStep Impressive Ultra compare to cheaper laminate products?
The main differences are in the surface texture, wear layer thickness, and the quality of the click joint. Impressive Ultra has a more realistic embossed texture that closely matches the feel of real wood, a thicker wear layer for greater scratch resistance, and a tighter joint that is less prone to movement or separation over time. It is worth the higher cost in a high-traffic area.

Can laminate flooring be repaired if individual boards are damaged?
On a floating installation, individual boards can be replaced without lifting the whole floor, as long as you have spare boards of the same product. This is one of the advantages of a click-fit floating floor. We always recommend keeping a small number of spare boards from the original batch for this reason.

Is laminate suitable for a hallway with a front door?
Laminate can work well in a hallway, but the area directly inside a front door is exposed to more moisture and grit than the rest of the floor. A good underlayment, a moisture-resistant laminate product like Impressive Ultra, and sensible use of a door mat will all extend the life of the floor significantly in this area.

Project Overview

This Clapton E5 project combined a new oak parquet floor installation with full sanding and refinishing of the laid floor. The client was having a new herringbone parquet floor put down in the main ground floor reception room, and wanted the installation, sanding, and finishing all handled as a single project. Oak parquet blocks were specified, laid in the traditional herringbone pattern, then sanded and finished to a natural lacquer once the adhesive had fully cured.

The Challenge

Installing and then sanding a new parquet floor involves careful sequencing. The blocks must be fully bonded to the subfloor before any sanding takes place, otherwise the sanding process can lift blocks or cause them to move and leave gaps. The adhesive cure time needs to be respected rather than rushed, which means the project takes longer than either installation or sanding alone. The subfloor in this property also needed plywood overlay work to bring it up to the flatness required for a glued parquet installation. Parquet is far less forgiving of subfloor irregularities than a floating engineered board, so this preparation stage could not be skipped.

Our Approach

Subfloor Preparation

We installed a plywood subfloor overlay across the full room, secured and flat, to provide the base needed for a glued parquet installation. The surface was checked with a long straight edge at multiple points to confirm it was within the tolerance required.

Parquet Block Installation

The herringbone pattern was set out from the centre of the room to ensure the pattern sits symmetrically. Oak parquet blocks were bonded to the prepared subfloor using a flexible wood floor adhesive, which provides the bond needed while allowing a small degree of movement as the timber responds to changes in room conditions. The full room was completed before the floor was left to cure.

Sanding the New Floor

Once the adhesive had fully cured, we sanded the floor following the correct diagonal approach for herringbone parquet. New parquet blocks often have slight height variations between individual pieces, so the initial sanding pass works to level the surface before the finishing passes refine it. The result is a flat, consistent surface across the whole room.

Finishing

A natural-tone hardwearing lacquer was applied in three coats to protect the new oak floor. The finish was chosen to let the natural colour and grain of the oak read clearly without adding any artificial tint.

The Result

The finished herringbone floor is a significant upgrade to the room. The pattern reads well in the space, the oak colour is warm and consistent, and the finish provides good protection for daily use. The client was pleased with the quality of the work and the way the installation was managed as a single cohesive project. Parquet installation and sanding in London typically costs from £70 to £100 per square metre for supply, fit, sand, and finish, reflecting the additional skill and time required compared to a straightforward strip board installation.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does new parquet adhesive need to cure before sanding?
This depends on the specific adhesive product used, the ambient temperature, and the subfloor conditions. Most wood floor adhesives require a minimum of 24 to 48 hours before sanding can begin, and some two-component adhesives need longer. We always follow the manufacturer's guidance and will not rush this stage.

Is new parquet more expensive than engineered boards?
Parquet installation is generally at the higher end of wood floor pricing because of the additional skill required in laying the pattern, the adhesive bonding process, and the specialist sanding approach. For a herringbone oak parquet installed, sanded, and finished, you can expect to pay from around £70 to £100 per square metre as a guide.

How should a new oak parquet floor be maintained long term?
Regular sweeping and occasional damp mopping with a wood-compatible cleaner is sufficient for day-to-day maintenance. Avoid excess water on the surface. Felt pads under furniture legs prevent scratches. The floor should be refinished when the lacquer shows signs of wear, typically every five to ten years depending on use.

Project Overview

This Willesden property needed new flooring fitted in the kitchen and hallway. The client had chosen luxury vinyl plank flooring, which offers the appearance of real wood with much greater resistance to moisture and heavy use. The existing floor covering was removed as part of the project, the subfloor was prepared, and the new vinyl planks were installed throughout both areas.

The Challenge

The kitchen and hallway in this property presented a couple of practical challenges. First, the existing floor covering had left behind adhesive residue in places, which needed to be removed before a new floor could be laid on top. Second, the transition between the kitchen and hallway had a slight level difference, which needed to be addressed to avoid an obvious bump or lip in the finished floor. Modern luxury vinyl planks are thinner than most other floor types, which means subfloor imperfections can telegraph through to the surface more readily if the base is not properly prepared.

Our Approach

Removal of Existing Covering and Subfloor Preparation

The old flooring was removed and the subfloor was cleaned down to remove all adhesive residue and debris. The level difference between the two rooms was addressed using a self-levelling compound to create a continuous, flat base. Once the levelling compound had set and been checked, the subfloor was in the condition needed to proceed.

Moisture Assessment

Before installation, we tested for moisture levels in the concrete subfloor. Vinyl planks are highly moisture resistant on their surface, but excess moisture rising through a concrete subfloor can cause adhesion problems or allow mould to develop under the floor if not managed correctly. Readings were within the acceptable range and no additional treatment was required.

Vinyl Plank Installation

The vinyl planks were installed using a floating click system, which allows the floor to be fitted quickly without adhesive and makes future replacement of individual damaged planks straightforward. The layout was planned to avoid narrow cut pieces at the visible entry points and to run the boards in the direction of the main light source.

Finishing

Matching threshold strips and end trims were fitted at all transitions and doorways to give the installation a clean, finished appearance. Trim details make a significant visual difference to the finished result.

The Result

The finished floor looks clean and consistent across the kitchen and hallway, with a good visual transition between the two spaces. The luxury vinyl plank product chosen gives a convincing wood-look result at a fraction of the cost of real wood, and its performance in a kitchen environment will outlast most alternative options. Vinyl floor fitting is typically one of the more cost-effective flooring options available, generally falling between £35 and £55 per square metre for supply and fit of a mid-grade luxury vinyl product.

Frequently Asked Questions

How does luxury vinyl plank compare to laminate in a kitchen?
The main advantage of vinyl over laminate in a kitchen or any wet area is its full waterproofing. Laminate products, even moisture-resistant ones, can swell or delaminate if they are regularly exposed to water. Luxury vinyl planks are completely waterproof and will handle spills, splashes, and cleaning without any risk of damage.

Can vinyl flooring be fitted over existing tiles?
In most cases, yes. As long as the existing tiles are firmly bonded and the surface is reasonably level, vinyl planks can be fitted directly over the top. This can save the cost and disruption of tile removal. The existing tile surface does need to be checked carefully for any proud grout lines or uneven areas that could show through.

How long does luxury vinyl plank flooring last?
A good quality luxury vinyl plank with a proper wear layer should last fifteen to twenty years or more under normal domestic use. The wear layer thickness is the key specification to check when selecting a product. A 0.3mm wear layer is adequate for light use; 0.5mm or above is recommended for kitchens, hallways, and other high-traffic areas.

Project Overview

This Buckhurst Hill property needed new flooring installed across the main living areas. The client had opted for engineered wood as their preferred choice, primarily because the house had some areas with potential for moisture variation, including a room over an unventilated crawl space. Engineered wood's layered construction makes it considerably more stable in these conditions than solid hardwood, which was the right call for this particular property. The installation covered the living room, dining area, and hallway.

The Challenge

The room over the crawl space had shown slightly higher moisture readings in the past, and the subfloor in that area needed careful assessment before any flooring went down. Fitting engineered boards over a subfloor with unresolved moisture issues can lead to cupping, where the boards bow upward at their edges as they absorb moisture, or to the adhesive failing if the boards are glued down. The hallway subfloor also had an old adhesive residue from a previous floor covering that needed removing before a clean installation base was available.

Our Approach

Subfloor Assessment and Preparation

We carried out moisture testing across all subfloor areas. The room over the crawl space had a slightly elevated reading, which we addressed with a moisture barrier membrane before installation began. The adhesive residue in the hallway was mechanically removed and the surface levelled and cleaned.

Acclimatisation

The engineered boards were delivered to the property and left to acclimatise for the manufacturer's recommended period before fitting. This allowed the boards to reach equilibrium with the temperature and humidity of the space, reducing the risk of movement after installation.

Installation

The boards were fitted using a combination of floating and glued methods, chosen according to the subfloor type in each area. The floating method was used in the main rooms for ease of future access, and a direct glue-down method was used in the hallway where there was less room for expansion and a firmer fix was preferable. All expansion gaps at perimeters were correctly maintained throughout.

Accessories and Finishing

Matching beading, threshold strips, and reducer bars were fitted at all walls and transitions. The product specifications were matched to the board profile to give a neat, factory-finished appearance at all edges.

The Result

The finished floor runs consistently throughout the property, with clean transitions between areas and all accessories properly fitted. The engineered boards have held their position well since installation with no movement or cupping, which confirms the subfloor preparation work was effective. Engineered floor fitting in Essex and the surrounding areas typically costs from £35 to £60 per square metre for supply and fit, depending on the board specification and subfloor preparation required.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why is engineered wood better than solid wood in a property with moisture concerns?
Engineered wood is constructed from multiple layers of timber bonded together at different grain directions, which gives it much greater dimensional stability than a solid plank. Where solid wood can expand, contract, cup, or bow significantly in response to moisture changes, engineered boards move far less and are far less likely to develop problems in areas where moisture control is not perfect.

What is the best installation method for engineered wood - floating or glue-down?
Both methods work well, and the best choice depends on the subfloor type and the property layout. Floating is quicker to install and easier to replace in sections if needed. Glue-down gives a more solid underfoot feel and is better in narrower spaces or areas with limited room for expansion. Many installations use both methods in different areas of the same property.

How thick should an engineered board be for a standard domestic installation?
Most domestic engineered floor installations use boards between 12mm and 20mm total thickness. The total thickness affects the underfoot feel and the height change at doorway transitions. The veneer thickness is also important as it determines how many times the floor can be sanded in the future. A 3mm or 4mm veneer is generally recommended for a floor you want to be able to refinish.

Project Overview

This Northwood property had a new hardwood floor installed and sanded as a complete project. The client had chosen unfinished solid oak boards for the main reception room, wanting a traditional solid wood floor that could be sanded and finished on site to their exact specification. The installation, on-site sanding, and oil finish were all handled as a single project, from subfloor preparation through to final coat.

The Challenge

Installing solid hardwood floors requires more subfloor preparation and care than engineered boards. Solid wood is more sensitive to moisture and will move significantly if the subfloor is not completely dry, the room is not at a stable temperature and humidity, or the boards are not given sufficient time to acclimatise before fitting. Getting the subfloor condition right is not optional with solid wood. Skipping or rushing these steps is the most common cause of problems after installation. The room in this property also had a bay window area that required careful planning to keep the floor pattern consistent around the projection without leaving awkward cut pieces in the most visible part of the room.

Our Approach

Subfloor Preparation

The subfloor was thoroughly checked for levelness, moisture content, and structural soundness. A plywood overlay was installed to provide a stable, flat base for the hardwood boards. This is standard practice when laying solid wood over an older concrete or suspended timber subfloor, as it provides a consistent nailing or stapling surface and helps buffer any residual moisture variation in the subfloor below.

Acclimatisation

The solid oak boards were delivered to the property and left in the room where they would be fitted for the full manufacturer-recommended acclimatisation period. This is a step we take seriously, as the amount of movement in a solid wood floor post-installation is directly related to how well the boards were acclimatised before fitting.

Board Installation

The boards were installed using a secret-nail method, working from the straightest wall and using a board straightener to keep each run tight and aligned. The bay window area was planned from the outset to keep the board layout symmetrical and avoid cuts at the focal points of the room.

On-Site Sanding and Finishing

Once installed and allowed to settle, the floor was sanded through a multi-stage programme starting with a levelling grit and finishing with a fine grit ready for the oil application. A natural hardwax oil was applied in two coats, buffed between each, giving the oak a warm, open-grained finish that suits the character of the room well.

The Result

The finished floor is a significant improvement to the reception room. The solid oak has a warmth and depth that suits the property, the grain reads well across the space, and the oil finish gives good protection without adding any artificial sheen. The client was particularly pleased with the bay window layout, which came out cleanly and consistently. Solid hardwood floor installation and sanding in the Northwood area typically costs from around £50 to £80 per square metre for supply, fit, sand, and finish, depending on the timber species and the finish specification.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does solid wood need to acclimatise before fitting?
The standard recommendation is a minimum of three to five days in the room where the floor will be fitted, with the boards stacked so air can circulate around them. In older properties with older heating systems or in winter months when heating cycles are more pronounced, a longer acclimatisation period is advisable. We always recommend erring on the longer side rather than rushing this step.

Can a solid wood floor be installed in a kitchen or bathroom?
We generally advise against solid wood in kitchens and bathrooms due to the exposure to moisture. Engineered wood is a far better choice in these rooms and can be specified to look identical to solid wood from above. Solid wood is best used in rooms where moisture and temperature are well controlled, such as living rooms and bedrooms.

How many times can a solid hardwood floor be sanded in its lifetime?
This depends on the thickness of the boards and the amount removed with each sand. A 20mm solid oak board, for example, can typically be sanded four to six times over its lifetime before the tongue is approached. This makes solid hardwood one of the most long-lasting flooring options available, with a potential lifespan of many decades when maintained correctly.

Project Overview

This laminate floor fitting project was completed at a flat in Fulham, West London. The client was renovating their living room and kitchen area and wanted a floor that would look great, stand up to daily use, and not cost a fortune. Laminate flooring was the natural choice. Modern laminate has come an enormous distance from the flimsy products sold in the 1990s. Today's boards are thick, stable, and convincingly replicate the look and texture of real wood, including brushed finishes, hand-scraped effects, and natural grain variation. For a professional supply and fit, clients in London should expect to pay in the region of £35 to £60 per square metre, depending on the grade of laminate selected.

The Challenge

The room had an old carpet and underlay over a concrete subfloor that needed to be lifted before any fitting could begin. Concrete subfloors are unforgiving: any high spots or hollow areas will cause laminate boards to flex, click, and potentially crack at the joints over time. The concrete in this property had a few raised areas near a previous plumbing repair and some uneven dips near the wall. Getting this flat enough for floating laminate installation required careful grinding and levelling before the boards went down. Door frame clearances also needed to be checked, as the new floor raised the finished height by about twelve millimetres.

Our Approach

1. Strip-out: We lifted and disposed of the existing carpet, gripper rods, and underlay, clearing the subfloor completely before starting any prep work.
2. Subfloor preparation: The concrete was swept, vacuumed, and inspected for high spots. Raised areas were ground back with a belt sander and a self-levelling compound was poured over the low areas and feathered out to create a flat, smooth base.
3. Damp-proof membrane: A polyethylene damp-proof membrane was laid over the concrete to prevent any residual moisture from migrating into the laminate boards and causing swelling or joint lift.
4. Underlay installation: A quality foam underlay with a built-in moisture barrier was rolled out over the membrane. A good underlay is critical for reducing the hollow sound laminate can produce underfoot and for improving thermal insulation at floor level.
5. Laminate fitting: The boards were fitted in a staggered brick-bond pattern, leaving the manufacturer-recommended expansion gap around the perimeter. Door frames were undercut to allow the boards to slide beneath, giving a clean finish without the need for ugly architrave trims.
6. Finishing details: Scotia beading was fitted around the perimeter and colour-matched threshold strips were installed at every doorway to complete the job neatly.

The Result

The finished room looked clean, modern, and well-put-together. The laminate chosen had a natural oak tone with a lightly textured surface that worked well with the existing decor. The client commented that it looked far more like real wood than they had expected. The floor is now warm underfoot, quiet to walk on, and straightforward to keep clean. With normal care, a good quality laminate floor installed over a properly prepared subfloor will last fifteen to twenty-five years before replacement becomes necessary.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need underlay under laminate flooring?

Yes, always. Underlay cushions the boards, reduces the hollow sound laminate can make underfoot, and helps with thermal insulation. Over a concrete subfloor, an underlay with an integrated damp-proof membrane is particularly important. Some laminate boards come with underlay pre-attached, but a separate, higher-quality underlay generally gives better results.

Can laminate be fitted over underfloor heating?

Many modern laminate products are compatible with underfloor heating, but the system temperature must not exceed 27 degrees Celsius at the surface and the floor should be allowed to acclimatise to the room for at least 48 hours before fitting. Always check the manufacturer's specifications for the laminate you are using.

How do I deal with gaps between laminate and skirting boards?

The expansion gap between the laminate and the wall is deliberate and necessary. It is covered by the skirting board or by a separate Scotia bead fitted over it. Never fill this gap with sealant or fix anything into it, as this prevents the floor from expanding and can cause buckling.

Project Overview

This engineered wood floor fitting project took place at a detached house in North Finchley, North London. The client was upgrading from a worn fitted carpet in their living room and dining room and wanted a real wood floor that would be durable, easy to maintain, and suitable for a home with young children and a dog. Engineered wood was the right choice on all counts. It has a genuine hardwood surface layer, is more stable than solid wood, and can handle the humidity and temperature variation that comes with a busy family home. For a professional supply and fit, engineered wood floor installation in London generally runs between £35 and £60 per square metre.

The Challenge

The two rooms shared a doorway, and getting the boards to run continuously through both spaces without a threshold strip at the door was something the client specifically wanted. This required careful planning of the board layout from the start, as the run direction had to work visually in both rooms simultaneously. The subfloor was a combination of chipboard sheets over joists, and one section near the bay window had developed some bounce that needed to be addressed before fitting. A bouncy subfloor puts stress on click joints and can cause boards to pop apart over time if not sorted at the outset.

Our Approach

1. Carpet removal: We lifted and removed the existing carpets, gripper rods, and underlay from both rooms, disposing of all waste off-site.
2. Subfloor inspection and repair: The chipboard was checked for movement, squeaks, and high spots. Two boards near the bay window were screwed back down firmly to eliminate the bounce, and a couple of raised edges were planed flat.
3. Acclimatisation: The engineered boards were left flat in the rooms for 48 hours before fitting to allow them to adjust to the temperature and humidity of the space. Skipping this step is a common cause of gapping or cupping after installation.
4. Underlay: A high-quality foam underlay with a built-in damp-proof membrane was laid in both rooms, overlapping at seams and taped securely.
5. Fitting: The boards were installed using a floating click system, laid in a staggered pattern for structural strength. The run direction was planned to pass through the doorway without interruption, giving the open-plan feel the client was after.
6. Finishing: Expansion gaps were covered with matching skirting boards, and any door frames that needed undercutting for clearance were dealt with cleanly so the boards tucked underneath rather than butting up against them.

The Result

The finished floor looked excellent. The boards ran cleanly through both rooms without any interruption at the doorway, which made the space feel larger and more connected. The engineered oak chosen had a brushed natural finish that worked well with the existing furniture and decor. The client was pleased with how practical it already felt, noting that marks from the dog could be wiped off instantly, which was not the case with the old carpet. Engineered wood installed over a well-prepared subfloor and maintained correctly should last 25 to 30 years before any remedial work is needed.

Frequently Asked Questions

Does engineered wood flooring need to acclimatise before fitting?

Yes. Engineered boards should be left flat in the room where they will be fitted for at least 48 hours before installation. This allows the wood to adjust to the ambient temperature and humidity and reduces the risk of post-installation gapping or warping caused by boards that go in at a different moisture content from the room environment.

Can engineered wood be fitted over underfloor heating?

Most engineered wood products are compatible with underfloor heating, making them a much better choice than solid wood in these situations. The key is to ensure the surface temperature does not exceed 27 degrees Celsius and that the system is ramped up and down gradually rather than switched on at full power in a cold room. Always check the specific product's guidelines before installation.

What is the difference between floating and glued engineered wood fitting?

Floating fitting means the boards click together and rest on the underlay without being fixed to the subfloor. It is quick, allows some movement, and can be taken up if needed. Gluing the boards down is more permanent and reduces any residual movement or sound, but is harder to reverse. For most domestic projects over a chipboard or concrete subfloor, floating fitting is perfectly adequate.

Project Overview

This project in West Ealing involved the supply, fitting, sanding, and lacquering of modern mosaic oak parquet flooring in a ground-floor reception room. The client wanted the classic look of a traditional herringbone parquet floor but had a budget that made individual block laying impractical. Mosaic oak finger panels offered the perfect answer. These panels come with a pre-arranged parquet pattern already assembled on a backing, which cuts the installation time significantly compared to laying individual blocks. The result is visually indistinguishable from a traditionally laid parquet floor once sanded and finished. Mosaic parquet installation with finishing typically falls in the £70 to £100 per square metre range.

The Challenge

The main challenge with mosaic parquet panels is that the backing material needs to be completely removed before sanding can begin. The panels arrive glued to a hessian or paper backing for ease of installation, but this backing must be fully stripped and the adhesive residue removed to get a true, consistent sand across the surface. Any residue left on the surface will clog sanding belts and prevent the finish from bonding properly. In addition, the panels had to be laid so that the finger pattern aligned correctly across the full width of the room. Getting this layout right at the start is critical because any misalignment is very obvious once the floor is finished.

Our Approach

1. Subfloor preparation: We removed the existing floor covering and prepared the subfloor, ensuring it was clean, flat, and dry. Any high spots were sanded back and low areas were filled with a levelling compound.
2. Layout planning: We dry-laid the first few rows across the room to establish the correct alignment and confirm the panel orientation before any adhesive was applied.
3. Panel fitting: The panels were glued down using a flexible floor adhesive, working from the centre of the room out to the walls. The backing was pressed firmly into the adhesive and any air pockets worked out before the adhesive set.
4. Backing removal: Once the adhesive had cured, we dampened the backing with water and carefully peeled it away. Any remaining adhesive residue was scraped and sanded off before the main sanding run began.
5. Sanding: The surface was sanded diagonally in two directions, as with traditional herringbone parquet, progressing through coarse, medium, and fine grits to achieve a flat, smooth result. Edge work was completed with a detail sander and hand tools in tight corners.
6. Lacquering: Three coats of a hard gloss lacquer were applied, with light sanding between coats. A stain was applied before the final coat to give the oak a richer, warmer tone that the client preferred over the natural pale colour of the raw wood.

The Result

The finished floor looked exactly like a traditional parquet installation. The pattern was sharp, the surface smooth, and the stained lacquer gave the oak a warm, amber depth that complemented the period feel of the room. The client was genuinely surprised at how authentic it looked compared to the raw panels they had seen before fitting. This is a floor that will hold up well in a family home and, being solid oak at the surface, can be re-sanded and refinished in the future should it ever need attention.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is mosaic oak parquet and how does it differ from traditional parquet?

Mosaic parquet uses small oak finger blocks pre-assembled on a backing panel. Traditional parquet involves each block being laid individually. The visual result is essentially the same. Mosaic panels install faster and at lower labour cost, making the classic parquet look accessible at a more reasonable price point.

Can mosaic oak parquet be sanded and refinished like a standard parquet floor?

Yes. Once the backing has been removed and the floor is sanded and finished, it behaves exactly like any other solid wood parquet floor. It can be re-sanded and refinished multiple times over its lifespan.

What finish works best on mosaic oak parquet?

Lacquer is the most popular choice because it is hard-wearing and easy to clean. If you prefer a more natural look, a hardwax oil is a good alternative, though it requires more frequent maintenance. Staining before the final coat allows the colour of the floor to be adjusted to suit your interior.

Project Overview

This engineered wood flooring installation was completed at a flat in Greenwich, South East London. The client had recently purchased the property and wanted to replace the existing old carpet throughout the open-plan living and kitchen area with a real wood floor. Engineered wood was chosen for several practical reasons: the flat was on the ground floor with a concrete subfloor, some areas were below the damp-proof course level, and the client had underfloor heating in the kitchen zone. Engineered wood handles all of these conditions better than solid wood. For a professional supply and fit, clients typically pay between £35 and £60 per square metre.

The Challenge

The concrete subfloor had two complications. First, moisture readings taken with a damp meter showed levels that were slightly above the threshold for direct fitting, so additional damp-proof measures were required before any boards could go down. Second, the floor was not level. There was a gradual slope of about eight millimetres across the room that would have been noticeable once the boards were laid and could have caused joint stress over time. Levelling a concrete floor to the tolerances required for a floating engineered floor is not a quick job, but it is essential for a lasting result.

Our Approach

1. Carpet removal: The existing carpet and underlay were lifted and removed, along with any gripper rods and tack strips.
2. Moisture control: A two-part epoxy damp-proof membrane was applied directly to the concrete and allowed to cure fully. This creates a reliable moisture barrier that will protect the engineered boards for the life of the floor.
3. Levelling: A self-levelling compound was poured across the concrete and spread to bring the floor within two millimetres of level over the two-metre span specified in the engineered floor manufacturer's fitting guidelines. The compound was allowed to cure for 24 hours before any further work proceeded.
4. Acclimatisation: The engineered boards were laid flat in the room for 48 hours to adjust to the room's humidity and temperature before fitting.
5. Underlay: A suitable underlay compatible with the underfloor heating was laid across the concrete. The thermal resistance rating was kept within the limits specified for the heating system.
6. Board installation: The boards were installed using a floating click system in a staggered pattern. Expansion gaps were maintained around the perimeter and at any fixed objects such as pipe runs and island units.
7. Finishing: Matching skirting was fitted to cover the expansion gaps, and colour-matched threshold strips were installed at the kitchen entrance and doorways.

The Result

The finished floor completely transformed the flat. The open-plan space now had a consistent, warm floor surface running from the entrance hallway through the living area and into the kitchen. The boards were clean and level, the joints tight, and the colour, a natural brushed oak, worked well with the client's furniture. The floor also performed well with the underfloor heating, warming up evenly without any creaking or movement at the joints. This is a floor that, properly maintained, should give 25 to 30 years of good service.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why is levelling the subfloor so important before fitting engineered wood?

Engineered boards are rigid, and if they span an uneven subfloor, the joints take the strain. Over time, this can cause the click joints to crack or the boards to develop a slight rocking motion underfoot. Most manufacturers specify a maximum of two millimetres deviation over two metres for their floating floor products.

Is a damp-proof membrane always needed under engineered wood on concrete?

It depends on the moisture readings in the concrete. If readings are within acceptable limits, a standard underlay with an integrated moisture barrier is often sufficient. If moisture levels are elevated, a dedicated epoxy or sheet membrane is necessary. We always test moisture levels before recommending a course of action.

How do you handle expansion gaps around kitchen islands and fixed objects?

The standard approach is to maintain the required expansion gap around all fixed objects and cover it with a suitable trim or threshold strip. In some kitchen installations, the island units are sited on top of the finished floor rather than fixed to the subfloor, which removes the need for a gap around them entirely.